Show BONNETS 1tlffS AND PETTICOATS The Rivalry in Sashes Girdles and Beits Victorian Headgear l New York Dec 4It is not everY I I s welldresse aressed woman who now the cold I weather has begun in earnest carries t a fur muff Those who do display per rectly round ones of very conservative size and always lined with some very sraylycolored satin A chinchilla muff with a cherry red or apple green center is considered a very pretty thing Indeed or a sober handwarmer of Persian lamb is made glorious with a pansy PurPle or deep orange yellow I i silk linlncr that ys often further dis i tinguished by vivid plaid stripings Just at the ends of the muffs where I fur and satin come together it is a commendable custom to set on a short IA thickpuffed flounce of black chiffon or cream and black lace intermingled A fresh lining and a little lace administered ad-ministered as above directed will by I the way work wonders in the freshening freshen-ing of well worn or demode fur muffs II and manv are the owners of such fur mutts and many are the owners of I such fur possessions who have personally I person-ally furnished them up with taste and I neatness to last triumphantly through I one or more seasons of hard use I MUFFS OF CLOTH SILK AND I SATIN But to return to the original theme which was not fur muffs Velvet satin and cloth are the materials from I vhich the greater number are marie and those of odd shape and quaint I trimming are more and more numerous I as the season progresses Dressmakers compound them from whatever the dufcs fabric may be and they usually I adopt the bar or reticule muff as the br st pattern Such a muff is lined with i I a scrap of bright brocaded silk then I around the openings where the hands J eter frills of lace or accordeon plaited I chiffon are whipped or to increase the dreoation loops of ribbon fringes or j very small fur tail encircle each orij fice ficeTh The top of this species of muff that t i is where it gathers up to give tnj bag I j effect is arranged quite like thp mouth of a reticule A ribbon or better still a glided chain drVAS c h I fulnoss of the material togeth T < s about the wearers neck ani the rp of the muff really Stones as a I rg i t bag or at any rate it will hnki a handkerchief a purse and even opera gasses with no irconvenience A f ow hT bows of ribbon loops of fur iuie I rl or otnich tips or maybe a bht t v M 1 tl hud are any or all utilised 1o I o ix nt the outside and front of this i c iirisite muff that looks not wholly uik2 a thirtre hat PICTURE BONNETS pi ger and bigger and undoubted ftru beautiful still grow the Victorian b inicts every week They seem hw cyr the exilusive prpperty of very young slender girls whose skins are fh enough to need no screen of iulio sine vjilg are never worn with this headgear and whose hair falls int natural bob curls about the blow There was a motion put and almost can ed rcently with a view of dorg axa y with hatwearing bri iesfa ls but 1 this winters brides have iU been ah to resist the blandishments of they the-y it t01 im shape and its picturesque 1 ji > = > ilities One from a weidmg Y gioiip is here given merely to show them the-m st oppiovcd method of applying the very extensive trimmings end th size to which these bonnets do grow Against a shape of violetcolored beaver long pali blue plumes ai3 laid and with cream lace pink silk poppies and ivory white satin ribbon this crown of millinery glory is made complete com-plete In sharpest contrast to these towering tower-ing structures and ail the other tribe of large Inter hats that without exception ex-ception fiure exaggeratedly up from the face are the most novel walking hats caps thy should rather be call d made all of bird breasts and clnginij like a nilitary fatigue cap all about to the head To one side of course a X fountain of mingled osprey plumbs or 1 a tuft of ribbon bows rises high springing Invariably from a wheel shaped brooch of steel or large circular cir-cular jewelad pin FUR TRIMMINGS It seemed at the beginning of the H J I 7 A d1I2 I Iii t t I i t g I I PUS TflThIED GOWN season as if fur was not to be ussrl i even sparhgy as a dress tiimmmg I but now and cgain one fees it creeping I creep-ing Ir The newest sleeve top for n ctaiee is a tiny epaulet of velvet folded In thee paJt and from every plait sprin a fn tail If any woman has a piece of err er-r ae broad ta2 or mink she is at at a loss to make use of let her insert it asa as-a vest in her very best calling suit or use It to face one very large rever turning back over the left breast The very last cry of fashion is fur cuffs on any style of gown and now that every bther skirt shows simulated square or rounding redingote tails it is the popular popu-lar thing to edge the tails with fur or Uy a band of it on the front of the skirt only across the front widths A reference to the redingote effect on I skirts is clearly indicated in one of the sketches given this week Here the skirt is of green satin finished cloth cut in the new three and threequarter I yards width which is the last standard stand-ard and its back fullness is gathered closenot plaitedfolds of the cloth are simply laid on the side breadths in two sides of a square and thus any suggestion of the old untrimmed skirt is avoided for the petticoats innocent of all decoration like the bolero and full top sleeve is going fast The truth is that a short undecorated skirt is now only seen on the streets never at receptions weddings balls or dinners Those of such heavy material as silk and thick woolen goods that do not lend themselves nicely to ruffles and braid is no longer the alldesired ornament orna-ment it once was take flounces of chiffon and light