| Show 1 if 1 I j r 5 GEBEl TEREK THE ROCK oc OF GIBRALTAR R The Tho I Worlds Fortress and Its It Surroundings r 5 I 5 1 n r I H II n n fl Special Correspondence JI i Au AUT Aug 15 U 1901 1 01 Like Mr Mrs M who thanked the Lord LOFtI after a n to tc fl voyage that she he was Ii once more safe sato on terra cotto r F c I H we feel teel Inclined to profound cst est thankfulness that our ted oct arc are at nt last upon Gebel Terek erek the rock that holds the strong strongest est fortress of ot the tho world hut alasi In InI I course courso of ot our globetrotting wo we are often compelled to abandon 1 Ideas some of ot which were labor drilled 1 Into u us at nt school and others plotted plod pl up early along the tho Jour Journey ney he of ot tire life For example In computing ing lag notes notel on shipboard about Gibraltar tar It was found that tully fully halt half the tho passengers believed tho the famous r k to be an nn Island ISIOn situated d exactly tho the Atlantic and Mediterranean meet meetH white while most moM of ot the tho other half hiatt thought 1 H It t a promontory extending Into the sea from the northwest corner of oC Africa j I d Your who vho fancies she aim has traveled enough to know some Homo goo IO k l was equally certain that Gib Gibraltar I extends Into mb tho the Straits at nt 1 their narrow narrowest ett between Spain and Africa And nil all of oC us taken The famous rock Is a 0 continua continuation I thou tion of tho the Spanish pro plo projecting PI 0 I into the waterway between he tile Atlantic and the tho Ib Mediterranean at th thI the I Very point of oC the tho mile pas page aage The point Is fifteen miles to the tue westward whelo and Africa are arc Ir only nine nino miles apart It wan wa from this tilts place by Ly the thet t I way fly I S SR long held by pirates I who demanded 1 heavy hea Vi toll loll from every overy passing vessel veasel that our OUI modern moll ern word I l tariff was ns ns as applied to tl C rates rate of ot duties on exports and Imports r r In the Spanish language tho the word won Is t I j yet et rendered tarifa and the grim old oldcastle oldcastle castle rein which the pirates enforced their demands may lilay today to Jay ba bo seen in intolerable Intolerable I tolerable repair t I Another disappointment to travels approaching from tram the th Atlantic Is that Gibraltar is hardly on enterIng tho the Straits Strait and Is 18 not viewed to ad advantage AdI advantage vantage until the tile steamer has rounded I a 1 point and entered ent thu the bay of ot AI Al Algeciras 1 Hut there the Is no mistaking It tt 4 when once you yau see s e It Had you boon bean If p sailing at nt sound asleep for a month with no idea part of the w II world you were In and suddenly I ned cued In front of ot the Uie UI gr great Nat nt took one ona glance would be sufficient to Gibraltar because there Is nothing like Ilka i i it on the globe Yet nil all your preconceived I f notion notions of ot Gibraltar formed from descriptions read rend and pictures seen lieen fall AU lIr r short of the reality and andas anda as at a you ou study the stupendous rock It tt Itt f t appears to 10 grow and grow grOY row This pride I of Ingland is ill often compared l to a aI I couchant lion Hon guarding tho the waterway to the Orient some Bome points of ot view the contour of tho the King of beasts besta I i is almost perfect head and amt shoulders J 1 I erect and facing Spain tall tail and body crouching lower and ant turned d j 1 t I Africa At other angles angl of oC vision Ilon it conjures up Ideas of ot u IL malevolent 1 sphinx dod centuries ago on account t c I of tome torn gruesome tradition tho Span Spanish S ish pennants christened It El EI the corpse On three Bides north cast east arid aM south the rod rock roc It towers toners sky skyward skyward ward fourteen hundred feet teet so neatly nearly I perpendicular as al to be utterly ble We by y man or beast while at nt Its III bua Juo i the tho sea lien roars roans anti and dashes Hinging flinging spray pray to tremendous heights height above Ibon I Point On the western side eWe It tt slops I gently down to tho the waters edge whore where Gibraltar city Is III nestled with Its IOPU population I I lation lallon of ot thousand or cr there thereabouts I about Including the British h gar garrison ar risen rison of ot six 1 n 1 soldiers 1 The rock tock Itself is perhaps three miles 4 long by n a quarter of a n mile wide and f away awa down donn below the narrow neck of ot I land lond which connects It with Spain Is w known as ns Neutral Ground which I th none nono are arc or permitted to cross You may lilay F drive to It U from Gibraltar town ana aM an t 1 get et out of your our carriage anti and wAlk to 4 i the path well w worn Yarn by y the Spanish pa patrol patrol t but the soldiers who guard It itt ii t with gun un on en shoulder will iii not t IN about taking a n life lIfo If It necessary to pre prevent I vent ent the putting of ot an allen alien foot upon 1 It We hove have Ital heard of female visitors nn sin noi i j Imbued with Mother dother Ires curiosity