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Show At a Ivisit rely pace Turkeys Aegean Coast displays ancient history text and photos by Katherine Janka THE TURKS HAVE an expression that capsulizes the essense of a Yavas, yavas leisure vacation: (translated, Slowly, slowly). At its most appropriate, this is uttered while sailing on clear Aegean waters toward a golden Turkish sunset, when the words roll lazily off the tongue as, Yah-vashs- A cruise in the Aegean, along Turkeys western coast, is an ex- perience in moving slowly from bay anchorages to city ports. Along the way, there is swimming, snorkel-inwind surfing, hiking among ancient ruins and shopping in busy bazaars. Chartered yacht service by Yesil Marmaris Travel Agency takes Aegean travelers in groups of up to 12 from four Turkish ports and the Greek island of Rhodes. The agensailing vessels cy's 12 range from 44 to 69 feet and include a crew of three (including cook), wind surfers, fishing equipment and, on the larger boats, water ski boats. Typical trips are a combination of sailing and power cruising. They can be arranged for any length of time and include stops at whatever ports the passengers desire. PERHAPS THE FIRST thing a new visitor to the Aegean notices is the remarkable color and clarity of the water. The hue is a true sapphire blue, without any hint of green. Beneath the surface are treasures of shells and fossils that make for unforgettable snorkeling expeditions. Although the area is not noted for excellent fishing, it is possible to reel in large groupers and numerous varieties of small g. two-mast- Katherine Janka lives in Park City. fish. From late May through October, the water temperatures are ideal for swimming. During excursions on shore, Turkeys history unfolds in a succession of port towns displaying the remains of early Persian, Roman, Greek and Turkish civilizations. The most extensive and famous of these is Ephesus, noted as one of the more prosperous and beautiful cities under ancient Roman rule. Located just inland from the harbor resort of Kusadasi and about 50 miles south of Izmir, Ephesus stands as an expanse of archways, columns and temple walls. Boasting a population of 200,000 in the second century A.D., the city deserves at least several hours of wandering along marble roads past the ruins of baths, market places, libraries, government buildings and a large stadium. Cruising south from Kusadasi, numerous sites of smaller Ionian towns are evident along the shore, with remains of monuments dating back to the fifth century B.C. Notable among these are Priene, Militos and Didyma, located within a few miles of one another and just a one day cruise from Ephesus: Standing among the columns at Didymas Temple of Apollo or in the 25,000 seat Roman amphitheatre at Miletos, a keen sense of discovery is heightened by the welcome absence of many fellow tourists at these isolated sites. STILL FURTHER SOUTH, the adjacent bays of Marmaris and Fethiye, named for two current major ports, could each alone be the subject of an entire cruising vacation. Situated at the confluence of the Aegean and the Mediterranean, they are strewn with sheltered beaches fringed with ever- - Delightful houses overlook the harbor of Marmaris, along Turkeys Aegean Coast. The chartered yacht, Kaptan, sits anchored in the Bay of Manastir, on the lovely Aegean Coast of Turkey. green trees and rocky hills. And, they provide ample opportunities for exploration of both ancient ruins and modern Turkish towns. Few visitors can put their cameras down for long as they enter the port of Marmaris. The half moon shaped harbor is bor- dered with sparkling white buildings under orange tile roofs. These are set against rugged hills and the massive brown 6tone walls of the 16lh century fortress of Sultan Suleyman the Magnificent. In the sixth century B.C., Marmaris prospered as a trading port on the route between Egypt and Rhodes. Later, it fell under a sequence of Lydian, Roman and Byzantine rules until it was reclaimed by Turkish powers in the 13th century. Now a charming seaside resort with a resident population of 7,000, its major industries are ship building and tourism. THE PRIMARY ATTRACTION of Marmaris is that it is old enough to be quaint but new enough to be Convenient. The busy downtown bazaars and harborside cafes are only minutes from quiet beaches and pine forests. Set aside at least an entire morning or afternoon to stroll through the central market, a tent covered maze of shops offering wares from antique oil lamps to modem fashions. Turkish carpets either knotted or woven can be purchased for about half their U.S. prices, and there are good buys on leather, brass and copper. Turkey is particularly noted for its many varieties of honey. A half kilo purchased in Marmaris is well worth the extra weight in luggage taken home. A rented bicycle is best for exploring the forested outskirts of Marmaris. A ride to the western end of the bay brings you to several large modem resort hotels along the beach. Among these, hotel Lidya and Marti Holiday Village are good stops for sipping cool drinks overlooking the sea. Just a half mile east of downtown, the boat building industry is in full swing. Dozens of hand laborers work along the waterfront to fit together the wooden sailing ships for which Marmaris has become widely noted. After sunset, the harbor comes alive with music, outdoor dining and vacationers strolling along the quay. Typical Turkish meals of eggplant dishes, salads garnished with feta cheese and black olives, fresh fish and finely textured breads are served at numerous cafes overlooking the bay. For the traveler with a tendency for cabin fever, Marmaris is an ideal place to spend a night or two off the boat in a harborside pensiyon (pension) or one of the larger hotels, such as the Kaptan or Atlantik. Continuing southward toward Fethiye Bay, the cruise can take advantage of many isolated coves where anchoring in still waters allows opportunities for sunning on deck, water sports and hikes inland. At the small bay of Manastir, for example, evergreen trees line the shore laying a carpet of pine needles on the beach. Nearby, stone walls and archways outline the skeleton of a large Roman construction. Partially submerged, this marks the remains of a sizable harbor commercial operation. Now, the site is ideal for sheltering picnics along the shore. 2,000-year-o- ld A few hours away by boat, archaeology is in progress at Kaunus, a large fifth century B.C. Roman town still under excavation. Small launches meet passengers on larger vessels to take them up a narrow stream leading to the once thriving community. Still in evidence is a 2,000 seat stadium, a walled marketplace, a large church and numerous smaller buildings. Diggers are busy piecing together the pottery shards, ancient utensils and stone statuary that are helping to unravel the towns history. MARKING TURKEYS SOUTHWESTERN corner, the town of Fethiye is a historic port of about 10,000 residents. Unlike Marmaris, it has not built up a major tourist trade. Instead, the visitor is treated to a glimpse of culture that appears older and more foreign. A steep cliff, with awesome fourth century B.C. Lydian tombs carved into its ediface, is a towering backdrop to the low buildings crowding the shore. A leisure stroll through Fethiye leads away from the palm trees at harborside into narrow cobblestone alleys that wind toward the center of town. Busy outdoor markets are replete with fresh vegetables, bolts of Turkish cotton, tubs of thick yoghurt and gallon jars of honey. At the many small sidewalk cafes, the art of slowly sipping sweet Turkish coffee seems to have taken on the proportions of a national pasttime. In the Turkish language, the word for goodbye is different for the one who is leaving and the one who is staying. For visitors to the Aegean coast, still another expression would be appropriate for the one who intends to return again soon. For further information contact: Turkish Tourism and Information Office, 721 United Nations Plaza, New York, N.Y. 10017; and Yesil Marmaris Travel Agency, Kordon Cad 37, PO Box 8, Marmaris, Turkey. The Salt Lake Tribune Home Magazine, Sunday, October 17, 1982 II 1 5 gj. |