OCR Text |
Show flat curls on the surface, indefinite stripe and check, shot reps and bensfslhies. Cloth will be supplanted by soft and thick arniure series, for the diamine-, narrow skirts require suprle materials. In richer fabrics, velvets will be shot with several snadcs; thick. Lyons silk will dj brilliant with a sort of metallic lustre, aud Terry velvet will be much used. V LITTLE MAIDS' FINERY- Costumes for American Girls of All A(je. The American girl, from 14 to 16 years, is a dear, sweet, amiable little creature. She ii clever far more so than boys of her age and she is industrious. You can tack on a whole string of complimentary adjectives to her, and still not tell what an exceedingly lovable little personage she is. But she is, as a rule, "gauche." There are some girls to whom grace is natural, but these are in the minority. She stoops or or she walks badiy, her shoulders play see-saw; no matter how small her feet arc, she finds much difficulty in disposing of them beneath her neither long nor short bkirts. And her hands ! Ob, how many a time has she wished that in the course of evolution evolu-tion hr.nds had not been considered neces-f neces-f cry. Poor little thing, she is teased or tormented tor-mented by older sisters who have gone through it all themselves; guyed by her brothers, and if not exactly seolded by her parents especially her mother their gentle rebukes have a bearing that way. Nobody knows the tours our girl sheds while she pretends to bo reading. For the moment she feels nobody in this hatiful old world cares lor her. Ye, the writer has been there, us thev say, aud knows what it is to have her awkward gait compared with Bomebody tlse's graceful walk. Our American girl's mamma goes to Paris and she i at once astonished at the difference differ-ence that exists between the jtanejilie there to any but black stockings. Veils she never woars. Her "bonne" always accompanies her except ex-cept when she is in the society of her family, fam-ily, and this "bonne" is a very superior person, per-son, one who is well bred, and wno, by constant con-stant teaching, has rubbed off the rough edges of mademoiselle's manners, which are further smoothed and ' engraced, if such a word may be coined for the occasion, by the frequent society of her gracious, graceful mamma. Soft, old, faded tints in wool make up charmingly for girls. A chevron-striped pale heliotrope cloth for one of twelve or fourteen years should have a full waist of the stuff, cut a la pompadour, displaying a guimpe of dainty embroidery, which is seen again through the opening of the cloth in front. It is attached to the perfectly plain, slightly gathered skirt, and is belted with satin ribbon, ornamented with rosettes of tSe same. A small, pointed turban-capote of black felt is trimmed with a ruche of tapestry, tap-estry, green ribbon aud a papillon bow of the same. Another pretty street costume is of a royal-flnishcd gray clotb, with an almost invisible in-visible and broken stripe of shrimp pink. The skirt is plain and shows a deep hem, with five rows of pink stitching. A long waist tits the figure in the back, ' but is loose in front, opening over a gilet of crevette surah, laid in deep pleats, iu surplice sur-plice effect and belted with a wide sash of the plaited silk. Black velvet faces the wide revers, which are also trimmed at the edge with small nacre buttons, flecked with gold. A wide brimmed hat of black velvet is worn with this gown, and has a soft crown of shrimp pink cloth. Two black feathers set It off, and are fastened with a dull gold buckle. four bars. Continue quarter way round, and salute partners; four bars. Salute corners; cor-ners; four bars. Ladies cross right hands, promenade half round, turning opposite gentlemen gen-tlemen with left hand; then cross right hand to places; eight bars; execute four times. FIFTH FIGURE. Salute partners, and execute grandsquare; sixteen bars; heads advance to center and sides divide to corners, two bars; heads divide di-vide to sides, and sides to heads' places, two bars; heads to corners and sides from heads' places to center, two bars; heads return to places and partners, and sides to places and partners, two bars, making eight bars. Repeat Re-peat eight bars. First couple promenade inside the set, and faze outward in places; third, fourth and second couples fall in behind, be-hind, eight bars; all chase, eight bars; inarch; forward aud back, four bars, forward for-ward again, and turn partners to places, four bars; execute four times, each couple in turn leading off with promenade. The dance concludes with the grand square, heads leading as before for eight bar, then reverse by sides leading, and heads dividing to corners. It is now considered good form simply to walk through the figures of the, square dance as gracefully as possible, rather than to attempt at-tempt any dancing steps. The salutation at the beginning of the quadrille should be a courtesy from the