Show I TUE TRIP TO TilE ANTIPODES J Mrs Trent Sends a Most Readable Account of Her Voyage I Voy-age Amid Scenes of EverIncreasing Interest Noteworthy of the Great worthy Stops Journey I L1 4 II I Melbourne Australia March 15I 1 laughed when I heard oC Stcvcnsona directions to the Sandwich islands You leave San Francisco and its the first turning to the left Now there Is the same humor In that r ns In j the Judges story of the man who took a bath In a bolllnpr spring somewhere some-where out In Nevada then hid hlm T eilf on the other side and waited Joyfully Joy-fully to sec his companion come along and share the same fate That airy direction carries with It all the grim humor of the first dip In the hot bathwe had no Idea of anything but it calm Journey to the first turnIng turn-Ing when we left San Francisco on the afternoon fo the 2Hh of January Many friends were gathered on the I wharf to wish the fifteen passengers from Salt Lake nj n voyage five of whom were to stop at Honolulu the L other ten to Journey on till the south I pole blocked the way The humor of the situation began to 1 snanlfest Itself as soon as we had passed the Farallonea thirty miles out 2so ope dreamed of anything but Kinooth seas neither did the men who built Ihw ship or surely they would have saved our feelings to the extent of putting In thicker glass fo quicker quick-er than 1 can tell it we were In the 1 midst of a lerrltlc storm wind howling howl-ing seas roaring and dunning on us mountains high broke every window J on the starboard side letting In tons of green water flooding tho dining saloon sa-loon and drenching the cabins Everybody Every-body sivk from the captain down and I up I again stewards and stewardesses too much taken up with their own I trouble to look after anyUody elses When night came on I found myself prone on the floor knocked there bye I by-e y lurch of the ship and there 1 lay too III to rise above It T heard u voice and looking around saw D 1 at the head of the companlonuay her j face a slcklj yeUoXvRrecn Saying T What a11 nlytoCldlots j we were ever to f leave i fell Ie Take If I had Ti lived among the British as long then UK now I youId have answered Hear lioar bull Was too weak to tay anything I any-thing and uin to care much The 1 next morning was no better I A noticed a perkylooking Israelite and TI asked him as he dodged the flying I chairs and tables If he had ever crossed before Oh yes dlsls I my fortysixth trip Dls Is nodings we always have dls wcddcr out for tree I hundred rnlleK den ifs ajrldc again May heaven bless Uhnhe spoke the truth The limit passed we entered Into all the beauties our fancy had ever painted of the limitless blue Pacific I Pa-cific Two days of perfect weather 1 landed us at our first stopping place Honolulu over two thousand mlkH from the Golden Gate Here we parted with Mr and Mrs Newell and son and nearly a hundred passengers and here we met Mr and Mrs Kahn and daughter and Albert Taylor formerly of Salt Lake but nowhere In sight was the late lamented Conway though here Is where he left the ship Marl posa sailing some time before the Sonoma This is a line vantage ground for a man to settle down but no great shakes when It comes to settling I set-tling up at least with the fellows left behind c We stopped a day to coal and this gave us an opportunity tovtake In the city We had carriage and rode I around for two hours and when cabby cab-by charged us f 10 for It we thought we I must surely be In gay New York They tell us the city Il quite American I suppose that must be taken to mean S the Jehus charges and a certain lively air of business outside of that the comparison ends very narrow and very dirty streets with a few line atone blocks and the people well you think of nothing so much as that famous street let down and j turned inside out with fish flesh and d fowl running around like a disturbed anthill Listen to the mixture Kanaka 4 Kana-ka Chinese Japanese Portuguese negroes ne-groes and Americans all blends scarcely a purebreed among them I Blue eyes In yellow faces sickly white skins with kinky hair atop Kanaka fronts and Chinese backs with a dingy din-gy white strain showing through the I whole measly lot You Involuntarily recall Mexico and Its woolly pigs 1 The only clear brand among them area < t are-a few enterprising whites late comers i from America and Europe tf j The islands themselves arc beautiful beauti-ful beyond description with verdure lJIJ clad hills and corneous Ironical flow f crJ emIt Is bound to be a place of Importance i Import-ance on account of the shipping industry I t > indus-try and being situated exactly right i for a coaling station for shim going p and coining to and from Japan and 1L4 Australia I We slept that night tied up to the harf with the native stevedore loadIng load-Ing coal singing shouting and laughing t 1 laugh-ing all night long Their daytime diversions I 1 di-versions seems to be dogfighting and r gambling In the Street anytime anil I anywhere though always with half 4l r an eye out for the Jolly fat policeman i jh police-man on horseback who would ride 1 among them now and then scaring 4 them up llky u flock of blackbirds But I they would settle again to business as I j1l noon as ever he redo away They area J are-a Jolly linppy lot laughing and chatI I 1 terjng all the time Tho mass go