r- ; ' . - I Of 'Interest to- LadD Readers I j NEWEST VEILS OF PABIS DESIGN ! .. I , Thin Netting is Draped Upon the Hat I and the Spots Are Put on to Suit t s the Face A New Idea in Stocks Cut Low and Pointed in Front to I Match the New Girdles in Shape, Design and Material. i . . - - ? ! (Correspondence Intcrmountuin Catholic.) i Paris. May 2". "Come right' in. : mademoiselle, and behold the latest ! fancy of your countrywomen," cried i Fclicifie, the couturierc's head assist- ant, as I stepped into her beautifully I appointed little place on the Hue de la i Paix. "You have come just in tiiue." I Screening: me-from view with a por- j tiere, Felicitie pointed out a pretty woniafl f-cated in front of a mirror, I while madame hovered about her. "She ! I is getting: a veil made," whispered Fe- liiti". i And sure enough, the veil was hoinsr ! made to order as carefully as though it Mere mndame's frown. . - j The material, which was a fine net- I tins, was dra)cd over a handsome hat in such a way that it hunjr in graceful J folds rot too full over the fat, and I upon this netting madame was fash- j ioning- the veil. I Upon the little marble slab in front I of the mirror lay a tray tilled with small black velvet moons: upon, the other coiner were tiny velvet dots. And . from these the veil was beinjr dotted. Taking:, a- large; moon, madame. applied ap-plied it to the veil, holding- it on with one finger, while the fair customer noted not-ed its effec t. The moon -was too high. "A little lower," commanded she: "and !' nearer the corner of my mouth.' I ' MAKING, A VKILi. j The-spot being; finally adjusted in its 1 proper -place, madame secured it with f a. tiny black thread and proceeded to I place another. When the veil had been I mooned and speckled in such a way as j to best display the beauties of the fair I dame's face, it was removed and given I over for finishing touches to Felicitie, . I who had emerged from the curtain. I "That," said madame. "is the way all I the veils are made this season." j Some of the newest veils exhibit wild ! vagaries in design, yet vagaries that are pretty withal. The smallest, llat-test llat-test velvet pansies. are appliqued upon the netting, set underneath, and not on top of the mesh., Then there are i other veils that show'a border of for- I g-et-me-nots, appliqued and arranged j along the border of the veil, which I hangs below the chin. A very odd new I veil is a square' one, too small to ex- I tend around the hat. J It is bordered ail the way around I with a handsome applique of flowers, and, when fastened upon the hat. falls over the face, but only far enough on each side to cover the lobes of the cars, where it terminates in the. sharpest sharp-est of embroidered points. The effect is somewhat curtainesque, falling over the face in this .straight -fashion, chopped off at each side, but becoming. becom-ing. Slocks are following the lead of belts and are dipping1 in front, prie of the newest stocks terminates in a point far below the line of the neck band, dipping dip-ping down almost to the yoke, while j the back is narrow and '-round, with f the exception of the ear: points, which have corne to be the necessary features of all storks. . A FITTED STOCK. A perfectly fitted French" stock is as : difficult . to .cut out as 'a girdle.. Thse- 1 front must be cut to allow for the chin, I but must din to a point below he neck , I line. The back is high and straight, j except for the points, which rise just I behind each car. and extend almost I into the hair. Stocks are made of all kinds of thin I materials, many of them wash stuffs, I but the majority are of a kind to be I thrown away after a few wearings. I "Many are the pastes that come fr I cleaning1 these delicate1, fabrics, and - some of them are quite successful. . j I The white separate waist has come ) into popularity with a fury that, fojj j f the time being, threatens to drive the j j colored waist out of the field. The most 1 I delicate and filmy bodices are made from la-e cloth, which is as sheer as I point hue. These come at fabulously j I high prices, many of them ranging up- ' I I wairls of ?10n, but their beauty is such j that they justify the expenditure, if 1 I economy is no object. Under these filmy lace waists there are worn beautiful beau-tiful lace vests, which answer for corset cor-set covers, and are scarcely less ele-grant ele-grant