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Show To Be Seen at Fashion Shows Clad In high choker collars of fur and wrapped about with heavy, cold-defying cold-defying wraps, writes n Now York fashion correspondent, tho models all over town nro trlpblng tho platforms of tho fashion shows. These parties nro for the retail buyers only, but as they think, so shnll the country drebS, and It Is of no llttlo Interest to take noto of tho tilings to which tho buyers glvo their sanction. Sometimes ono wonders why they do It. One can seo tho woman looking for somothtng she thinks Is beautiful, being shown only what tho buyer thought was beautiful, dismayed by tho thing that confronto nor, yet driven to buying and wearing It Borne of tho gowns being shown nre good, but all of them do not keep up to the highest stnndnrd. It leads In tho direction of ornnto decoration, aud they uro apt to be very bad. Tho buyers tell you and they should know that women nro asking for all this ovorsupply of decoration. Perhaps they nre. Fortunately the genernl lines of tho Bllhouctto aro straight nnd short nnd simple. In other words, they are very good and susceptible of Infinite variations. varia-tions. Long waists predominate, and when thiy aro not long then they are very, very short, giving an extremely FVjTstsbTsbV. ahVH.BhhhWA - ;wf sHhhBhsI B '"'Hi HBsBarW sIbBbbbbbIDBSIb SSlWslWslWslWslBlBlBlSSinHSBV sBBBBBBBbVBsBBa sBBBBbH. sBBsBBBV BPsbHssESs BBBMBBl Hand Embroidered Three-Piece Peach. bloom Suit youthful look to tho frocks which show them. Thcro nro no protuberances at tho hip lines. Things nre uncompromisingly uncompro-misingly straight. Soma of the skirts, short though they be, tend to hold in about tho legs, but most of them nre straight nnd qu'to scant of material straight and short and tight. That Is the slogan thnt Is supposed to govern gov-ern tho skirts of this coming season, n( least for the fall months. The development de-velopment of winter will ho something else something that develops as the days go on and In the wake of the Purls models which will nrrlve later, Sleeves Are Lonaer, Sleeves In most of the new gowns hne n tendency to fall from their recently established high-water mnrk, They touch tho elbows, they drop below be-low that point to n place midway distant dis-tant between tho wrist nnd elbow nml sometimes they reach the band In u tight-fitting manner. Some or tin Bleeves nre quite full nnd floppy, prow. Ing out of a kimono nrmhoie. There nro confined at tho wrists with tightly fitting cuffs, which aro also very narrow nar-row mid which hug tho wrists. Wo aro accounted n slender nation ns far as our women nro concerned, but really thcro Is a growing demand for "stylish stouts." Most of tho model gowns, howovor, mo inndo originally for stylish thins aud tho consideration of breadth enters In secondnrlly and as au afterthought. It Is Interesting to seo tho new suits, which have coats that nro much longer tlinn any which have been shown during dur-ing the past two seasons. Theso coats reach tho knees or extend below them and, because of the extreme shortness of the skirts, thoro Is very llttlo of tho latter left to show. Most of theso conts are extremely plain In line, nnd tho belts nro low. And, with our clever American tailors to do the work, tho slza of tho figure In ono wny or another an-other seems to mnko no difference They can achlovo that up irnd down straight line, It seems, no matter how curved their foundation material may be. They are really artists In this way. Fur Is being used for trimming on many of tho suits nnd gowns, but from a cursory view of tho models which hnvo already been shown It would seem as though this material would be used In less qunntlty than over before. The collnrs, to bo sure, nro broad and wrapping In many Instances, but tho fur trimmings as bandings nnd collars col-lars for dresses nnd cuffs and vnrlous other bits of garniture nre, ns a rule, nnrrow and tightly fitting, though they aro applied with considerable perk!-ness. perk!-ness. Some of tho cuffs on dresses nro long nnd flopping nbout tho wrists, but they nre made on scantcr lines all tho way round than have been tho fur cuffs of former sensons. Many of tho dresses nro mndo of the various forms of duvetyn which Is upon the market now in such fascinating fascinat-ing similes. They nro mora often tlinn not of the chemise type, and there nre many variations to this theme. You wonder how thero could bo such n dlffercnco of design on models which l.no for their foundation the samo simple Idea of ono straight lino from shoulder to hem. Ilut ench of them bns a fresh noto nil Its own, proving the cleverness of our own American de signers. Scrgo Is always good for tho fall and winter, nnd some of the now bluo serge frocks nre prettier than those of former years. On this material embroidery em-broidery shows to excellent ndvnntnge. Indeed, It seems to require a bit of colored col-ored embroidery put on In tho right spots to mnko It most Interesting. Mnny aro the variations of embroidered motifs which adorn tho blue serges, and It looks as though this type of frock would continue popular, Whllo duvetyn Is smarter Just now fur separate sep-arate dresses, they say that, In Paris, serge of tho finer and softer weave Is likely to be ns smnrt or smarter. Tho hacks of the new dresses are where tho novelty Is centered, nnd, ns tho models turn nnd twist to show every Inst detnll of tho frocks they aro wearing, newer nnd moro wonderful wonder-ful buck arrangements aro disclosed to the fnsflnnted gaze of tho onlookers. It Is not thnt the backs nro so elnh-irate, elnh-irate, but thnt they aro different, Thero nre Interesting little panels distributed dis-tributed nbout, thero are embroideries thero Instead of In front, thero nre odd little belts nnd buttons nttnehed In new mid Interesting rown. The fullness, full-ness, too, Is nrrnnged differently. Collnrs nre high In mnny imos. They tuck right under tho chins nnd there they flare nwuy In nil outstanding shelf arrangement. And then rficiillmcn there Is a Jaunty little necktie tied under them with nn artist's Windsor how at the front. |
