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Show The Salt Lake Tribune Sunday Magazine February 12, 1984 S23 The wine scene ft w B fi I n thoughts on vine, wme ! r iv dme by Carole von Schmidt I ACCORDING TO the newspaper fashion, Womens Wear Daily, red wine is again in. No wonder, for red wines have taken a giant leap in their style appeal in the last few years. An elegance was sadly and badly lacking in early California attempts to make a soft, drinkable varietal without the need of a decade of aging. Some Americans i of still like the chewy Cabernet, or the inky Zinfandel, but the public, as a whole, expresses disinterest in such wine. This lack of interest showed when the wines didnt sell. The mile- stone of California red wines with a French style was promoted by such people as Tom Jordan of Jordan i Winery in the Alexander Valley, and by Robert Mondavi in the Napa Val-- 1 ley. Both explained their intent to Cabermake a soft, yet I net Sauvignon. They have. Now wineries are on this bandwagon. Try ! Trefethen, Deloach or Beringer for good drinkable wines from the mo--, ment of their release. Clos de Bois, Woodleaf, Cabernet Sauvignon, 1978, is a genuinely outstanding example of a superb wine which can be drunk immediately. The companionship of food and wine caused a discovery anew when ; I recently drank a 1970 and a 1971 La Tache from the Romanee Conti vineyards. These world class wines, served with a duck consomme and a rack of lamb, showed the art of max- v full-bodi- 1 1 I i imum friendship between good food and exceptional wine. The 1970 La Tache was round and ready to drink, a juicy Burgundy at its best; whereas, the 1971 was still slightly closed, especially in the fruit. The nose of these wines is, however, like a whiff of pure berry essence. Having tasted a 1972 La Tache about a week earlier, the experience proved memorable. This younger wine is, by comparison, still an adolescent. Another five years will produce desirable results, for vintage 1972 is listed as a year of unusually wines in the Burgundy region. When talking about wines from La Tache and this acclaimed vineyard, one always assumes and anticipates a special experience. deep-flavor- Chardonnay continues to be my favorite white varietal wine from California as well as from France. Experts say the California Chardonnay is their best product. The two countries are coming together in style. The 1981 Matanzas Creek Chardonnay from Sonoma is already an incredibly superior wine. Since it is showing complexity and grace, it can be enjoyed this young. Of course, it will also age, but its hard to comprehend how it could possibly improve. Another style of Chardonnay, that California rich, oaky and buttery presentation, is shown in the new bel. Klosterkeller Siegendork Imperial Sekt (sparkling wine in German), a reasonably priced bubbly, is now available at the Trolley Wine Store. This Austrian vineyard features clean wines, for sipping, as is the case with their Riesling, and for food, as is the case with their Sekt. This particular sparkling wine is good with smoked salmon or smoked or fresh trout, or with Brie with brown sugar and pecans. This latter dessert presentation involves blending 1 cube of unsalted butter with 3 cups of brown sugar, then spreading the mixture on top of the Brie. A Supreme triple cream cheese may be used as an alternative. Arrange pecan halves in a series of rows around the top of the cheese until the entire surface is THEME CROSSWORD By William ACROSS 1 Endorse 5 Floor mop 9 12 16 17 19 sauce Jacob s twin Jal - KM, e g. Superior: comp. wd. 20 Ah, me! 21 Crosby movie, 1941: 4wds. 24 25 26 27 28 29 Kinshasa's land out (make do) Mine production Louvers - Des Colonist 31 Deluxe 32 To apply cosmetics - to DOWN 33 Claret 34 Dangerous chance 35 Curls the hair 37 Portals 40 Song of 1937: 43 45 46 47 48 49 50 2 wds. NHL Shutout Painful Loathsome one Pavlova Synthetic rubber Highway: abbr. Song of 1952: 2 wds. 54 Police sweeps 55 Pablum:2wds. 62 63 65 67 70 Delhi Mr. Sharp-pointe- d Igloo, e.g. Jane and Nipsey In what place? 71 Movie of 1946: 2 wds. 73 Man in blue 74 Truncates 60 Inclines 61 and yang 75 ben Adhem 77 "Ten the Marines" 78 Preprandial reading 79 Madrid Mrs. 80 Song of 1956: 2 wds. 84 Wears: 2 wds. 85 Bead of dew 88 Quite old 20 Lifeless 51 58 Willow 59 Kind of hound Happy Birthday 22 Links units 1 "S Zahariasand Ruth 1 i 2 Indistinguishable 3 Omission sign 4 Set of tools 5 Crossed the plate 6 Candy disk i 1 i 7 n 8 Sound of disgust 9 Dixieland 10 Individuals , 11 Affirmative vote 12 Miss Stritch 13 Handy's golden oldie: 3 wds. . 