than the waists. These vests are fitted to the figure, and are made without with-out a suggestion of ribbon or anything .hat savors of underwear. Miss Pauline Astor, that heiress who is making a quiet sensation in Paris, j wore not long ago at one of those musi- j cales which she and her father grace so j often, a bodice of white piece lace, sheer and lovely. Though of the variety , known as "wash," it is doubtful if its delicate fabric would endure the soap and tub. The bodice had very long, very tight sleeves, ending with a point upon the wrist upon which a large lace rose lay. The yoke matched the sleeves in design, but the body of the waist was of very delicate india muslin mus-lin as sheer as lace. Underneath there was worn a slip of Dewey pink taffeta, i i sleeveless and low in the neck, with ! j the bust shirred very full, to make ' i the figure plump. The skirt was of white nun's cloth embroidered in : Dewey pinks, while the girdle and stock were of a deep, beautiful shade of maroon velvet. MISS FRENCH'S HATS. j The town is aroused over a report ' I circulated by a leading milliner, that she had secured the order for all the hats to be worn by Miss Elsie French during her honeymoon as Mrs. Alfred G. Vanderbilt. The wedding, the milliner mil-liner declares, will take place in New- i port in Aueust. and her orders' are to be filled by the first of June., The order includes five garden hats, which . are. to be. built.to match costumes, the! couturieres supplying pieces of "the dress goods to be:woven into the millinery. milli-nery. I In these hats there is noticed, a ten- j dency to cling to the. rough and -fancy ! straws, and to use straw wherever possible, pos-sible, instead of trimming. One of the most ornamental torroes, for instance, a veritable "picture toque," is entirely of fancy straws, interwoven with strands of many kinds, lace straw and straws flat, round and triangular. These are so artistically combined that one would not detect the absence of ribbon and feathers, yet the only trimming was a ehou-rosette of tulle and ribbon upon one side. Just at the moment the toque reigns supreme, large, slightly irregular in shape upon one side, and set well back from trie face. Its shape is not arbitrary, ar-bitrary, and many are the designs seen, the most popular of which is very large around, and with a piece which fits the head snugly. Lace is so extensively used that the demand has far exceeded the supply. This has caused a raise in prices; and the -coarser varieties of Russian and Brussels lace are being used instead of the expensive French, Spanish and Italian laces. All the newest colors are veiled by lace. Lace handkerchiefs are used for revers upon coats. The neat little boleros bo-leros have-.revers .that are made by cuting a handkerchief in half, diagonally diagon-ally from corner;") o corner. This makes a pointed rever which is first stiffened with narrow wire, and then stitched upon the- jacket. ; The most elaborate reception and street dresses of the spring are made in that new green called by the French chaparrel. It is quite a deep green and looks best combined with deep yellow. A dress of this green, built of thinnest satin faced cloth, had wrinkled sleeves, terminating at the knuckles with the thinnest corel of gold. The same little cord finished the eck and traced the boundary to the yoke. It was seen again in th velvet folds of the hat . and was traeedvin the -flounces with which the skirt was trimmed. An automobile coat of green to match this calling costume was cut very short in the back and long in the front, grad-" ually tapering upwards in the back, until un-til a great scallop was described, reaching reach-ing to within eighteen inches of the back. Through this opening the . skirt was allowed to fall prettily: and the semi-train was then spared the mortification morti-fication of a long coat, which chokes and utterly ruins a. trained skirt. The edges of the tunics and of the automobiles are scalloped and cut in all kinds of fancy figures; and on these irregular edges are appliqued roses and other fiowers with their leaves in the natural colors. At the races, and at the watering places, there are seen many of the long i f7mx I I SUMMER GOWNS OF NOVELTY GOODS ARE TRIMMED WITH A- - I rLICATIOXS OF BLACK" VELVET AND WIT1I' ;j I j FRINGE AND LACE- J 1' ; ' : i 1 I ' . ' . ' . ' ' J . .. . .. : silk and satin