Show WOMEN OF FASHION Wear Loose and Flowing Mantles Over Their Shoulders THE PRETTY CHARLES IX CAPE A Fashion Such as Thle Is the Delight of Women With Bad Figures Summer Silk ft Most Popular Material For THE SUNDAY HERALD Copyrighted 7 SIDE FROM THE J 0 convenient little blazer which every i1 ir woman has in her wardrobe it would seem as if tho dictates dic-tates of fashion forbade anything that was not loose and flowing in its outlines All 1 the mantles capes and mantlettes as well I as the collar capes are long and loose enveloping en-veloping the figure in a mass of folds and completely hiding it Of coursen fasnion like this is the do light of women with bad figures and for the time being they find themselves able to put on a very fashionable appearance a When it was the style to wear long tight fitting coats they were in despair because the coats were so trying that they found that by no amount of cunning work could the modiste make a bad figure appear like a good one But with the long loose cape all this is I different A woman may have a baggy figure a bulky waist arms as shapeless as sausages and a scraggy nerk or what is i much worse a thickset neck and yet when she puts on one of these enveloping capes she appears as stylishly draped and as shapely as the woman who has a figure liko the Medici Women with very pretty figures are disgusted dis-gusted at the turn that fashion has taken and are doing all they can to circumvent it with little artifices One of their latest is such a cunning idea that it is worth calling I to the notice of every woman with a pretty shape IT IS DIGNIFIED b y being called a mantle although it is so diaphanous and filmy that it is scarcely worthy the name It is ever so pretty though and many women will like to copy it because it veils > the dress giving the ap p arance of a wrap without concealing at all the beauties of the figure or the bodice It is made of two deep lace flounces The under flounce falls from the collar down to a point halfway between the waist and tho knees Tho second flounce is likewise joined j to the collar butitextends only well down over the shoulders Any kind of fine filmy laco may be used and if so desired the laco may be beaded If this is done the mantle is held in place and does not blow about with each motion of tho wearer or at the slightest wind but it is not as light or as filmy BO treated and consequently it is not a great favorite for the summer r 7Z s 1 I 17 7 I CHARLES IX MANTLE The mantle is supplied with a very high medici collar which is likewise of laco and is supported by a fine invisible wire The entire collar is made upon a wire framo work which is put together in the samo fashion as are the delicate wire frames which are used as a foundation for lace toques If desired the collar can bo lined I with some shade of fine summer silk such as is so popular this summer for lining capes collars and wraps The mantle is supplied with ribbon strings These may be tied in a large bow at one side leaving the mantle open to dis play the front of the bodice When so done I the mantle is in the style of Charles IX and the wearer will find that her neck ur rangeinont will resemble the old court pic I tures of the lords and ladies who surround ed Charles when the latter held high festival festi-val If desired the strings may bo tied closely in a knot and the medici collar can be persuaded to curve outward a little to accommodate the wearers neck and chin These very deep collars are becoming to I women of all styles When first they came I in vogue it was supposed they would not become popular with women nlllicted with L too great cmlmHmitit but to tho surprise of even such dressmakers as Wortii and Felix these collars have proved bo becoming and have consequently grown into favor I itism with women of all styles ANOTHER SUMMER CAIE I which has become the summer woman C ideal because it veils her dress without I I concealing it consists of three deep lac flounces instead of two In this caso the flounces were sewed on a ground work of black net one flounce overlapping the other few inches Our only a grandmothers wore capes similar to these and the style like many other of the old fashions is again amongst us Still another variety of capes or manta lettes is made of colored India silk These are not filmy and they have the old fault of concealing the figure and the bodice but they are extremely pretty and becoming and are moreover so inexpensive that a woman may havo half a dozen of them in her wardrobe ana yet have paid less for them than for ono lace mantle A very pretty colored India silk cape Was of old roso hue All around tho bottom there were three rows of black jet stars The cape was edged with black passemen terie a deep jet fringe extended from the collar over the shoulders and a very narrow nar-row row of the fringe was used to outline the shoulder puffs with which the cape was provided This heavy supply of jet