| Show n. mor-n. Co Copyright I IC by Am n m nor G. G Great r lIb M W mJ S uv t H U M r j a I e e x fewest 8 r. r 1 gh r t r J r l s t. t r K I rv I r M i t tI 1 f It I li j 1 t r 1 I II III I I I 2 0 j j 5 rt I f y yr 44 i I r 4 4 t i S t t S r S I t I It ri t Y Yn J Jf f 1 Y l J t I P. P J f ft I d' d dL a ar s iI t L' L f r t 1 I I i r 1 w a r rr rP x 7 j hd I I o I r j i. i I I I r v I I h qt d. d F I I I k I II I Is s a lY r s r I I I II I I L. L ilu w. w l S l r jI I i j. j rt I nl Here You See at a Glance the Figure with the Tightly Clinging Cling Cling- L ing Scabbard or So-c So called So-called Sheath Effect of the Pi Present Mode and in In Violent Contrast to It Clearly It-Clearly Clearly J 1 Shown in Outline Against It What It What the Next Newest Figure Promises to be with the Coming Again of Full Fun FullI I t Skirts and Broad Accentuated Hips By Madame Jane an any one on prepared to say Bay just whoa when Ir 1 I the season begins Given men a aday aday day a or so 80 of or sunshine with the grass grassIn ad ed adventurous In to the park showing a Q tender and venturous green Cn the sparrows sparrow's twittering I. I busl busily in the paths patho U it it seems Impossible e thero should bo be any more Winter SO so a n afew u fow few courageous souls eoula venture venturo forth In Int t now flower r hats which after all s seem m a 0 little littler r c Incongruous with Ion long fur coats and hugo muffs huffs Why would it not bo better to tot t name a da day as the men do with their hs h's t straw hats hau when hen all 1 could appear ear In la a 0 as s r dazzling procession a veritable flower L I r parade arade and Spring could bo ushered toi In to i with ith some come sort of ot unanimity Aa As it la Es the tho change is so 80 gradual aa ae acv r v to bo bl almost and the majority majority mat ma ma- t of or women are mado made to feel un- un b by the tow few who cannot retrain re refrain rea re- re a train frain from plucking the early lowers flowers t t I which bleh bloom on advance models av al although at a- v- v vt though there thero Is is nothing In tho rest reat of I their costume which harmonizes The old fashion tuMon of ot waiting until Easter has hu long pass passed away for Easter Is too 1 movable a feast to be very cry satisfactory s ss s a I. I launching day particularly when as L late Lite tl as this year So by tho eleventh ele of April tho the Winter walking costume will have gradually given n I way to tho the one ono of lighter weight the difference In cut probably probably ably being BO so slight aUght as 1 to mako make the tho transition almost unmarked Those who have hn clu clung G to their short skirts through th the fad tad for trailing draperies drap- drap erlea eries so 60 uncomfortable for tor walking and ami BO so un ungracefully held up except in n cs will be gratified d to learn that tho the short skirt h has come into Its own 1 again aIn even cven French women r realizing the practical value of ot skirts cut a la Is Amen Amerl- calno c In which h to make th lr footing rooting Another noticeable ble change charge T will J be Inthe in inthe inthe the increasing amplitude of ot skirts and while i hll It la Is an o open n secret in Paris Parle that Autumn will see litO us swathed In skirts measuring eight yards around tho bot bot- tom I think Spring gowns goS can bo bf safely ly fashioned on on n Winters Winter's lines with some additional room for ones one's extremities It always requires re several c months to bring in a a. n new w fashion with any ony kind of or certainty but It seems safe to predict tho the downfall of ot the fashion before be be- foro fore long According to recent cent letters tho the past s season son has hos been so so- disastrous not only to dressmakers In to Paris Parts because many clever women found that b by order order- In log ing one ono or two gowns they thoy could with a ere trI z copy tho ha Simple Im e lIn j nt ift r am ii but to Co to dc d' i lera alo tho the dainty frou frou lingerie lIn-e-l has bee bey beef f entirely discarded and to manufacturers of t dress dream materials since th the narrow straight ht skirt required EO so much teAS less material material ma ma- than Co formerly So all havo banded to together In a n mighty ml crusade and nd to tomake tomako tomako mako make their disapproval 1 more mort pronounced o will go so to the thc utmost extreme In advocating advocat at- at ing the tho Louis Louie XV gown frown In which the thelong thelong long tong straight lIn lines o I way v to curves curries waists are aro not only to lengthen but hut to be smaller and hip m measurements are to increase Breadth Instead of or attenuation at Qt- within v reasonable limits will II challenge o our admiration This threatened voluminous dr drapery pery rounds extremely mely appalling after the tho comfort and U lightness which we have haven lately n enjoyed for except when carried curried to th the tho extreme where either slUing sitting or walking h nan has fI bc been n a burden no one will deny that tho narrow skirt Is comfortable comfort- comfort able There is 18 an Increasing ten tendency ency to elaborate elaborate eab orate e the cut of ot coats although rh th the semi-fitting semi emt- emt stylo style will r remain let tet us hope for man many moons The coat COt of at the tre ordinary ordinary or or- walking ln cult is 18 no longer an ordinary cut on an mannish lines with either a n shawl or notched collar but bot has hu hass s qs many mani variations as it is b possible