cloaks, cut very straight and very much ornamented as to the revers. These are cool and very smart looking and are worn instead of the "duster" of earlier fame. , The woman who does not care to invest in-vest in a long satin coat can fashion I one from satin-faced cashmere; pro- vide It with lapels of lace and add deep I turnover suffs of the same. If she chooses, she may liine it for two fingers deep with silk of a -contrasting shade, and all with the very best results. : I NEWPORT GREETS HELEN GOULD America's Philanthropist Promises to Enter the Gay Portals of Society So-ciety This Summer. A new element is to be added to Newport. New-port. Helen Miller Gould, America's j Florence Nightingale, the girl of phil--. anthropy and millions, is to take her-j her-j self, her brother and her household to , Newport to spend the sumrn-v months -in that, palatial city by the sea. It is safe to, say that she and all that belong i to her will be welcomed into the very j heart of Newport society. I If Miss Gould, as an untried girl, ' years ago, had ventured at society's Inner portals, before she had demonstrated demon-strated her fitness for the great World, there mighth ave been some doubt about her admission; for society's circle is a full one. But having won her spurs, ! as it were, and having been honored by public -and - private- reward, as few , women have ever been honored, New--' port feels that it is to be congratulated ' in' having1 Miss Gould come to dwell in I Its midst. "Fair Lawn," the beautiful residence I which has been selected by Miss Gould as her Newport home, belongs to I. Townsend Burden and is complete in every small detail of elegance and artistic ar-tistic finish. To reside at Fair Lawn, THE SUMMER OUTING DRESSES SHOW rj3W AND PRETTY STYLES IN SKIRTS AND MANY DESIGNS FOR SMALL . ANO NEATLY FINISHED BOLERO COATS. Miss Gould leaves a lovely country seat upon the Hudson vacant during the summer, and closes a magnificent dwelling1 dwel-ling1 on Fifth Avenue, but the home to which she g-oes is worthy of her selection. selec-tion. The household, it is said, will consist of Miss Gould's brother Frank, who is the only unmarried Gould boy, and her cousin; besides these Miss Gould has many young friends who visit her continually. con-tinually. It is hardly to be expected that she will devote herself to society entirely, nor that she will dance until 4 in the morning, only to1 reappear at 9 in the morning, at the Beach, as elegantly gowned in a morning dress, as fresh as though there had been no night's dissipation; dis-sipation; nor is it to be supposed that she will take part in the sensational theatricals which are so much a part of Newport. It is more as a chatelaine that Miss Gould will go to Newport, keeping 'house exquisitely but .quietly and entertaining only in a modest way. HER BUST LIFE. Helen M. Gould, the young girl whose every movement has come to be of im-terest im-terest to the American public, is still on the sunny sideo f 30. Her father died eight years ago, leaving six children, George, Edwin, Helen, Howard, Anna and Frank. A fortune estimated at not less than $100,000,000 was deft in -business trust for them, the management to be in the hands of the "beloved son" George. None of ' the family were at that time over thirty years old, and Jay Gould himself was only 58 at the time of r his death. j As the sons and daughters grew into maturity they married, them most notable not-able wedding being that of Anna, who, at the age of IS, married the Count Castellane. Howard's marriage to Katharine Clemmons occurred two years later. . . While the others were engaged in their own personal pursuits. Miss Gould was devoting herself to the life work which she had chosen, namely, that of helping the world by her benefactions. Her first great work was the building of a . Memorial Church to her father; following that were numerous private deeds, many -of which were ' wholly I deeds of kindness. A story is told of how a, young friend was married to a man poor, but worthy. On their return j from a brief wedding journey the . couple found a neat little cottage all furnished and presented in the name ! of Helen Miller Gould, as a wedding gift. ' ,t: A much more pretentious gift was an immense home at Tarrytown. N. T., erected for the training of little cripples. crip-ples. Hundreds of these unfortunate children chil-dren are sheltered