that they have offered the tho guard sums j of ot money mone for the privilege of ot printing I Just one dainty toe or heel on that for Cor forbidden J 1 bidden path but hut though the poor sol 1101 oi I Iller of at Spain Are arc notoriously shabby f 4 and l I am nm glad to say nay that lie Uie lieI I bribe is III Always sternly rejected This t I flat nat nandy neutral space spa ct less les than I I two to long hiss his been rendered uni un i by bv any land lant force through en contrivances by lIy in tile the twinkling of ot an eye tho the j I t strip could be blown to powder and scattered In the sea Ilea On either edge edio of I p t It the boundaries of ot British h and anti Span I t ish dominions dominion are marked by parallel lines of sentry box boxes In the th middle U Is t on en English racecourse m and drill ground roud J and anti hard by b ore are ar Jewish and Christian graveyards pathetic In theIr meanness it f and tangled neglect Arab dead are arc anI 1 I never nel r Interred here but are returned to t t their native dust on the African aide side of the straits While White anchored In front of ot Gibraltar you rOil are reconciled for the first t time In 1 raveling to the he tedious formalities that must be gone rone through at al every tOt fot Mim port before passengers are per permitted permitted to land lond because hours houta of ot wall wait ar aw are 4 not lone long enough to study these surroundings The coasts couts on Miner either hand are extremely wild and anti rugged mountains coming down dOlln to tom m meet et the tell sea their bases baes whitened by turf urt and worn into Innumerable cv CAVern ern and grottos grotto Long lines s of dark cliffs mark the tho Spanish OOt anti and line on the other side olde of tho ho nat naj natO ow row O waterway loom the rocky ridges at f r Barbary and Morocco lofOCO In the south nard Aan distance you sw er I dim shapes like monks lifting their snowy owls to the sky lev The Tha are a the tho Allah Alia mountains and th the singular thing bout bolt them Is I that they th have hate compare c Ively Ive no foothills foothill or sir ascending ml arh irh colossal height standing alone a 1 separate cone of mottled rock devoid f vegetation Above all the th re rest Mt t one ono onek k tremendous height stands boldly out M Ike the Abbot of oC the mars It is II Mons Mong Abla celebrated h Ii history as 01 one of ot tho tha Pillars f Hercules but bu now no desecrated by he title of Apes Ape Hill An n old Moor Ioor sh tradition declares that on this particular mountain mount tn of oC Africa were score sorn om the first monkeys that ventured the straits Descendants of the I tame lame tribe still Inhabit the rocky fast tast fasti i es of Gibraltar They have the of o being the only wild apes n ji the whole of oC Europ and are arc care Tully ully protected prot ted by law Directly OPP opposite site on the tho Spanish side Calpe CRIM h he highest ul point of ot Gibraltar Is Ii the th lher legendary Pillar formed by Hercules when on his way to Cades Gades h hore hll he ore these thue rock reck asunder to force torte a taXI for tor himself To th the ancients you OU new enel these thue Pillars of ot marked he h boundary of the navigable world wend all nil allo 0 o the tho westward being mystery and Navigators of at the olden olde I lays Sa contented themselves th melv with lIb cruls cruis II ng nr the which In the thelmo th thi i ime d at f the tribunes was WM known as the tho theL L Roman sea lea At rare Intervals some 1 t Columbus slipped out 1 between the pillars Into the theand thel l Western Ocean and t I turned his hi galley pile along the he toast out as tar far north as Cornwell where litre J E le to C traded trinket for tin with tM be h halt I savage vare I I F It U you ou cam to 10 Gibraltar via the At Atthe I IJ F t tI J I f f 1 t 1 I lantic your first rat glimpse of Spain wan Cape Trafalgar mado made historic by Lord Nelson On the tho opposite apposIte coast const tar for away auay to tho the right is Iii Cape this coast cout of ot Africa where Barbary n used to put up false fols beacons beacon to lure mariners to destruction The world worl Id lh growing crowing better now anti and and amI the United together maintain a n hugo revolving lighthouse of latest pattern on that rocky point whose alternate red arid and yellow glare linro has ha SIed many man ft n gallant ship from Davy Jones locker The rho great bay bayot of ot Gibraltar sweeps In horseshoe lash fash Ion from rein around tho time Kocic noC which thrusts Its lis embattled walla out Into tho the eta sta ta as lIB If It proudly conscious of power Tho The grim sentinel that guards tho the gateway to the Far I ar East bristled with cannon from top to too 00 One nt ef the greatest marvels of ot modern engineering are arc the time galleries as they are oro called hewn Into the tho solid rock whoso se fore fure Is honeycombed with opening for tho the mouths of ot cannon camien These numerous openings opening range rAnle In zig allt zag lines line all 1111 over tho ho taco faco of the cUrt cliff look so innocent nt from