| Show r LISBON TIlE ROYAL CITY e ec c a u u u u u u w w I Special Corr nce Lisbon Portugal D Dee D 9 I traveler whale first ImpressIOn ot of the tho lJ ju Portuguese capital Is gaIned from n a aview VIew of Its straggling and shabby back Iv V down through the coun M 1 try by rail as we n a tre tremendous tremendous mistake which nothing can rectify but but n a special trIp to the tho ocean and return by the river route Nule Ap Apt t t by the orthodox way Va I 1 the Atlantic nine mites miles up tile the tagus fagus ah as known to Its citizens ranks third In beauty ot of lo 0 among tail ull cities of and Const Constantinople second The I hl high h rocky banks of the tue d p but nar narrow narrow row channel are arc lined on both sides with antiquated torts forts and lighthouses from San Drugo Brugo and San nt at opposite ends or of the bar the rl rIv ft t ers mouth to the mighty might Tower ot of Dc Be lern lem nine miles above which sinco the tho contu has stood guard over the royal city On either hand are gay Itt Ite resorts and bathing Coney Island Atlantic CIt City and Point Comfort of 1 royal palaces and villas lIIas ot of the surrounded b by tr trees s and gardens fishermens hamlets and ash ashI I Ion able s suburbs beyond nil all tIl th Yo vo granite range of at the Cr ira mountains On the north bunk bank nine miles above the ocean and Just Where the river broadens Into It a are I re v tim LAIn T ItI 1 I 0 j jI I tile old earll earliest t name was wasI I I ld to have hae been rounded founded a Oh I b by of the Golden FJ I Ian an the Julia Julin of the Ho How Iu w v of at the to ta the Lisbon of over oer more hills than Home sat lint upon rising fO 10 abruptly abrupt from tho waters edge edlo In the b 11 of at Oil an Faced by tc it quays and by loft lofty mountains v It i stretches along tour or five fie fieS S I mile und and Straggles s backward or rath II 1 er upward an equal scattered It among fields and gardens In tile the rear o 0 The lake or bay or estuary estuar as 49 you youk OU k It may Inay choose to can call the broadening of ofU U o the river Is crodell with the ships or of II 11 All nations among a multitude of Ir Iro o 0 Portugal with n a poi pOl It II approximating has still c no mean commerce thoUgh In the even evol v In Ing of her days day how Itow shall ono one des C cribe the bewildering varIety or of C es and conventS convent and S Roman Homan Flemish and andI I Mongrel of t hues ot of the house walls rods reds E a bues sr greens ens purples anti and yellows a aj aj j rIot of colors In mosaic yet et nil all allt t In perfect harmony with the spirit or of I the place There Is n a great ensUe castle or of oft t Soa oa Jorge Jore on Its rocky height In the theol thet t ol oldest est of the tho old old city which still retains Its Moorish name of Al AI I tama ama there Is the tho Immense many towered royal abode Ajuda on another hilltop beyond Delem Intended for the I most splendid palace In Europe but un unfinIshed Unfinished finIshed for LACIC OF MONEY MONEZ though begun generations ago nto Among ti It g dozen other residents or of capricious Is the an tin tinI I posing structure In whIch the meet meetIng meetIngs I Ings Ing ot of the Cortez are held And nd then the multitudes ot of great gra gray cathedral on the green slope of the tho Church ot of Martyrs N tho spot where Alfonso I mounted the city walls and rescued It fr from the Moors the antique church do Coracao do Jesus on the Hill of the Star the handsome churches of at monasteries that crown the hills like t medIeval fortresses as In tru truth th tho they I were vere times Omes lost past and dominating I all the great square of at Delem You are aro landed In front of one of the largest and handsomest parks In do which is III open to the river on the south and surrounded on Ute the other three sides aides by spacious arcades behInd which arc aro government o and the tho custom house In the center centor of the square stands 1 a fine bronze statue of King KIne Jono Joao I and at the middle ot of the north northside northside side nn an Im Imposing triumphal marks the beginning of the he principal street N a century and a half azo alo In 1776 was benefited by and appalling earthquake that shook down ot of the tho city and burled burIed sixty thousand people be the tho bless blessIng In In terrible the great which t resulted In the build In or of a neVo nev Chi cago The that the I earthquake remains as In the dawn ot of with dark narrow and tor tortuous tortuouS alleys whose Vh e eaves and crumbling almost touch overhead but the reconstructed see sec tion has wide straIght streets lighted by gas gLI and lined wIth buildIngs Though the tho population of Lisbon Is a 11 little less than J I every evet house seems literally swarming with Inmates and you mar nar marvol narel vol el It at the size Portuguese of families until you ou kern that each tall build building In Is dIvided Into for tor the dation datin ot of several ram famIlies Illes While the tho thoI patriarchal system prevails M as In many manyI I I 1 parts of sons son and daugh daughters f ot of successive I OE S I and remaining under the paternal roof I 5 her ho Portuguese nabob Is rich Indeed vho spreads his wes Lares and ver re ilian one or of apartments Pot une floor under the triumphal arch archand archand and UD the wide street you ou como came to another handsome tho Praco ilo do Dom Pedro Primero In earlier days the palace ot of tho Inquisition stood here hare and those gloomy