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Show I t . . . Cr & ir & iftTft&Gftft$irftGitiiftitift&i:&ftfttitr&&ft&& & & && &&& & 4 Parisian o&rtorial omall talk : V V . . . ' ' . . ' u ' ' . w. W - M M M M M M f M M M M M M M M M M M M M7M M M M M M M H M M M M M M M M M M M Wl V" v TT-118, Dec" 19- Tnc R,vlera sea son. which follows close upon B the heels of the holidays is not showing any diminution In fashionable fa-or this year. It H, is only a question of a few weeks when all the world will be en route to the ' sunny south. The "little Paris season" is coming co Us halfway house, and, to paraphrase a familiar line, "the best ( Inn's best room" for countries have H' their fashions as well as men and wo- men will soon be at a premium. Hl Exquisite toilets are being created for these dolec far niente days, and their beauty Is never lost In the land H: where it Is always afternoon. The ' dressmaker's art Is displayed there to Hl the very best advantage. There Is plenty of opportunity to show a stun-nlng stun-nlng gown, and at roost exclusive re-H, re-H, sorts this is really the overture to the Hi White, which for several seasons has H i been such a predominating note in the southern toilet, has a rival now in the i pastel shade3. Both the ivory and pas- tel colors require the becoming touch of dark furs to make them really effec- tlve: consequently the dainty light cos-tumes cos-tumes will be worn with magnificent sable and mink. One sees in some of the fashion talks exaggerated accounts of pink, mauve ' and blue cloth gowns being donned on r'ii occasions. Ab a matter of fact, the light dress worn on the street is the Hi, exception rather than the rule. It is HT!! true a few whito or cream fur deco- Hjl rated toilets wera seen at the races Hjl several weeks since, but the best dress- ed Frenchwomen are trending more and H more toward comber shades for their Hl costumes, especially at outdoor func- Hl I tlons. Browns, from rich golden to rus- H ,( set shades, and the greens and dull reds composing walking gowns are more or H less rich, though subdued. The point l1 of brilliancy is moat noticeable in the H' headgear. A feature is made of the H j bright emerald green feather or royal H blue or brilliant red plumes which ap- H pear on' black or dark toned chapcaux H l and are Invariably worn by a chic mon- H daine with a black, brown or mole col- H j ored costume. H As for fur hat3, they are generally H composed of two kinds of skins, seal Hj J and sable or moleskin and white rabbit, H I and made up In elongated toques worn fl a little off the face. Quaint touches of gold in th? form of cockades are effec- H tlve trimmings on some of these stun- j nlng fur hats. To wear v.' 1th a smart H!j tailor gown a toque of beavec trimmed H with parma violets and roses is very , H pretty. H j The gown cut en princcsse Is coming H in again, and I have seen a good many i examples designed for the early Riviera H season. This gown very often has the H, bodice and skirt cut separately, but the H waist Is so uklllfully manipulated, that H the whole frock has the appearance of H being cut in one and hangs in long, H graceful folds. H Concerning skirts, the v.'ldth and H ahape are quite different this winter, H for, although the upper part of the H skirt fits quite close, the lower part H must l.t very wide. In a' great many H cn-fo I'r.'.H w-ioth K achieved by a rufile H rufile, a kind of Pehon on Ossa afiair. , ,.zjJ2S3lE6u8tL: v- V N V V v v v- s s- -s t Numbers of flounces are used on all Indoor creations and on some of the dressy afternoon street gowns as well. Crinoline of a very soft and pliable nature na-ture Is placed Inside the skirt to bring about this flufllnesa. It Is almost Impossible to minutely describe the different trimmings of the season. They are all channlng and In the right place equally Important. Perhaps Per-haps the newest is the "lacet embroidery," embroid-ery," which has the effect of a key pat- tern carried out m lace bram. A special spe-cial fancy of the day is for open work or English embroidery, which Is exceedingly ex-ceedingly pretty when applied over a contrasting color. The old fashioned smocking we have almost, forgotten . has come Into vogue again, but now It is caught into diamondlike pieces with different colored silk. Another distinguishing feature of trimming Is that lace Is oftener arranged ar-ranged as panels than as the popular insertion or entre deux. Before leaving leav-ing the trimming subject let me say that buttons are seen everywhere, especially es-pecially velvet covered buttons arranged ar-ranged In groups. Cut