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Show THE SALT LAKE TRIBUNE, fcl'NDAY MORNDs'O, APRIL 15. 1929. The Home Harmonious hTHE COOK BOOK BY WILLELLA By Jane Eddington DE CAMPl ftot Pot Oxtails and Oxtails Alsacienne Oxtail Cookery. IN midsummer last year some one aboui ..having watched this in vain for a long' time for At. that r'ieasM ".bitaSJ :wVe 'hot in the market. Lately the call has been of another . sort, this: certain oxtail recipe. It is related that this soup was not known in England before the abrogation of the edict of Nantes, and that oxtails had little value. ; ' tftfneh "Muswnot ;hv;-,i, i " Berron's tflr"-to have invented the soup; It has, Next we resort to the complete Mrs. however, become so popular that it is Beeton the book weighs five and now considered a nstional English pounds with the hopes Of. soup, and cannot any longer be considered as economical ..as it formerly finding out something about the uses Of "fashionable oxtail," was on account of the cheapness of but though the has five recipes for a soup of.this its principal material." (Here follows meat- she gives us,' la the line eg' Mew of it cost-- , on it, etc. quite a minute distory only a little talk about the she says is an " ungulated cussion ) Finally, this: ' It might he and also includes the cow in supposed that at least a part of the this category. She says the Egyp-Hon- s reputation of this soup might be due bad prize oxen and mentions the to a particularly nice flavor derived fact that the ox forms one of the signs from the oxtails But as the body of of the zodiac, from which fact I am" the solip consists in all recipes which sure there is a long tale. And it. seems we have seen of stock produced with there la a breed of cattle in England the usual materials other than the supposed to be descendants of t'rus or tails, and enriched as usual, the oxtail "mountain hull," which inhabited the goes for little In its quality. The soup forest districts of Britain at the time is mostly thickened with puree of peas, of the Roman Invasion. carrots, turnips, lentils, and celery, Mrs. Beeton always encloses the and then becomes heavy:" And Thudicum says he quotes a French names for oxtail soups in recipe for thick oxtail soup "as an parentheses, after the English. For inillustration of. the .superstition relating stance, one heading is like this: " soup. Ft. Potage de Queue de to bones," and ends it thus: " In opposition to the advice to boil bones of Boeuf, clalr. and after one recipe has this note: "The larger pieces of tall the value of twopence for six hours, we counsel our readers to avoid bones should be reheated in brown sauce, or a good curry sauce, and' served as and to produce oxtail soup, If the a dish for luncheon." fancy moves them, on the principals developed in our general chapters on Oxtail Becomes Fashionable. broths and soups." Thudicum gives us some highly inWe can guess that Thudicum was teresting matter about oxtails, first trying to be scornful here of a man in his outline of what there is in who was much more scientific than a carcass of beef, or on. His book. himself, who did use bones, a chemist "The Spirit of Cookery," was written mainly, but a cook on the side. We in 1895. "and in this outline he says: need the services of some 10.000 of The tail of an ox Is now an expenthe latter today when our waste of sive piece, its meat being paid for We might even bones is colossal. at a higher rate than rumpsteak. In value the " block ornamlnts " of the the beginning of the century the tall English poor, if we were good Huguewas worth from sixpence to nots, and it would be to the gain of pence only." human as well as animal substance. A young woman lately told me her EscofBer's Recipes. . cat's liver had gone up. She said she had not known that people ate Now let us look in the index of Escof-fier'- s " Guide to Modern Cookery " beef liver, but the butcher said they were doing so, and you know we have we believe he is.the greatest of modern more lng ox cheek, ox palates and ox tongues. Most of these recipes are elaborate and what no plain cook would essay. XV. - ex,-whi-ch rumf--nant- ," " Madam: h Help! Aid! Suceof! I come to yon as a last straw. If you cannot help me I am going to depart Do you rememfor lands unknown. ber 'way back, before this male individual by name '.Volstead ' ever was heard of, do you remember the kingly dish called 'braised oxtails' served in our better restaurants? Do you remember the sauce served with this dish? Do you remember the zest and tang of good old Madeira? " I ate a dish of oxtails yesterday. It. was flat, flat, flat. However, a