silk The waist that accompanies the skirt I in this weeks picture iskof white silk bearing a green satin stripe to match the skirt Between the high belt and oddly pretty collar all the body is of white chiffon striped perpendicularly with bands of black lace while curving lines are boldly described Lace and chiffon form the jabot down the left side and these same materials constitute consti-tute the sleeve tops GIRDLING THE WAIST There is a lively struggle on just now between the jeweled belt the sash and the last comer in the shape of a closely folded velvet girdle that has a great corsage bow on the left side drawn through a buckle resplendent with mock jewels The sash certainly has the first rights among the young people and the slender slen-der women and stout wear jeweled beHs but the corsage bow and girdle is a sore temptation to any feminine soul and now into its jeweled center an < l velvet midst knots of artificial flowers are introduced Worn with the plainest little evening dress such a girdle both refreshens and glorifies it Of violet pansy plaid shot and shaded velvet these beguiling fixins are made up and sold in the shops or divers di-vers girdles can be literally hatched out of the savings of former hats and costumes cos-tumes and every woman should possess pos-sess one or more NEW LONG CLOAKS Here is a word to the wise if she is an individual who finds it necessary to wear a long cloak during the winter and must now have a new one Let her remember that the moujik or Russian blouse shape has extended its influence even to the new ulsters of the plainest I sort and as well to the long and elegant ele-gant fur trimmed wraps The ulster must blouse liberally at front and back over a rather wide leather or braided belt that runs through loops sewed on in the region of the waist line It can button double or single breasted and its high storm collar should be lined I with curled goats hair Cloaks of velvet vel-vet cut on this pattern trimmed with black fox fur and belted with jewels are being made up for wear by the very I modish so soon as the sleighing and skating season sets in PRETTY FRIPPERY Added to the brooch in her black hair adopted to hold the short straws in tidiness and free from her coat collar every second woman now carries dangling dang-ling from her long neck chain a gold latchkey Some of these futile and frivolously pretty trinkets that were never made to open any lock ever seen by land or sea have the hoop or the handle set with jewels Less expensive ones are of silver with enamedel tops and some of these do turn in the locks of escritoires or open pretty boxes where jewels and precious letters are kept Their purpose however is a small matter and they promise to become be-come as all pervading as the heart lockets were and the clover leaf pend I I ants now are Besides this frippery it is plain as day that within six months we will all be wearing our watches tucked into our belts and from them will hang old style fobs A black ribbon fob with a gold or silver slide and a bunch of fine old seals is the proper arrangement already al-ready adopted by many and the jwel ers are busy designing quaint seals for tire Christmas trade 1 Undoubtedly the very highest point I I of extravagance has been reached 5i petticoat making trimming those af i silk having lace and chiffon flounces I with narrow bands of fur But while I extravaganc rushes to one extreme j solid common sense has brought us anew I a-new and excellent niorin for underskirt I under-skirt fabrication that is as thick and soft as satin and is charmingly decorated I deco-rated in all the best plaid combinations I For walking its advantages are mani fold and as it comes double width it j I can be cut on the now pattern That is I with but two seams running down j either hip The shape of this < = kiri t tie 1 mauds that it be cut crosswise of the i material and because of its peculiar 1 shape it fits as snug as a yoke about 1 the hips but flares comfortably and I gracefully at the foot Such a moreen 3ktrt stands the hardest wear and is trimmed usually with flounces of its own goods or plaid silk I A word should also oe said in commendation I com-mendation of a new and charming wool and cotton crepe interwoven with gold I and silk threads Its hlgnly appropriate appropri-ate name is Zenana cloth Its sur I face web of gilt and colored threads on the cream background shows out in good semioriental designs and suggests sug-gests this as a capital fabric for theatre the-atre waists and tea gowns There is no secret in telling that it sells for a trifle over half a dollar a Gard and combines delightfully with velvets of all shades as collars and girdles gir-dles The making of the new velvet collar col-lar however calls for a change of arrangement ar-rangement The prettiest hook round the throat to the left of the chin are held very high by whalebone inserted on the inside and where the conjunction conjunc-tion is made a swallowtail threecor nered or arrow head shaped point of velvet must jut out conspicuously A bunch of violets not a big bunch but with plenty of grepn leaves and planted directly behind tne left ear is the very latest fancy in head dressing dressingTh ft Irs I-rs 0 I 747 y f4 caA ° 1 t C 1 7T 4 i I vII < L 711 f I VICTORIAN SOirarST Women with fine absolutely straight locks now appear of an evening with abroad a-broad snowy part well on one and that usually the left side of the head From this the hair is brushed and rolled roll-ed with glittering smoothness back toward and then up from the nape Finally it is caught in tight shining coils in the rear and held by a series of combs that have rhinestones set in I their tops M DAVIS |