to think of It 1 is usually longer In tho the back sometimes sloping sharply from two or 01 three buttons at tho the waist It to n a point In tho the back bacle or cut square across the back bace breadth In a n panel effect the sides being two to or three o inches and the front pieces shorter still stilt Revere are an aner ever er popular effect and appear in all sorts sorta of ot unexpected places places- In th the back bock where they tut toward the tho centre centro from the slashed clashed silo I seam am or atthe nt at the bottom of ot the fronts which aro are often turned back ck and faced d either cither with tho the cloth of ot satin which of ot course courle repeats the facing of ot tho the collar and revers rovers over o uti A 4 f 7 k Ivy k B the bust One little model In fn palm green Ireen serge sers has no revers except In iii Ih hack where two to long narrow ones faced with black satin extend from the he hips b b n. n ning narrowly and widening toward tho bottom Black satin Is folded about the neck neek slipped l under two embroidered buckles and h hangs n s in soft scarf ecart ends cads below belm tho the waist This coat coot Is to be worn over rv a one one- piece picco dress dres of or the serge since the coat cont and skirt are entirely out of the fashionable ble blo question quest Tho The fronts of oC tills this dress drea arc nrc simply ly draped in fashion a bit of ot embroidery filling the pointed point ed cd d space the skirt shows a m moderate moderate erate er- er ate A little variety In tho the cut of outer oute garments will wilt bo bu a n welcome chango from the uniformity of or cut so prevalent pro this Inter Hinter To view a no crowd of well dressed women one ono would think they had hod nIlen nil nit been en turned out of ot tho same samo mould so nUke alike are arc they thoy In to cut and general make maize r ill U Have flaue Bouffant aid 8 a pa Yards of T a rial Ue peet up nn and 1 the preponderance o of or black was 4 never nover moro more striking It seems seams rather a pity to MO see so 80 many very young girls Inthis In Inthis this sombre hue huo from top to too toe very vary often otten without a speck peck of ot white to lighten n tho the gloom To my way r.-ny n of or thinking ayoung a n ayoung young roun girl whom I t saw at tho the Plaza Pl clad clod In white short whito serge earlo skirt m medium length coat and white fox tox fur toque muff and collar r. was waa 2115 a a. much moro attractive picture To p persist In wearing something which Is nor no no In n the extreme moo mode do does docs a 1 certain amount of or courage c but tho becoming quality I must repeat ro at la Is of at BO eo much more Importance 1 saw a particularly shining example of ot this state slate of ot affairs at nt Sherry's tho the other tiny day and really felt Celt happier after BUer gazing gazIn gaz gaz- In ing upon a perfect ensemble A particularly partIcularly par par- tall tAn slender willowy woman with that brunette whiteness of or skin and black ha hair Jr wore n a costume which bore bora that unmistakably mussy look which French clothes cloth 8 have havo after aCtor a n sea voyage What could bo be seen seon of ot tho town gown own was a very dull duB grayish bronzo bronze velvet almost as thin and fine as chiffon chiffon fon the skirt fairly full though clinging softly around the tho feet teet Over this sho wore n 1 coat not quite three quarters In length of ot dyed ded a Q lovely soft rose Around the th neck was a n scarf rt of ot rose velvet volx-ot caught In front with two embroidered motifs tho the some same trimming trim trim- ming re repeated on tho the sleeves Her hat o Q drooping turban n was of ot tho the grayish bronzo velvet with a huch hush pompon of ot r rose roso o ostrich feathers on one ono side Id IdIn In the first sketch to-day to you ou will see seethe ee tho the new silhouette t s which we are aro threatened next Fall showing tho long Ions pointed waist and largo bouffant of ot Louis XV time Of Ot course this 13 la laan an exaggeration and md only shows to what extreme extremo any ony stylo style may go o. o A Shows the present fashionable figure contrasted with the new figure which advance fashion hints promise will be In vogue by Autumn B and BB Satin faced cloth In taupe color opened In front In a long longpoint longpoint longpoint point of the same material point out outS outlined lined with broken rows of buttons buttons- An Inverted point Is outlined on the front of the skirt with braid and braid Is on the bodice and sleeve which are In one of silver sliver veiled with taupe fon To wear with this gown Is the thelong thelong thelong long coat handsomely braided In the tho same in points point C Afternoon costume In dechine de dechine dechine chine In ashes of violet Skirt Is draped showing Increased around the bottom while the tt long lines of the tunic show the medieval Influence Elaborate embroidery mixed with gold thread entirely covers panels and front of bodice D This trotting p Aln p wn M f f i rl blue serge shows an extremely odd arrangement arrangement ar of drapery which shows the train turned back and securely buttoned In place at the waist Rows Row of buttons trim the back continuing across the front of bodice aa as shown In following sketch E Front view of preceding sketch Odd little rolling roiling collar outlines the of blue net over gold and the sleeves are long and plain I 1 le y yi i SW n w. w j r. r r G r h I s t vs t ti 7 I i f ft t i- i i I J f d 4 1 I J S 'S 1 l f 1 M a r f |
