Show V THE STAGE FASHIONS How the Society Woman of Today To-day Receives her Guests DRESSING ENTIRELY IX GREI GREY Bow Appear Well Dressed Without Having a Great Variety of Gown Hints on Colors FOR Tun Sm Y HERALD Copyrighted AVE you seen the School for Scandal 2U f Scan-dal I you have you remember how 41 very pretty Rose 11 Coghlan or Ada j Rehan or Fanny J I p Davenport ot r whoever happened to be the Lady Teasel of the evening looked as she stood behind the screen trying to shield herself from the gaze of Sir Peter and Sir Charles Perhaps you recall what an effective background this screen made for the beautiful beau-tiful dinner gown and how charming Lady Teasel looked as she leaned a little forward bringing out her features in beaufiful relief against tho sombreness of the green Well soicty women as you know tauo their cues from tho stage The French stage has long set the French fashions and the French fashions are followed by all the rest of the world How often also are scenes and situations drawn from stage lifo and adapted to very effective everyday use I you wore to take a peep into the most elegant of New York drawing rooms of an afternoon you would see the fait hostess at home receiving her guests in front of a tall screen with dark background to make the tints of her dress staud out all the more beautifully You might notice also that the lady if of fair skin does not venture too far away from the screen becausedear little artist that sho is she knows that the dark material makes her skin look as white us a lily and brings out every particle of color that is in her cheeks England the hostess receives her guests seated upon a dias or sometimes underneath h it canopy Tho American hostess does not do this as yet but she has resort to little subterfuges which make her more effective in style and more beautiful in dress THE AMERICAN SOCIETY of associated artists has by its efforts to 1 reestablish the old quality of silk that was fashionable years a o brought the brocades nnd flowered designs into popujarity Changeable silks with stripes running up and down and flowers embroidered upon them are the newest of the new as well as he oldest of the old THE INVEUXES3 Flounces too which were in vogue long Bgo and which have of lata been considered an abomination to the dressmakers artaro now extremely fashionable and are seen in conjunction with the old time panniers looped on the hip and drawn to a full point in Iron A deep chiffon flounce around the bottom of a heavy silk dress is not unusual nnd chiffon sleeves puffed to the elbow and supplied with a ruffle are highly fashionable fashion-able Indeed this combination of heavy material with thin is one of the most marked mark-ed peculiarities of the season Dark silks are veiled with white white silks are draped with black and so on through all the extremes of color Itis tan t-an unusual thing to soe a deep crimson dress with pale yellow tulle looped crmson and caught up with festoons of flowers of fowers o a contrasting color i For bal dresses nothing Is as light and airy as the chiffon and at the same time nothing is as perishable The material is so delicate that if ever so lightly stopped upon it is sure to tear and will hang in great long rents before the evening is hal out F equent trips to tho dressing room and a liberal use of tho scissors are all that preserve a fashionable woman in chiffon chifon from being a bundle of rags and a mass oft of-t e ji iura v iuvoiiiuu and her oaoy are pop ular in America the Duchess of Fife and baby Alexandra Macduff are no less popu lar in England Everything that the Duchess Duch-ess wears and everywhere that she goes become facts well known to the society world and the newspaper reading people The Duchess io remarkably well supplied suppled with good and senso therefore one is prepared pre-pared to hear that in place of the fashionable fashion-able carriage wrap sho has provided herself S with a IonS straight coat and heavy cape for driving The coat is called the Inverness Inver-ness and it buttons boldly down the front with seven big buttons and it has huge pockets on the side Into which her lady ships ands may be thrust should the air be too keen and nipping The cape has quite A JAUNTr APPEAR iXCE and will surely be copied by ladies who fancy the sensible looking dress rather than the dainty kind of a wearing apparel The I material of the coat is exactly such as is found in mens clothes It is heavy all al wool and must of course be made with that tailorlike finish which i the crowning achievement of every such garment garment But let no one suppose that the woman who possesses an Inverness driving coat is going to live in it for such is not the case The who is woman sensible enough to pos ECSS such a garment and who has the money to properly execute her desires supplies herself also with a heavy winter wrap supples the street These wraps are wonderfully handsome