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Show QHjf jlalt fake eribunc Travel Sunday, Mav Section 6 ; T 5, 19b5 Page 1 -: by Anne Mathews Tribune Staff Writer or the ideal vacation, most of us imagine our- selves lolling under palm trees is one he will not attempt "I wouldn't do any river if I thought I could get killed You have to have a lot of confidence if you're going to do something difficult because there is no time for indecision The most important skills in kayaking are the ability to read the fanned by ocean breezes water and knowing your limits After several days of boating the Bryan Seeholzers idea of a good off waterby themselves, they met HolMaipo vacation is jetting freezing bek and three other Californians in falls in his kayak For his last vacaSantiago The group spent a week and tion, in January, he traveled to Chile to spend six weeks on raging white a half boating the Maipo, Yeso, and the Vulcan, all roughly in the same water area He first began planning the trip They established a base camp on five years ago when he read about the the outskirts of a tiny village called first kayakers to boat the Bio Bio (say El Volcan, (population 25) Their first BO- - BO) in central Chile He discussed the idea with Larry Dunn, a night, they feasted in a small tienda," on fresh goat and beer The kayaking friend and a meteorologist with the U S Weather Service On a proprietors baked fresh bread (Chileans eat bread rather than tortillas) boating trip to California two years for the occasion (The meal came to ago, they met Lars Holbek, author of a book on kayaking in California, w ho about $1 75 each ) They spent two days on the Vulcan, agreed to meet them to kayak some the most exciting river of the trip If of the rivers they had chosen is steep, dropping more than Seeholzer grew up in Logan but has 200really feet per mile for seven or eight lived the past few years in Salt Lake miles, Seeholzer said They had inCity with his wife A handsome man, tended to run the river in one day but with direct blue eyes and light brown were too exhausted to more than go hair, his most outstanding characterthree miles the first day "When it istic is his modesty He has none of gets difficult, it goes slower because the macho swagger to which his you have to scout the river If youre entitles him getting tired you take out earlier As w ell as being an expert kayaker, A young girl from El Volcan shuthe is also an expert skier, a former tled them to the put in points and dropped their car off at the "take outs " They never had any difficulty Left, Cuerno mountains in finding local people to shuttle them Torres del Paine national and said the Chileans were universalwith are slate, tipped park ly friendly and helpful gi ing striking appearance. After finishing the rivers near El Volcan, they parted company with the Californians who headed farther north to boat the Rio Aconcagua Dunn and Seeholzer headed south to Temuco, the fifth largest city in South America, some 420 miles south of Santiago, and the Rio Teno Camping by the river or in farmer's fields, they made day excursions in the kayaks There was never any problem with camping on private land, Seeholzer said "People down there are so friendly and hospitable. They were also curious about the kayaks Many of them invited us to stay in their homes Seeholzer said Chile is a clean country Even in a small village like El Volcan, residents had indoor plumbing "The campesinos country people always seemed to be sweeping the dirt It was the cleanest dirt you ever saw, he said The drinking water, however, was unreliable and they treated all water with purifying tablets except in large cities Chile is 2.700 miles long and, at its widest, 80 miles wide The Andes mountains run the length of the country They are especially high near r Seebol-zeAbove left, Bryan Santiago where they range from gazes at Grey Glacier; 17,000 to 20,000 feet The distance from end to end is roughly equivalent Larry Dunn peeks out from to that from the southern tip of Baja giant leaves on banks of to the Alaskan border Because of Rio Petrobue; peak of Chile's great length, it has a tremendel in Torres Grande Paine dously diverse geography and cliPaine massif; children mate ' It is the most interesting de in Plaza tbe country I ve ever seen, Seeholzer playing said Armas in Temuco. Left, The Chileans seemed to have realDunn hurtles down water ized the unique features of their on fall Petrobue; lovely homeland and m the early 1960s esChilean at Vina del Mar. tablished 47 national parks Temperatures during his stay ski racer with the University of Utah ranged from 60 degrees to the upper team He taught himself to kayak in 80s January in Chile being similar 1978 and has devoted himself to it to August in Salt Lake City Numersince ous wildflowers bloomed everyOn Jan 11, Seeholzer and Dunn where, Seeholzer said threw their kayaks and camping gear After the Rio Teno, they visited the in Seeholzers Toyota pickup and Rio Fuy (say tv.ee) for a 'waterfall drove to Los Angeles where they portage fest There were so many caught a direct flight to Santiago waterfalls, they had to portage Suzuki a rented They in boating parlance their carry drive and set forth for the upper kayaks most of the day "But it was Maipo, a Class IV river about 53 great fun It was a spectacular miles north of Santiago " place waters rate in difficulty Kayakers They drove south to Puerto Montt, from Class I to Class VI, a I being flat a city at the end of the Pan American water with small waves, a V being a highway, 650 miles south of Santiago, long, difficult stretch of white water and relaxed for a night in a hotel The with violent rapids, and a VI being a next morning, thj parked the Suzuki death wish Seeholzer said a Class VI involves substantial risk of death and See T-Col. 1 der-ring-- four-whe- photos by Bryan Seeholzer f ml Iff i mth U $ p4 f A i f - ' ' 4 s |