friend of mine informs me that the sauce can- be made without Madeira and still have the flavor of same. If you know how this la done please send me the complete recipe for making braised oxtaHsv"-"-- ' It proved that I was a poor straw Perto lean on in this emergency. sonally, I am no enemy of Volstead, and do see. when I go out anywhere, many a law besides his broken. For instance, in a great number of places even on my suburban platform shelter there appear in several places There the words " No Smoking." must lie some reason for this besides my hatred of tobacco, but every man that wants to smokes there just the same. Some straws show that we are a lawless race. But I also was brought up in the Neal Dow state. That reformer was a total abstainer and got our state prohibition, where there had been awful examples of family destructions or less liver daffy today, because of "drink." So you' see I do gone so it is interesting to find (hat Thunot know the tang of old Madeira, dicum does not even mention beei although I do know how widely it was liver, though he tells about the use used in America from William Penn of ox blood as food, ox brain which he to Delmonico's day, though now the Tays is not eaten, but I have known a processes of wine making have come woman, who was one of many, cooking io interest me because they are expert it In our own South Dakota. He also types of cookery of a sort. includes feet, heart and kidneys. But as j.o seasoning oxtails, what Thudicum is surely enlightening in shall we do? The fat, if not seasoned the following: "Oxtail soup derives its well, is " flat, flat, flat." It is hateful In several ways. specificity from the pieces of oxtail which are cooked in it, and are to be Wine Seasonings. served witb it. Oxtail was the first It has been rather conclusively croven that the alcohol or snirit of Ingredient In the old recipe for julienne tiy Marc Heliot, cook of Louis brandy is dissipated by cooking temperatures- as by fire, but of course we may immediately think of the spiced wines. However, these were not subjected to any such heat as a cake with wine flavor, yet sauces on the other hand are made at the lowet1 or spiced Clear--oxta- - Two cabinets Correct Placement of Furniture Means Balance and Harmony have resulted in one of the most enAt the windows are ivory pressions. net glass curtains. Over draperies are joyable apartments which it has been of my pleasure to visit. A section of the deep copper colored silk hanging to the floor, without valances and finliving room is illustrated today. The walls are painted a soft pistachio ished at the bottom with a full ten inch ruffle of the same material. The green and the woodwork is in a deeper tone of the same. Greerr chenille carvertical edges are finished with a narrow copper colored fringe. peting covers the floor. At the wins dows are lustrous silk gauze glass Because of the rather long narrow in a light copper color. Over shape of the room a drawing table is used. Cane hack, beech wood chalra curtains are of flowered glazed chintz on a light copper "ground. have down filled seat cushions in deep copper damask. In the center of the The sofa, which is placed in front dining table is a long oval pewte'-- ' of one of the windows, is upholstered bowl. Additional pieces of old pewter Near one end chintz. injhe drapery are displayed on an open dresser, of the sofa is a small table which vhirh is wisely placed between two holds a latpp, smoking accessories, and windows at one side of the room. a vase of flowers. A cheat, of drawers for linen and silver The little chair at the other end of stands at the opposite side. the sofa is upholstered in a On the chest is a pair of Ivory potgreen striped silk with little flowers tery lamps with batiked paper shades,. in the stripes. Beautifully balancing the group, in the wail spaces at each At each side of the door which leads in from the kitchen is a convenient side of the window, are cabinets conconsole table. Old French engravings taining interesting pieces of porcelain, in . narrow black frames relieve the pottery, glassware and books. At the opposite side of the room Is plainness of the walls. A deep copper colored rug figured in black is used a fireplace with a comfortable armon the floor. chair accompanied by ar table, at each side. One chair is upholstered in the The kitchen is compact and delightdrapery chintz, the other in green A lamp on one of the tables is fully gay in its use of color. The walls are a bright yellow, the woodmade of old ivory pottery with a light Built-icabinets are work white. copper colored shade. The other chair