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Show Paris Has So Ordered, and of Course American Women Will Obey. PETTICOAT A DEAD LETTER Unless of the Thinnest Material, It Will Not Be Worn Outside Blouse Grows in Popularity Plbbon to Be Used as a Substitute for Embroidery. New York. Kvery cable brings from Purls the news thai the skirts of 11117 will be narrow. All those in the watch towers hnve proclaimed tit coming of this enemy to full skirls since lust September, Sep-tember, but only In limited segments of society was the news acletl upon. The manufacturers htul the niaterlnl for full skirts, the wholesale houses turned them out by the thousands, ami it was only left to the exclusive women and their dressmakers to cut dowu the width and lengthen thehem. Even now there are skirts that ure slightly gathered to the waistline, and these lire coming from some of the best houses In Purls, but they are dropped over a lower skirt that it: quite narrow. No mutter what the fullness, every skirt clings to the figure, fig-ure, as It did in the end of the eighteenth eight-eenth century. Pettlconts ore dead, unless they are of chiffon, crepe de chine or Jersey silk. The question which will soon confront con-front every woman Is whether she wishes to change the silhouette of her skirt or go on wearing It until It Is ready to be discarded. One cheerful feature of the return to the slim silhouette sil-houette Is that a full skirt cuu be cut into a nurrow one with ease. The Outside Blouse. That garment known as the outside blouse, which Is merely a short, twelfth century chemise, has grown quite important and popular since the large shops copied the exclusive French models und placed them within with-in the reach of the average purse. The new ones started at $S5; you can now buy them for $5 or $10 ln those shops where vast quantities of garments gar-ments are sold. They still remain at $:10 In the shops that nre neither departmental de-partmental nor exclusive. Women like them. They are more becoming than the white shlrtwulst n ml they do not make demands on one's purse for laundry- They have ti thin lining of their own, which is n boon to the womnn who has neither the time nor the money to arrange a vast variety of expensive underwear which shows through a thin white blouse. Skirts of Other Materials. These outside blouses are worn with skirts that ure not of their material or color, so this makes for economy ;im! comfort at once. So fur, they are in chlfl'on embroidered in silk lloss or bullion thread, but there are some very smart ones coming in colored satins. The sleeve is half length or long, but the hitter should be chosen for every occasion except one's own dinner table. The neck Is cut in the Renaissance fashion; ln fuct, the extraordinary high collar, standing or turned over, has given way to the Hat, twelfth century cen-tury uecUllne. This Is cut In many ways. The dressmakers do not Ici'l one down to the verltuble Renaissance. Jenny has taken up the Italiuu decolletage for the daytime, which is cut in the form of a deltu. A new gown which she sends over, which Wal copied from a Rembrandt portrait and which is of black panne velvet with girdle and arm pieces of black satin, has no ornamentation or-namentation at the neckline. The velvet vel-vet is cut to the base of the neck at the back, then out on each side to the armpits ami goes ln a straight line ucross the chest below the collarbone. It may be safely said that the thousands thou-sands who are continuing to wear the neck arrangement of the lust three years because it Is becoming ami comfortable, com-fortable, ure not In fashion. The vast Industries In this country connected with the munufucturing of neckwear will surely Bet up a howl of protest If this new style of the collurless neck makes strong headway. Ribbon Instead of Embroidery. There Is a nimor that France and America ln combination will present ribbons as u substitute for embroidery. embroid-ery. It Is possible that America Is the father to this thought. The manufacturers manufac-turers ln this country have ardently wished for definite fashions from Purls that would feature miles of ribbon used lu any way possible to cover the surface of clothes. The demand for ribbon has been worked trp In Purls to some extent through American exporters export-ers who represented factories that could turn out ribbon ln this country, but so far all uttetnpts have fulled to produce a reiil cull for this kind of ornamentation. or-namentation. A minor fashion which hus come Into being und which culls for embroidery is the ornamented glove. A few women wom-en have been foolish enough to weur banil-palnleil ones recently lit afternoon after-noon utfulrs, but there will always be women foolish enough to do anything. Tho glove which Is embroidered lu u simple way will be at the height of style, because America hus learned how to do it with the muchlnc, Instead of by hand. (Copyright, 1916, by the MoClure Newspaper Newspa-per syndlcute.) |