| Show Ual emais UfaI deriI st ODD INOIUISNT8 OK KOKISIOX TKAVISU AND OBSICKVAHON t LONDON June 19 idaj There U no place In England w lute ouch a fine example ex-ample ol the very ancient itonebuilt I village may be found a < at llronlway the Ilraclwcln of 500 exn ngo which nMllcs Kgnmi the lower dope of the northwestern face ol the CotinoUt lllllj overlooking the lovely vale of Hvwhmi The manyxableil Iygon Arms a dclldou retort for Anictlcani and nnjllih artUli and nlhcr Rcnumo cplcurn for food scenery and charming charm-ing intlqulliei U I the molt ancient of all the structure of the slumberous old l mountain town The precise ttrucuirc stuncllnR here today U known to have been occupied aeon Inn for upwards 500 earn It Is charmingly plcturevjue without and Interior Is most quaintly arranged with odd nook and comer while the a Tint floor of the east wing has n fine old room with a cutlotiily dived chimney piece In stone other InterestIng Interest-Ing ornamentation nnd a wondrous t lot of charming traditions about the great lolL ionic on tloperale business like Charles 1 In 16S and Cromwell 61 In I6l who have lodged 1 within It llroulway ItMir Is the luectest old English pjjtoril vllltge Idyl I to be found In Knglaml and to me thin ancient hostelry with Its Tudor chlni II ne > > III many Rablm and dormer Intone In-tone and Iron finials mulllnnid uln down and baa IU fine old InglM and fireplaces with Its Mono walls thick 1 I m n fortsnuijpd l I with crcepeiii and vine ls I Its warmest and mclloueti paie 1 I I flie old 1 cnlhcdral city of Gloucester possesses several eiy ancient Inns which Die still In use two of which me regarded as among the moot interest InC slthll of the place by all foruien tMVctcr One of thc the New Inn If I an cxlraorclitmy relic of very ancient time and deeply Inicientlng from Its greet age Its hltlurlcit auociitlons and its extremely picturesque character Us architecture hating many features in common with the hot er and dhilncily Moresque Inns uf Span rR 1ortugal I Kcnacrsol history will recall that the I I tnkndid tutilh aide of Gloucester niagnlhcent alhcdrtl was built In too h > Abbott nokty 1 during the period ol whine nbbtcy tlw body ol murdered King I dward I II which hvl 1 been re weal l Interment In the nbhe > i of Mal l I mttbury KhiRswiiod and llrlstol was I given burial within It Great pilgrim ogre to Edu I Ard < tomb and wonder r nI1 fully increased rctenuei to the then abbey church resulted The Ihron sera s-era 10Illellll enormous that the city could not shelter them nnd they were obliged to encamp nl night out tide the gates t A shrewd old monk mined Juhn rurnlus taking = proper advantage uf the million In 1450 under the abbac and with tile unction and assistance of Hie fimous abbot Thomas henbroke built the New Inn ro > Jt = will tli nt the time douhtte had no superior at a public hostelry In Europe TtilnU I of taking your CAM in your Inn as you can du In tho New Inn of Gloucester I today In ft tavern I which has survved llhe change of 4i > eon and never been closed it Jai The niulnt old place Is to cnnninsl hIJ IIoWI II I r J oWInN hidden behind the grim walls of North guild street lint the casual I Ktranler not haxlnglt In I dual quest would be fortunate for-tunate enough Indeed If lib glance penetrated the deep lark ntclm ly separating It from tho street Anti fell upon the charming = old world scene within I can octet forget my own experience when wlwlly Ignorint I of the spot and of nil of dear old iloucen let for that matter I had como niter a wearisome tramp dVin the Malt ern Hills nnd without object or purpose was leaning against the corner of this sumo dark archway for a bit of rest Turning ins tagrant way to depart a coaching arty dashed 1 gaily past me fl through the archway My c > es followed fol-lowed the catalcade and then my legs followed I lsil my gladdening eyes Wnal an exquisite pleasure was in that sense of original discomy of a place so pictureifUe and old How hcsi tangy I tiptoed about dihltofie and ancient courtyard feasting on this and that like a covetous Intruder and when I found these were nnbodys picture for the reckoning nf even three penny rk tn tnvt worth of entertainment with what i I delight did 1 luxuriate I at the bow window ol the fine old I coffee room ordering this and that which 1 did not want nnd tipping the wilier 10 Immoderately I Im-moderately that he lent another and that one nnothtr but taxing Ihem nil with questions no that they tailed