Show I ii iii e i 4 I I 4 l lr lt r t t r n ni y l i V Vr Vi 1 r it iti I i i i f r ft 1 I It I t J I j i 1 t I j 1 if i 4 1 it I IJ 4 1 J 1 i 1 W I L r rI I A I H I tr I t K i I ty b Dun Durr Kew N Y YOlk ok NEW LENGTH COAT oooo oooo o a o oU 0 i U o FIGURES i ig o o 0 I h g 0 AND ANDe 0 g p e jj r 0 0 FASHIONS 0 01 0 i jL ACK to tho dear kar d ar old tow town I again It queer that w we wei wc i c B BACK who live In It always refer reter t to f New York Tork by that phrase Wo Q may Inn have hae been ever s B so soI son gay n during the summer I months other places may have prove proved ever vr so charming but tut were always alway Clad to get back bac to the tho old town again Yesterday afternoon It was almost G when I came camo down the hIgh steps Ue s of ot the Van big bier bl ston stono house and as the carriage made It Its I way vay wa down Fifth Filth avenue I leaned bad ack i among amonI the cush cushIons 1 i Ions and looked M fr at nt the dear old oli familiar seen scene with something like a thrill o of satisfaction a at being alive There was Wall the thi same gay a care careless careless less crowd o ot pedestrians the thi girls slender well groomed with their can j and cheeks ros rosy I from the wind I and their Ion draperies cling Old 0 w ut o Ing ng gracefully lo to them Chora There were the typical club men tall faultlessly sly dressed swinging along with athletic strides There wa watho was tho the sharp click of countless counties horses hoots hoofs on the tha smooth asphall 4 MId the gay gny throng of ot broughams and an eci victorias on their way back from th the park Now liow and then I would catch a s a of ot the occupant ot of a e learning from tho the dark Interior like t s a sV V jewel In her dinner dress of o pale silk 01 or creamy lace Ince From the rote rose hued lights t of or o and to th the Astoria th tM deeper re splendor of o the avenue was one ono whirl of vast alt ast call to pleasure even farther down lowa the way other glimmering lights j echoed the cry of ot their more fashionable N ble hie sisters Ah yes yea tG I 1 felt It was good to be bo back again Y I have always been glad that we lived In a house although for tor tho the mat matt f t r C of that if It we lived In an apartment wo vu should hould always keep It ready read for or use u from year car to year ear nut Hut did you ou ever eor reflect that more than half halt the population I lion tion of Now No York Tork changes Its dwelling place every fall Not ot only those thole who plop FlOp in boarding houses but those thole who have apartments a as well From August Au JUst gust to October on any uny pleasant day nomads cn in IDa may tee see sf these miserable d with nUh a long list lilt of address addre s and n ft 1 pencil prowling about In search starch of And what a II miserable search It Jr IF r with iti tho the prospect of ot the tho minimum of ot comfort for tor the tho maximum of ot money As All A Polly 10 Benedict remarked to me ye yes yesterday Its It a 11 question of whether starve In a palace or have plenty to eat In plebeian surroundings Polly OUght ouch to know because she Is a young woman with lIh artistic tendencies a 11 tiny tin Income and exalted Ideals One year she ac actually actually actually lived In a bachelor apartment It ii the Cr su skyscraper building with e II rental In four tour figures and a n beautiful view of ot Fifth avenue I fancy tancy that thai during luring that trying time she Bho subsisted mainly upon the view and the empire wall paper r for tor she sho admitted to me aft afterward afterward erward that crackers and beef beet extract were the principal Items of or her bill ol ot fare rue I At the end of ot tho the season when she sh had become so thin that she actually Ond a corset cOI et small email enough for fo her hor she ho gave crave it all up ond nud went Into n C a boarding house hou o somewhere In the thc Twenties where on nn Inartistic but whole wholesome wholesome some Borne smell of cooking perpetually lin lingered In the halls and attested the tho reality of ot three square meals a n day clay dayny Hy ny the way speaking of thinness re reminds reo reminds minds me of the tho opposite lle