Show II irI I F r O IP o J I 1111 l FOREIGN FASHIONS zuiEss lROJIEXAD ox THE 1EDI lEIUtA E COAST siiy Superb Purls Confection Are First Exhibited fly the Southern ScaThe Antithesis ol the Adored Blouse Nice April GLight clear like the tinkling of hells air of balm and a blua sea caressing the beach with the soft song of a lullaby This is the Mediterranean Mediter-ranean shore while winter still has Paris by the hair and it is all It was Jong ago when the White Saracens roameti1 the coast for the lotus It island ft is-land of dreams where there is always i f afternoon And this is why the unfortunate unfor-tunate of earth make it a spring rendezvous ren-dezvous French Fashions Uy the Soil I The dressmakers Cf Paris have sent I dawn their chefsduvres for what may foe called their annual Salon The women of the promenades seem special creations Each is a masterpiece master-piece of art The womao is not distinguished dis-tinguished from the dress and it does not rest with her face to make her pretty or ugly I She and her dress are I one all is harmonized each part en hancing every other tha face takes its Place as a detail and the result is that I t every woman is beautiful This 15 the triumph of art in dress I This dress is the quintescence of ithe fashion an apotheosis of the hours ideal Whoever can imitate it can hops for no farther success How it is conceived how the details of it formed > y various hands are made to fall into SUCh unity is still ithe secret oi Paris If this secret is ever ours Paris will no longer set the fashion A Symphony in Ulaclc and Gray This very harmony of parts makes description more difficult Does one analyze tine Greuze There came this morning < 3 > wn the Cornfche road a woman wo-man in skirt or gray cloth whose amplitude am-plitude broke round her in a thousand I swaying folds a blouse of mauve flowered l flow-ered over with lilac in pale tint the f j pattern lined out with threads of gold 11 crame of black velvet graylined and garlanded w th a black lumed Medicis ruche and on the hair that fell each I Tr side in Iwaves and gave to the face a trua oval a toque all black with long sfoaup wings of gauze and jet set outwards out-wards and downwards like in number and direction to the wings of the Vision Vis-ion of Ezekiel How to imitate this or even to tell ihow it is done Other Toilet Arc A skirt of tobatco brown serge with a cape of brown velvet enriched with jet and a black neapolitan hat turned up behind with a mass of roses The hat has a large black velvet rosette on 1 each side joined by a sort of vehet bridge over the top from which rises I an I tlhe center a tall black pompon thin as a smoke spiral the cape behind reaches < to nhe waist and slopes slightly slight-ly longer towa L3 the front in the line of a parabola enlivening by this means the back view with a glimpse of tho cream silt lining of the front and the jet Sipplique covers the upper part of tflie garment its outlined parallel to the capes edge and a standing jet collar col-lar breaks o eion each side in a large square that extends out over each shoulder like a shelf WTth the same brown serge skirt a j J i S FOR A MORNING STROLL blouse of brown silk braided all over an a Jabyrinth pattern with white silk braId Saih braiding is easily done and is very effective the braid is flat and of the sort woven like a shoestring Another day the same skirt with a louse of chamois colored cloth innocent inno-cent of trimming boxplaited and drooping over the belt all the way round so that the belt is concealed A The sleeve is longer and close at the tJa wrist The effect of this blouse is absolutely ab-solutely Stunning 4 A Young Girls Gown For a young girl A wedgewood lookIng look-Ing gown of bluish gray camels hair the skirt acid sleeves plain the blouse ibraidod all over with white braid as described above cape of the same blue lined wxth white camels hair and black sailor hat with white ribbon rosettes ro-settes Black cloth skirt black velvet sleeves to the elbow formed of one huge puff blouse of grayblue silk and round the nook a ruche of black crimped crimp-ed chiffon and ribbon made with a ruffle ruf-fle that lies out round the shoulders J and ends that go down the front each j side to fasten near the belt with a ro eette aad give the effect of a little bolero bo-lero long gray gloves ana large black hat trimmed with hollyhocks of deep red This 5s a fashionable combi iationi of color and makes r t nretty picture It needs oilly a toaek ound Try this An Kalian chateau very white set an a grove of olives gray green la middle distance a Monsieur in