is lighted by a wrought iron reading most conveniently placed for effica sake. They are white with gay ,,lamp,, .of hitereMine de.M?n " iency's BE ' plaid,,i.Rhade .at' .decorative- baliked. naweraTh.p A On beside and It the small doors table their pair' of panels. paper. current magazines are kept. bright yellow chairs and a yellow table with a white top, are the only movable As the central point of interest in the third wall space, a lo,ve)y secrepieces of furnfture. Cooking utensils are enameled. They limit themselves tary desk, laeqiteced green. Is placed. It Is flanked by a pair of Chippendale ' to no one tolor, but repeat those in chairs lacquered to match with flowthe peasant flower designs so that ered brocade seats. Sidelights above they form a veritable kitchen flower each chair are fitted with parchment garden! At the windows are ruffled shields. At the fourth side of the curtains of white voile, with large in yellow. room open book shelves flank a wide polka dots embroidered French door which leads into the dinBlack, gray and white linoleum covers the floor. ing room. for A,ny Room cW-tain- klACE your furniture wisely and your room is made," says a well known decorator. The veracity of this statement Is especially noticeable in instances of small rooms, such as those allotted to us in the average apartment, and suburban home. The importance of good balance and arrangement cannot be overestimated. The smallest, most insignificant type of room may assume an imposing air, a rest fulness and charm, if its furnishings be tactfully and pleasingly arranged. In large rooms, top. study of placement must not be overlooked. Even luxuriously large rooms appear cluttered and wearisome if furniture is set about with no definite idea or ' Plan. A good rule to bear in mind is that furniture (the large and important pieces, especially) should follow the architectural lines of the room. Sofas should not be placed crosswise of a corner, with the misconceived idea of .".cosiness."-- . L.arg6 $4eees i f tjrait.fjre,-- s placed,- serve' only to 'form ''ar'tien-- " fusion of lines and an unsettled appearance which is anything but satisfactory. "Comfort" should be a in the scheme of arrangement. Where there Is a fireplace, the furniture should be so arranged as to enhance its charm and cheerfulness. For enjoyable reading, a comfortable armchair, a convenient table and a lamp of one type or another may be pleasingly grouped near a, window. Another good rule is that of using tome one particularly interesting piece, such as a graceful sofa, for a nucleus around which other piece's may be effectively grouped. Pairs of things, whether pieces of furniture or accessories, help to create a balanced atmosphere. two-ton- belter-skelte- . at either tide of a tofa complete thit unit. - e In the dining room a connecting link in color scheme with that of the liv4 ing room is introduced by means the use of copper color. Walls are natural colored plaster. Woodwork is black, relieved by lines of cobper in the door panelings and baseboard de-- Skillful placement and good balance appearance of antiquity. A the windows are ivory organdy curtains. Toile de Jouy draperies have a design They in rusts on an Ivory ground. reach to the floor and are fitted with valances and cuffs to match. A lovely four post bed has an ivory tufted cover. Its tester valance and head draperies are of ivory organdy with a rust colored moss edging. A night stand holds a. glass lamp with a. flower print shade. As the room is fairly large it was permissable to place a small sofa at the foot of the bed. This is uphol- BRIGHT SAYINGS OF CHILDREN Wllliard was going to have a birthday party and all of his little friends were invited. "Do I have to bring something?" asked one little girl. " Well, you better if you 'spect to get any o' our good eats," retorted D. T. M. Bill, promptly. Six year old John was talking to his new baby' brother. Som one asked htm if he thought the baby" heard him, to which John Replied, "O, he bears me all right, but I don't think G. M. G. he quite gets me yet.' Little Enid wii Much Interestea to find that (dogsy bury their foods and later dig it tip nd eat it. She had watched her new dog, Tige, bury "a bone her mother had given him for dinner. Some time later she noticed Tige scratching his head, and called, " O, mother, look! Tige's trying to think what 'he did with fits nSh'f T S2 A wee boy had a big Newfoundland dog by the collar and was trying to lead him up the street one. day. "Where are you going to'take that big dog, little man? " asked a passe- upon beihg told it was in he remarked casually, " want