Show shim shimmering mering metal cloth paris mode the ghosts of the dim VIctor victorians inns are stalling stalking their ancient haunts sensing the tedious banality of pallid pastell sm sin and too simple simplicity the lovely ladles of yesterday have suddenly ud denly become articulate even in the awesome presence of youth and they are boldly declaring the sartorial virtues of the epoch that was ward mc Allta tees indeed asserts a parts paris fashion writer in the new york borte her lid tribune they have transformed their words into material manifestations and were you an habitude habit uee of smart paris rendezvous du soar you would see definite nite evidence of the proposed revival of the golden splendor of the victorian era where recently pastel hues were the hallmark of formal elite chic now gold and colorful hues are also the order of the night where airy silks were once the stuffs that robes du coir were made of today metallic brocades brocaded bro cades and luxurious velvets velvety share the evening spotlight and the straight simple tubular tul iular gowns that used to be VW the epitome of smartness evening gown of black velvet fullness massed in front have been succeeded by flares sumpta ons decoration and complicated elaboration hven even youth hns has been compelled to join tile lie match march buck back toward ornate ism and for the moment the reaction appears complete modernized elegance your problem u whether bother you are youth or matron concerns the extent 0 so o which you shall adopt the returning grandeur you may take it for gant ed bilat elegance to a degree Is with us once more and that straight silhouette has bits encountered unexpected und happy complications you know too that this Is what Is known us as a transition sonson when ahen it Is 19 bensy to be incorrect an and dangerous to be too smart din dan scrolls erous because you may recent accent the theme which Is irritating the sensibilities of the mode and unit that theme may be yesterdays as well as a mythical tomorrows the bruited bruised return of elegance offers just such a delicate problem there Is no question that tile the stage for some time has been well set for tile lie coming of almost anything which would overshadow trite simplicity and the parts couture sensing the situation has made several radical departures from that hat mode which inaugurated after the war has lasted until this season departures which naturally enough have been in the direction of increasing elaboration particularly in the evening mode because here the field tor for ornate decoration Is greatest yet tills oils new elaboration la Is only relative compared to tile the belles of the lie gay 1909 our ele gantes are simple Cinde rellas and prophecies of a return to the he swishing glories of victoria are it a long way from being realized de spite the many ardent verba lists who anre broadcasting such predictions from these impulsive we learn that the venus proportioned figure of the early century gibson glason girl the corset and elaborate concealing garments tire about to enjoy a 0 renaissance and that they will revolutionize tile the mode and it if yon express doubt these aliese prophets point to the returned waistline golden brilliance of the present node du coir and the universal tendency away from boyish straight line simplicity stan seen at the waistline all of which seems logical enough it if you only scratch the surface Look ln at the sketches of parts paris evening mod els Is you will see tile the waistline decoration vivid colors and compared to the boyishness of recent years graceful femininity but eail each of these themes Is present only ln in a moderate modo rute and modern degree present more us as a tsing development of the postwar post war mode than it a strong protest against it and forecasting from these promises premises a return to tile the deep ch cheated ested heavily encumbered decorous figure of the lie early leous Is simply a sentimental proceeding with no logical foundation it totally disregards the temper and position of the he modern woman fifteen years it ago go paris first fl rs t launched the fashion of the bobbed head and it wits was it a dismal fallu failure re slimily because milady in that period of subordination demanded n high degree of lal 10 pint elaboration in tin this s instance the nhun abundant dint coiffure that was the lie sort of elaboration fill that it belonged to the he glorified it was the tie product of her subordinate position she ana wits the lady whose place was in the lie home since then lien she has left it if not forever sit it least for the next few generations aind coincident with lier glicr appear anco in fit lie ohp arts the lie professions in politics and in hu business lie has forever discarded the style arti artifices flees that were so essential to lier lesser state alit elaboration that has so hap eliy inaugurated it new style cycle th a letwon la 19 of an entirely modern character it Is based on the free and postwar post war mode and it t will never degenerate into the artificial all concealing awkwardness of the lie early century what appears to some to be a renaissance of tile lie gilded victorian age Is only the lie golden afterglow of an era ra which lins hit forever joined the innumerable A caravan so let modernized elaboration be the keynote of your winter robe du coir you can accent the theine so far as you like in fairies no Is too luxurious for tile current mode hut but lu in silhouette antl and detail temper your elsin with a grain of the bustle back when offered in moderate versions lias has its place in contern horary v fashions but chun lill singly v the hie extreme manifestations wh li ii inskipt insist upon it a literal teril ll return to the it would be folly to discard the like lissome grace of the lie modern mode for the lie awkward elegance of tile lie early century or for the unattractive e artl arti 1 ices flees of the lie ISSO 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