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Show . i t 'v : : Woman's World. cZZZt. ! Specially Prepared for Our Feminine Headers HAIB, COMB AND BRUSH. I Kmc Valentine, Parisian Expert, " on "Woman's Crowning Glory. (San Francisco Examiner.) . j It seems trite to call a woman's hair f lier crowning glory, yet the expression i Is none the less true. ) The most beautiful fac-e in the world will .suffer if the hair, which should I be like a background to a picture, is i not luxuriant and harmonious. Imag- i ine any head you know shorn of its Jocks, and you will readily acknowledge i that one of its chief beauties is gone, f In fact. I believe it is not too much lo say that many a woman has ac- j . quired a reputation for good looks on ! the strength of her hair alone. Its ' color, for instance, may (enhance or ' disagree with the tints of the skin. Its arrangement may utterly destroy j or notably add to the perfection of the coniour. It is true that in these days of high art and expert coiffures experience and ; taste may go far toward supplying the deficiencies that nature has left lacking, lack-ing, but there is always a hint, impossible im-possible to conceal, of the artifice em- . lloyed. ' There are dyes and wigs for every head, but better than either is the natural growth, stimulated by health - : and the proper care. Brushing, comb ing, washing and air are all important, , but most important of all is health. The color and texture of the hair are far more dependent upon the general i health than most people realize. Here again I must insist upon the f principle wnicn is me very lounua.- i tion of all beauty ,and that is a proper , intention to the hygienic rules of life. Cwmetimeg a client will say to me: i "Just look at my head! I used to have really pretty hair, but lately it has lost ' its gloss, it is lifeless and sticks flat against the scalp. I cannot dress it decently." If I answer: "Madame, your liver is probably out of order." my fair patient would laugh and say: : "What has that to do with my hair, I'd like to know?" But it has a great deal to do with the hair. Greasy food, improper action of the digestive organs, sluggish liver, . poor blood, a sallow complexion, all ' ' fpell ugly hair. Invariably disorders of the blood, from whatever cause, result ; in affecting the hair, i It is to be understood, then, that the 'I counsels which I am to give with re- , pard to the hair are to be applied to the ; head of a person who enjoys fair gen- i cral health, the bad condition of the f hair being due entirely to some disorder of the scalp. i Hair following the ordinary scale of growth should increase in length at j the rate of about one-third of an inch , a month, a little more rather than less. ' Xow, not one woman's hair in a hun- ! dred grows at that rate. This is simply because she does not take proper tare of her scalp. I am willing to guaran- j tee that a faithful following out of the system which I recommend to my i clients will result at the end of a year ; ; in a splendid, thick head of hair, i Do not wash your hair more than twice a year. Xov, of course, after all I had said about cleanliness this statement state-ment seems inconsistent, but it is not. j I do not say not to clean your head. ; "What I say is, in effect, to keep it out j of the water as much as possible. If your head has been exposed to an unusual amount of dust and you have ; perspired heavily so that you really feel very uncomfortable and will in-1 in-1 sist upon washing your hair, do so in j tepid, water. Never put very cold water fn the head: it causes rheumatism of the scalp. Add to the tepid water a I decoction of Panama bark, or, better still, the yolks of eggs, u hen using the latter beat up the yolks and pour them pure upon the head. Do not mix them with the water. Hub them thoroughly thor-oughly into the scalp and hair, and ' then rinse in successive waters, to which a pinch of refined borax has been '. . , added, until every vestige of stickiness has disappeared. Use always either I i rain water or water that has been boiled, and when the scalp is thor-1 thor-1 oughly cleansed, dry with warm tow- els. 1 Camomile water, mixed in equal pro- f portions with the Panama water, is ! ' also excellent for washing the hair, hut this should Mot be used by blondes. Fair hair is much more delicate than dark ,and the slightest thing that is wrong will alter its color. To cleanse the head without wash ing it use once a week or oftener a wad i of soft muslin thoroughly soaked in i pure cologne. Rub the cologne upon the roots of the hair near the skin of the head, carefully parting the hair in order to get well at the scalp. By this means, that is to say, cleansing cleans-ing the scalp with cologne, the skin of the head can be kept perfectly clean. This, however, does not suffice to clean the hair, particularly if it be of any , length.- For this a brush with long i bristles should be used, and the hair ; brushed for fifteen minutes night and ! morninr. The bristles of the brush : should be long enough to penetrate the hair and touch the scalp on every portion por-tion of the head. When combing the hair only the coarsest toothed comb should be used. Never use a fine comb. It scratches the scalp and splits the hair. Always if combing the hair separate it into a many strands as possible and use a brush xreferably to disentangle it. ; When you retire for the night, how- ! ever becoming it may be, do not per- j ' ' mit your hair to float upon the pillows. You will rind it much more beneficial i to braid it into a dozen or more little ! '. braids, which will also make the dis entangling process in the morning r I i much !es difficult. i j So niucn a woman may do for her- ' ! i ! self toward preserving her hair and ' j inducing its growth. Hut for scientific , culture of the hair, when for some ; cause or other it has fallen out, the advice of some experienced person ' ' ; should be sought. However, there are ' . ome simple remedies that one may try for oneself. Regular applications of rum and castor cas-tor will shoot out and become com-pact, com-pact, gaining in thickness and length I """ almost visibly from day 10 day. It is a good plan for the general welfare wel-fare of the hair to allow it to