at Woody Crest, f which gives them a pleasant home, 1 teaches them the manual arts and fits , them to carn a living in the world. At the breaking out of the Spanish war Miss Gould volunteered her services ser-vices to 'assist the ladies in the man agement of supplies. She systematized systema-tized the office, paid clerks nut of her own purse.e bought carloads of needed material, and was ever ready -with her check book. One day a nurse came to-her; to-her; "Miss Gould, we are trying to raise money to buy an ambulance. It is absolutely needed at our new camp1. I wonder how .we can manage It." "I think this will be the best way," said Miss Gould; and, taking out her check book, she signed her name to an amount sufficient to pay for the ambulance. ambu-lance. At the close of the war congress tendered ten-dered her a vote of thanks and the military mili-tary organizations sent testimonials to her. For services rendered during the AVinds6r fire, the New York fire de-1 de-1 partnient voted her a letter of thanks ! and gave her .the freedom of the fire j lines. She also received a vote of thanks as a life saver. HER FUTURE. Meanwhile Miss Gould has been living, liv-ing, not the life of a heroine, but one of privacy. Though not a great society girl, she has entertained many distinguished distin-guished people and her New York home is seldom empty. It is hoped that she will allow Newport New-port to show its appreciation of her during the summer. In her beautiful home she could entertain well; for the house was built by its present owner with an eye to the artistic result" A celebrated painter once pronoun. it one of the most elegant private houses in the world. The salon is one of the handsomest rooms in the place and is 34x50 feet. It has an afched ceiling with a French painting in the center ot a nymph and cherubs. This is surrounded with pale gray medallions with white Louis XV. bow 'knots on each. The walls are hung with the palest gray damask,' and fine paintings, which are copies of famous masters, are panelled pan-elled on them. - The light brackets are I of the gold bronze of the period, and the cream curtains embroidered in pink fiowers. The furniture, brought from abroad, has gold frames and is upholstered up-holstered in pale green and rose. The ballroom, 50x40 feet, is in the Lotiis -XVI. style, in pale gray and white tints. Ten great mirrors are panelled pan-elled on its walls, and above them white garlands in papier mache. Inserted In-serted over the windows and doors are small paintings of cherubic beings. The dining room is 2Sx38 feet and in the Queen Anne style. The carved dark oak . wainscoting is eight feet high, with red silk damask between it and the papier mache ceiling. A painting of a daughter of Louis XV. is over the carved mantel, which reaches the ceiling. ceil-ing. . . . : . There are sixteen large rooms on the second floor and twenty-five servants' rooms on the above story. It is hardly expected that Miss Gould will use so much room, but if she decides de-cides toenjoy to its full the life of the gay summer city, she has every means at her disposal. . . EX-QUEEN LIL GOES HOME TO - DIE. Hawai's Former Ruler Purchases a Pink and White Shroud and Starts For Her Native Islands. At a reception, to which the best people peo-ple of Washington society were inv:Vd, ex-Queen' Liliukalani, formerly of Hawaii, Ha-waii, but for the past five years of Washington, announced that she had decided to shake the dust of the United Unit-ed States from her feet and to1 return to the land of her birth, to spend the final days of her life in such retirement retire-ment as is her right by birth and the will of the people. Five years ago, when the Hawaiian trouble came to a climax, ending in the permanent dethronement of the royal family, the ex-queen sailed for America, Amer-ica, and, traveling across the country in semi-royal state, threw ' herself at I the feet of President Grover Cleveland j to beg from him such indulgence as he could grant. The fallen queen desired first her throne; failing that she wanted want-ed a very substantial pension; or, f neither throne1 nor pension were forthcoming, forth-coming, her friends hinted that she would accept the post of governor to Hawaii, or any other appointment of rulership which could be bestowed upon her. After pleading her cause many times Liliuokalani withdrew, and with much sorrow announced