bare l t i footed foul I could not honestly say it 4oL lrnproed the looks of their feet They I Ic4 string gaycolored bfossoms like beads 4i nnd wear them around their hats and I I I necks fresh every morning This pretty costume was restricted to a 7 uir privileged few In tho beginning but I iIk now It is i very general We were so deroVatcd on our departure the next 1 ° lJJ day by the godd friends left hereWith V here-With many wishes for a safe Journey it1i on their part and loving messages for iWJJ nil at home on ours we took leave I I7l followed out of the harbor by naked = 6U little Kanaka boys diving afrer nickels I W nick-els entirely rcRardlcsa of Hharks I ti A millionaires Hon on board threw I r thorn a i dollar hut being too heavy It I fludod their eager fingers and big L jI black eyes 6h From here on our whole Journey wasp was-p nne long delight smooth sens brisk 1Fi brcexps and 1 plwumnt company chief h4 amongJthom was Cup CJrogan and lila It chard fI1r bride IIo Is I a handsome Cfiid young TBrltlsh olllrer only I 20 and m honors enough for a graybeard Ho a received his Captaincy In the Mata fk bcle war afterward went to Africa 1ck and walked through It six thousand uri rnllew from Capetown to Cairo making I valuable and accurate maps over Cecil Khodea8 proposed railway He was it at it three years killing big game on l 1 the way for pastime elephants lions 1f tigers hlppoa lie has written a book r of over six hundred pages absorbingly entertaining telling of his travels his vi hunting axper nccs the flora and fauna of the Country and describing II I i Its wonderful topographical features tAL It IK a wonderful journey and a won m fsrful r book Cecil Rhodes wrItes the ifp1 introduction r 1 Queen Victoria summoned him to an 4 ttudlpnco and bestowed medal The i orld will hear more front this ex traordinary young man ti E I After leaving Honolulu wo traveled 3r Oer two thousand miles to ourjiewly i cquircl territory PagoPago a star I tion on one of the Samoan group of J Islands Seventy miles west of this Is I Apia dear to every lover of Stevenson There Is where his Indomitable spirit sank to rest Sorely disappointed were we not to see the Island home he loved so well However the Germans have taken It In exchange and we have PagoPago This Is a soulsatisfying spot to one who hates modern life llcic you can come and live with Adam and Eve In the Garden of Eden you who arc tired of liUlorn1 bills Indigestible Indiges-tible dinners and the endless struggle to get more than your fellows Here In the place no clothes no work no strife When you are hungry reach up In the trees breakfast dinner and supper sup-per when you arc tired lie down with the beasts of the field and the sharks of the sea though one native must I have lingered In the water 190 long for a hand was gone and when I pointed to the stump he grinned and said shok They are happygolucky lot l very pleasing to look upon red hair seems to be tho one desired thing so they Ninoar shell lime over It and leave It till It I bleaches the right shade 1 noticed no-ticed In passing the males put on more lime than the females but that little I falling of vanity belongs only to primitive primi-tive man nothing could be freer from it than the males of today If you wish to see nature In all Its parity hurry up for the missionary i Is already ahead of you zealous for souls and clothes When we stepped on shore among them every rag on the island must have been brought into requisition for fear of our feelings l I feel-ings but tho shoe must have pinched I the other foot for when a bit of twine dropped from a mite ot 3 he not up a fearful wall and mode frantic of forts to tie It on again to the great 1 I amusement of the muchbeclothed whiles At that rate It wont be long before the poor things nrc dressed to kill and marching off to Sundayschool to be taught to sTngI Want to Be an Angel They have gentle showerp here a I dozen times a day when the natives retire under their cocoamat huts open nilmound but so low that you have to bend double to get In Twenty 01 more willsquat under and peer Up at you with theirbig black eyes and l I Invite you in to share their llles and dirtWhat What an Ideal place to send our Weary Willies i The missionaries might be made to think they had souls too and then their clothes would bean be-an object lesson It gave me quite a sensation to hear three tattooed curios 1 say You Mormon i you Mormon me go Sal Laic JTIs thus Zion extends I nor borders and the fame of our fair city is advertised over the beautiful isles of the sea by her unwearying Saints i > I Whut shall 1 say of this Eden Where every prospect pleases And not even man Is vile I It rises abruptly out of the sea 600 feet and Is covered entirely with soft esttinted Bhubbeiy away up to skyline sky-line intermingled everywhere with the graceful cocoa palms this is true I of all the islands I of the Pacific Tills particular harbor is shaped like a large bowl with a piece nicked out wherein our ship slowly and cautiously made her way Once inside the sight was beautiful Inyond description I First around the semicircle a narrow nar-row beach of yellow sand back of that rods of cocoanut palms pine apples I ap-ples bananas oranges and breadfruit trees among them the native huts I then on clear up to thesummit a solid mass of green not a bare spot