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Show SURF RIDING IS ROYAL SPORT. How the Honolulans Toboggan for Half a Mile on One Wave. At Walklkl. near Honolulu, Is a famous bathing beach. Here, winter and summer, the surf canoes, or better bet-ter )et, the surf boards, come dancing In onthe long Killers and men become amphibious. There Is no sensation quite com parable, ajs tho Travel Magazine, to riding a surf boaul on n Pacific roller It Is tobogganing on a mining hillside of wntcr, or If )ou aio clover enough to stand up on our board. It Is taking this hillside on a slngjo big ski. The beach runs fat out before It shelves Into deep water, and at high tldo the h eakers begin to mount almost al-most half a mile fiom tho shore line You go out theio with )our surf boaid and wait for the wae You lcatn to catch It nttho right moment, throw jour board Inshoio and climb upon It Jiibt as tho crest of tho roller mounts and catches jou Then on this crest you sail In toward the shorn, to slide down at last when tho wave breaks, down the foaming Incline In-cline Into shallow water and (burning foam. It Is royal Bport. |