14 Ranch unit 15 Hilo plunkers 18 Mr. Howard 19 The Last Frontier 23 Redden 28 Miss Callas 30 Deuce topper 31 Bluenose: colloq. 32 Annoyance 35 Estate residence 36 Weather device 37 Clothing 38 Proceedings 39 Operetta of 1915: 3 wds. 40 Moro knives . 41 Bestow kudos 42 Recompense 44 Kind of oven covered. Put the concoction under the broiler until the sugar is barely melted and crystallized, and the nuts are slightly toasted. Serve at once, with a sweet white bread or wheatmeal crackers. It is delicious, warm or cold. Barbaresco is an underexposed Italian wine, yet one of the best wines this country produces. A D.O.C. wine, the 1978 Riserva from Pio Cesare has perfect balance, making it marvelous to serve with Chevre cheese. Chev as the connoisseurs call it, was the 1983 big seller in the United States, for it surpassed even Brie in its popularity. Chevre is goat cheese; it is made in a mutlitude of styles, from mild or Boucheron to the heady Basque interpretation. Other foods to serve with this garnet, velvety wine are pates of all varieties, garlic sausage, smoked duck or venison paupiettes. With all this cold weather, Port is a perfect choice for a wine drink, for it warms the soul as well as the body. This rich, raisiny fortified wine from Portugal goes well with English Stilton cheese and walnuts, or with chocolate. As a dessert wine, it is unbeatable. For late evening sipping, it is satisfying. A vintage Port from the early 60s may be ready to drink now, but the Sande-ma- n Founders Reserve, is made to drink when re- Mon-trach- e, et leased. It is now available at the Trolley Wine Store. Look for an Italian wine called Gavi. Recently in a New York restaurant known for its superior Italian food and wine, a wine steward recommended it. It made the perfect lunch accompaniment with mussel soup, a white truffle salad and a white fish. It is light, yet flavorful, complex and complementary to delicate northern Italian food. Enophiles who study Italian wines feel it is one of the best whites available. From time to time the Trolley Wine Store has some Gavi from varying vintners. Drink more Champagne. With prices going down for sparkling wine, this option should not be overlooked. Hopefully, Tete, the wondera ful sparkling wine, should be available in Utah soon. Brett Clifford, Trolley Wine Store manager, has been having trouble convincing winery representatives that we in Utah know good wines and will appreciate this one. Now he may have succeeded. I tasted Tete and other sparkling a wines in the line on site at the specatcular winery last summer. Piper-Sonois on the must-vis- it list when you travel and wine taste in the Sonoma area. Its on the Old Redwood Highway north of Santa Rosa. Piper-Sonom- MOOD INDIGO Lutwiniak ) t release of the Long label. The 1981 vintage, at a pricey $24, is equally well made. Long Vineyard is the private venture of Zelma Long, skilled winemaker for Simi Vineyards in Mendocino. Her own property is Napa appellation. The second vintage to be released by Long needs much air if one drinks it now, for it initially hits the tongue hot, but it will age superbly because the balance is intact Long, who made winning Mondavi wines, then put Simi on the map with her skills. Now she can be proud of her remarkable expertise as shown under her own la- 52 Stage line 53 Cubs and Mets 54 Rooting cries 56 Ages 57 Kismet 59 Opera voice 62 Fatty 63 Hole punchers 64 Musical sound 65 Regarding 66. 108A Song of 1926: 2 wds. 67 Miss Moreno 68 Twixt K and P 69 Drew out 46 Steak choice: 72 Youngster: colloq. 75 More qualified comp. wd. 48 Musical Count 76 Oozed out 78 Yokefellow 89 90 91 92 96 98 99 100 101 102 105 106 107 However Made known Paddock youngster Fresh lease Singer Bette SenorCastrd Immunizing agents Enzyme suffix Linda Lavin role Song of 1941: 4 wds. Cantos" Delineate WW II Axis craft: comp. wd. See 66 Down Witnessed 108 109 110 Hoptimism! 111 Aristae 112 Feed the kitty 81 Lass 82 83 84 86 87 89 91 92 93 94 95 Plays voyeur MissBIy Chinese province Lube item Adorn (oneself) Basque toppers Now Rijeka Actress Ada Cart as Hades " count the , ways Atlas inserts Tennis's Nastase Turn over Cache 102 Whence COL data 96 97 98 99 103 Dr. J's league 104 Tax shelter Riper-Sonom- |