hang loose as much as possible, particularly in the open air. Plenty of sunshine ; upon even the darkest hair will give it a golden glint. But the hair must be perfectly dry when thus exposed. Personally, as far as the color of the hair is concerned, I prefer a golden blonde. Nearly all the greatest beauties beau-ties of modern and ancient times have been blondes, and certainly it is the ! fair-haired woman who has most fre quently inspired the great masters of poetry and painting, i Nothing gives luster to the hair ! like brushing and massage. While V brushing clears away the dust and ' thus removes the outward artificial ; coating which would hide the natural ! gloss of the hair, massage of the scalp I stimulates the action of the blood ves- I sels at the roots of the hair and gives - add-d vigor to the capillary substance 3 " .' itself. ; j Hair which curls naturally is very I ; attractive always, but straight hair, j if it be soft and supple, is not without f is charm. Some women, however, i j ' refuse to realize this and prefer to I ! j risk ruining their hair altogether by i ! : furling it artificially when it refuses to j l form a wave of its own acco-d. N'o process of curling can be nvom- mnded as good for the hair. Curling j ' '. . v 1th hot irons is Very bad. But the j lt harmless method Is to dampen it -vt slightly with cologne water and wind it about "kids" or twist it up in curl papers. When doing this be careful not to pull upon the hair to such ah extent as to be painful, and never, oh. never, do it up ho tight as to crimp it. Hair as straight as straw is preferable to the head which has the appearance of being be-ing cove.ed with the stuffiing of a hair mattress. If your hair comes out of curl very easily a good means to reserve its wave is to moisten it w.th a p.eparation composed of: Gum Arabic 100 grams Rose water 400 grams I have frequently been asked as to the best way to keep the brush and comb clean. For the comb I can only recommend the use of plenty of white castile soap and tepid water rubbed on with a good nail brush. The brush should be treated at least ence a week to a bath of tepid water softened with ordinary washing soda, and then placed in the sun with bristles down to dry. Another good wash is made with a few drops of ammonia, the suds of white castile soap, and tepid water. Then lay the brush 'with bristles downward in the sunniest spot you can find, so that it will dry quickly. Of j course, never put your brush away I wet, and it would be advisable to give it daily air baths. Once a month the ends of the hairs of every length should be clipped. They should not be cut off to anap-preciable anap-preciable length, merely the, very points should be clipped. The new hair will gain strength and grow with astonishing as-tonishing rapidity. Little by little the same thing which takes place upon a well-trimmed hedge or tree will be seen to occur in the hair. MARRIAGE CUSTOMS. Twentieth Century Kites All Borrowed Bor-rowed From Antiquity. How little the bride of today realizes that all of the wedding customs of the present are rooted in the pagan past. The barbaric bridegroom procured his mate by one of two methods capture or chase. We speak always now of "capturing" a bride, and "purchase" is not wholly unknown. In the former the groom started upon the warpath with some chosen companion; whence cometh the custom of having a "best man." The dainty gold ring of today is a relic of the fetter by which the bride was bound, while the jocose slipper is a remnant of the missiles hurled by the angry parents. , The orange blossoms came in a more cilivilzed age, though not Christian, and augured great fertility for the woman. wo-man. The veil, as still in modern Oriental countries, typifies exclusive possession by one man. Even the honeymoon is but the symbol sym-bol of the interval which elapsed before be-fore the victor brought his bride from hiding, and sought peace with her wrathful kinsmen. Elopements are the evolution of the running away, in which an intermediate step is seen in the pretense at capture still in vogue among Irish mountaineers. In Cardiganshire, Wales, a wedding is very tame unless the bridegroom captures the bride after a thrilling pseudo-skirmish. The relatives offer meek resistance, and much scuffling and horseplay ensue. A dialogue in verse old ballad style being finished, the bridegroom is admitted and seeks the bride, who is disguised as an old woman, often with a male infant in her arms, the sy mbol of sons and heirs. At the church the bride is snatched by her relatives, and the bridegroom's party pursue on horseback. At last she is tossed back, and whoever receives re-ceives her will be wed within one year. (S milar to our throwing of the bride's bouquet.) What Not to Wear. .White petuco.as on muddy days. Cheap jewelry any time. Bright red with florid complexion. Conspicuous bicycle costumes. A broad belt on a stout figure. A plain basque on a slim figure. Cheap trimmings on a good dress. Cheap lace on anything. Diamonds in the daytime. Linen collars with dressy frocks. Picture hats with outing costumes. Theatre bonnets with street suits. Soiled white gloves on a shopping expedition, or any time. Worn shoes with an elaborate toilet. A linen collar that is not immaculately immacu-lately fresh. Dotted veils with weak eys. Gloves with holes in or boots with i buttons missing. Hair dressed high with a snub nose. Hair in a Psyche knot with a Roman nosu. Pointed shoes when bicycling. Gaudy colors in cheap materials. The new light sleeve on a long, thin arm. Tan shoes in midwinter. A long, draggled skirt cm a rainy day. Lace frills or chiffons ruch'es for work or school. White For Thin Women. A well-known portrait painter advises ad-vises women when posing for a photograph pho-tograph to wear black at the neck, as it gives a fuller effect and in the case of a very slender sitter greatly enhance en-hance the beauty of the hat. The same artist advises thin women to wear white as much as possible, as it makes their slenderness less apparent. ap-parent. He says the reason why some women appear to bloom out in summer time from comparative insignificance, is because so many white fabrics, such as starched muslins, piques and the like, are worn. |