beige overcoat cut of London black worsted morning dress and linen shirt grayblue followed by a stag hound form of dog very much the mode Carriage toilette of gray silk marked pryith black delicately garnished with violet satin to narrow folds oa ithe skirt edge and a deep yoke with epaulettes felling upon the sleeves1 embroidered I with gray and ibounki ivlTh violeL velvet vel-vet This yoke Is a separate garment v t linekl and finished < by itself iand isput j on over the bodice as an extra wrap I IIt t I I I 44 44r The dress is completed with a black laice neck ruche jet bonn gray gloves that meet the sleeve at ithe elbow el-bow and black parasol of satin and IceAnother Another carriage toilette All black has skirt and sleeves of satin and blouse of lace covered with irridescent spangles Black bonnet with cerise roses lace parasol tan gloves riLe Great Chic The blouse is one of the ohief preoc cuipialtions of dress and to be able to wear one that is novel is to reath the high point of success To achieve a novelty in this direction all ingenuity I is turned while the skirt for the moment mo-ment stereotyped is left to ftself I have seen a sensation made all the i j length of the Promenade des Anglais j I I aIlUIlU makes the waist look by contrast small and this contrast of apparent width across the shoulders with the small waist is a characteristic at the style Severe Skirts These gray blouses seem to demand not only the skirts but the hats also to be of light color and perhaps this is the reason so many hats are black Later in the season this may be different differ-ent But appropos of hats it may I be remarked as a sign of the fashion that there is no longer a similarity of color sought to ibe established between the halt and the gown Onse with a brown gown went a brown hat but now there is nothing of the sort The hat has a neutral basis either of white or black and its flowers or velvet rosettes are so dhosen as to form a harmonious contrast with almost any gown one have in the wardrobe Evening Dress Gowns for evening are of flowered silk with atxveseories of velvet and chiffon or of plain satin in plain tints with lace and velvet Often with skirt Ian I-an < 1 sleeves of flowered silk the bodice is a decollete blouse of lace over plain I color as over old rose when the silk is I flowered with rose Some gowns are made without sleeves but only the I skilled dressmaker knows how to sub f9 I 1 1 i iiLAO I iclip pl O 114 A Lute Picture of Harriet Beeclier Stowe V3io is Said to be Rapidly Failing toy a simiple blouse of gray flannel Simply gray flannel and nothing more I It drooped over the belt like the chain j ols colored one described albove it was I I cut very long on the shoulders so that I I IL1e armhole was far down on the arm I i in 1S40 fashion and the sleeve that was shirred full Into the armhole was like 1 a ishoPs full and baggy clear down to the wrist where it was gathered into 1 a turnover cuff A bit of dahlia velvet j circled the neck It was isolated from I any possible concurrence of color by ii skirt and hat all blade Its sole claim to attention was its quaintness and simplicity But he subtleminded woman wo-man knows that in the midst of luxurious luxu-rious dress these are the very qualities quali-ties to draw attention and give an effect ef-fect of distinction I recall on this head that at the Salon Vermis age last year one of the gowns most remarked for I style was a checked flannel It was black and white and made with a I blouse nolar to this and a skirt cut to a flare a la mode It was quaint and for this reason It was more stared at tfhan the pictures Its wearer was quite hors concours Flowered SIlks I In the way vf material for blouses the great < vogue is for silks covered with large designs as flowered patterns I pat-terns and plaids For evening are Louis XVI designs I have seen a I ravishing dinner blouse in this style on a white ground It was made with I plait on each side turned towards the middle and the space < between was j cut out in front to form a square neck It that was filleed with lace The collar band was of the silk covered with I Uhese exquisite little roses in pink and green ribbon such as trimmed the I gowns of Marie Antoinette and the Bam roses bordered the square and I edged the plait on each side from the I shoulder to the belt The sleeve an I enormous puff to the elbbw was looped loop-ed with rosettes of the same ribbon hen Gay Blouses Lrge plaids are much worn A model is one of blue and white barred with black It is draped diagonally and has collar and band and belt of I h1l pirI t Japanese