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Show 4 12 Tlie Salt Lake Tribune, buiida, April 2, 1972 Authentic American Cuisine the Hamburger Invades Paris By Alison ad ith sports ter posters, cloths and Lernck Its PARIS hard to con- An apostle of the hamburghe came to Paris hist Christmas with a suitcase, a Labrador retriever named Alice and a bag of hamburger rolls. His mission : lo create a little corner of New York in the form of his new restaurant, Joe Allen, almost a copy ol his West Side restaurant, Joe Allen. "Theres no doubt about it. We make the best hamburgers tiiis side of the Atlantic. The beauty of this particular situation is that there is no competition, says Allen, a tough West Sider in a turtleneck and jeans who just turned 39 years old for the first cai-bo- .'. . IK': Striped Awning Homesick Americans .f Chef in Ameriean-St- rf j le dinners. green-an- -- white-striped d Wver Really Sober ons. Like martini- -. Allen himself turned restaurateur 12 years ago be a tire I was a shif Jess who liked to drink and stay out lae. R seemed like a good excuse, or rather it was a case of coddling my nemNow lie never touches os'. ne'er-do-we- and have awn- Tales Continue lo Flow 01 Nazi in : S. America ar qjkaszxxa) ar cromDomD here. It's the fat, confides ilen. The French were horrified. The butcher couldn't believe his eyes. When we started o grind in the fat, he turned ashen." Added to a roll, the finished product tastes just l'ke home. That is, if New Yoik is home to you. Americans come here and I expect what they ate at home even if they come from California. When it's different, they get very emotional, as if I had burned the flag," he says But in some instances, I've been the Messiah. And many New Yorkers have a) eat here twice a month to keep their sanity. How should you eat a Rare and with your hands, as opposed to the Continental method of knife and fork But spare the ketchup, please. The greatest fans of ketchup, says Allen, are people who have been to boarding school or jail." At present, he is plotting to ham-buige- r? 2.4 Million in Jordan AMMAN now Jordan (AP) a population of .government figures has 2,418,000, show. About live on west bank, and the rest in the e under the rule of King the Israeli-occupie- 700,000 d procure additional delicacies for his demanding cuen.ele real lousy They include American cheese for chee-- e burgers, California wine, on a coa!s-to-Newcastle bas. and American coffee. It s not better or worse, but different. You cant compare to apples oranges, says Allen, sipping his espresse But, to his great surprise, he found that New Yorkei eat more omelettes than the -- French. Yeah, says Allen, who keeps his omelettes chalked up on the blackboard menu with Yankee stubborness, no one eats them except me. I'm sick to death of all those han burgers. but never really sober pither, he says. Americans bring out the nuciear weap- ing in the heart of Les Halles, around the corner from the historic home of snails and tripe. "The fact that were here is a closely guarded secret. We cant get the phone listed. This adds to the adventure of the experience, says Al'en, his left who native city bein Colomihe Munich than Norman or Cropsland By he Since was iiis bored. cause bian bush. The Manchester Guardian he can hardly w ait to arrival, The hunt for war cmninals get back. The mere thought of BONN Since the early in South America has been the New York Sunday Times, post-wa- r headlines announcBorconcentrated mainly on the Knicks and the "masoching that Hitler had found refmann and the infamous consense of istic American uge m Patagonia, there has centration camp doctor, Josef humor beings figurative been an intermittent flow o' Mengele. tears to his eyes. stories about other old Nazis No genuine trace of Bor"ive developed a keen enjoying the protection of mann has ever been found, Yankee for Latin American dictators. appreciation bu its reasonably certain knowhow. In New York, all The poor old banana growthat Mengele was in Paraer, Johann Hartmann, whom guay six or seven years ago. that can happen to you Is to get killed on the streets. Here, the Colombian police draggHtj The Paraguayan dictator, they wear you down with anxthe worlds before press Gen. Alfredo Stroessner, is and frustration, says recently on suspicion of being said to have told German dip- iety Allen, who had sworn off cigaMartin Bormann, former head lomats: A war criminal rettes but was driven back of Hitlers Chancellor, was called Mengele is unknown to to them by the French. about the 20th Bormann to me. I only know of the Parabe unearthed Since the war. Nine Weeks Aborning guayan citizen, Jose Mengele It is mistaken to believe and he is no concern of the The biith of his Faris resthat at any time there weie Federal Republic of Germany. taurant took nine weeks, more prominent old Nazis in The French government has which must be a West EuroLatin America than in West recently been trying without pean record, considering that when given two tilings to Jo, Germany itself. Some of the success to persuade the Bolivmost spectacular war crimes ians to extradite a certain the French invariably do the trials since Nuremberg have Klaus Altmann, alias Klaus less important one first. The dealt with men whc had beBarbie, the former Gestapo backers include Lauren come inconspicuous and chief of Lyon. President Hugo Bacall and a host of Broadworthy members of Banzer of Bolivia has said way directors, actors and acWest German society. that tresses. only the independent Theyre the poor Bormann, if still alive, is courts of his country could fools who put up the money, make extradition orders, a says Allen candidly. unlikely to be here, although it could be argued that his cynical remark considering The ambiance of the new that the Bolivian courts are Joe Allen East is still defichances of escaping detection brick would be better in Hamburg anything but independent. nitely New York If I go wild Evpn such excess ,s gorge. excusable in view of such rarities as coleslaw, baked potatoes in aluminum foil and 16 ounce sirloin steaks. This feeds a family of four in France, says Allen. "Americans overeat, I suppose. Since the simplest things are exotic here, among them chili powder and maraschino cherries, the black bean soun is made of red beans. !t tastes remarkably like black bean soup, he marvels. In contrast, the spinach salad tastes like lettuce. The dill pickles are real. But the hamburger is the specialite maison. The secret? The French drink mildly but on a continuous basis. Theyre never really drunk courageous Frenchmen more or less been trying to find that successfully Paris branch of Joe Allen restaurant prepares typically n t'me. JL Pitt-burg- stocked American bar. The waiters all allegedly speak English, even if thy dont always understand it. This is fortunate since Alien's French is limited to cafe. At the moment he is too busy that to learn, considering French bartendeis are proap to flnkmg his course m American drinking habits. er fa'th, ? covered pictures and theared checked tablepaper napkins, the Supremes in the jukebox, a blackboard instead of a menu wJh French translations m parentheses and a real over- vince the Frei ch that a hamburger is not to be taken lightly, says Joe Allen. And for a while they had him wondering whether he had bit'en off more than he could chew. ' infinitum w Associated Press Writer a. tt ll ZCM .J? I tl.e stuff. His first chef in Pans was a Frenchman he repatriated, but it didn't work out. says Allen. He had been living in America for 10 years, and he hated France too much to So Alien set out to stay. teach the French American gastronomical standards. At best, this was a cultural problem, he adds. 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