anywhere any-where So riotous and prodigal la Old I Mother Nature to the children who live closest to her great heart We found our Government busy with steam dredges preparing a suitable wharf Ours was the second large flteamer to call In here We anchored I about five hundred feet out and natives na-tives In their canoes rowed those ashote who wished to go About fifty availed themselves of the privilege but when the ships bugle call sounded i for dinner I am ashamed to say It I we Joyfully turned our backs on the Garden of Eden and hastened forward Jnto a sincursing sweating world with its fine ships good dinners aad soft beds dont blame us blame Eve she was the first one to long for mosquito nets easy chairs and Ice water wa-ter I wondered what these primitive children thought of It all as they stopped in their walks about tho decl < sand s-and gazed in on us at dinnerelectric lights electric fans snowy linen sparkling glass and silver one set of whites seated and served the other standing and serving all strange all incomprclienslve as their big round staring eyes testified A piece of Ice was given to one and that to them was the greatest miracle of all w At oclock we pulled out all dark but for the starry heavens and the toiches flaring forth from the shore Anative pilot guided us safely out of the harbor then with all team on we ploughed through the soft phosphorescent phosphores-cent waters headed due south for Auckland our next stopping place over twelve hundred miles away Our longest stretch had been passed between Honolulu and PagoPago 2210 miles and taking the longest time between ports eight I days We crossed the equator on this run Nothing could equal the beauty of these waters a deep rich sapphire blue wth sparkling pearls of foam It was Joy to gave Into the depths and when night settled rtround us to lookup look-up and feel the nearness of the great tropic stars nnd gaze on the milky way so broad and luminous Hero we bade farewell to our beloved North star and greeted tho Southern Cross We had been told to keep a lookout for it for several nights and when at last it was pointed out to UK we groaned Inwardly and would have outwardly ony for the presence of enthusiastic en-thusiastic Britishers t In the first plucn It was Insignificant Insignifi-cant and In the next you had to twist your neck nnd Imagination fearfully to make a crowj out of Ilal all We came down here to be polite at least so we talked about the wondcm of the I roul saCk In the milky way and tried not to look at their wonderful cross but the fool of It was In the back and It kept us hoerlng near the line all the time We passed no Islands whatever In our long Journeying from port to port but the way was never lonesome nor tedious You remember in Mark Twains book More Tramps Abroad where he tollfi Into what state of consternation consterna-tion he and his fellow professors were thrown when a New Zealand gentleman gentle-man called at their college wltih a letter let-ter of Introduction OC course they must ask him to dinner and the talk would naturally turn to his country Where was It anyway Mark had u vague notion It was an Island connected con-nected with Australia but that would never do he rushed frantically to the telephone and nsktfrt earn professor in turn what he knew about New Zealand Zea-land and each one said It wan an Island joined to Australia by a bridge It all ended Withthe wives taking charge of th j iurangerjnml entertaining entertain-ing him until th s profwsora rend upon up-on New Zealand When the dinner hour cam they were prImed and laid for that poor man They told him so much about his own country that he apologized for being born At the close he rose and said Gentlemen I um abashed in the presence of so much learning if you know so much about my faraway country what must you know about your own I take It for granted New Zealand Is as mythical a country to most of you sis It was to me I am not sure we thought a bridge spanned the two islands but my Idea of New Zealand and Australia and Tasmania was hazy enough I know I thought they were all Islands lying very near each other wilh Melbourne a goodsized city somewhere in Australia And now after all wo were to have a much plcasanlcr way of studying geography than Mark and the other professors It unfolded day by day before our eager eyes On the morning morn-ing of the fifth day some one shouted New Zealand nnd we lined up to take our first lesson New Zealand In Ian I-an Island and we were going very soon to see how long that bridge would have to be to span the water We found Auckland a nice city of 62000 people wltli an excellent harbor I I would like to tell yoi of the wbndcrs of New Zealand and may do so in another I an-other letter We stopped a day to coal taking on five hundred ions I and at early dawn crept out to seahtMj with all steam on started a race with a rival ship which left at midnight for Sydney the end of our ocean Journev Wn WTO three days and three hours crossing and that bridge would have had to cover twelve hundred and 5ev I enty miles but wo heat the other I ship I by two hours < aiul It does not matter much about the geography Sydney I with Its worldfamous harbor and its I halfmillion people must wait until another t an-other time My love to America In I general and Salt Lake fn particular DELOM13 TRENT |