patterns are beautiful for these blouses and Japanese foulards and cottons should be in demand this coming summer The chances are that as the Japs are for the moment more A t D I AFTJERAOOX COSTUME occupied with lighting than with producing pro-ducing the price of their stuffs will go up in the market and lbe available only to long l purses A word to the wise while there is time White blouses of plain material may drop over the belt those of large patterns pat-terns have usuallyai velvet belt rather wide The reason is that a large pattern pat-tern increases the apparent size of the figure and this Increase is an adv n age round the shoulders but not round the waist A dark velvet belo < r > = L < < t stitute for a sleeve a series of ribbon I ruffles to produce the necessary effect A gown made by Paquin Is of pale blue satin The cut of the skirt 5s remarkable remark-able The deep godets are creased so that they fall like a halfopened ran but the outer lines are not straight like those of a fan but curve outward in a flight concave as they descend and they fall round the wearer like a succession of blades set round a cylinder cylin-der I cannot say hOw it is done but might suggest that the lining has been so carefully prepared as to be almost a mold The front has a seam down the middle where two bias edges corns a I r A LUNCHEON TOILET I together Over this falls a transparency transpa-rency formed of alternate breadths of white lace and white mussellne de sole embroidered with mauve The bodice has the neck square In front and round behind and 5s finished with a bertha of lace and the mauve embroidered mus lin headed by a twist of deep pansy velvet Pansy velvet belt and in one corner of the neck a bunch of flowers in geranium color shading down to brown The bertha ruffles form the sleeves Highnecked dinner gowns have a square neck cut out and filled in with laice and a high neckband of velvet like a blouse described above A COnvenient con-venient idea is illustrated by a gown of black mousseline de sole that has a yoke of very open jet passementerie The blatek lining is cut along the edge of the yoke and down the middle so that it can be turned back at will tb give an effect to deccollete Quantities of mack jewels Jeweled passementeries and irridescent spangles span-gles are used on these materials for evening wear massed principally upon the blouse front The Character of the Mode TVfcat is to be especially remarked tcf the demiseason dress is that it is a development de-velopment of ithe past winders fashions fash-ions rather than the beg1nnin of anew a-new style To this fact it owes much of its beauty A style condnueg to improve up to a certain ipolnt For when ideas are firrft put out they are often crude and have for sole attraction attrac-tion 1 their novelty but litle by little tlhe forms improve straight lines becoming be-coming curves and curves growln more refined An illustration in point is the historyof the gaddt an element on which the qiresent style is principally princi-pally based In tflie < beginning it wag I an eccentric flare they made it by cutting cut-ting a round Piece ofcloth into a spiral spi-ral and opening out the spiral into a Straight line It was very amusing this new way of making fullness without with-out gathers but ifi was also very aggressive ag-gressive and ugly One has only to look at the coat collar cut two years ago to know how ugly it was But today tO-day the goet is refined down to the tenderest of curves and whether in skirt or cloak it half loses itself Jn mingling gathers I Later on there will be novelties Certain Cer-tain ones are talked of already but not the very wisest not even the great dressmakers and the arUsts who design de-sign these novelties can say in advance ad-vance which of all offered will succeed Last year there were efforts ait novelty that were blunders Many women ruined ru-ined their gowns with overskirt basks and made themselves look jut a little I rMlcuIous It is wisest to go slow The blame for last years mistakes is laid to a certain great dressmaker I well known to Americans who is fond of voluminous draplngs The issue I I shttwa that no dressmaker is great enough to change the ctyle of dress by his own will it requires the willingness of society as well I The dress being worn at Nice seems to give evidence of a style at its climax cli-max Its elements have Increased in I I both exaggeration and beauty till now they seem complete If this as so it Is I time for a collapse and a beginning On what are we going to build next I Some say the style Marie ADA Antoinette CONE I |