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Show A R I 5 T.A 5 H I O N 5 .1 N H : : imWWWWMM f WK AY S and TEA. GOWN 5 WEMWM4 Av:: ;: uP These psr t va r m pSiir l;: ii.m" : : 'qV .? : feVl- t .' -Ti. ' . iCC'--- t-4 Exrl.i.iv. tWrnsht. Win .f York m mm -. m ! - -rf- " y ' v.- " -. Kosfr Brocade Wrap - k:t' -" ' ; ' f . rhoto Copyrislii. 1'Jl'Chv n.nlltikvr hit 5- i-; r ( ; . ' Hxclusivi. Ci rif hi. I'.mi. ,V i.r r J ttrzf I ! 'V.;V ' . '' , . 7-k O-' I Embroidered Chiffon VVra Hxcliisiv Oprisbt. 1lu Nf IY MRS. A. T. ASIIMORE. ALL Important In the romplotc mii- (it ot today nro uinps n nil trn prnn. nnd in I'nloulntinjj t lit? cost of tbo gonson'n wnrdmlie it is as well to nllot a cooilly sura for them, for tlny nro now ronsiilorrrl ' positivoly inditi)ciiMllo to every Voninu' who wishes to hi' cmisiil.Tfd conversant' with the ort of lrii-. The fn&liinnnMH, ten sown this season i a most tlnhoratc nffnir, ouite well suited to the small hti home dinner or card party, for iU flowine lines nnd more or lesi jiirt nrepquo effert' difiVr marvellously little oni what is cnlled the infoim.il ditmor pnvn, The liish Ml nnd the lone, plain skirt that; have for sonn- lnn) been nvsorinted with Ihv Fmpirt- siyle of dinner pnwn nre nhso-, lutely correct for the elaborate ten jown,' nnd in Irutli it rerpjired n l;ein eye to de-i teet wherein lien lhi groat dilTerence. I RrocadeM ure cxtri'imdy fnshionnhic this i'.ns'n, and thf striped ones are for the monn'iit ery popular. There is. however,' ft Mi'Kcstion of htriped wnll paiier and fiirniluic C"r-rins nhont ninny nf the de-skn- that in itnl'ly detracts from their, (niiiy in spite of ihe cximsit' eolorinp. ', bo there are innnU-rhs.i other designs to ehonso from, no there is no necessity forj S"l.v?tine any pattern that Is not attrac J live. There an- also no end of fnney mlks. ; s.nim and uioir-s that nre of the moit i ' chnrmin? design n;id eolor nud marvellous-! j ly well odopted to tlie modern tea sown.1 The woman who loves dres delights In1 i contriving ond adapting colors and ma terial, and, ho it j who evolve some of the smartest styles that are adopted. To copy from some old portrait a sown that' would be perhnpi t..o striking nnd pictu-i resque except f..r n te;i- KOwn does not' I ocur to the averace dressmaker, but the: ortist in clo;lir, be hhe the wller or the j buyer, has studied nn for diW i-nke and, :c Tea Gown with Rose Silk Mantedu I'hoto Copyrihi, I'Jlrt. I.y RnnliDpT Ci;1u8ivm Copyright, I'.llli. .w Ynrk . robes in omlii-oiderel net and ehiiTon or 'liinii id Willi tlvet that are will ;idnpt-d ;idnpt-d for this purpose, f..r they are like tiini. s, falling .straight from the sbmldors i ml not to., full, f.oii- scarfs of chiffon 'an I o used as trimming, cnuirht on tin-si.ouhii tin-si.ouhii rs ;md fattened to-ffhr-r bo..w the jwalsr, irl irir the ' sluipe effect to ihe form bid; and front, but as a rule tli.y nr- so placed that they are tint cniijjit together to-gether trni lightly, as that destroys the desired de-sired Mrauht I : ii s. A pr ictieal te;i cw n :nadc from a ball town of Ih.v en d bro- jcjujc iii two shaib's of r;iv is a charming' model Itoih waist and s!;irt b;ive been lumped from the oru'inal desicii to open in front intend ,,f ,,t t,e ,nek. Then IIto is n petti, -,,;itt, or underskirt, veiled with hi cp. mii.I the front of (be whist is toiled in the s.iine mnnrier. Lona lace slecv, full from tlie slioulders. divine the lines ri-.i;:r. d l'..r a ten ironn. and a cord and tassels of fr.iv :in.l silver lire so arranged ar-ranged thai tliey make the waist line much biwer in front and irivc the effect of hohliii); in j.kicc the lace on the waist and okiri Satin or Velvet. Xnthine nn. re practical tl the pliln atin or velvet tea jrown has ever b. en le-ii:iiei. ho made with a lce r eiiibroider.