lady and a bow from the gentleman. It is perhaps needless to add that, in swinging his partner, a gentleman does not put his arm around the lady's waist and spin her like a teetotum five or six times be-fore be-fore she can take breath, neither does he dance heavily upon his heels executing elaborate pigeon-winsjs in balancing, or leave his partner in the middle of the floor without offering his arm to take her to a seat. The perfectly correct position to take for the round dance, according to the latest fiat in "The Art of Dancing," is this: The gentleman gen-tleman places his right arm around the lady's waist, with the fingers together aud the hand flat upon the waist. In this position posi-tion the lady should be gently but firmly supported. The lady's left hand should rest lightly upon the gentleman's right shoulder with the fingers together, find slightly curved, without grasping or bearing heavily upon tne gentleman. If the gentleman is so much taller than his partner as to make this position uncomfortable for the lady, her hand may rest upon his arm at about the KIDIXG "MAX FASUIOS." How Glrla Accomplish Tills iu California, Cali-fornia, Even those dear, modest daughters of Mrs. Grundy arc now beginning to rub their eyes with a look not all dismay, but mixed with a certain envy, when they see a happy, vigorous sister can'.er by on the cross-saddle, so universally called "man's saddle." And one inquisitive maid asks: "What kind of a suit do they wear? llow can one make the things? And, when mounting or dismounting, dis-mounting, or walking aren't they dreadful?" No, dear; they can be much more graceful than the ordinary habit, aud there is room for the individual taste, says the Boston Transcript. One young woman, a frequent rider, and one who in California takes many long exploring ex-ploring tours, has made a very full sk.rt, about twice the volume of an ordinary gathered gath-ered skirt, and this she folds under her on the saddle so as to a. low on either side an , ample covering to the foot. This she has j found to be invaluable, as it "stays put," and cannot fly about in the breeze. Another young Californiau his succeeded in having made a most comfortable, neat and picturesque suit, the skirt or rather, light-weight green cloth being simply two skirts, the regulation divided article, only much fuller, and, of course to just clear the ground. This is the nearest approach to the horrifying idea of trousers! When viewed from either side the rider looks very tall and sylph-liks, as the skirt hangs straight down and clings. There should be riding trousers uuder ttiii. But the palm for grace, comfort and in-conspicuousness, in-conspicuousness, is awarded to a ma djn who, spending some time in Boston and wishing to go properly out to Belmont aud take riding lessous, was transported ta a ranch in the beautiful mountains of the golden West, presented with a 4-year-old hrnnfhn nf hurkioir fume and told "to rid '." I the basket-like drawer, and behold! all your sewing, mending and other needlework, nicely folded, each ready to be called into active service. bouffante sleeves, caught at the elbow with green velvet. A PIXK SILK CREPOJT GOWS. An older girl would look well in a gown of pink, silk-striped crepon, with a wide directoire belt and revers of pink velvet. The corsage has a deep cape of white silk net, quite full, and edged with a guipure lace. It is so- draped as to form jabots on the gigot sleeves. Bronzed kid shoes and silk stockings of the same color should be worn. had he lived to this day he would never have put pen to. It being the first of the round dances to be brought into Britain, it quite shocked some of them, you know; but always seemed very funny that Lord Byron should have been among the first to have raised a loud and righteously Indignant howl against the morals of the waltz. But perhaps it Wasn't so odd, after all. lie never danced. All of the round dances will this season have more of a slide to the sida than heretofore. here-tofore. "The dance, to be interestintr, should be varied as much as possible," says Mr. Jud-son Jud-son Sause, the well-known authority on dancing, "but the lady should never be made to dance backward in any of the round dances. The gentleman is the pilot of the dance, and he should always indicate a change of direction. The lady should be prepared to follow the slightest suggestion as the success suc-cess of the dance depends entirely upon concert in movement." In square dances there is nothing new. The minuet, lanciers will probably be danced the most. This is the way it is done: FIRST FIGURE. Head couples forward and back, with side couples on the right; four bars. Forward again, and take ladies from the sides aud retire re-tire to opposite places; four bars. Chasse to the right, and then to the left; four bars. Turu partners; four bars. Hands all around; eight bars. Head couples repeat to regain places. Sides repeat twice. SECOND FIGURE. All forward