that her "great and good friend" could do little1 for her at present; in the future hemight, however, how-ever, give her any or all of the things j she craved. ; . Washington treated the ex-queeri, who is a woman of education, refine-I refine-I ment and presence so well that she decided to remain; . and after looking about the city, she selected a home worthy her state in which she immediately imme-diately placed native servants and gathered about her a ritinue that would not disgrace a royal household. HAWAIIAN FAD. . '- ; Her business in Washington her friends said, .was to place before the government her claims to a pension and to press them until they should finally be recognized. - To this end statesmen were invited , to her Jiome, and the Hawaiian fad became a popular popu-lar one in Washington. When the queen went to drive she was a picturesque figure, with her ladies, her outriders and court. At other times, driving in 1 semi-state, she had with her only hei ' lady attendants, but her dress wa3 al-. al-. ways such as to portray her rank. ! The last of her dynasty, for the ' throne of Hawaii is permanently fallea, Liliuokalani deserves more than - a passing thought. Her right name is Mrs. Lydia Ham-akacha Ham-akacha Dominis, for late in life she j became the wife of John Owen Dominis, Domi-nis, a young business man of Honolulu. Hono-lulu. This matrimonial adventure occurred in 18G2. Young Dominis was the son ' of an American sea captain, but was j born in Italy. When David Halakua ; was made king, ?.Irs. Dominis, by especial es-pecial royal proclamation, bloomed forth as the Princess Liliuokalani. Her husband was rewarded by the gift of the governorship of Oahu, Molokai and Lanai, and was also a member of the house of nobles. He wore on his breast all the orders at the disposal of the ! crown. John Dominis died, however, before fortune placed his consort on the throne on Jan. 20, 1891. She was then in her fifty-third year. Liliuokalani; was one of many brothers broth-ers and sisters, them ost beautiful of whom was the Princess Like Like, the royal girl who manned' Mr. Cleghorn wff jljii -iiMIf ,1' ') 'ls life mfWl w 1 RIBBONS ARE RUN UP AND DOWN THE SKIRT AND AP-PLIQUED AP-PLIQUED TO THE DRESS WITH NARROW BANDS . OF Will a E SILK. of California, and had one-child, the Princess Kaiulani. A FAMILY MARTYR. When Like Like had been only a short time a wife, the Volcano Peel broke out and vomited forth fire, smoke and lava. The people of Hawaii were 'greatly terrified and consulted their oracles to find out how to check the terrible mountain. 1 The ancient books said that Peel, the ever terrible, would-be contented only with the sacrificeo f a human life; and that the life so sacrificed -must be one of the royal family. Like Like offered to give herself up as a sacrifice to the awful God; and so, in full sight of all,-she lay down and deliberately starved to death, thus securing se-curing a niche in immortality for herself her-self and peace for Hawaii, for on the very day that Like Like died, the volcano vol-cano Peel became quiet. When the revolution occurred in Hawaii Ha-waii Liliuokalani was put off the throne, but the minds of the people turned toward the little daughter of the martyr Like Like; and for a long time Kaiulani was the queen-elect. But time and laws change, ' and the story of how Hawaii became a part of the United States is now history. Queen Lil, as she is popularly called, as being an abbreviation from her more lentghy title, goes back to Hawaii Ha-waii to spend her old age in peace and tranquility. To show that she appreciates appre-ciates her decline in fortune and in years, it may be mentioned that she has announced the giving up of all political po-litical ambitions, and that her only desire de-sire is to die on her native soil. One of t the queen's latest moves J J I 1 " ' J Wfi in k s " i s ; hh A GOWN U uuxx jIULL WITH STRAW HAT TRIMMED WITH ROSES AND' BLACK VEST AND SASH. was the purchase of material for a shroud, a gown in which all Hawaiian ladJs are interested. Queen Lil's is of white satin, lined r with royal purple, and is elaborately trimmed with jewels, so say those who have viewed it. This she will take back to Hawaii with her, to preserve until, wanted. . , . . , . . . 'vx tc I ' I " ' . V" V "4 I ' V Pfy?v 1 -'' J:' MISS PAULDING PRESIDES OVER THE FAMOUS DINNERS GIVEM ' BY HER UNCLE, DR. DEPEW.