it. I just Wanted nobody had burgled it: " Needless to say, he got ' Little Joan came running from her darkened bedroom, a frightened expression on her face. " What's the matter? " she was asked. "Oh, oh." she panted, "something Jumped at me and scared myself." J. 11. M Did you and Hal make us? I saw you playing with him this ..morning," said Jimmy's older sister to him. " Aw, I was try.to be mad at him, but I went through the alley this was settin' on his back morning and he porch satin' cookies," said Jimmy with ", & a forgiving " 3, was so fend of ltd Bobby. playing with our toy automobile that ho had on one occasion refused to part with it when It wss time to go home. He bad. therefor, been forbidden Is) ask for it when be called gaits. But Bobby was s budding dlplomst Os bis next visit he asked, " How is yotn- toy sutohtle running now? T auto-'btle..- " C. B. S. Mother and Helen were delivering the invitations for her sixth birthday . party. '" ..V ,, ;..,', Mother'?" inquired Helen. " will toy always be on the 14th?" birthday " Yes, dear' replied her mother. " Then," Acla.im.ed the little girl. they can J&st keep these invitations and use thejn next year, can't they?" G. L. R. f -- - stered Jn flowered glazed intz on an ivory ground. Between two windows is a kidney shaped dressing table with a deep valance of red and white checked gingham, finished with ivory ergany ruehings. A large' wing chair in one corner of the roojh is done in flowered Grandmi always mended the entire lot of fatoillv stockines before she mated an roiled them. When She" returned to her sewing chair Gorglanna had the mended hosiery on he floor and was mating them according to length and color. u What are yw doing wHn aH myv Stbcldniwr h " I'm Jus' makin' partners," "anGM. B. swered the little girl. chintz, matching the sofa. Pleasingly balanced, in the Wall spaces at each side of the doorway leading into the room, are a delightful old highboy and a secretary desk. - The desk is supplemehted by a ladk chair and by a reading lamp .with a whits arebmerit, shade, decoHooked rags , axe rated uwr in- - o&njiincliqn jrtth d"eep blue der-bac- carpeting. - LEAP YEAR PROPOSALS r-by. " Well, I'm. gonna, see where he was the weary wants to M. T. B. reply. good order 0. I didn't to be sure the " American colonial furniture and decin the beautifully Woodwork and peaceful bedroom. wainscoting are painted ivory. The wall paper shows scenic and pastoral medallions in rust tones on an ivory ground. The whole has been finished with a coat of shellac to give it the orations are used A Role He'd Love io Play. It wasn't that she was hard up for a man, O, no! She juft had too It bad always been a date many. here, and a date there, but always a date, until she was mentally and physically sick of it Being a small community, and she a teacher In that community, the knew if she refused one date, she must refuse them au, for one must be democratic to be diplomatic. Therefore, she hit upon this unique idea which she explained In writing ts aa out of town young mas; " Feme, thing must be done; so I'm doing it I have the dismosdf tnd I'm announcMy fiance, of ing my engagement course, is a fake. Could you play the part of a fake?" Wss the question thoughtlessly Jotted dewn? Nevertheless, the reply was this " If you ar satisfied with a fake, I'll play that role forever for ysu." r t. And he's doing It ' b' Allegorical "Virion. o Several weeks ago I had a mysterious dream; sketchy, fragmentary, and difficult to remember in full, as dreams often are. It seemed I was wandering through a strange city at night I was in search of some indefinable yet priceless treasure, and the fervor of my desire for the mysterious object of my wandering spurred me on through the chilly night air, from one unknown street to another. Suddenly a great ball of gold appeared before me. and I clasped it in my arms, and made off on the wings of the wind. Due to the eaptwre of my sriee, however, I wss taken te Jail, and I awoke from my dream reaching my arms over my head and wrenching the bed post hoping to break through the prison bars. Since the date of this absurd dream I eloped with a wonderful girl with golden hair. I elasped her In my arms on s chilly night, msds off on the wings of the wind, married her. and now. in my cynical moods, I am per- ststent .n declaring myself pris- E. H 6. -- cooks for " Queue de Boeuf." We find them "a la Cavour," "a l'Auvergnate," "en Hochenpot" "grille," "soup," " farele." He says: " Ox tails, sectioned or unsectioned, are usually braised, and only the thicker half of the caudal appendare is ever used." In only one of the recipes is wine white called for. In the first recipe the oxtails are gently cooked four He recommends hours and six different sauces, with an " etc.," one-hal- for grilled oxtails. Fat Sonp. In French cook books we find oxtail soup under " fat soups." and food old Tabitha Tlckletooth says this in hsr recipes four hours' cooking of the tails: "As ths tails axe always very tat.