Show It SOME LATE FASHION liNTS O l Dress of Fashionable Women at the Summer Resorts TO WEM BEFORE LUNCH Ilulos in Regard Style That Obtain This Season Varied and Dainty 2fpclciroar Dellciously j Tcminhie Combinations of Silk and 1 Lace of llibboii ami Mull Possibilities Pos-sibilities of the Parnsolctto f Many shirt waists are good things to provide yourself with this season Fashion Fash-ion rules that the shirt waists if worn t without a jacket belong distinctly to those hours which precede the midday meal and that it makes little difference of what material it is fashioned so that it is fresh Calico mull or gingham I they are all good form Skirts of all kinds are worn with these but no one should make the mistake from an artistic standpoint of wearing a shirt and skirt in color nearly alike As for instance a white muslin shirt waist with a light tan skirt The effect is bad MORNING DRESS IN HELIOTROPES On the other hand shirt and skirt maybe may-be exactly alike in color if they differ in fabric I saw a dashing morning costume Iiti Ii tIii y J GOWN OF SPRIGGED MUSLIN fj tr yesterday of shirt waist and skirt made 4 for a woman who is in second mourning and will spend her summer quietly at her j cottage at Bar Harbor The skirt was of darkest heliotrope diagonal cloth lined I With taffeta the lower half being formed of a bias ruffle laid on without fulness On the edge of this ruffle were five rows > of narrow black silk braid with three rows at the head The shirt waist of heliotrope he-liotrope silk shot through with black was designed in the newest way having the front pieces plain and straight gathered in at the shoulders without lining the I folded Quaker handkerchiefwise across 1 the breast passed around the waist to the I back then brought in frontand tied in a di rectoire bow either in front or at the side The neck piece which could be left out if desired leaving it vshaped LI was of theplin chemisette order The bishop sleeves were quite full and confined con-fined at the waist with a twist of black silkThis This morning gown will serve a double purpose as it is not especially for the house having been designed in the linen line-n i jf ti i I HBIIOTKOPB WOOL AND SILK i of English country house morning dress 4 vhere women appear at breakfast in 2 suitable attire for any walking excursion that may be planned A Paul Jones hat 1 of dark heliotrope with rosettes and quills of black will be worn with it for driving or walking If the salt air is a trifle I strongj as It frequently is at Bar Harbor i she will slip a sleveleas bolero of the cloth over her waist q A DARK TAILORMADE SKIRT GOES i The governing rule is that one should 1 I never confound afternoon wear with morning As many degrees of difference i lie between them as between evening and afternoon dress As I said shirt waists are in good taste j and one cannot have too many of them I and they may be made as simply or as 1 elaborately as one wishes But a woman is not to wear with themtny old skirt she may happen to have Many think 1 this an economical plan for wearing ont ones second best clothes but only a plaint plain-t dark cloth goes desirably with a shirtwaist shirt-waist I dont mean that one is to throwaway her stock of skirts and get new ones fort 1 for-t morning wear but only to use those that are dark and tailormade A light one t < c i I turned and dyed often makes a satisfac W > tory one Hopsacking or eaU Sloth are P most used for morning It should be remembered 11 re-membered In making a skirt of the for 1 i jmer that it shrinks much and that duet due-t allowance has to be made I If yon aregoing to be at homo for the morning wear the shirt waists that have rolledover collars or broad sailors Keep your high collars and stockties for I shopping or walking HOW ONE WELL DRESSED WOMAN PLANS I asked a woman whom you can always find well dressed at any time of the morn inir how many before luncheon gowns she had and how they were made She quickly replied One dress but many accessories As I looked surprised she explained < This skirt of hop sacking is well made p and well lined therefore durable and i a r parenthetically good lining is half the battle in the wear of a skirt I have a dozen shirt waists eight of wash goods four lined ones of silk some are made stiff starched and mannish others are soft limp and feminine Then 1 have a short Kanditz jacket for outdoor wear made of the hopsacking hopsack-ing heavily trimmed with Hercules braid and linedwlth black and white silk aV59 cents a yard this I slip over my shirtwaist shirt-waist cambric or silk When the day is cool or I want a change I put on a heavy corded vest of silk double breasted like a mans and with this gpfes a white or blue I chemisette anda fourinhand tie And last but most durable I have a tight fitting waist of the satin buttoned under the arm and over the shoulder with small gutta percha buttons and black atm cuffs and collar So you see my dress is not E pluribus unum but mul tumin parvo TEX CENT SPRIGGED MUSLINS TheTioTsunimer mornings at any resort re-sort bring out a great array of cambrics and muslins I do not mean the pink and fjj VELVET AND LACE COBMINED blue