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Show !WAKEMA'S WANDERING'S A COACHING TRIP IN THE ENGLISH CUrlsst rMts far EjsftnJ Ifssfl la tit La4'-rrom lUiwUk to VTIi..ltrtrs ICoprrUttt, 11, r Wnr I Wsksmso-1 WtTOiUiiftC, KngUnd, Msy 11 The conrtnttooi! trtp ukn through tbt UU district li t UbcT aftr trrlral l rJl t Iti southern t.M4qturtcr, Wlfwlsrawrt, hj couch north tbroutth th l.mtcf tbs re-ploa re-ploa to KMwick, or oa nrriril ljr rail at Kr.trick.oTfr tbi MmRMD4 LUh-wsr l toseh south to Wlmlrmiffra, Thus torn liti, nJ part lea It rlr Atnrrltn tourists, ho wish u mskt tl biliiMfcf tbefi boar, an oAblM to KrnrtiirpricooJ Rfttcralldfa of flift dlftrlcttOti'lrfrtalnl look ttpon that (vrttoo rlcbrt la imocUt-Ira imocUt-Ira Inl rnfr-wbtU tlslnit Its AdmI lake a, lovUst tatrt au 1 loftIet mountains bj ihV at Iaat tlirw dsji la adrancf, havi & for two fair brldwyunrow,anJ Lv priraUtr consult! with sllj olri , tnoJincAtloolbtlrtvrr unit goati! m to tb most favorsMo insssurv for vlcwlon the rf foo, you can sreurs your rat on tbc lux of tbs inott popular "tfolng out" coach at 9 la the mornfn.?. Urn ttrjr and ylims cl tdarptnalntlfr of tlis fart," whom you Ami rrrrwDt almost crrfr ctvllUdl nn Uo.iJil.tr, American urnl Or r man m dotal nation. If joq ask questions you will sta sfcurs tbe Isrjcrst tmrabrr of wMt trlocrU "oat-aod-oatrn" with which foul Tbe emtio tbrlll which accompanlea thli rtflccllon hna lately suWdnl whrn yoti hare puss! LrsuUful (Jret Ilrldgr, anl with aauiUrn torn to the right Iwitfn the loDit aacoot of Cutis Itlfis ' tbe moat wlD'Ha'cnefor 'om o' th stretch," thi drlrcr rtmarki la tbe tingle truthful stst Wfntyoti wlllrTlre all ih wajrto Wn derm re. Hut In this loo a, slow climb you pas Chestnut Hill. ar.us.nl littlr, crook! roof hou, with It liUtorto sycamore, rim . at)l t berry tre, where tit.tly brouttbt bit ' Mbooljflrl bride, and whirs thry chaei j eachotbrr like happy children about the flower bfJ, until tha stern Cutnbrlao land lord cbaaftllbtra both awiy, Aa tbt coach haltt at tbe top or Caitl Itl, ljmK fitaboTa Keswick, sraud anJJ-Mitlfai lndeel U that acenn Ublnd. The catlrt tale of I)e rwent U spread to rlew, lblidrantluit wayovrr Cattle Itlj U one of tbatwosreat brlcbta you will a Utn ty coach on your pletnant Jouraty, The other U at Dun mail lUlv, Jut befcre you paae Into Westmoreland. To your right tbe writ for your direction U nearly al ways due south from Keiwlck toWindrr lut-rt are tbe seemingly r ndlrsa fella, odor oua with the budding heath, aud hen atid there a mass of color from hanks of Tlo-j lets. la front the wide, smooth mountain mount-ain road winds Letweeu overhauulnjt Hch eawl rocks, spans shadowy dlngta, and at Its apparent end seems to drop sheer Into a meAkurslMuseitof blue. Hut now to the' caldron, t bo sli;bt dufeudi, an 1 attempts to penctrau the Alms ot mist. Mornlntt U late lu reaching bt. John'a vale. Tbe niUt breaks abort In feathery rlfu where the raysof theeatern aun filter through. In flinty streams of mid. Half dUclowd l Llnd tbrm an the dark gray outlines of tbt mighty craft. Cattle Hock. You cannot set It clearly, hut Scott has so nobly de ac rlbed It la "The llrldat of Trlortualo," VTIcktt of oak, at Iron har!, itts irua ModJedfCllacboit and barred, A&J proDgd portcullis, Juln'd to guard Tbe slwmj pmu Ulow, that you ceM no better view. Abort this, almost on a lerel with your coarh, which Is Jtit beginning tbt long southern descent of Catlt Hlgg, lies a huge moTlng cloud. It Is slowly parsing down theralley. Sad leuly you rtallxo you art abort tbt clouds, for Met tbt bt riding llgel"'ls chorned by many of your com panlona. There It lies, this grim, yellowy black and curved rldgt of llelvrllyn, ma lostla monsrrh of all this grand lakt rrglon. It seems acroM that clou 1 to U tbe mighty tnural walla of aoint weird Isle, unattaln kbit beyond a sea of mountainous wares. A curve In the road for a few momenta 1 Idea cloud and tnouutalu top. hen llelveltyu agnln appears the cloud hn-i and there elands the grand old mountain) forest hnng at lu ba, cleft and senrrrd above, sUUblgherstrliwd here and then with far drscmdlitg torrents, like mighty Ilumes In white, and lu broken summit and "Striding rlgo" ahowlog thousands of blackened almcwt vertical furrows lu tbo eternal stone of Iti jaks and rldgra. Hut )ou tiow havo something to U ! sides gnuonllelTrllyn. our coach Is dfl. K-endlug tbe muuntaln at tnmriidoiis speed. Tbt wheel horsm are at their bet luK,lnntrot,and tbt lender aro fairly at tauter. The skids smoka at tho whwl. .ManyaQol hWa ml"li ejaciilatdl by old travelers. Th laillea stifle little shrieks alarming ' Ouches!1 Ibe guard blon s his lurches and ricochets, ovrr a good two miles descent, dona In lesstban seven mln utes,tht foaming horMs, tbt tr-.ikytU-cloudvd coach and gsnplng pawngers come to a gntefitl ttantUtlll at tbt lClng'a Head Inn, '1 MrUpot, hard by the aborts of lbs Inn Is for those who with to stretch their lrgs and waU the mouutatn du.t from tbelr throat with luouutalu dew. loureraaJa In your high sat there, for this valley and Its mountain shirt I avt hokta of nmry wraitha for the few mlit uut In which they may npprar, Just lw frt you Is Dalebead Hall, cure full of bouthey'a mirth and Wurdswortli'a riukt vtsdom. lWldelt Dalebead meadows, lu yblch otct htoo-1 tliea f.mcu InnKjfall AcroM Ihlrlmert Is ancient haunted Armbothhall. Vou puM in your mud fll0p d,)W" tU raoiiataln slda ITshtr I'lsc., whora Itossettt, at death's door, read tbe lut proofs of his w Hd, melMlous sou Jitts. luthtrightU tbe pony path lea 1 louca r l0 7lUuJU1' wtndlath. and Ui-slgnatlon." All this vaUoMVords' William Word.wortb, Uorothy, hLi'faTth n?trt Xv? "wicuu'wn, afterward Lhhoblalb,A,iwu. laylor VuUrUX, J.S.ilw.tJf !ttlr owa LnJ- M ' It iLA ''A to.ll0 u?nh h " Ul ' 11 .3lm u',l'ni,IioUt,uM"liik. In Wa nu ww tttui tsaiiuuloSi u, i! MM ffk tbe places f ho notes of Cb roach norn flood the valley. t)n. on )ou spceil, scaring tbeaandpltwrs Into the rushc and reeds, andtlierii i(onels skint Siamperlngly to tbt farther sliadowy shore through tbt valley, past sleeping Thirlmerr; up putt little wytbeborn church, not aa big as Jour owo parlor, and the second smallest icmwiottJod In Hrltalnj nd then tip, up agtln, as ovrr Cattle Hlgg, to weird old Dunmall Hle Here a nartlng look U had at grim llelvrllyn, and the eye linger lovingly on lit patt blwa of St, John'a vale below the deeper buof far llltocathra, tht whole a mlnlaturt Imsgt of tbt pass of Uiuterbrunnen. Its re, too. Is that north em curio of tbt antiquarians, tbt ltalst It self. It Is a bug cairn of pebbles. Tradition Tradi-tion ssyt the cairn was made our .,) years ago, on tbt defeat and slaughter of liar mail klngof Cumbria, In tht year IMX i Dunn ail J dominion wera given to Kin i Mai -olm of cutbind, and the cairn was I left to mark tho boundary of tht two king ! dum . as It today forms tht boundaty of thteMrcs of Cumherlsnd and Westmoreland. Westmore-land. Into tht latttr And another tobls 1 mountain flanked vntley your coach honr plunges wltb smoking horsea and wict. 1 Comprthenslvelr spoaklng, It Is all tha 1 Valaofllotnay Toth-fHt tho rytscai.a , tht sides and heights of Fa I mold, UM I Screes and VsoMI, with tht far rldses of lllgbhtrortand Klrkstone behind, lotht weit rlsejn weird and precipitous jiimvi tht savage pikes of Ixing late, and CrlnMt Crags and ethstlam with their sunshiny 1 conesareseen In tht fsraouth. ItenrAth you ts tho fair and pencrful vail, with gray old (Irasmsre, by Ita siuaro cburrh tower, asleep beside tht peaceful waters of Its beauteous lakt sti hit mlty, beauty, pesro everywhrrt blended as It by n tuagls wand. rVa to Ibt right that ancient mill wheel Alport It rlrs mighty Helm Crag, Ita crowning majotle piles of Hone, rrr fairy woman, cowled priest, threatening: demon, or my I tad chtnglng other forms from poets' days to Druid times of ol L Stone Arthur, Tbt lut that parleys with tht itttlsj sua, frown opposite, Vouruth by Swan Inn, wbenct Wonliwortb, Sontbey and bcott left on their onle for Hehrllyn's aint, and here there art still delicious legends of how Scott cnintbnckof evening after XNordiworth was safely snoring al Uraa mere, to mix the lakt water with a few drops of John llsrlrycorn. As yoti crash across I lot bay's bridge your eyt follows tbe spumo and foam of Four Milk Ohyll, and yoar thought leaps to tbt farthest dfth of Ea-Iale, which