Show WOMEN OMEN MUST DRESS FOR ZERO HOUR fit v TERM THAT HAS BE BEEN N TAKEN AWAY FROM THE THEP P l s g THE BY THE AMERICAN WOMEN AND USED TO EX- EX f TRENCHES HES 1 THE NEW TYPE OF LIFE UNDER THE FUEL REGULA- REGULA r THE TRE CHILLY Y HOUSES AND COLD STREETS ANt AN ANNEW WITH NTH t r NEW OUTPUT OF CLOTHES HAS MADE ITS AP- AP APi ELY i VELOURS SERGES VELVETS AND HEAVY r ARE WORN IN THE PADDED HOUSE HOUSE HOUSE P PADDED j CLOTHS AREu ARE WORN WOt UNDER JACKETS I BREASTPLATES e u r act t i r rT rc rt c t T r 1 r u r V J r I r rR R y M rT r r 4 i r 1 will I I r tY t Y 1 k i f f fI ff I I Z 8 1 s i Service coat of nutria with Sam Brown belt and buttons of brown er fr It is modeled after the regulation re British coat and is worn by IKO hg I en not tot in uniform as well as those in uniform lr f j HE url ro hour may have ended for tor P II PJ 1 Me the be army anny but It sends a a. shiver er of ot oti I i r through us s rr and prospect i hS houses ac cy Icy streets ts and thin td dm r ed to r reduce duco our vitality so 5 lily Ir laU lag winter that there are nrc ear experts to rise up and andal tiT al that tho the devastations ot of influenza it ns u d d' d e to these causes We Vie t were lere ere frozen b by Nature fe fed on 1 made miserable b by lack of ot i heat and nd our nervous resist U which was called Into intense aeI ac- ac I to withstand these three pla plagues ues I to milled us to fall raU easy victims I It t and the worst plague that 1 H ht d opoa ayon c On us from tho ocean last f teas i Tbt ne Tt liar nar is over but tho cold ups ap- ap j s K ales ie es The soldiers need not tear fear car tho the tiro ir hour kour but tho the American women st fm IL It may ma mabe be that we will wHit willI t i I up op cold eoM and go to bed cold Wo We 0 01 sir 1 at warm half meals ft lei front of ot ofa a j hurled Med fires flus and e have our being 1 tee t small room with a IL total tO the 1 amenities of oC life lito has led us to believe lart- lart t e a 9 Tr j I. I not pessimism It Jt is 15 a n. retro retro- I wi tr actualities None on of or us escaped r trl last year Jear The Tho rich an and the i tot tnt tnt down I alike under tho llio pres- pres I cf C Intense cold a and antl 1 lack oC coal 1 It w U aelean clean and dirt dirty wealthy and nm 1 Y W went tnt down JJ under the tho Influenza LT one kone fun w Were re spared the tho presence m i leger ait last Y year wr r The multimillion- multimillion 2 In one room and tried to heat w ih v wih whatever sticks and antl stones states she or y Or borrow w ln to the thc same com com- a T ir way warps 8 her hr sister of or the sub sub- r M nth m n f m n k 0 e 1 U U IK n tJ French h fashions i that t have come corn e by cable and 1 In to form T concrete 1 j the tho lesson of or Protection nit ut tits this d It Discomfort It is said that ch r to to ik omen W think of ot nothing but ut keep ML l warm warra from frem now until next el ane I Very fashion ls is put under this I t h trance France who once laughed l h J essed condition Is terl ter- ter at I set t Ka appears appearance nee of or transI trans- trans clothes clothe 1 erin tO She Sho dreams of or fur Cur i re tal co she thinks inks or of f bOdily and tJ In terms lerms of peltry she sho v a let dOt animal anima mal 1 with a n. thick hide It II dr does not mean the tho end ot of sac nac not Dt mean the tho Ii j. j It end off of oC does docs S not mean that we weri tape cease f y frOnt from kith Ith our labors and sit t lt OUr ri Ditl l hands folded to lh of ot and ami Ihal plan n for far the thc future u t tto to Coal mu must be saved sa to put bUt Send StOll d supplies e Wray nt-ar a to those not bOl death It means that rood food bl 1 Pj fin n that ea eaten that that Is la not needed S to tl prices s will not ot 1 I e thInk g So su o down t terIa roa ma 10 higher because will I be shipped d A out of or i In n 13 aS such Uch m masses to our 1 r Well troll a as is OUr ur allies e that In en we wo weIn wee ii I ali strict i rations for tOI hb or of the future many 1 t I de arc military r experts rt who claim I dt Is II demoralization the lb t e re 14 reconstruction f o ot of n count coun- coun ce I D a ls full ull ad of hazards doa doad dc- dc a a as the lire l r preparation te 0 In rn for war Wc Ye WUI not have i te to t. t fJ evor Inv v r this thU i new TW ail a us u t r n Wont nt to I an l 1 e so Wo 0 Will Work si Sing t as 08 Wo e tt ae I ate reI rett reut re- re I e sae r e meat But ut wo must not noti no not t 1 d o to spend n ono one pen II 1 1 i oso who i are arc III In need and we must remember that tho the reaction reaction reaction tion from war to peace cannot be ex exploited exploited exploited ex- ex I in these times b by mad extravagance gance Therefore It I necessary to keep warm and well to cover er ones one's self thoroughly To eat cat what la fa necessary and nourishing Is to be bo a 3 good citizen And tho woman who approaches clothes this winter with tho the Id idea a of oC display rather than comfort of or brava bravado o to the prospect of ot bitter da days s and more bitter nights Is simply taking a n gamble with nature and health If Ie she sho becomes at nt a time timo when er e every evey doctor and und nurse nurses nurses' is Is' Is s' s needed for those who are arc seriously sick through no fault of or their own she