between answcri nnd Inull wound up b > settling nn advance score which removed lu nl doubt of rcIw nib iht Y If not of sanity while ordering m > luggage le the qualnest old room wltn the lo < Uicily of n biidegroom nnd the bravery Of A lord I Around entire three itoriea nf the Inner court which Is very spacious run galleries upon which verr the dormitories dormi-tories open precisely ns with the Spanish jutlo or court while the half alum of the peaked roof is I broken Into dormers hooded with pretty tiling and their facet set like the border of I All old womans cap with simple but wondrous umamcmnllon Thu most picturesque of old ttalri and landings lead from ono story to the other huge I Iron ornamentations many cast with HI red emblems In manr Its orlglnil pilgrim character arc found promiscuous ly attained the doors windows and ceilings angle and bow < Diamond shaped panel In leaden frames Are common atement and little I swing log windows are etciywherc throughout through-out the itiliclurc NVhcs for clhgiea and carved crosses hue not > ct been I hidden by time and change Opposite the strict archway Is I nn other lesser but picturesque nrthwi with the entire facade of the rear side of the quadrangle above showing ni I quiint mid dreamful n scene of rest lulnesi And nmlqully as can bo found n In I uroiie Through this U reached the stable yard now mulcted to ac comtmulation or sixty hones In oilcn hiss could cne fir hundred ol animals at folk ol laity i in the lime ot the King Edwltl I pilgnmiges Intarnbl came on horseback I very thlng = nbout the New Inn is I queer and quaint and old Never elsewhere was leen luch n radiant jumble of odd I corners cor-ners little arches protruding unpcr stories peephole of windows gables offices Wtlm taprooms nnd wealth of vine and folltge and grave unctuous waiteis nod chubby cheeked Mullen I maids housemaids and barmaids la heighten tiie tnysterlesihecr and charm of tlie typical i I old r Inellsli inn Dead old Howes in northern Yolk I uhlre alongside what was called thor Grat North Road possinset one ol I the finest spedmeni of the ample roadside road-side inns ol the olden i on lung days 1 to be found In nil Holland Tllo I village and tide Inn have nluoys had for me the weirdest fascination ul any provincial pot III llrltaln though twin hamlet and Inn are now dreary and desolate beyond detqrlpt > n The I old Inn here now called the Unicorn was first known ns the George night coaches bound ilther tu London or Glasgow dilly dunged horses in Its great > aid in the good old coaching days It Is I to thi Inn that Chailn Dukens with n grent nnd nn timid motive In hymn repaired with his friend and companion Ihdilot llrome n few weeks More Chrlitmns of IK57 where the two remained while Ditkint secured makriil for Nicholas ickle by lie had tellers lo n yeoman of the place soon to shine ns one of the nn mortal of fiction us honest John llruwdle lie represented hlmsvll ns agent of a > oor widow desirous I ol i placing her only boy his quiet country t Khool In tins way he seemed nd inivtionto n numlwr m the vicinity though abut out of some by the wary masters Die school seeming most 1 suitable as a prototype ol them nil from the personnel uf its invage uvtner and his ram ly with wild and desolate physical surroundings in kmplng with 1 rla cll felnr hopelessness of the school tile of r too place I self was the Dotheuujs Hall still standing in Howes l hardly a stone throw from the ante I I Unicorn Inn the ol house being nuw etcu led by old man lloisfield husband uf the erit able Siuecrs daughter fanny Squeer known In life as Mary Ann Miaw where tege In misery Nicholas i the Nlckleln wretched I Smile and scores of other helpless young lives are depicted as having undergone an almost oncelvabla life of sir nude starvation nod cruelty Imcttigntlons showed tint the horrible hor-rible I picture drawn l was not an exag germ tl a nod bore out l Dickens own statement In the original preface lint Mr Sqller and his school ore elnl and I feeble pictures I of nn oxlillng real rlI I II its purposely subdued I i rind kept down lest they should be deemed Impoi lible This Dickens l second and In canto respects till greatest novel was begun In April iBj8 and finished In I Utubertew At the appearance I of the first part he ran nway run London Lon-don ni he always did to rcnnln in hiding i until n distinct I measure ol pub he favor or di t fa > or wan shown In the case of Nicliolas MikV his forgivibte skulking was