-.l front r there on be ae,-..r.lion ph-at.-d . bidon. w ith bands ofj velvet or pa-fciiientcrie. the Jewelled pnse . nterie lo fr.rm Ihe petti, out nudj from of w-:iis. ..cr which the (jowii irs.'lf opens as lt:..i:i;li it were n bit: louse i"n( T!ie fronts ;iro al.v.iy loose, but : the newest ti o.l. l.-. nre ib-siirned to make the figure as slender as -sible. and tii-; side scuiin tire li.kei) ill. not to f't ticbt. bur yet to k.-ep to (lie lines of the tiijiire. ' The back fa!U from between I he shoulder; ' ii'isoluti-lv Mraiht, and the lon' Irani nl.ls height to the weare- in a most be-, 'online manner. The lace iin.Tdeeve, l elow I'io elU.w. or oven ;im long a-j thel wrist. ar: moi-r c.-ir. fully fitted to the irni, w hile b.m? o rleeves fall from tbe! sli.iubl.-r, sl,i-li" d the entire l.-nth to J . sh.c.v the arm. The fashionable tea jv'o.Mi of the winter is cut bnv ul thu neck, so.ii. ire or round as is most bo-!o'.iiiiiS. bo-!o'.iiiiiS. altliouuli fashion decrees the !Mji':ire cut is (he Mnnrter. and ut too llow. Th. re mnv be f ..' -. ,,f l ice or tulle. over the -I onl lers if more becomins, but . li e ovn istonipl.-te without ihe folds. ! I.aee tn cow ns with Inn? broende nnd Poinpadorr rout nre always In fashion, and ibis winter seem destined to be nmri poi.nlar than ecr The lace gown, w!ill rlesi-.Ti.sl to be worn with the i-oat, ia iiev-ertbel-'ss con-.plete in it-elf and Is most 'carefully litii-d. The skin is plain rr with thiee deep Untunes. o,uite narrow tut not eas;er.itedly semt. The wnlsf, of the .iiuplet desiqn, is lalln-red nrouml Ihe slioiilii.-rs ami the fulness is drawn in nl the waist line. The ilk coat is l.rose and long, but so shaped US l..t to be slm4-(-ss. and thi.- is an art indeed There are elbow shews of the silk, with rtii'J?s of lace, while the belt of i-atin ribh.ni fastened in front with a jewelled buckle, llll.shr-s the waist so perfectly that th.- tuttn tr ri U i worn with. nit the c .i: f jr a simple dinner gown. ' Voile of every description, lace net and! all tr iti-pnr. ni m.it. riuls in ail co!oi-. I plain jud t i-jr-.-d. are ued la tie; fashion- ; I able ten f...nns, I'n l the mvor.iioti pUui-lint: pUui-lint: has been n;ain leMvcd with ton.e de-luno de-luno of stpoes-: I -1. 1 iic.oi dioii pleated' owns are hnrd to make 'c.'coriln mid i..-' I.piire fc-r.'.it -kill in l tie fi.shi.jnin,;. to that' the design i.s not viie t.. be i .. sl.ly under-' taken in ih, e tll'l.-s ll Iih.I :.. ....,K. .slender and t.j have j . -l r i is: tif lin. - .is p-Mibb. ' seem to bo the ;iln'i. tl'KI of iM'el J" W.jiaisn. t'eri.un insliioiis lami.it b in-bly re. um-; liicsi.i.'.l. . 1 1 n 1 thi- is uiie that lnjsl tiaipi.. be elirolli. le j Tbo eei,iie.- wrap in:i.e of Miiiu cbi:T.Mi' or .-lel i.s .piii" unlike the wrap of hist M-ns..n. It is mil iieji'ly bo wide und at' the buck is drawn into a ridiculously J:i'-; r.w width. l'..l!.'Wintr tin- lines of the ti;d-' in skirl. 'In attain this n ppe.i i n nee of' si: nf iti'-ss with the amount ot matj-ii.ilj rcoiiisife in a rarmcnt that Is intended to be worn mer n town i o,uite a triumph, but it is done, sometimes tin- front n!i are drawn with ft band nud at the aan time are wide enoii-h bi permit of on-! side crossing over the other. Sleeve nr.. cloak nr.