is an incubus Clothes should be chosen this sea season eon eonas as a part of ot a n. symbol of ot the best typo of ot patriotism which Is to keep ones one's self Felt above o disaster In order that the stalo may not have havo an extra burden Slippers and work open-work stockings In tho snow snow blom blouses es with furs fur that do not meet across the chest thin satins that are no protection to lo sleep are aro the kind lelnd o of clothes that are aro forecasts forecasts forecasts fore fore- casts of ot Illness in days dars when substitute substitute tute tuto foods and lack of or artificial hoot heat necessarily lower the resistance of or tho the bOd body to cold France Fiance and England learned this l lesson lesson les les- son last winter America must practice It this winter for tor she surel surely had sufficient suf sut- bitter experience last year to teach her some somo sense In regard to the protection o of her nerves her blood and her vital organs through seasonable apparel L Let Iet t us sa say that it is tho the fashion Cashion to wear oar warm clothes and tho the Individual I will follow tollow the fashion as tho the customs of or a country follow Its flag Wo We move I I I. I In h ll A t l d a 1 i 1 d til 11 11 tl fh sl 1 t 1 I. I In th t Vt A. A n c r Uc s an LUlU a u ne c cat on 11 n 11 e world has ha not been able to eradicate this primordial Instinct So when you OU go out to lIU buy your our winter outfit sayto saTto say saT sayto to yourself that warmth is the tho fashion that protection to tho the bod body by proper apparel Is smart that peltry velours quilted linings high shoos shoes big bib neckpieces neck neck- pieces muffs for tor the th hands and even warmers foot for tho the feet teet arc are the vcr very ery height of ot style To dross In transparent clothes la Is to show ones one's self behind the times To wear negligible costumer that half covers ers the body body- at 3 o'clock during a blizzard Is to show ones one's sol self unobservant servant of ot the rules lulos of ot the tho game same And not only must wo we wear warm clothes on the street but tho they ma may bo ho o necessary for the thc house In fact tact It Is very er probable t that they wi will l bo be Th There lO C is 18 doubt about it tho now fuel Cuel request which Is that er e every room I shall have ha a n. thermometer and that not nota a single thermometer In America shall go above sixty eight degrees Now ow youre you're not used usell to lo sixty eight degrees In the house lan l Many of or us are uro used to el eighty anti and tho the majority o of us ua will shiver er for tho first few weeks un und under r tho the new regulation We c ma may t tko take ike ko a as our only comfort that fact tact that this t temperature Is Js supposed to bo lie healthy but mind you OU It Is only healthy when whon tho the body la hi warm wC No medical expert however howo great will try to convince you OU otherwise Therefore tho the clothes that are arc to be chosen the tho house as ns well troll as those for fur tho tune street must be protective And because of at this now new ruling which l' l comes comos through the tho federal regulations there thero is s an entire output of ot now typos of ar house gowns Cowns that thal we the once thought Impossibly old fashioned for tor American women Clothes of or Oth Other r Un flays It Is whispered that the flannel petticoat pet pet- ornately scalloped and embroidered embroidered embroidered ered has hns made Its appearance hero are women who say a unblushingly h that the they shave have bou bought ht flannel union suits stilts that reach from collarbone to ankles What we on oneo called stuff gowns belonging to an nn era ern when tho houses were heatless except for hearth or stove tove fires tires of oC coal or wood when the back froze and the face tace burned and when the chicken was hardened In Its Ha own gravy between the th kitchen and the dining room room these stuff gowns belonging to those days have o been re revived re- re Do we wo think tho they are old fashioned Do we sneer at them as we are apt to todo todo do dp at nt the customs custom an and apparel of or our near ancestors Wo We 0 do not Wo Yo snatch at nt them as contributors to to our OUI happi ness We W realize that our our near ancestors ancestors ances ances- tors were wise women and that they grew rew to a good Lood old age antl and brought up large broods of or children to be lie sturdy men Inen and women because the they did not wear chiffon In a room with a 11 temperature temperature temper temper- below fifty as It W was S last winter In nearl nearly every American household for tor weeks at a a. stretch h hWe We e are dell delighted to agree wIth with the tho fuel uel regulations We Wo are arc willing to save food for tor those who are starving Wo Yo realize the tho Importance of ot sending coal conI to F-ance F and Belgium un until ell their great mines are arc reopened nut Dut we have made up our minds to be while warm while we are doing It H and tho the only possible way Of or keeping warm Is Isto isto isto to wear ear enough clothes Wo Yo threaten to take tho the Eskimo as ns our glass of ot fashion and our mold moM of or form torm The other day a woman was WILS looking at t the tho pictorial section of or a aSunda Sunda Sunday newspaper