- .it "is..'e-mithai mi sotib be made7the day before It is required, for in spue oi inn sTeausi care in saun- mini: it will be too rich." She cooks friend bullous Hver with it, flavors it with port wine and soy, adds raock force meat and egg balls, and for V rections advises it beaads lias a wts '""" We Imagine her soup might be Bks the most dreadful at Mulligatawnsy's. Ranhefer'i Oxtails. And now getting up our energy the book weighs nias and pounds we taken down Bsnhofsds " The Epicurean " from the shelf, ast was of "the golden days of DebxMMs- ico," and gives the French names) ss) well as the English in Ills titles, which are: Oxtails a la Castellane, oxtails A la chlpollta, oxtails Alsatian style, fried oxtails,' oxtails hocbepot oxtails with vegetables." All these recipes oaQ for many ingredients, but always a aook may omit with discretion, when fundament: principles of cooking ar otherwise followed. Brandy Is called for tn bis i sitisn oxtails. The fried oxtails are first bailed three hours, with elaborate seasonings, then egged sad crumbed, and served with tomato sauoe. A gill of brandy is also called for In the not pot Finale. And now, in a cool place, I pieces of " the thicker half of the da! appendage " of an ox. What shall I do with them? I shall cook than so that the fat will get finely seasoned with vegetables ana perhaps with butter. If I were making a dish tor un dernourished people, or in where the most food at ths expense was the demand, I thicken that fat with some starchy stuff and not wasts a globule of it, I have paid elfhteen cents a pound for what I have, and I do not know whether that Is average price or not, but since the tails are fat, I know I may have got my money's worth only if I utilize that fat or those abundant calories. What I would like to do Is to go on looking into 600 more cook books on this subject so that I might know enough on the total scope of what oxtail cookery has been, that I might produce a different dish fmm: them for every day in the year, if I chose, and could get the other ingredients to vary it almost everything known. I can cook it now without having a " flat " dish, and have never used wine. ai w:vttW'"sip. one-four- th (Copjnrirbt: 1B28: By The Cbiesto Trlbeae. Practical and TaneucAfaedfe Wort Today there are Imported red and and sherry heavily salted. These are used in meat cookery I have not tried them and cost $1.65 a wine bottle. Some of our soy sauces are said to be molasses saturated with salt, and perhaps these are made on that idea, but whether they are saturated or not I do not know. The salted wines answer only fqr seasoning meats, while certain wine essences or jellies are on sale for flavoring sweet sauces. One of them does something that is acceptable to. a Nesselrode pudding rum, you know, was imperative for that, once but the other flavors seem to me washed White wines out Oxtail Cookery. The following statement from " The Encyclopedia of Poetical Cookery " English, suggests that if we could find a good Huguenot cook book we might really learn how to make the best and finest use of this humble meat: " Kettner informs us that the oxtail in which we now take a national pride was originally Huguenot, and we learned the taste for it from the poor Protestant refugees who settled In this region of about Bermondeey. the tanners there is, or was. a place known as 'the Borgeney Petty BurThe Huguenots, when they gundy. saw oxhides abounding about them, thought they could make something of the tails, which were then sold with the hides. They make an excellent " soup. " A philanthropist who happened to be a .lover of good cheer wai ih- th habit of visiting the homei of the poor Frenchmen here at SpttaJ fields and Petty Burgundy." In Bitty Burgundy he came upon the oxtail soup, which Opened his eyes; and hi then made such proclamation of thjt goodness of it that it became Mi course of . time a fashionable dish." I Following this introduction there is a recipe for boiled oxtails with butteftonions, carrots, turnlpsj floor to CUT ARM ;4hteken the- gravy, ajiwith slow ek-in- g for braised oxWf"with"'cTiegtn'ur pure fat bacon Is In this case the fat uMtT"Xrrtnxi&ityr ralUf y xtr. unflfttjen the ox fat. and white wine is called