of short dura lion Fne Brat doyo sale ol the Bret part exceeded I il sown copies Not ale I months had pi 1 red before the torture and cruiliy uf helpless schohrH In these remote prison pens were abated nod before the list chapter of Mclio 10 T s hat Nlckleby had been read public feeling which In many portions < f the I country hardy escaped expi ision In riot had nnnlhllitetl every Ihlhl hull land uf tho Uothiboys Hill vanity in ling I If J you came from London to dories over the sAme coach ruad as did Nicholas I Nicklebt when nesting the end of his dreary jjurney at nlwut 6 clock that mint he and Mr Squecra and 1 the little 1 bois and their united luggage Over put down at Die George and New Inn you would hAve rue by the old coach road from London lo rdlnburgh and Won uoA nll f On leaving tit ancient city of York you would hae struck Into n hlghwiy I looo > an oil Masses ot Konnn legions lime swept tide on tide bask and forth over the same stune road Stern A rlcola the courtly lailtusiml Emperor bervlui hlmsrll havi 1 ridden towards the unconquerable North upon It Plio latter left joooo of IMS army dead among the Scotch mUt and moon sin and with his lace u towards Rate and home only reach of York to die of his wound and chi gnu It Is the great Roman road of Par land Walling ur althhng Street It Is 1 called Away In the norm rt York shire A few miles above Ci tcrick llridge one stem of this luihway I goes II J IIIl II run on through Durham I and Northuniber t land and thence lo hntmrgh I The other swings around to tin westward trnterslng Westmoreland I III and Cumberland Cumber-land through Carlisle to Hi r great Ko man wall which on protected Drl aln from the Cnledom hordes and thence n a tore in > tern couch road winds through the Mien lovers haven drelna Green to i isgow On this 1 I western stem between the rivers Tees and Grela at the Ohlrn edge of Stanemoor nearly aiirrou i led by dose latu moors and In Ihe noithwot corner of Yorhshlie Ilea what n left of Ikiwn It is Ifllcutt I not lo wuulvr away from li I uo jt Irn a description of the old I iniorn Inn nt Howe nmong the literary and IInllluRr Un things of interest In us neighborhood neighbor-hood the Inn ItlII must not he confounded even under its old name of the George with the deorge Inn of Grela llrldgi six nuKs nearer ark note used as n corn mill lo disguise the exact location I of iJoheboy 1 Hall W tc kit ant made bqucers I ibhaw 1 twiel I w k-it h oung Nlckleby lhr c mllek from the eorge Inn at seta Un gc In the supposititious Hill lollocJ by the r r I What cartload of Infant misery lul they really did ilo was to dismount Ml together from the Turk and Carlisle coach within the Innyard of this serj Unicorn and then slmer along the crooked cobbled single < tre < t of Dow until they arrived nt the long cold looking = house n little way beyond tu the west and a lull lean boy poor bnnkel uithn intern I in his hand issued forth Ilia Unicorn which seems lo have completely escaped J the attention ol English antiquarians I and travelers Is not only remarkable from Us nasocln lions In lining been the most important Inn near the border between York and Ciluguw and dlnburgh I In olden times but In also being the largest of those ancient English road > lde hostelries still extant which wire called Into exlitenre by the necessitlet ur travel in the old coaching da > sAt s-At Its very door the K yil Mid i began the nscent over the Gr it North Rood I of weird dreary and east hunemoor peopled ll only rry wild and warlock silent ever cat e iron Ito ling tempests and with no lemblancc of liunnns whore ll save al Us desolate top where William the Conrgucrer anti Malcolm of Scotland fought dreadfully and long to ill udi the boundaries ot their retire tiv c 1 kingdoms and then wisely stopped and levied n ibly deciding tli it on the I cry ki > it should l be raised the great Itui i now Rr 1 cross or tross of kings on one nde l of which was grtn the Image of William and on the oilier that of Malcolm but lion years hoot eaten these old laces away and none others I r b1 null r K klJnSI wilt be seen until Kirkby Stephen nemllng in the valley on the oilier side towards nncient iti1I r Carlisle I i is reached all of which gave travelers cheer nt the Unicorn a special Scot not Unmixed with n tinge of dread Ito form Is I of A double quadrangle each fully 100 feet iqu re The one next Ihe street has its entire front penh to pen-h great Inn yorll thus I lornied The two side abutting i the