Show e 60WNS fOR rDE SOUTtt I I Built on Spring Lines and Showing What Our Next Seasons Sea-sons Costumes are to BeThe Gathered Skirt Corning Corn-ing InToilettes Seen at the TheaterThe Muff of the Moment I I have Jupt been shown a number oC now owns built for one of the four hundred in anticipation of her Florida Muting They will be worn here however how-ever In New York and at Lakewoorl before appearing on the scene for which they were specially created The first is a walking gown of the very finest possible black faced cloth with a slightly bloused corsage pointed ever so llttlo In front and with a perfectly plain back A very effective trimming arrangement down the front continues k also down the center of the skirt thus making a long line from head to foot It Is an application of black glace silk embroidered In black silk and finished with quaint little black silk tassels The special novelty of this skirt Is I that though cut in bell shape It Is scantily gathered all around the walsL OL courfe the wearer Is slender or she would never attempt this new departure depart-ure I must not forget to mention that a tiny chcmlstnte of tucked white mousseline and a large cravat bow of the same at the Junction of the two revers turned back somewhat in the manner of a sailor collar gives the finishing fin-ishing touch to a gown of marked distinction dis-tinction A second dress is j a deshabille In empire em-pire form made of accordeonpleuted moiiBieline de sole in an ivory tint It Is very soft and clinging with no superfluous su-perfluous fullness the pleats start I r from the square decolletJige and fall I In long lines to the ground and finish at the bottom with five rows of narrow satin ribbon placed at short distances one from the other Around the waist is a wide satin sash with long ends knotted at the back the square is filled In with Irish point to the throat The second dress is in blege veiling I with tiny white embroidered dots showered show-ered all over the material made over a white foundation The bodice is composed of a bolero of bas Maltese lace Intersected with bands of veiling In tiny horizontal tucks hewn throe or four together from the tin oat to the waist at the back and upon the shoulder shoul-der seams The front opens over a narrow nar-row vest of lace of liner texture and finishes transparent at the neck with a high pointed band of the same lace around tho throat tied with a narrow black velvet ribbon The sleeves arc of the spotted veiling insisted with lace at the wrist The skirt is made with nine small tucks in tho front starting from the waist to the knees the center tucks longer than the others the remainder decreasing In length an they reach the sides Tho back Is gauged at the waist and falls carelessly care-lessly to the ground This spotted veiling veil-ing Is on of the pow spring materials which we shall se displayed 1 on tho counters of highclass stores later on A fourth creation was of a new soft cloth almost us thin as cashmere It was ot eaudcNil green and made with a flat boxpleated skirt with the pleats opening at the feet and a bodice with I vest empire band collar and revers trailing design of leaves and Mowers in gold thread The sleeves wore of plain cloth the upper portion of Unarm t Un-arm cut out and embroidered with while silk 1 have already told you that velvet is 1 having a great success this winter The prettiest gown of this material I have seen up to date is an almond green velvet made en princesse with a small boxpleat starting from the center of the bodice at the back caught In at the waist with a lovely ornament of turquoise and gold the pleat continuing con-tinuing below the waist and losing Its distinct outline In the Mow of the skirt The square bolero and Incrustation in the front of the skirt are In black watered silk With a wide application of Bruges the sleeves in velvet I covered with motifs of the same lace A plaque of tuiquolso and gold attach the bolero across the chest The pleat stalling In the center of the back of < L princess gown HM commencement hidden by a bolero Is fashions latest word In this direction Seen at the Theater At the theater the other night I saw some very attractive toilette tvo or three of the most chic being of while and black Just In front of us sat a frock of while lace finished on the corsage 1 cor-sage by black sequin and jet galoon She was very chic that woman and I liked her hair immensely also It was parted on one side and gathered up Into a topknot coming almost to the forehead fore-head through which was stuck on a line with her brow a very splendid diamond dia-mond arrow a big one and tully as wide as her head Her cloak was In soft pale blue silk handpainted allover all-over with bunches of purple pansies It was decidedly unique Another woman wo-man had a lovely cloak of drawn pink chiffon with a big grebe l collar showing show-ing the brown edge of the plumage asa as-a border Many other cloaks wore of while satin much draped with real lace and further adorned by ermine and others wore long black satin pale tots with ermine collars A young girl on our right wore an extremely pretty and simple whILe mouss lIne and guipure gui-pure gown It was entirely tucked long sleeves bloused waist and skirt The tucks of the latter were released about fifteen Inches from the bottom and flowed softly out into a frill edged with sable which was a great help toIl to-Il expansion Rich guipure lace edged the low neck and banded at intervals the tucked skirl A ehou of the mous selme was set on the left of the corsage and a wide sash of the same was lld about the slender wiTlst and fell nearly to the hem at the back Very noticeable noticea-ble that right were the Insect brooches Such a mania as there is for these Everything that crawls and files seems to be represented One of the quaintest was a corsage brooch In the semblance of a huge spider whose body was a pearl and whose legs were studded with diamonds The Muff of tho Moment The muff of the moment is a perfect monument of magnificence Justifiably might It give Itself great airs Indeed on reflection 1 am Inclined to think it Is doing so any way It forms a finely distinctive Item on every selfrespecting winter toilette And further there is positivelyMIO excuse that and amongst us should Vail In this particular decree of Madame Le Mode For lacking the ready wherewithal or recIlllhe to are always somewhat synonymous in my mind as In the absence of the one the other Is moslly forlhcomlng < but falling 1 say both these necessaries whereby we may indulge In fur there I is the alternative of velvet or satin together with lace and the decorative influence of Moral trophies Again a muff of fur wanting In size and substance sub-stance can be economically iilsnd I to fashionable heights by frills of velvet berulHod Interlorally with hue or chiffon chif-fon About the exterior a fastidious taste demands a pertain uniformity of coloring Thre Is a peculiar vulgar exasperation In frills of blightcolored silk coming directly out without any intervention of lace from a dark fur muff Should fur not be available for the frills and the size > of the muff requiring re-quiring uuh conditions then velvet or satin preferably J think the former should l be mulched exactly and the contrast relegated altogether to the Inside In-side sidethe only exception to his rule I am Inclined to make Is In favor l of chinchilla chin-chilla and white satin A frill of white atln veiled in one of croamy lace enhances en-hances very much an ordinary round muff of chinchilla And yet one other distinctly pleasing notion I have encountered en-countered It was In connection with a ItuKslan sable muff that was draped either end with Paisleypatterned panne and soft cream Inn the two caught together in front where pendant pend-ant ends bung down with straps of I turquoise velvet passed through small paste buckles But Infinitely more than all these frills and furbelows do I love the large Mat muff of granny pet suasion sua-sion with Its lining of ivory satin and I perhapu IL long bellropo end of Inco I falling from either side Such fancies I however are puiMy Individual and there is plenty of scope to permit or j choice and variety r A |