for. Other recipes here are for broiled oxtails, curried oxtail, fried oxtail, haricqt of oxtail, oxtail soup Ave long ones are under this head and stewed Home-a- t oxtail. Preceding this section Is the and after it this: subtitle " The marrow taken from the spinal column. See Amourettes." Amourettes. And of course we rushed to see Amourettes, which literally means in COVERS for chairs or French "little loves." And what we lounges that are slightly worn, ss learned was that " this term is applied well as for handsome pieces of to small garnishes made from the furniture, w ill often prolong their spins.) marrow of beef, veal or mut-- t usefulness ss well as adding to their or. " It tells how to prepare them and attractiveness. Then, too, tt ysu are there Is also a long recipe With a staying most of the summer In town fer " Tim bales of Amourettes Old in your house or apartment you will Roman Style." covWs thought there would surely be want as much of your furnituremake ered ss you can. People today oxtail recipes in the Great Francatem's slip covers for HI their furniture, lesv-lncookbook, dedicated to an earl, by s 4iuch of it on sll the year. That who had been a pupil of the most f LA is, on chairs and lounges. For summer mous cook ever the celebrated C coverings the lovely glased or ordinary reme and ".chief cook to her majesty, chintz or cretonne is used, end the cov- Victoria, queen of Englanc." But her rs are made perfectly plain no gathare no oxtsll recipes, though there are s or plaits and three for explths which Franca telil myj does BOt define as amourettes, but ia a note says: " The pith consists ef the went into a beautiful apartment in Tork last summer, and bookcases. spinal marrow, which ia mors generaltables including the dining ly taken from sides of beef; that taken e, library tabls. dining room chairs from veal and mutton is else occs- - mjpo. sflt. everything had these lovely f tonally used covers on, way to the floor. Francatelu also has recipes tor cook- - Material sphead over, chair to be Cut Cox.Fc:hct f "II - - Siip C overs for the Furniture May Be Made at a Reasonable Cost of Time and Money "ox-pith- S' pic-tU- g - 1 "Pi n Seat Cover AND at P "PRjOMT "Pietoes anTi i But the chairs or other pieces of fur-on all-- the time are usually made with ruffles or plaits at the bottom. If you happen to have a machine on a stand a cretonne cover that comes to the floor will he a great protection, and will look well, besides. Of course it would cost a small fortune to have a great deal of this work done and it can quite easily be accomplished at home if you are willing to . try. ':' The principle of cutting is the same for all chairs and lounges; and the work will be easier if you choose a small, design. Cover a chair, for Instance. Thumb tacks or pins are used to hold the material in place while Pull a 'thread to get the working. material straight at one end, and then pin this across the top of the back of the chair, leaving a good seaaVfMtb Bring 'the material down te the seat and pin up a quarter inch tuck ttsjkt across. Then lay the material smoothly over the seat pinning in another . - -, Ua - "TrrfurrTBarTreetfslrp-cover- g - ',''-..'"- all-ov- - - - j(ow fleep jj,,, Yxt or fitted section is te be three or four inches w.u be sbout right and after letting the cretonne extend below the edge of the sat tha' depth and a sism's waflti bendpull a thread and cut off. On upholstered chairs and davesv the material should be tueked in where and laid across ths center of the extra length allowed; but. in cover ing cane or wooden chairs this doesn't need to be done. The piece that "covers the back should be pinned to the front section across the top and then allowed to go dewn the back the same depth as on the front Straight strips are cut the width of the top of the arms, aad an allowance for seams made oeswee Then pin lengths of ths material te the Inside and outside of the arms and sides of the chair, pinning in a half inch seam to each edge of the straight h-- k andtfle-tug-k arm strip. The satire cover is pinned together in this way and out after each piece is pinned. Be sure tad leave half inch seams. Take the oarer est and baste and stitch together on the basted lines. Then turn in the edges of each seam aad baste or earband together. men stitch close te the edge - unt are really French on the outside. ,'sjMew Sometime the various pieces are peat together with s narrow piping sagas? a contrasting 'osor a used is plain, but the other war MM. tittle easier aad very is impossible to give detailed her for each step of ths west, test i tf the piece yeu ar ., |