street comprised respectively the Inn proper n long two storied and garreted I stone structure me a iierfecl mate rn curious old 1 rooms ippro cliej by nutlimlish stairs entries and landing mid tendered nd dllionally bewildering by countless niche cupboards alcove and blind panels and r the other n huge brew house with dotens of granaries and storerooms store-rooms behind llic aide opposite the street provided ollicc and sleeping accommodation fur guards past buys whips and all those lnnhelp concerned con-cerned working the couches ur dealing deal-ing with tho tired cattle of the many trnvelera oil horseback merchandise packers l and wagoners pnslng between ngland I and Scotland a century ago In till iiuadrangle are alms many open stone sheds w ith tiled mauls stone feedboxes feed-boxes and neat slanted robbleitone lloors where private vehicle and wagoners could find Itmporar shelter In great number and hi the center of this quadrangle set about wills stone I drinking troughs la the most tremendous i ancient pump I luvr found in ngland I > still creakingly sorting the scanty uses of the present ilafjcnrrate da > > The quadrangle shins the Inn yard is formed bv what remains of the ancient stone stables here scores of pain ol punt horse could have found comfortable comfor-table qu irters and ns many more alters and packers cattle have good shelter and care In the motel proper the huge old kitchen must hate quite equaled lIe famous ancient kill hn ul I old hi IAII Hall Coventry there are still tube I seen a half doien cnlfee and brcakfait I rooms low with deep j window seats quaint cupboards and odd old oak paneling where guests were served In 1 parties and 1 groups instead 1 of In n common com-mon hall there are tons and ton of I Kid In the roof gutter about the 1 window frame anti null hrmt > holding the ancient tiny pane of glass Little lrhrIJol 111 old iMilor I and silling rooms with 1 curious w Indows i and most ancient stucco work are still recognizable but Hunt Interesting ol all and Illustrating the customs of that early lime Is I n tiny taproom tap-room opening = Into the tear uf Ihe Inn yird It 1 has low oaken nettles built stationary Into will and lloor Us huge fireplace Is lull ol tiny cranes fur steaming keltic In one corner Is I nn oaken bed enclosed In A closet like frame where landlord or barman could not aly retire at night completely from sight but also lock himself In against uproar and disturbance distur-bance and the window to hula room Is a low portly bow In Ihe center ol which above a tiny tout nhelf Is a tingle hinged 1 pine Through I this the stablemen j stable-men hang on the late I night travelers travel-ers whu might be honest ur utlicrw ise were nerved with usqulnugh or n joram only after they had ilepoiitcd coin uf lliu real and 11110 latter had reached the huilul truasuiy n great buckskin bag rft within the dirk recesses of barman fortified bed A wondt rful old curio Is the Unicorn Billow nil unknown loth people of I I mlaml thcmsclv a Lke 1 the village I it is dead in Us shell Its oaken rim hl burs at plus in Ralelgtis I i old home at VOUKh sernt et crlaofinlt but lts mon log belfry us empty stables Its crumbling I 1r ling J duve rote i Is forlorn ol brew house Its I empty tap room Us grass grown inn yard and even its present occupancy by strange rrealurr hall ploughman 1 and half I schoolmaster i who stare listlessly I I up I and down mho Great North Road lor occasional victim In vvinderingbicjcllst less frequent literary tramp I or yokel 1 Irom the near fields all serve to empha Ie by contrast the cheer and stirring day tint once were here As every 7reOrelE wherein Inglnnd 1 along erfi grand 1 old highways where stand I the t crumbling monuments to the mellow coaching days there remains hut mournful silence where there u as an army of helpers I and j horsekcepers where the Iraw legged I pott boy In their high chokers high hats huge buttons and gorgeous nlnt ih li coats led live rn positive 1 renown where Ihe tinkle of harness brasses and clatter of hoof were endles where Rule llrllania from shrill keyed bugles enlivened the const ml departure nnd arrival of cuaches where the smart cry of first pair out I set the Ion yard and stables In high commotion and where through thr livelong day and night n great roadmde Inn like the Unlrurn was the brightest liveliest cheeriest most harum scitum anti delicious place tu IK found in all tho length and breadth 1 uf Merne nglm I I hiHiAK U 1 WAKKMAN I |