below that strati I I vv gers often otten Inquire if It they are not the nests of oC MA ten birds or the lairs of the monkeys It you ou sire are w so lucky ns RI to bo be escorted by a 1 soldier guIde uhle through h those gal galleries leeks you find that just jut back of oC cadi earli seaward opening Is a tremendous tan ian fannon tannon iannon non all ready read for Cor Us Its It work wolie of ot destruction tion You are arc permitted to go only about half way to the top but that Is II quite enough for ones one endurance though the tho galleries wind on anti and on onas onas as III you OU may see Fee by Ly poking your head Iliad through a n casement for a n side aide and up upward ward view of similar holes that seem mem to have hue no end anti en 1 No Nt other place In the world U II 1 so strongly fortified One would think that nature had hid done dOM enough In that line but science Clen has made inside It Absolutely Impregnable ll 11 Ita velin curtain and rampart blend and mingle with lIh natures barriers Below Dolo the tho tunnels whose embrasures be belonging belonging longing to 10 the batteries command d the entire Spanish S frontier are arc other for called lower line reputed to 10 be the strongest tron est and most scientific of oC all Mystery 1 enshrouds this place Its It secrets secret being known only to a few of the highest officials and its galleries are never shown to strangers In the lower tort fort are lite guns so big each Mch welCh weigh weighing ing one hundred ton tOM one that they have ban i ito to be manipulated by machinery run runby runby i by steam It U costs England something over a million dollars a year ear to main maintain maintaIn tain this garrison but It II Is worth orth It ft Barrack are scattered alt all over fiver the and everywhere the red r coats ceat nr of n the CIG o British soldiers are am heh In tn evidence stalking about sin singly singly gly 11 In tn pairs In groups roup at guard mounting target practice company or ar battalion drill as it they owned the he earth anti and anI meant to l keep r it tL it Palma f end ml 1 ai au th the Me ot of f time the ion n n conceal eo 11 the th connect cannon that lIat I mm th the water lea isa walls wads na j line lino the It strand heavy hur eavy bet bat f teries terl s Fragments ot of tho the old ohl Moorish walls wails aro icon scon parapets surmounted by tho finest rifled guns batteries min mingled with villas III all gardens And stunted and ond yet et higher up tip on onan onan onan an Inclined plane plant a bright ht green par parade parade parado ade ado ground slotted dotted with scarlet carlst coats which lends lend a n brilliant bit of color to the perpendicular block black cliffs cUlls below The houses are square and severely plain nil all built of stone atone with ered Ored verandas that almost meet across norMs the precipitous streets No wood Is allowed In their construction for f tear fear ar arof of ot fires and nil all tho the buildings ore are painted drab or with an on occasional one ono to break brenk the tho i monotony Sheer Sh r from trout the verdure clad slope behind the town tho naked rock rack rears ream Its rU d outline to tb list signal station on top r Is n a 1 slight depression lon in the tho center of ot the ridge and upon Its seaward huge bald knob of gray gra stone ston Is ts perched a n powerful searchlight which sweeps nil all parts ports of ot the harbor with tho the beam hoam of nt Its It Immense eye and In Inthe Inthe the tue trail of ot Its white glare every yes Yea vessel sel smi stands out In bold relief at dark darkest est cat midnight h Your steamer anchored off ort Devils Devil Tongue a land battery projecting Into the thu harbor at the north northern northern ern em end dad nd of th the rock roc It is II Instantly In sur surrounded surrounded rounded by small boats bonts that warm out outto outto outto to convey passengers ashore for tor n a 1 lib liberal eral consideration A multitude of guides como come on deck offering their ser fier services services vices to show how you ou round and It Is wise to secure ono one If it merely as os a 1 tImo saver saNer unless you Intend to spend pend some Rome weeks In tn I wish I could send you a portrait of the tho tall Span A A J I r V W V VV WV WV ri V W Yew V T I r VV I T TIT IT J JI I f 4 ft A ASIR ct I Ij II j I J IJ I s t I k ks t 4 1 i 4 t tt t t 5 1 Th I I II IA II It It Il IiA t I 5 II 4 A 1 I 0 4 4 b raa t 5 I 4 4 C J I A c I Is s I s I 11 rn p I t f Lc I l IL J 0 t SIR THOMAS LiPTON UPTON AND TUB THE AMERICAS CUP CliP FOR WHICH III 1113 WANTS TO COMPETE A THIRD TIME lard who Is the lie best guide of ot nil all so 0 that you OU might secure him wh when h n you OU visit this place lie He was the Ferguson on of at Mark lark Twains party and today exhibits with pride bride a funny tunny certificate of oC recommendation from the tho genial humorist t to whom it may con eons concern conC corn cern C rn Of course lour Ferguson Is not his name but was wn bestowed for tor short by Twain who could not lot pronounce his Spanish cognomen JANNIE U n WARD WAnD I |