VordwnrtU haunted and vowk! was all his own. Aui here. Just by tht northern edge &f (Iras-mere (Iras-mere village, Is AU-n Hank Volumes could bt written upon Its inrtnortr-for It 1 Alteo Hank where Wordsworth wrott tnoslof tht "Excursion," wherIe(Jiilncey and "Chrtitopher North' flrt nut, aud wbert Coleridge wrote tbt ,Frletid.M Hut hers Is firnsmrrt (Irosmrro of ancient an-cient "llusbbrarlng famej (Irasmertwltb perhaps tbt oldest and cert tlntythtqutlnt' est church In Kngland, (Iratmerr, wbert t bt brave ol 1 damo soundly walIojed tht 1'rlnca of Wales for "harrying' her sheep; (Irasmerr, wbert Da Qulncey for thirty-seven thirty-seven years retained his Dove CotUgd and Ita mate of books that All tho other writers borrowed and never brought txtck, niid wbrretheangel Margaret fought the demon opium, and rescued that wondrous Intellect aud tout from luconcclvablt bell of tor meiitt Umsmere, where In ol 1 bu Otwnld'a , churcbrard sWp Hartley Culerldgt and William Wonlaviortbt and the Iwauteou 1 tot hay, leaping from wvir.terlog mead owe, glvra Iwck along thtold church wall the dialhlcss songs they sung. Tbe heart swells an 1 the eyes fill quickly bert, ami you art glad tbt fresh relay of horse apedi you so aa-(tly away. Tbe rend lies along tht shores of Grasmere. To tht west are mountains, mountains everywhere. Half way around the but of hold Whltt Mo, high abgrt your brad, I the'UlibIng (late," famous In romance and song. Turning sharply U tbt left, little Uydal Water, a speck of blut In a now almoat level valley, Is before you. In that cottagt to tht left lives a granddaughter of WonU worth. Swinging tuto tbt north anil south highway at spanking tcd, you come alongside a tiny cottagt Imlmtdnl In Ivy. Nah Scar rises btuh behind It, Ilka the fir huug Mil behind tht Alcott cottagt at Concord. It Is Nab Cottage, ami was built nwirty tbrvt hundred years ago. lu It loyal .Margnrrl bltupsou, afterward wife of I)t Qulacey, was Iwrn, and under lu slates and It lea Hartley Culerldgt lived mud breathed bis latt. You can scarcely recall tLest things before be-fore )ou are (uustng Itydtl. Jutlaglimpse cf tht little church Is seco.sodenstlstht foliage here. Hut you know that up thert at the vul of that shadowy way, to tht right I Uptsndld ltydal Hall, to tht left ltydal Mount, where Wonlsworth live I fur forty bllstful years, aud that tbt melodies ot tht Hyd il waterfalls am Just behind. From Jtydal through Ambttilde to Windermere Win-dermere Is ont ma I ruh of your coach, meetlugAiidpiuuIug coach And vehicle of errrydiAcrlptlon, tourlitsof every nationality nation-ality In every pleaiant means of volng and ivimlng, and altogether out wild whirl of entrancing asinrlallre Interest, Hire 1 Lllerny, sentlnetod by lu giant sj minors and rife with memories of I'rofcMor Wll son. There li Fox How, wliero llrwl noble Hr.ArnolL Hchlnd that mua of bnch and biuret llred Harriet Martlneau, an 1 the sun dial on the fragrant terrace still bear tbe Inscriptive echo of her lofty, lift long soul's deitrc, 'Come, light, llt met ' Amblrsllt, hituntnl by the wraiths of all these folk And hid ten Inlts mats of follaga and bloom. Is wblikfl UhliuL And then through au atmott unbroken Avenue of beeches And sjcamore ou art whirled along out of tht grandest road In Kngland, Kng-land, with swift glliupws to right and left of mountain, vale, lakt andStrttint of cut-t cut-t ige, hsll ami hotel fid, until, with aching U nra, whirling head, hungry stomach and I.Mit a thrill for lu royal stirring, your coach 1 brought up with a rrabaudA Ung in front of Johu Hlgg' famous Win drrmere hoHtelry. Tha grateful odors of I rolling ch ir (slmo.t as ravlihlng na thewt bt Thompson's OIoucckter"ptankclshnll") Mcend to your eager uottrlls, an 1 before Jour eye lies ont ot the sv. citp.t scene on trarth trnntcriidant Windermere, QUetn of all tht Umbrlao lakes, dotted Mlth dream ful sails, aud from her silvery shores, up-leadlugthtgladdoulngvUlon up-leadlugthtgladdoulngvUlon to meiuurf less masses of mouuUlns swathed In emerald em-erald nnl purplt an I crownod wlthsuu klwed klorlrs. to the high, farhorliou line, that hlntsot Lut repels tha teupesu of the Ihuudcrous Irish sex tiMAIlX WikCMAX. |