and i they are not as becoming to women as were the styles of former years it is not the fault of the wrap I is only the fault of tho fashion which has decreed that coats be cut in that trying three quarter length length As an offset to the disagreeable length of the cloaks women of taste are making e try effort to dress themselves in colors to 1 frnion ze with tho cloaks and thus make 1ho threequarter length cs little noticeable maie nolcable as possible Just why fashion should have cvreed this martyred martyrdom of style no one knows But the cloaks are in the Btores and one must perforce buy them if one would be in the style How do you manage always to look soft so-ft llsh and well dressed even when you do HOC consider yourself particularly dressed upi was asked of a woman who was well known ion her good taste and artistic wel IngIf IngI I were to tell you the secret of my good clothes you would hardly believe it said she and since yet sice you have asked me so frankly I will tel you because it is not a seciet that 1 care to keep and I would touch prefer to see other women following the same example I is just this I dross always in grey or black Iu groy or black Why surely you are not now dressed In those colors entirely I Yes I am You will see that am if you look closely although there are sony ma so-ny shades of grey that one can really wear quite a variety of color without ap pearing to be dressed at all in one hue This gown for example i a French grey I is al little on the blue so that in certain lights it appears almost like a blue dress and yet itis really grey It is a blue grey and goes well with any color I might choose to wear Now look closely and you will see that this cloak Is likewise ALL IN OUET AXD BLACK The back is black plush without a suspicion of color in it The sides are of steel color brocade with great white or greyish white figures upon it As you first look at it it looks to you as if It were a black cloak with blue and white brocaded side forms and yet it is not so The boa which you admire ispr silver fox Thus you see so far I have preserved the groyness of which I spoke My hat as you see is of light grey foltand the velvet ribbonsfcathers and ornaments UpI on it are either of steel or of slate color Up-I am thus clad in harmony of colors which is so varied that it does not tire one and I yet is sufficiently of one tone to give that II I dressy appearance which every woman I covets H IIIi L Li i ALL IK GRET V The lesson is a good one and a little crit ical observation shows that it was not over drawn nor overestimated this idea of wearing one hue and only one when a woman does not wish to purchase many Lr dresses and yet would appear always well I gowned You are wearing pretty house gowns are you not Of course you aro because you 1 are a woman of refinement and you want I to look just as well indoors as without Be sure then that you have your awn nicely made even though the material be no better L than a 5cent challie You know how odd people are about house dresses They will look l coldly and without appreciation at an imported gown upon which you have spent more money than you like to think about And then some day when you have not cared to dress up and have put on some old dress which has been turned nnd dyed and darned and patched and combined with two or three other castoff dresses you have been amazed to find your callers going in raptures over the dress and telling you that it is by all odds the prettiest and most becoming be-coming thing that they have seen you wear In many a day Take heed then to the house dress Realize that it is the style and the make rather than the material materal which is going to count When you wish to look particularly pretty in the house Be sure that your boots match your gown i ou can get kid or suede of any color you desire Be sure tbat the ribbon bow upon your slippers is so big and fresh that it coVers up all defects and blemishes Be sure that your stockings are thin enough to give half a glimpse of the white skin underneath Be sure that the ruffles in the neck and I sleeves perfectly fresh Be sure that the chiffon fichu at the neck is as dainty as possible Be sure be very surethat the bit of ribbon with which you tie your braid or which is stuck upon the side of your coil in i tantalizing old fashioned style is as fres has h-as it was when i came off the rolL Be sure that there are dainty love curls round your neck and ears AT HOME GOWN Be sure that somewhere upon your dress there is an enameled loop or bow to match your gown Be sure to have little bags of ratchet powder sown In the lining where there will be out of sight but not out of mind Be sure to have all loose ends and loops oaught down with pretty stink pins And finally be sure i you have put powder upon your face to powder also your ears and neck because nothing is more apparent ap-parent than powder upon the face and not upon the neck |