prisons from hundreds ot of previously previous tortured went forth to their tos One side of It Is I occupied b by the theater of Dounn Maria Marla ilan Immense A A AAA w I buIldIng but the smallest of seven In Inthis this capital Which Is handsomest the ODera House the Can Carlos Theater or that t ot of Donna Amalia Amaila is III a matter of fancy In Inthe Inthe the foyer foer of at the last named splendid theater stands ISlands a celebrated work of at art the or of nor for dallo dalio n vase Ile named with Its beautiful glazed relief relict carvings Ino of the largest dos daB Terms In the orld disgraces Lisbon wIth star per por very flay day In the year nut flut In injustice justice be It salt Raid that the Is lz br no means menns so brutal ns that ot of Spain or oven oon or of Cuba and MexIco on oil our iida Ide of the tho world here Bero the tho poor bewildered bull lIM hM lees hess tor lt than elsewhere his horns hem blunted nut covered but buthe buthe he II Is seldom killed or wound od cd Though the tho American spectator longs to see eco the tho AL TORMENTORS TOnS ot of defenseless animals receive the tho pun punIshment deserve his Interest cen centers chiefly In the tho stirrIng music the tho thet t excited populace filling the enormous ot of the arena orena and the beautiful ga costumes ot of the and picadores the abovementioned the tho Garden Gorden and the rho terraces of the Es fin da Louis there thero are five IJ malier r pUblic gardens nil ull much frequented b crowds In Inthe lh the The dark little shops of at LIsbon with their scanty dIsplay of poor gds are ot worth a always the tho goldsmiths shops with their ru queer er native nathe ornaments Ies fan ticks etc In work the tho s where rare ar tides m may Y occasionally bo be round found among 1 a world of trash and the tho pawnshops filled to over oer overflowing flowing with the heirlooms or of an Impoverished nobility The markets are more with their ml many ny van ot of fish and fruits golden oranges and luscIous grapes ot of which you OU mo may bu buy more than you can carry for tor mil mit to tile the value alue of af nn an AmerIcan nickel count country produce tat fat beef und and mutton from rota the Dour Douro valley alle and especially the tho always picturesque peasantry In their characteristic costumes The hotels ot of Lisbon are arc poor as poor eat but so 50 beautifully are Arc the people that the with a 11 lot let letter lotter ter of Introduction or with a shadow of at claim upon anybody d Is sure lure or of most gracious entertainment In honsell The Tho large English colony lives In the elevated district known as Buenos Ayres Ayree while Portuguese arts aris are mostly found In the vicin It IW of the juda Ajuda palace e the fashion fashionable able suburbs ot of Alcantara end and and along the sunny s overlook I log Tagus bay Of course the capital Is the headquarters of at the royal army armr and barracks for tor the troupe and mu municipal guards are sCAtter scattered d nil all over the elt city The undersized hun Ing soldIers remind ono one or of Cuba In war ar only Ire are more gorgeously Ir if not better red fed than were the Spanish army In the tho W West t The chief naval Mal and ARSENALS AIs of the kingdom are arc also here and at mch inched to the former fanner art are a naval school not unlike our Annapolis an hydro AA A A A A A A grAphical and n a very vcr er of colonial products Among Inon historic landmarks which the visitor In J must not omit Is the ancient do dolI lI mCl whIch contains the mag marble tombs tomb of Vasco tie dla Gama am the tho great Portuguese gueso guese historian Alexandre Equally Important Is the old convent of at St VIncent hIgh up on a 11 bill over Oer overlooking looking the ta shores ot of the Tagus which hns been transformed Into Pantheon a c royal tombs tomba Then there Is the Monserrate when the poet Byron Used to live whIch Is no now the wInter home ot of Cook VIII Is countess counters d do Montserrat or of London Peo People lo on our side aide of at the remember the lad lady ns as ronnie damn formerly or of NeW e York Ills sister tor of Vie tam both famous apostles of female suffrage On One never neer wearies ot of the views above rIver runnIng through n a semitropic pun parr dl disc the tho stately and historic mon menta of antiquity amid endless cola colo I nies of palaces villas and luxuriant gardens garden Into the latest royal palace with Its pInnacles domes lomes abd terraces was incorporated a fifteenth century convent conent whIch for tor two hundred years stood alone alono on Pina mountain The heal another royal Was built by Ferdinand of at Coburg upon tilt the ruins of the ancIent Castilio do Mouros castio ot of the dead The AA I royal palace c of Cintra ta erected by y John JohnI o oI I In the fourteenth century was built upon the ruins of II a Moorish castle by workmen In h style But Dut among Imong all the remarkable specimens of 01 ancIent and modern In the tho Portuguese capital none Is a really greater work than the aqueduct which brings water to the city from Belles nellas village twelve miles ala away It Is partly conducted under underground ground but In the vicinity of at LIsbon crosses a deep which Is spanned for Marl nearly three thousand feet teet by a abridge bridge e or of thirty arches the loWest loftiest of which is 18 feet reet high and feet reet wide In the das Is a tuge reservoir for tor supplyIng the man many toun foun tame or of the Ule city with water FANNIE D 13 WARD |