steel, gun metal and enamel ones are among the art novelties. Fringe of all kinds, from tho' wide macrame to the tiny ball variety, va-riety, is in evidence on frocks and sep-! sep-! ?.rat waists. This trimming finishes I the ends of ties and festoons the dain-"1 dain-"1 gowns in a fringe of chiffon flowers, jLj.ifrUifttr.L!y.li,J:dLl V V V "V V w V ." v V Although the tea drinking fad has become popular in Paris and tea rooms are plentiful In all parts of the city, the Parlslenne has never acquired the art of serving the beverage with, as Kipling says, "more than oriental splendor." Paris now has a tea room to be proud of. It was opened recently by two English ladles In the Rue Cam-bon Cam-bon and Is called the Vol Rosa. Happening Hap-pening Into this charming place the other day, I was surprised to see the room crowded with elegantly dressed Frenchwomen drinking their "five o'clock." The room Is delightfully ar tistic and Is becomingly lighted with electric lights In shaded rose bulbs. The tables are spread with lace Inserted cloths, and the china service is of the daintiest. The new tea gowns when made In the light and soft, clinging stuffs are dreams of loveliness. ' The flexible brocades, bro-cades, velvets, liberty silks, chiffons and even voiles are not out of the running. run-ning. A beautiful gown Is of mauve velours fashioned In long, straight lines, with a sweeping, graceful train. The low neck 13 outlined with an 'empiece-ment 'empiece-ment rf embroidered laoo hivir.s: fv-i'J- .ver studded with amathysts encircles V V V V V V V V V V v v the waist empire fashion, and wing sleeves lined with silvery tissue give a very "dovey" effect. Simple and girlish Is another tea gown confection of accordion ac-cordion plaited white double chiffon made up over yellow taffeta. Over the plaited skirt hangs a short, plaited bolero bo-lero jacket of chiffon, and a lace collar supplements this. Rows of two Inch puffs reaching to the elbow and a fall of plaited chiffon Joined to the puffs with a band and bow of yellow ribbon complete the original sleeve. On high necked tea gowns fichus are a favorite finish. And, by the way, fichu effects A QUINTET OF PARISIAN 1904 MODELS. are a blessing to a woman who on a small allowance contemplates "doing up" old frocks. But to come back to tlic tea gown, the woman who carries one off with success must be tall and slim. But we all seem able to achieve this attenuation nowadays, and how it is managed is often a marvel. Possibly the corset Is responsible for some of the taking off of "too, too solid fiesh." Think of the corset of today and compare com-pare it with that of ten years ago. The straight front has certainly revolutionised revolution-ised femininity both from a hygienic and artistic standpoint. The French ..i , .-- r - - ' again the small waist of hourglass proportions, but so far without much enthusiasm being displayed for them on the part of the women themselves. The furriers are having the time of their lives just now as the cold weather weath-er Is bringing them a lot of business. One leading house Is making a specialty special-ty of ermine opera wraps made In ahav.'l shape and edged with chenille and ball fringe. The wrap, though, that appeals to tho great pleasure loving majority Is of pretty brocade having raised velvet figures and trimming of lace and velvet. A coat of white zlbe-llne zlbe-llne made lovely with dark fur and gold buttons is also popular. The theater hat has been reduced to its tiniest proportions, and an Alsatian Alsa-tian bow of velvet or a combination of tulle and feathers Is the only head protection pro-tection my lady now uses for the evening. even-ing. CATHERINE TALBOT. ! A Fevr Fanhlon Folblcn. Everybody appears to be anxious to buy the new cross over fur pelerine as well as the very attractive little fur ties, new collars and cravats. I Pale lavender is one of the popular shades for evening wear, and royal blue seems almost as prominent as the burgundy phadc;. The craze for spots lives again in the velvet spots on taffeta grounds, especially espe-cially for the toilette de reception. IP iff Si IV Black velvet spots on taffeta are particularly par-ticularly charming. Pinked out ruches of frayed taffeta will .be even more worn than fringes, though both are a delightful old fashion of our great-grandmothers' days. The French stage Is responsible for the revival of Jet, and there Is nothing noth-ing more effective than steel, silver and black sequins. Mingled with these aro seen froufrou chiffons and real lace. A fjwi- -- -th Jet never seems to go out of fashion. , , ., . i |