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Show BslNew York Fashions B y EDITH SAYMON t I ho Tribune, -ur oiit 10 While it is " to speak definitely winter styles, still advanced ,5illy a iorerunnor of what ttd a fairly ffood idea of '0l m nterials. etc.,. that will V- on may be Rained from Motion of those , garjneuls 5 from Pans. With those y.fcs as critonons, bluo ap-is ap-is in Eolid colors, and sceni-before sceni-before were thoro bo many tde. For instance, there is tea blue, vrhich introduced iriuK in millinery. It now is 8S smartest tint in blue, or nro the peacook shades. Ic oil tonos oL olue will be vergisK on the eraens, such . peacock and auck, will tie niout fashionable. Gray rr deep tints, shading on 'xriW bo stylish, and this Dinke np into practical suits or general wear. Dark and -ever tfo oiit of fashion, and i safe choice. Tins season brown shado3, such as to-ieetuut, to-ieetuut, will be preferred to jrowns, and m the lighter ind mode will bo attractive, i and beaver shades socn ines of cloths will be popu-eg popu-eg cloaks and wraps later olh costumes arc peculiarly istratious of the modified ;y!e, for the new fabrics, ret firmly woven, are per-to per-to long, clinging lines. 13 broadcloths and others inipnsiiiod. aro made up fiorat'on, so -hat their rich-brought rich-brought out to rhe best, ad-many ad-many models this applies ikiris. The bodice or coat : hemmed or, perhaps, cov-aidinj. cov-aidinj. If the lapt method e braid is solcctcd so that rms a conspicuous part of . 9 -nds and fringe TN-it.Ii wide in or jeweled, and all man-trimmings, man-trimmings, will add their umousness to the soft, fabrics of the season. Coamings, Coa-mings, however, there aro enures io bo noted. Either iDcling of two or more m:i-ilk m:i-ilk and velvet, or of two is lauo :t iid passementerie c of them is often seen iVCinag gows there are silk t netted bands picked out with pearls or with largo cut beads and jewels, and somo of theso have a design of, solid silk cmbroidcrj- running through them, with the jewels forming tho central motives. mo-tives. m In tho development of stripes the newest skirts show alternate gores in different effects. .As a rule, the front gon) has the stripe arranged jut straight up and down, gores cut so that the stripe comes diagonally or horizontally horizon-tally to outline this, then come the straight lines, and so on, completing the skirt. The tunic effect will be simulated by moans of deep folds set on to nuggest points on l 'on the bins and piped or beaded bv n narrow satin fold. Tho. bias band will be used again as a trimming to the skirt, but will bo wido and set on from five to seven inches above the hem. the distance depending upon the height of the wearer. Tho latest, novelty is the undercoat, which is designed to take the place of tho chamois .jacket. It. answers tho same purpose, but combines beauty with usefulness. use-fulness. It 18 cut with a I'Teneh back and no underarm pieces, but darts out in front, to make it fit without fulness. It reaches, at the most, only four inches below the waistline," and hooks invisibly down the front, (ho two edges just meeting. The neck is either cut in V ; shnpo or finished with rcvers, which, however, must lie flat lest they intcrr fero with the fitting of the coat that covers it. If the coatco is formed as a part of 1ho wrap, this point, of course, does not need to be Considered. In an imported model of navy cloth there is ono of these underjackets of tan sued.?, witli gold embroidery and silk applique. Rich patterns that at the shops would cost from ton to twenty twen-ty dollars a yard can bo mado at home, bv embroidering or by the application of cut-out figures. net insertions, etc. Tho jackets should be cut first, in that case, to avoid unnecessary work, and. where worked properly, fitted and lined und piped on tho edges. The piping is not necessary, but gives an attractive finish. I Many of the coats are of half or three-quarters length generally the latter lat-ter and most of them are short-waist-ed to a greater or less degree. Tho back is pretty sure to rise above the ordinary waist, line. In tho most, elaborate elab-orate suits the pear-shaped armholo fin-isli fin-isli is it feature. Sleeves aro many. jMost of them are full length. The rest are mainly soven-oighths length. Tho latter slecvo is, by tho way, a tTving length for a hand and wrist that 'lack good lincs Plain coats nnd plaid or checked skirts are again prominent. In fact, the style is justified by the matchod materials brought in for such suits. Coats wiil be, without being tight-fitting, tight-fitting, cut closer to tho figure than those worn during tho summer. Tho form will bo more clearly defined. The plainer coats, buttoned straight down, the front or cut away to display a trim, neat vest of a contrasting color, will also be favorites. As a rule, the new coats will be perfectly straight all around the lower edge. Thev will be cur. away in front, sometimes displaying the skirt panel. The shoulder line' will bo a reasonable length, not a bit. exaggerated exag-gerated and the coat sleeves will be full length. - 2sot in many seasons has tho millinery millin-ery display included so tnany becoming Ehapes and appropriate styles for middle-aged or elderly women's wear, as are soon this fall. As an example, every second new hat or bonnet is a. combination, of white nnd black, and then is nothing really smarter or more striking than these colors combined for women past their first vouth. ! ' The newest shapes, too. aro exact duplicates of those that younger women wom-en are wearing, except in point of size older women, as a rulo, preferring the smaller models. The new 100S hats, with -medium crown and brim covered with heavy silk or glossy satin, black or white, tho under brim faced to contrast, con-trast, with trimmings of breasts and wings, aro st3'les for the middle-aged woman, and exactly the same designs, with, perhaps, wider brims, or a larger flare, are tho vory latest importation for 3ounger matrons. Very few shapes arc seen with the straight brim, but when it is in evidence it is found to bo narrower than those worn during the summer. Tho "now" shape, however, has a slightly rolling brim, with a decided de-cided flaro on tho left side. M Just now thn newest outdoor accessory acces-sory for neckwear, is tho .Pierrot ruff. This includes a great variety of designs de-signs nnd materials. Tho now jabots aro larger than used during tho summer. sum-mer. They have large bows and cascades cas-cades of fino lawn, net or lace. Edges aro still scalloped as a finish to tho lawn" jabots, tho stitching, white or a color, as preferred. M Among t lc accessories that aro new in tho shops are the fans of exquisite empire shapes, in silk and chiffon or lace. There are less expensive ones of net, with dainty- applique figures and a double or triple frill oT lace across tho top, and two long ribbon streamers floating from tho handle. These streamers are quite a novelty and may be purchased separately as well as the fan rings. Tho former are in many fancy devices. Some aro long ends and wide tulle, tiod with satin ribbon; rib-bon; others aro wide ribbons, slashed and edged with fringe or lace. The fan rings are jowcled, or otherwise decorated, dec-orated, and are nothing more or less than bracelets, more ornamental than serviceable. Among the new veils there is. one in which the loopely woven net is of a double or a heavy thread, and another an-other in which it looks like a fine silk web. This last comes dotted or plain, and is extra wide. Chineso embroidered embroid-ered bands are especially useful this season for small rovers, vests, muffs, otc. Tho long-handled sunshade is superseded by tho very long-handled umbrella, to aid in complteing the Diroctoire turn of tho fashion. |