thing Have you OU noticed bow how the way of the stout woman Is being made easy casy for tor her nowadays Before the tho straight front corset was WI Invented what was she sho A shapeless thing tied in the middle like a 1 sausage And what agonies did dill she sha endure to get even that one OM narrow narro at effect 7 Now liow all aU h ii changed She presents a most Imposing and dig dignified front view with her shoulders set squarely back and her stomach and anil hips drawn In The Tho objectionable waist the Hue U Is merely Indicated by b the daIntiest and most moat sloping of girdles say Nay the tat fat woman oman can aspire to even more morece She ce is II given tho the consolation of knowing that In time she sho may dwindle to tho the most sylphlike proportions proportion If It he she has coura courage e and wears ars a II certain kind of corset This IbI la is most cleverly devised so that each tach day madam mallam may draw In certain Lain tain lacings which connect certain seams crams which contract not tho the waist IIno lino alone for tor that would be fatal tatal to proportion of her outline but practically practically the entire corset which thus each cach day dB shrinks as R It were And AnI do you ou ever notice peoples backs tomena backs LACk I mean Do DI you OU re reo allio the back of a 1 gown Rown Is II more Important than the front nowadays At It least with a 11 smart woman It Is III and this Ibis Is III just how you ou can distinguish the tho woman from the amateur The Tue new en back Is ns nl short as It Is possible pos to tomake tomake make nake It II In the tics case of long wo 0 mn and even ic with the short ones neg the belt has hilI a II decided upward tendency directly In the middle middie of the melt back The old days when a woman had bad hado lo to o have her waist as 01 long as III her Cre Cr Creator ator tor made maile It even If It ran down to 10 her lier er hels h ell are arc gone You Tou decile where rotc rot want lint your waist alst to end sa so that It U 1111 mss make the right proportion accord accordIng Ing ag to your lur skirt length lenth and behold four our modiste puts It there No more for all waist and sawed oft on women omen nut Hut I hear some Iome one exclaim If I have my waist end ena half way up my back how nm am I to make my skirt go up u so far tnt because even If It It Is hook hooked hooked hooked I ed to the waist It U is la i bound to wrinkle and separate The answer is bait I your our skirt shirt Is built up In the back Jut Just Justus Jutas Ju t us as many Inches as you have havo deducted from the tho lao length of your our waist so that there Is III the same sarna decided slope elope in the skirt that there Is In tIm the waist With Witha a straight skirt shirt band of ot course cou the new nol style back wont go at nil coil Out But try the tho new noW way avd find I ii I you will ice d ee e I how much taller l Il It will vilI make you 1 look Ip i ti a n New Yorker er I am amused amused amused used to vagaries and absurdities In mourning The Tho sight of a n aI p I woman wom n with a acL I crape crane bandI band cL I around her coat 4 0 sleeve a fashIon fash fashion fashIon ion which Is isI I distinctly for tor formen forI I If men on the eLla oth other er side does do s sA A band Und cl of Soot not even evela attract I blac 31 cup my notice Iam I I im am also callous to the tho sight of poodles s I clad In widows weeds weed but when It omes comes to what I saw Baw last night at a I fashionable hotel I have to draw theme the theline line me A pretty girl was attired in the nest most frivolous of ot white gowns cut with round neck and short sleeves and In Inthe the he nature of a 1 violent contrast to her hald omo Jewels she aha wore on the tho upper half calf of ot her h r bare left arm n a mot most co to band ban and rosette of sooty lack crape I T wonder If some people In n a this country really know the mean In n ng of proper mourning I Not liot to leave you OU with such a melan melancholY holy cholY subject let me announce that list the th smartest hat this thin fall Is 15 Hie Ule all black If Jr you ou want to be thor thoro thorup up to date get got one oner r New York V I |