and back; four bars. Forward and back again; four bars. Right and left quarter round, turning half round with left hand, and right hand to partners to plaees; eight bars. All promenade. Execute four times. THIRD FIGrRE. All forward and back; four bars. Forward again, salute and retire to places; four bars. Right and left, half round, eight bars. Execute Ex-ecute four times. FOURTH FIGURE. Right and left quarter round, and salute; THE SEASON'S DANCES. The Wentworth," "Manitoa" and Qnad-drillas Qnad-drillas Direction for Calling Off. Tou must dance the "Delmonte" if yon want to be in fashion this season. If is a modification of the old-time schottish, and is likely to become very popular among the round dances. You take the waltz position, slide the left foot to side, take the second position, count, draw right foot to left.and but it takes a competent dancing master to tell you how to do it. Its worth knowing, though, if you intend to be in the swim, writes Alice E. Ives in a New York paper. Right here it may be worth while to know what is meant by "first position," "second position," etc., when attempting to learn a new dance. Two other very pretty dances are "the Wentworth" and "the Manitou." The former for-mer is a modification of the mazourka, and the latter of the gallop. In the Manitou the waltz position is taken, and the side the latter lat-ter of the gallop instead of the forward rush is the step most used. The military schottish will still remain popular, as will also a variation of the old-fashioned polka, in which about three slide steps are given, and polka, as you turn. Another variation of the polka, the Berlin, is danced by the couple starting out side by side, the gentleman gentle-man giving the lady his right hand. The waltz, that most graceful of all ' dances, is 6till popular, though each season . it takes on some different variation. This i season it will have more of the side step than ever before. "The waltz is the most - difficult of all dances to learn," says a i popular teacher of the art, "but when one s can waltz well, be is quite sure to be able l to go through any other dance gracefully." i "Imperial waitz, imported from the I Rhine," wrote Byron, and then went on to say a good many foolish things, which, wi'.chingly graceiul, and this grace is not entirely due to the fact that from a loute petite she has learned to dance, has had her little hands well cared for, has not been left to ill-nutured ill-nutured nurses, who are as lackinir in refinement refine-ment us they are in gentleness. These have had a ereat effect, no uoubf, but her clothes have played quite as Important a role as all of these combined. The Jiltttte aud the jtune fille are especially es-pecially considered by the French modiste. They have modistes of their own, fashions of their own, almost, one might say, materials materi-als of their own, soft cashmeres belonging almost exclusively to their province, and v hat their mothers wear is not considered necessary, as here, to reproduce in miniature for them. Simplicity is the distinctive feature of the French school girl's dress, no matter for what occasion it is. A silk frock is quite unknown to her, even her "party dress" is never dignified by such luxurious material, and whenever it is used, iu a supplementary sort of way, it is done most, spariugly. Her bodices are not the trim, boned affairs that some American girls affect, or their mothers do for them, for these maternal relatives rela-tives are usually the responsible parties for such affronts against good taste. Princess dresses, long, half-fitting waists, with full fronts or Fedoras, or guimpes these are what the French girl wears. With laee and (lowers and feathers she has little acquaintance, and Jess with jewelry. A few rings, a couple of porte bonheur bracelets, a few brooches aud stick-pins, are the contents of her jewel case. Her shoes for the street are plain kid, or else dark cloth with patent leather vamps. Her gloves are always well chosen as to tit, are always of Suede, and never of any color except pale gray or tan. Colored handkerchiefs handker-chiefs she shuns, and she has a like aversion A FAVORITE PARISIAN COMBINATION. Black, with colors, is a favorite Parisian combination, it is very effective on old blue of that shade seen in Bayeux tapestries. Narrow, black velvet ribbon trims a "baby" waist of India cashmere in this color, and is arranged to simulate a Vandyke yoke. The petticoat fastens over the corsage, and is trimmed top and bottom with bands of the ribbon. A hat of bronze velvet, with wide brim and projecting crown, is ornamented orna-mented with a roulade of blue crepe, wnich is drawn up in a loose bow on the side, and from which two black wings appear. Plaids will be used for girls this winter, and an especially pretty one has a white ground witu cross bar of navy blue and cheeks of crimson, the waists of plaid frock are prettiest when made simply, and ' on the bias of the