which gave O tho costumes costumes costumes cos cos- of oC the tho native women who helped tho the explorers during an Arctic expedition expedition expedition tion and she ehe exclaimed that It was the best fashion page pago for tor this winter Inter that She had seen seen Franco France has hns learned to take tho the Eskimo as a n model and turn turna a n. garment Into some something thins thins- fascinating and we wo are are- on tho the point of ot doing the samo sarno thing Wo We 0 may ma not be able ablo to buy bur peltry while we go so on providing pro mone money for or our returning soldiers' soldiers comforts com- com forts and taking care of ot millions of ot refugees In the devastated lands that must now be reconstructed but we can cnn bU buy warm arm woolen materials even with r rt r- r v t 1 1 A 0 7 r p if 10 f I J l f I l t 1 A the restriction the thc government IO leas lias put upon thorn them And It Ib ly well wall to remember that tho the Chinese use paper Women omen doing doing- war work In cold cantonments aro are using thick paper laper chest protectors Several Sc layers l of thick paper ai are pasted to together together to- to gether g and antI basted by lis a quilting quilting- stitch and those are arc put on as ns waistcoats or oras oras oras as broad bro mediaeval al breastplates Th The Thc orm t It Is Js nn an old star story to talk taUt about Franco and antI tho the mediaeval cuirass blouse but It Is a gather Father now nosy story In America Those who preached this doctrine of or dress last year were not regarded as ns sincoro prophets and we did dill not go o into the tho exploitation a ot of tho thick cuirass blouse until this oils autumn after France Flance had had eight months o of stead steady u aco of or the tho Idea Now wo we are quite enamored of or the whole Togo scheme of ot dross The Tho necessity for tor being warm has nan brought about the necessity for wearing earing something in the house und and In tho the streit that that is more mON protection than a n. WAsh ash shirtwaist Georgette crepe crep Chinese silk handkerchief handkerchief hand han kerchief linen are arc not aids to heat in inthe inthe the tho house and even en though wo we may ma wear coats with o our r skirts Indoors as aswell aswell aswell well as IIi lii the open we like like- the th protectIon protection protection pro pro- ot of these new padded blouses that are made of or chamois quilted satin or brocade interlined with flannel It H Is only Under tinder the fur coat or the short Jacket made matJe of or leather and antI sheepskin that we can stand the thinness thinness thinness thin thin- ness of ot tho conventional wash waist which has given us the best service for tor two decades The cuirass blouse puts many a n. separate separate sepa epa rate skirt Into first fashion and that Is Isa Isa isa a bit of or economy that every every cr woman likes to Indorse but more than that It gives gl a a. snug security against the tt wind lad and antI the snow snow- as well as tho the chill chillot of ot a CS degree sitting slUing room It is an ornate substitute for the sweater There Thero Is a hell heavy V sleeveless Jacket which has been een the tho fashion for tOl a year er e r or more moro In ln Its essentials but which now comes out in a burst of ot because necessity has demanded demand demand- ed something that protects the thc chestand chestand chest and back and does docs not allow us to coquette with pneumonia This sleeveless sleeveless sleeve sleeve- sleeveless less appendage to the thc costume is bodily lifted from the thc time lime of ot Cromwell Men Ien and women In those days das had to keep warm through gh apparel for the British climate I is never ne kind except In midsummer mid mid- summer and chiffons In ht December were unknown These rhese Jackets were not ornamental even en though the they I often otten disclosed full sleeves of ot red and antI yellow jellow barred fabric for foe Cromwell ell was I Inot not an apostle of ot color or gayety bayet but It wa wag wal hardly for tor the thc mass of or ofin people In a a. nation like Britain to bo lie utterly demure during the thc short space of or time sandwiched In between the two brilliant Stuarts Service Coats CoatH for tor Women omen Those who ho d design clothes are not averse to a new output to meet new fuel laws They aro are quite happy to supply women with a LL variant on the tho ac accepted style stylo of ot winter vinter The They have rung so many changes on chiffon and satin on crepe and serge tI that at the they are ae willing to go in for tor velours and angora for cuirasses of ot cloth and for tor skirts o of hea heavy They quite Indorse the Idea of or Immense pieces of or p peltry worn inthe In Inthe the tho house as well as on the street and they exploit new types of o Jackets that protect tho the bod body It means a n. brisk trade trado to them it changes tho the dull dull- dullness ness less of ot autumn Into the optimism of or winter Chief among the new outdoor wraps that have havo appeared since Inco the cold t 1 1 i t 1 rt r- r Ii I t e a Tt I r c cr r NS N- N 4 I I 1 Fr A r S Iz Circular ar capo of Hudson seal s1 slipped on over the head the opening covered covered cov cov- ered cred by a huge collar coHn of Kolinsky There are of fur to keep the arms |