- rill in run.', there beiutf no do-lined do-lined nhouldi r sennt nor nrmholo nt Ji-i back or front. k cleverly is it hi. Men 'in-d.r 'in-d.r Ihe folds of the material. Wi.lo rcterK, m wide that tln-y o,iiitc cor or th-; front -;it. are pointed in nhate. and a wide K.iibir collar is n riot her addition. This last has not been unitcrsally oc-Cr"d, oc-Cr"d, :.: ' the isli nf Voet or ftd.N e .atin or Ihe band of embroidery urc still chosen in preference. I'.lack jvvi-in jvvi-in wrnm are nain sinnrt. but there are many made in the new nhab.-8 of red, bbw nnd tray that nre charmins nnd most be-comii be-comii z, nnd after all it must be ndmilt -d that a wrap to match Ihe cown or in sharp contrast is necessary if a woman w ants to look her best in the evening. Brocade and Lace. Tor practical purposes the satin coat rather than the cloak is the xmarter, and there is nothing so useful as the nil black. P.ut just because it is so practical, th liijht colored mantle half coat ami half tonk seenm more in Leepintf with an i-laborate ball pwn, and c.iui.site velvet vel-vet h, satins and brades Lh.it are now utili.ed for tliin pnriN.se show lo the nrnst ignorant that the garment is costly. Lro-c.i.le. Lro-c.i.le. fur and lace furnish a marxellous c.iinbinaliou and one that eeniK r-pccul!y well iidapted to the tfyles of t.-di ' r Ihe Inn;: ...se coat, lint too wide, show-i to perfection every' Rood line of the ligure. while the fur collar and band of fat ii.-o ind the bottom of the coat make It value more apparent, and the dainty touch ,,l u!-l hue, as fntii'i: or io u jabot, i inv.-i riiL.lv b-'ismiing. J he loug cspe.s and iiuinUeH are cer- iinlv graceful aud l-eo.min;; and arc not p. i.e entirely tbrusl to one aide in favor the .oils. (n the contrary, the fish-i..n fish-i..n is as popular as ever, and the daintiest dainti-est of elicits are given in the en; j Je (."h ue or s.iiiu chiffon and la e that ore , V....,lci-fuliv combined. Light colors nre the smartest in the eaptu and cloak, and lace and embroidery are b..th used as trimming. Hh.ck chifion and ecru kce ale also combined in the very newe-ot und tmartct of these wraps. 1 " 1 Cream Colored Voile de Soie and Gold Broca.dc uij.svr Pboto Copyright, 1910, hy KoutlioFft S Inclusive Copyricbl, 1U10. St York r 'Lr&'Q 1 Herald J XyiJ I ul te:i ..wn is Hut il u nlolutely ..:iif-.r::'!.e. A lighMj tilted gown i.-. not .marl even f..r the sl..utosi ligure. aii.l.lb'-" in.-s must be long from the shoulder to the hem ,,f the skirl. The waist of the I modern b:il enwn. ..pen in the back, must i undergo a I r.i nsforma t ion and be made ; t.. l':ise!i in foul or nt lb- side under 1 trimming or j ib..i of lace or cbiOon. ThU lis n,.t a ihllicnk task, tor any joinim; .un j' I be hidden under trimming or Ihe l.hls of.i 'ihe material. It the looks flul.by ..r the material is ii .l .r.-sh. a wondeifcd I fli.nie i ji..w possible ill the oiling with, , l.i.To.i. black or some emit ra.-i ing coh.r,': . with lice. Theie ale many patlemji knows what charming ideas can be carried out by this copying of old paintings. There are t!;is .scayon tbo most beautiful isld brocades and velvets in soft, baruioulous ton.-s of color that are in great demand and which, made up with plain satin or vehct and old lace, are exquisitely becoming. becom-ing. I'laln satin and plain velvet require much more trimming, mid while the lirbt |