upon so light a material as India silk may seem incongruous incongru-ous and for those to whom the combination of jet and silk does not recommend itself there comes a very pretty trimming of chen ille Chenille dots may be used in place o < the jet and chenille fringe may take the place of the jot trimming around the edge f the cape and on tho neck and sleeves I If one sodeslres the dots may be embroid red in silk of the same shade as the cape A cape BO treated IS EXTKEMELT DELICATE AND TRETTT ana can be vorn as a house wrap all winter win-ter when thinevening dresses are worn or with decollette gowns ii C A GLORIFIED OUTING DRESS At tho races a few days ago there appeared appear-ed a dress which had come straight from Paris It had been worn only once on the other sidejust to give it a Parisian flavor Tho ono occasion when it made its appearance appear-ance was at tho races atLongchatnps and the owner having had it made for a racing gown decided to wear it as such in tnis country although it was more delicate and dressy than American ivoinen generally wear when they go forth on such an expedition expedi-tion tionTho Tho dress itself was of grey silk very tight fitting and scant in the skirt Extend ng all around the skirt there was a hem about eighteen inches deep bordered by a band of line gold embroidery The embroidery embroid-ery consisted horizontal lines with very delicate tracery outlined between them There Was a girdle of tho gold embroidery and a deep fringe of lace fell over the bust The gold lace was fastened on perfectly straight acrcss the bust so that it gave the waist almost the effect of a yoke There was a straight standing collar outlined with tho gold cord Over the tight fitting dress fell a lovely tunic of Lyons lace The tunic was cut if one can imagine such a thingin almost the same shape as the ordinary ulster which one sees upon the school girl It was semi tight fitting in the back and hung loosely open in the front It was not caught together to-gether at the neck and was allowed to fall in folds from the front of the shoulders downward as carelessly as a mans overcoat over-coat hangs when he throws it open without regard to tho lines which it will take THE SLEEVES WEItE VEIST LAKOE AND VULL They were of lace and were shirred in tightly just below the elbow and from the elbow to the wrist was a deep fall of old fringe The lower edge of the tunic was likewise trimmed with gold fringe The reed was a very high medici collar re-ed on the inside with gold cord and the shoul der puffs were very tallextending halfway as high as the collar A small invisible wire framework held the lace sleeve puffs in shane The hat worn with this is made of gold laco At the back of the hat there was ant bunch of pale grey tips and upon the fro a-nt were several gold tt ornaments Tiny black velvet strings were tied closely under the chin It is quite the thing for the girl who would look pretty and who does not wish to be monstrous in her style of headgear tore wear a sun bonnet The sun bonnets a to-re made almost exactly the same shape as were the sun bonnets of our great aunts day or to come nearer to the present da tsy as are tho sun bonnets which are worn bj the country schoolchildren You will s ee plenty of them if you will take the trouble to go for a drive upon any of the country roads some morning before 9 oclock u L i j l lt i QUITE TIQUAST Tho summer girl is however not con tented with clinging to exactly the old fashioned sun bonnet style and so shoha varied the monotony it by makinsit very full in the crown and then shining it close ly I to the head with several bands of line shirring This gives a beautiful full rulll ing l around the face and makes a pretty set ing for piquant features With this bonnet the summer girl does not really need a parasol par-asol and when she goes out to walk it is RATHER PREFCr AND KATHER COT and rather kittenish for her to tie on her bun bonnet with a great big bow and then inclining i her head slightlj to keep out the rays of tho sun to take her constitutional without apparently ever having a thought of Qbserving eyes The favorite material for these bonnets i sonce moro India silk This will not however stand out of its own accord and must be slightly wired to preserve tho gen eral effect Quito as pretty though is tho dotted mull which is tine alld sheet and will bear wash ingTo i To dress up simple gowns very broad col lars l aro worn Broad cuff may accompany them or not according to the taste or tho wearer If the collars are mado of white lace or crochctte work or guipure embroid cry they become very elegant affairs und I may be worn with very nice gowns A neck band may or may not be worn with I them Tho broad linen collars such as I little boys wear are fashionable for women and are worn often with the silk shirt waist or with lace fronts and in that case I the collar is turned back over the blazer which accompanies the silk shirt |