Show ThLllONICOS CLOSED FOREVER Memories That Came With Passing of the Famous Eating House New York JournaL The closing of what was once known as Uptown Delmonicos does away with the most famous eating house In the western hemisphere and undoubtedly undoubt-edly one of the best known In the whole world Delmonico came to this country seventytwo years ago and in nine res o < i tLi 1 o I taurants New Yor has waged a const rit battle agaInst AmerIcas national na-tional diseaseclyspepsla It was not always the samE Delmonico whp presided pre-sided over the establishment but the same traditions prevailed whichever member of the family was there Though Delmonicos has changed Its I location often it has not changed its habits What an Interchange or experiences experi-ences and expressions of emotions there must have been among the ghosts ot the Old Guards Monday night as a gloomy walter bowed out the last guest and closed the place forever It will no doubt give place to a skyscraper or a 1 tailors shop or a saloon Already real estate men are sniffing around It and calculating Wright Sanford one of the leer Beau Brummels America has rJoduced was I leader of Delmonicos Old Guard He never did a stroke of work In bIg life He and John Hoey Jose Mona Abraham Abra-ham H Hummel James Keene Frank Work FrederIck Gebhard and Chancy 08borne the father of Howell Osborne made up a brIlliant company or gourmet gour-met that has never been beaten In the I art of knowIng how to eat It was to Sanford that Mrs LangLey was consigned when she cameo to this country but she soon found some ono who was more attractive She was w frequent visitor at Delmonicos In the fine dining hall was served the Holland dinner the Chamber of Commerce dinner din-ner and the annual pOlice dinner Though many or the men who ate the latter dId not know ham and from trufUes the dinner was always the best of the year and the policemen had gourmet guests In private room on theo upper floors there were held some of the biggest poker games on record For years ono little coterleAbe HummE1 was In It met every Saturday night and the very biggest kind of play took place Thousands were won and lost No ono would ever say how much ac it is bad form in New York to name the amounts oC card losses In the restaurant the sporting millionaire mil-lionaire hobnobbed with his jOlkeys2 following out the dictum or Admiral Rouss that aU men are equal on the turf and under It One of the invariable point about DelmOnicos has always been Its c1ean aputaUon When Offen bach the French leratio compOSer had rooms In the wcntrsixth street place ho wished to give dinners to women members of the company that produced his music but he did not provIde for chaperones The dinners were countermanded by the management Offenbach moved in ru i rage to the Hotel BruIJ5wlck and shortly short-ly afterward went back to France awl wrote indignant letters to the papers there denouncing AmerIcan PuritanIsmt Delmonicos never had any better advertisement ad-vertisement During the last four or five years the sportIng element made its headquarters headquar-ters In the restaurant more than vr before The Wall street men who had clustered therE so long transferred thpil trade at about the same time to the ValdorfAstQria where it now remaIns The sporting crowd will no doubt gO back agaIn now to the Hoffman house More appetites have been4cuItivate at the Deimonlcos just closed than I anywhere else that American good liv era can suggest At the downtown places there was always a long Ion counter laden with tarts at which sandwIches and other hurried lunches could be had but in Twentysixth street the dining was more dignified and formal 1t is a notable fact that Delmonico has never sued a custom for food supplied A man well recommended recom-mended can get credit for a month After that if he fails to pay the account ac-count is closed A woman of doubtful hearing will be treated politely there The waiter will deferentially take her orderand never come back If a second sec-ond walter Is pressed into service hI too gets lost Very soon tIle customEr disappears too All the European celebrities cel-ebrities who have visited us good and bad have been seen there by the hab itues of Delmonlco8 in Tentysixth street Lord 1landeYilIe Lord LonsdalE the Duke of larlboroughthe present and the lastwere its guests One or the few families whose members were rarely seen there was the Vanderbilt family |