| Show tips for the home dressmaker waists yokes by losa E payne made with yokes form the subject of this lesson there arc so many kinds of yokes that some may present apparently much greater difficulties than others to the amateur As a matter of fact there is no question of difficulty but of amount of work that makes the difference an elaborate yoke is really as easy as a plain one because for both the upper part of a plain fitting bodice is the basis and the essential particular lies in dividing the yoke from the lower part properly the illustration shows an example of a slightly pointed yoke of alternate strips of tucking cut on the bias and insertion to which the gathered edge of the lower material is secured by a piping A small yoke seton the sleeve top forms a continuation of that of the waist the lower edge making a direct line round from the middle of the back to the front the top of the sleeve puff h gathered and set on with a cording as also is the lower edge which is secured to a deep tight fitting cuff match the yoke it may either fasten at the back or in the middle of the front jn the latter case the opening is concealed to the depth of the yoke by the insertion and below that is not obvious among the falness ful ness the principal feature of the cutting is in keeping the ends of the line in ruling a longer one for the gathered edge to be set to the yoke even with the original points diagram I 1 shows the plate fitting A pattern marked across for the yoke line also for the top of the lower part allowing for the falness ful ness the dotted lines represent the cutting with half an inch turning for each allowing exact turnings to each edge whai a pattern is divided is one most important details and the amount allowed should be distinctly defined so that when joined together the result is absolutely that of the original pattern if this is remembered and carried out a pattern may be divided anywhere and in any direction in diagram II 11 arc three 11 eions of other shape yokes the first shows one with one scallop from the side down to the center and the extended line for the falness ful ness carrying out the rule already given the second has two downward scallops between the side and the center with the line for the falness also it will be seen that the horizontal part of the scallops only arc extended and the parts curving downward arc identical with the original ones this is for the same reason that there are no gathers at the side ot the neck edge of an ordinary gathered waist that it would make a puff at that point and spoil the effect of the downward folds to the waist the third example shows a shapely scallop which is too complicated to allow for so as to cut exactly to make it worth the trouble therefore it is better to cut the full edge to fit under the top corners of the scallop and when gathered firmly to tack it there then stroking the falness down regularly it is a simple matter to disperse it under the point and to secure these over tt after which the upper part may be cut away from under the yoke for the making of yokes that arc divided into several parts it is not enough to allow turnings and take it for granted the result is correct they should always be compared with the plain pattern or built over it in paper as lace is worked to make a yoke like that in the waist illustrated rule the line for it on the pattern and cut it and the under part as in diagram I 1 then lay the insertion on to the yoke part at equal distances apart pinning or tacking them the back and front yokes may be joined together at the shoulders in the paper and the insertions he mitered to fit or they may be put together after the insertions are tacked on each separately and the turning being opened the insertions may be very neatly sewn together the tucking is cut on the bias half one way and half the other as in the illustration there is no occasion to seam this on the shoulder as being on the bias it will readily adapt itself to the shape and the effect is infinitely better cut the strips with sufficient turnings so that the edges will under those of the insertion to be either stitched or joined together with any preferred fancy stitch the paper need not be removed but it can be pulled away afterwards or it it is the tacking mut be quite firm to prevent cither edge slipping from the other when a plain material is to be used and ornamented in any way it is quicker to cut it to the full size yoke to lay the insertion strips on and after they arc secured to cut attic material away from under hem to make the edges neat on the inside use the narrowest linen tape or baby ribbon in a great many instances to finish them in this way would detract from the appearance on the right side in which case it is better to leave the raw edges to make the waist illustrated after completing the yoke make collar and join it on to the neck edge or if it is preferred separate finish the neck edge with a narrow band and the collar to be put on over it next gather the top edges of the lower parts and make a piping of material on the exact bias running or stitching it close to the cord over which it is folded lay this on to the yoke edge to edge then the gathered one to those and after tacking it carefully arranging the falness ful ness as dc ired stitch it along close to the cord so that the latter will set snugly between the two edges on the right side of the garment it is often pretty if the piping makes a touch of bright color and if the waist is a washing one batiste may be used as the colors are fast in that texture next join the sides by french scams and either hem or stitch one turning or pink out the lower edge according to the bulkiness of the material arrange the falness at the back waist in gathers securing them with a narrow band of the material to each end of which sew a tape with which to tic in the front falness ful ness it the fastenings are down he back secure the lefthand left hand tape to the right edge and vice versa if buttons arc used for back fastenings remember 1 T i i hat when fastened they must be cx icily down the center therefore al must be made for the edge on the buttonhole side and the wrap beyond the buttons on the opposite one the sleeve illustrated seta more perfectly if made over a fitting dounda tion as this insures the forearm p F being held up in place without lining it is essential that this part g shall fit quite snugly to which end 1 is better to hook the lower part of it the long shoulder effect may be obtained in a plain yoke by cutting tact seam edges to the required curving them over the top of the arm and taking off the same amount the top of the sleeve according to that added to the yoke A very becoming yoke for a sisa figure is one cut with pointed scallop one of which extends over the to cut a back yoke that is carrier over the shoulder towards the tro far enough to have a strap effect i the front pin together the back a 8 front shoulders of the pattern to L where the front and back edge w w yoke are to come and cut by folds allowing turnings beloff the yoke and above for the lo 10 part placing each middle back w to a fold A tracing wheel is very w such cases as it is only necessary v lay the pattern on the 0 material and to trace malonff w creases made never rely on the impression sa by a wheel but mark it with pw if all sewing lines are carea marked in this way there is 1 chance of a one sided result in 5 ishad garment besides they w much assistance if an alteration required to a seam in making the w ydes alike if the original corf sp lines arc pinned and the alteration made on the side and traced through to the tacy cannot fail to be exact i |