goods, with a few'gaihers at the throat, and the fulness urawn into a pointed belt of blue velvet, to match the bands at the neck aud wrists. Brown felt, with a soft trimming of navy velvet and crimson wings can be worn with such a dress admirably. A BECOMING COAT. A coat that is becoming to most girls is of tabac-colored cloth, quite long, aud double-breasted, double-breasted, buttoned with large, brown, horn buttons. It is trimmed with revers, and a wide collar, faced with velvet of a darker shade. Three small capes adorn the sleeves. Soft erearny-white India camel's-iiair, with queer little Oriental figures embroidered on it in pale pink, green and gold, makes a pretty costume de fete. A little gathered flounce should trim it around the bottom, and the full waist should be belted with two bands of moss-green velvet. A fichu of embroidered em-broidered chiffon trims the neck, showing a glimpse of the throat, and ruffles of the chiffon adorn the short and exceedingly The Boudoir. A snug little room, with plenty of hangings, hang-ings, soft lights, perfumes and subdued colors that is the accepted idea of the ideal boudoir. Its furnishings should be all that is dainty nothing heavy, like the massive styles of Lombardy. Louis XV. and first empire furniture are certainly the prettiest styles for this cosy nook. And what pretty little conceit come in both! Queer little cabinets, for Jades and Japanese Japa-nese curios, if you, too, have had the Japanese Japa-nese craze; small chests for your collection of fans or bits of flimsy lace. And tables, with such slender little legs, carved, studded with medallions, or ornamented orna-mented with the small gift wreaths like those that adorned the chairs on which the First Napoleon 6at! The wise people say there's a place for everything and everything should be in its place, and, if that is so, all the dear little bobbins of colored silk, your tatting aud embroidery, em-broidery, and your needles and thread, will find the cosiest sort of quarters in a little modified Empire table, like the one pictured elsewhere. When it is open you can gaze at them, shoulder to shoulder, in tiny compartments, com-partments, like rows of well drilled soldiers on dress parade. Your thimble will lead the march as drum major; then the spools of colored silks will follow, and knitting, crocheting cro-cheting and sewing needles will bring up the rear as the artillery corps.- When you tire of gazing at all this army of capable assistants you can turn your eyea to the inside of the cover and behold the face of someone you know yourself, in a bevelled mirror. Then, when satisfied with that vision of loveliness, you can pull oul Ike lady's right arm should be nearly straight, without being stiff, and the hand should be held with the palm downward. The gentleman's left arm is sightly bent, with the elbow carried directly outward about six inches from his side. In this position posi-tion the gentleman places the palm of his left hand over the fingers of the lady's right hand, so that her fiusrers do not project beyond be-yond his, while his fingers gently ciasp the palm of the lady's little and ring linger, resting on the knuckles of the same. When this position is properly taken, and each holds the head perfectly straight, the couple are looking in the direction of each other's right shoulders. The man who holds his partner's hand out like a guide board or saws it up and down like the village pump is justly regarded with horror; and one offense of this sort i3 now considered sufficient to dump him outside out-side of the inner circle, and to make him a miserable life exle from the glory of the Patriarch' ball. She adopted the Jenuess-Miller cycle suit for her pony, and it Is the envy of aii the girls when on excursions, as they sit screwed ali out of harmony, and cannot dismount to drink from mountain streams because it is so much trouble to climb to their perch as-ain. In detail this suit is composed of full trousers, perhaps three feet in circumference circum-ference at the bottom, and reaching to the heel. Over these the skirt, which gains in being pleated instead of gathered, and is of heavy cloth, weighted and not very full. In front and back it is divided and each side hemmed up three-fourths of the length, and then the four corners are turned in when oa the horse, or they fall under naturally, and the effect is that of a pretty pleated skirt, more fan-shaped than the one previously mentioned. In walking, should the wind catch it, it is never awkward, and the under divided skirt mingles with it, so that no one would divine the nature of it. With these sensible skirts you are not obliged to wriggle into the stiff corseted bodice, but any manner of making the upper portion of the- garment may be adopted, provided it is long-waistcd and has a slender, trim effect. I Handsome New lrrs Materials. Certain new materials are appearing tentatively ten-tatively on the scene rough tweeds with |