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Show j j ' ' '"' ' SSI 1 iH ,B" ' .fife... .Wimfe&Wlt4HiW' ri tev sssf m Mi I Mir- ?SS By LADY DUFF GORDON ("Lucile") bwiS v13 o tho mont c1111111"2 act" : is ; v J rc3SC3 or hom 1 fur' iDjfi'S - nlshed wardrobes is Mius . eflfc'S BUlIo Burko, the little coBiiiopolituu looks ln ii8hiona of any cUme or tIrae- ! i cWF, ' uibb BuftQ im3 the cliic most de- B 8lrei by Pariaiennes and all well- W1 dreEEed women. She bus Titian hair, bIuB eyes and fair, rony skin that 15 ,ead themselves to nearly any color. , id tkjj j She is, Indeed, a most satisfactory' H 1 llLtle Person to dress, knowing as J 1XQ dileB what Hbe wants' aud belng '3 amiabillty and gratitude theniBelvos rLd . lfc waa a pleaauro to supply her a,Bd : ?1Ul the uiarL costumes she wears P14 it" : in her latest Guceeos "The 'Mind the ereC U . iaf Girl," Her entrance gown, the caU5'1 ' filrIiBn afteraoon costume which Bho V1 ti f been wearing ivbile Bho posed id i tor ber luieaL portrait, is one of the itf"1 J?03t attractive o her robes. Its i Iz-B are of the alralgbt, shoulder ifli fjl u 0 honi Bort. tbat give added girl-ttdt, girl-ttdt, f iBhneus to a girlish figure, and sub-,j sub-,j tract yearB from a matronly one. m i W,B9 Burke tnakeu hor entrance up- te the BtaE0 in her now play, in 111 la ' tb!3 Bown of straight lines and lPlL Vd - E,rtisbess and tho audience notes . a PleaBed mood that it is of "all-id "all-id vor laco" of 3lmple, conventional in' rfJ p Pattern. It conformo to the mode by giving a flounced effect In BtraiSttC lines without added breadth to the flgure. The flounce is scant and set upon another, each being about olghteen inches deep and no fuller than the skirt where it la gathered upon tho hips. Whilo two and a half yards wide, It is so soft and clings ho closely to the flguro that the skirt Eeems scarcely wider than the hobble of the paBt two seasons. It is made over a slip of the same froBtlikc whiteness. A charming llttlo white satin peasant bonnet, adorned with a garland of rosebuds, completes the costume. When she returns to her home, after the birthday dinnor given on the stage in her honor, eho wcacs over her white evening gown of chiffon and crystal embroidery a cloak of white cblfton Unod with the eame materJal and bordered with satin and fringe. The neck, front and large, flowing sleeves of the evening cloak are bordered wlp Hitiu fringe. Croaa rows of tlio fringe are arranged m geometric do-eign do-eign across the skirt of the coat, meeting tho border of satin In front. The gown and cloak give excellont hints to the young girl for her afteruoo- and evoning attire, Uils Autumn. . it,o Keeping In mind the fact that this Is to be largely a whit and LADY DUFF-GORDON, the famous "Lucile" of London, ano foremost creator of fashions in the world, -writes each week the fashion arlicle for this newspaper, presenting all that is newest and best in styles for wcll-drcsscd women. Lady Duff-Gordon's new Paris establishment bring3 her into close touch with that centre of fasluon. Lady Duff-Gordon's American establishment is at Nos. 37 and 39 West Fifty-seventh street, New York City pink season Miss Burke's costumes are in those colors. Th9 gownB are of white and the garniture almost wholly of pink. This 1b true even to the negligee which Bho wears in the mornin-, white chiffon over a foundation of palo pink, like the inner in-ner part. of a shell or the softly tinted heart of a blush rose. Though so early in the new Autumn season certnin notes have been definitely Bounded and certain lines drawn as to the modes that will prevail. The dircctolre influence is, perhaps, per-haps, tho dominant one, while the Louis XV inspiration is also still evidenced in the much modified pannier pan-nier skirt draperies, though nowadays nowa-days (and nights) the said draperies draper-ies arc only permitted to suggest, in the most stub tie and therefore most becoming way, those puffs about the hips that once distorted the most graceful figure. SometimeB It Is true yon will see ' and there iB Just the chance that you yourself will be induced to wear an evening dress whoso tunic folds of net will be of quite billowy fullness, but this because they are also quite transparent. The slender and straight outline of the fituire and the underskirt will never be lost sight of for a moment. By tho way, too, some of these iitenhanous panniers are being made -ith long, fur-bordered slits at lar side which have something of the quaint effect of huge and un- ex?tethenLwetaro destined to see -m0BiucU more, In fact-of the pleated skirt which came to ub singly and somewhat nervously in the late Spring and early Autumn, but is now arriving boldly and in positive and pretty battalions! When well-made, these skirts can be very attractive, but real and speoial Bklll is demanded for their making if they are to give the new freedom of movement and, withal, retain the old narrow silhouette. As to our waist line it is undoubtedly undoubt-edly to move down a little and possibly pos-sibly also to decrease In circumference circumfer-ence by an inch or so if, that is, we are to accept the guidance of an impressive number of the new models, mod-els, where the waist is encircled and accentuated by deep belts and closely swathed sashes. But also, and because fashion is so wise now, that she manages to be all things to all women, there are many rather hlgh-waisted and other almost waistless gowus, while certain of the more extreme evening models are designed to be worn without any corsets at all. I note too and deplore a tendency ten-dency in some quarters to restrict our prized and pretty neck-freedom by the bondage of hlgh-folded collar-bands and cravats, but still I have sufficient confidence In the all-conquering all-conquering and charming low collar to believe that no such attempts will be able to diminish the number,, and the enthusiasm, of lis wearers Very long sleeves (glove, fitting from the exceedingly low shouldar line to the wrist or the knuckles) SSm? a fGatUre of Aut"Sn eownst yjgj White Satin. |