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Show THE TEA GOWN New York, tho color Bchomo of tho gown thnt Is to bo worn in the houso Is far moro Important than one,, to be worn on tho street; or rather, thero Is less liberty on tho street, moro nlleglanco to rulo nnd restriction, restric-tion, nnd a wldo cholco for tho Indoor In-door hours. Designers like Callot and Chcrult hnvo gone In for mnuve pink, deep blue and palo yellow. They do not use as many of tbo brilliant colors as was to bo expected with tho war spirit pervading Europe, but this Is rendily understood when one reninm-bcrs reninm-bcrs that the colors of tho season wero Invented or decided long before war was declared. Nothing in tho gowns of this season sea-son so far reflects tho military activities, ac-tivities, if ono expects the brassard on the arm and the occasional use of a top coat made of infantry red velvet. Callot showed a great deal of tie pastel coloring and yet she united It with mediaeval line drafted on Oriental ones. She ran over a wide range of solhoucttes this season from the Moyenage to what Is' known as the Worth silhouette with its tight draped bodice and flat hips and thru all these changes she mndo use of palo colors combined with barbaric Jewelry. ' House Gowns for Debutantes There was n tlmo when .vomon wore a cloth skirt with a thin bloiuo in tbo houso during that interim between be-tween dark and dinner, and It took them years to discover that this was nn extravagant way of wearing out a coat suit. Now, oven tho woman of moderates means patches up tho satin lining of an evening gown with a bit of good not and a touch of crystal or bullion trimming, nnd no she finds ready to hand a simple, convenient frock that she can slip on, the moment sho comes In from her street nctlvltles at tho hour of dusk, Tho established English custom of being at homo for tea, for a callor, or a quiet tlmo for reading or wilting wilt-ing at this hour of duBk Is ono that America Is learning to accept moro and moro as tho years go on. It takes a tranquil -nation to do this. Our women aro much moro apt to go to a restaurant for tea than to go liomo, but wo aro absorbing, llttlo by little, tho Borener method of older nntlons In rounding off- tho sharp cornors of Hfo. And when a woman comes homo for a rest for tea and to see tho few friends, sho appears at far more advantage ad-vantage at her homo than nt n restaurant res-taurant and she should ' dress for tho part. Such a frock as a groat dressmaker Iiob turned out at a largo price "can bo . nccompllshsd at home at a small prlco. Thero Is no doubt in tho minds of thoso who know trndo that wo shall soon find materials qulto reasonable, for tho French Importations which wero brought over In August ami In September will not last, and there Is no possible oxcuso for the American Ameri-can manufacturers to bo raised In price, although ono feels hesltanco In prohpesylng this when the Amc-rl-can eggs that an American hon laid ! In an American yard hnvo gono up a third of tholr usual prlco bocauso of tho European war. When this fact strikes you Ir tho faco you aro filled with terror of American greed nnd ft fcoling t hopelessness about all appnrol prices during tho winter to como. Imaglno how ono feols coming straight irom tho centors of war whero not a pin-glo pin-glo artlclo of any kind has raised In money vnluo to bo mot In Amnrlca with oxorbltant prices for American productions "bocauso of tho war." i |