lawns with their satin bows and lace trimming for these are emphatically for the tea table but the refreshing sprigged muslins ranging in price from 10 to 40 cents a yard that any woman can make and any laundress can wash these are always good form in the morning no matter where you are They are not worn in the street now as formerly one reason being the impossibility of keeping them fresh I saw the daintiest kind of one yesterday It was of white lawn with tiny pink sprig in it The rather full skirt had five bias flounces scantily laid on each one finished at the bottom with a narrow ruffle of embroidery and at the top with a crushed fold of the muslin The oldfashioned French surplice waist give a full shoulder effect and a wide crushed satin belt finished off this fresh looking costume The wearer told me that she had six of these simple muslin gowns that they were only 12K cents a yard and she had them made up at home There WAS a morning dress our mothers worethat is not to be despised It was J 1 I THE COTTAGE FOOTSTOOL the princess wrapper of white lawn with its dainty rufflQ of embroidery going down the entire front its ruffled turnover turn-over collar relieved oftirnes by an Eton tie of silk and its turnedback cuffs at the wrist also ruffled This was the standard morning dress in those days and many women cling to it yet for its ease and coolness In those years women owned dozens of white cambric underskirts and corset covers These dear elderly women rely now on the short halffitting sacque of lawn wearing it to breakfast and during the earlier morning hours THE GINGHAMS Gingham gowns are being worn extensively exten-sively this year as morning toilettes When a walk or drive is in the forenoon plan they are matched with a broad brimmed sailor hat and a white parasol I THE RIVAL OF THE FAN I have seen some parasols most suitable for these costumes of pure Indian pongee in its original cream color the handle being be-ing of carved burnt ivory They make the best sort of parasols to go with ginghams ging-hams or white yachting suits as they stand the most severe wetting Other white gowns to be worn until luncheon J time and suitable for outdoor pleasure are of white pique with bolero jacket and full white dotted Swiss shirt waists Several suits of pique have been made up in tailor style the broad seams doublestitched on the outside but in the opinion of some women they are the warmest gown to be found and are extremely ex-tremely stiffINDIAN INDIAN PONGEES Quite a number of fashionables are getting get-ting Indian pongee for morning gowns The genuine goods cost from 1 to 150 a yard but last for two generations They are being made up with narrow and wide silk braids 1 faaw a dashing gown of the pongee making for a leader of the Southern set here who is going White Sulphur Valor Va-lor thesummer It was made up ritli dark green the hat wa a wide rough straw of green trimmed wheat and green leaves She also will have one of the pongee parasols to go with it MORNING WEAR FOR THE STREET It depends on where a woman spends r t her summer as to what she shall wear on the street At a summer resort or in a small town one can shop or drop in to see ones friend in a white pique or dainty gingham But in a large city strictest fashIon demands that plain dark colors be worn before luncheon on the street I no matter how warm the day may be Dark shirt waists even without the jacket are good form on the street very light cambric or silk shirt waists must be accompanied by a jacket China silk in gowns of solid color are i worn but not when figured i Wear no gown with much trimming on he street A woman wants to be dressed as perfectly in the morning as in the evening and morning wear demands simplicity of elegance Give 150 for your morning gown if you wish to but have it made perfectly plain If any trimming is used let it be braid Lace is not worn in the morning except on a neglige robe No jewelry is permissible per-missible except engagement or wedding wed-ding ring and the stick pins thatso many women have adopted for their very usefulness ulness Beyond this keep a lock and key on your jewel casket until the lamps are lighted It is by these little things we women are judged even by the arrangement of the hair It should be worn in the simplest way in the morning A low plaited coil at the back of the head is best when faces require it on top the head let it be put there in the simplest mannernot with gilt hair pins or gold combs but with dark tortoise shell fastening BREAKFAST DRESS FOR MATRONS One useful breakfast dress that I should include is much worn by matronsthe matinee These dresses are made of soft cloths that fall in easy folds crepons for instance in-stance They are gathered loosely in at the shoulders front and back and confined at the waist by ribbons or a fancy belt The elbow sleeves hang full from the shoulders caught just below the elbow with a ribbon band These matinees have all the lace about them the wearer wishes However loops of narrovr satin ribbons are the bettor style hese robes are graceful airy and comfortable but they are only worn at breakfast or in ones own room HARRYDELE HALLMARK |