Show I MIDSUMMER STYLES I I f A Tendency Toward Military EffectsChic Traveling I I FrocksThe Short SKirt Promises to Stay I Japanese I r Lounging Robes and Kimonas i c i Lot It not be supposed that the summer I sum-mer season advances this far without i strong evidences changes fn fashion I showing themselves It Is enough to know that the spring opened with a mad fuiorc for every kind of frill furbelow 1 fur-below and gewgaw to surmise that by inldscason my ladys mood would change and from sheer satiety she I would begin to show a leaning toward I the other extreme and begin to adopt the trim neat and somewhat military t > styles These tendencies are to be seen Jlrst I Jnhcr costumes for outing sporty and traveling and tho midsummer additions j addi-tions to her outfit were a certain boastful I boast-ful swagger air from which her earlier I Investments were markedly frI fr-I Her traveling gown which for many seasons past appears to have forgotten Jts origin of dustproof simplicity and I has extravagantly flaunted ornamentations I ornamenta-tions of so elaborate and perishable a I character as to show a wanton disregard disre-gard for tradition and the ravages of material however and In its paler shades is i allowed to appear at dressy affairs from which the mohairs land Slclllens arc ruthlessly ostracised1 In dark blues browns and ston grays It is admirably adapted for summer traveling gowns and is light and COOn COO-n extremely smart little suit of blue Italian silk recently from the other side appeared In Tuxedo not lung ago and was genuinely successful In Its air I of briskness and chic proving also eminently emi-nently appropriate for short railroad Journeys and days of shopping In town The skirt showed a plain straight panel down the front which was bordered bor-dered in heavy Butcheries of black and outlined at his outer rim with two rows of the very narrowest gilt braid The panel was cut in the siunc piece with a yoke which came down upon the hips In the outline of panlers and curved up at the back leaving a space In which pleats of the main skirt appeared ap-peared extending from the walstban to the floor lhe skirt was entirely ploated the pleats which Joined the puiiLl In front being considerably larger larg-er than those at the back an original effect being obtained by the graduating gradu-ating sizes of the pleats The bolero jacket was equally origI FOB SUMMER HOPS j jii JLt 7 lk t iti I th11 t i J 4 2 I gi 2i 17t tpl I t t T I r 1 1 J T A i4 C i 1 Y l 1 I 5 k 7 r t f c ZJ 1 p 1 = zi ojC I j J 0 I p riJil 4 r t J r I i J t 9 If l I = iiI ii-I iI r F N J I j tNt 1 II I 1 1 f r r1P I J > j JFl Fl I zi t 4 t r i J t > f i lf < V r 1 I z4 M LvAY 1J TH J 4 I I vfHde fS i 2yrw lS f Y < 1I 1 I f This charming and dainty llltlo gown for hops and Informal summor occasions Is I of delicate inousscllne do sole mounted upon whit taffcja and decorated with airy ruchlngs and frills of tho came Tho long sleeves arc tucked In pin tucks and tho high corselet of whito satin Is draped with a scarf of mousscllno which falls tho length of the skirt at one side Tho extreme simplicity aiul por I feet whiteness of the frock Is artistically relieved with a cluster of highly colored berries and foliage at one sit 0 of tho open square neck cinders and flirt Is now beginning to I show few symptoms of quietness and plainness and Is learning anew something some-thing of tho wisdom and severity of Its foremothers Even since the first of the season a decided change has crept In and now tho suits for traveling are comparatively compara-tively simple save for the trim and all populag ornamentation of gilt braid I and buttons which express the military mili-tary spirit that Ir l rapidly becoming the rage Dark blue Italian silk with a dash of pi Itbraid ing and a few gilt buttons is the most recent ideal summer traveling trav-eling costume This Italian silk is a slight variation from tho mohairs and Stclllcns which have taken such a strong hold this summer and while a great deal more soft In texture and more silky and lus trous in appearance it still sheds the I dust cleverly It Is a more expensive I nal and chic showing the same curved outline as the yoke of the skirt with Its trimming of black slltcherJes and gilt braid As the bolero curved sharply from the neck below the arms a pleating of the Italian silk was adroitly attached to repeat the effect of the skirU The pleating fell In front from the neck In two large folds and graduated to the very smallest and narrowest size as It Joined the round Ing jacket under the arms showing only about onequarter of an inch In depth below the line of the bolero In the baclc The jacket was out somewhat some-what low in the neck and not allowed to meet hi front where a twist and a few loops of gilt braid and two gilt buttons on each side served as a fastening I The blouse worn with the suit was of scarlet of a very gay shade which showed so scantily between the bolero fronts as to lore all suspicion of boldness bold-ness The collar of the blouse had a large white band of stitched pique at its top and the folds of the soft red I broad black girdle where the slight pouching above the belt was disguised by the braiding a nd made to simulate the lower edge of t1e bolero I The little poplum which gave a Jaunty capping to the hips was circular circu-lar and without fullness save In the center of the back where the addition of two little pleats gave an air of Jauntiness J The lining of the little blouse was of India silk in a somewhat some-what brighter shade of green which added a certain freshness and coolness of aspect and scarcely any additional weight or heat It is worthy of remark also that In both of these new traveling gowns there was a perceptible shortening of the skirt which seemed to verify the prophecy that the short skirt is the coming mode The golf and outing skiit has now reached a lino that Is moderate and convenient It is no longer short enough to create surprise and Its an kljj length proves both graceful and free upon its present satisfactory proportions pro-portions the new street skirt for the fall is to be remodeled hut this does not mean that the long skirts will disappear dis-appear For diess occasions and also walking and street costumes the present pres-ent long and flaring skirts promise to hold their own but will not appear upon up-on the street Apropos of golf skirts It seems as if I pique and ducks have had their day and the wide popularity which they enjoyed last year is now waning They are now thrust In the background by skirts of khaki and pongee the latter particularly particular-ly J are strongly in evidence this season and are constantly peen on the golf links verandas and the beach Tliclr extreme lightness and Immunity from starch makes them adaptable both for seaside and mountain resorts For I golf their lack of crispness and consistency con-sistency as well as their thinness necessitates petticoats and underskirts of silk or lingerie which Is considered a trifle unsportsmanlike but nevertheless neverthe-less it is the popular skirt of golf and its perfect lightness and coolness make it Irresistible for midsummer wear Nearly all of the new gowns show decidedly de-cidedly lanrer sleeves and by the time fall appears we may expect to return to our mutton legs Large turnedback cuffs are already making their appearance appear-ance The Kimono silk coat with Its all important accessory of an elaborate lace and embroidery underskirt Is tho latest fad in summer lounge robes and these pretty trifles often Imported from Tapan or clcerly modified and copied from Japanese modes make very luxurious lux-urious negligees costing the dainty wearer anything from 25 to nOD apiece Very effective and charming conies are made in I cheaper materials however which perhaps gain in comfort what they lose in elaboration The Kimono coat Is a variation of the Kimona proper which reaches the feet the coat stops ten or twelve Inches above showing show-Ing the embroidered or lacetrImmed ruflle of the skirl |