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Show - . --- jsuip mats' foe autumn DAIS Wl I All Types fcgV Wear Of Faces JB By HELEN FAIXO . ft J' . ' m tt -irYl - . - ' . u . . than tbo great Coesack turban of lust winter. Soft fabrics are excellent In these turbans, as they givo opportunity opportu-nity for hats that match the gown or Its trimmings. . One In king's bluo jatin ebarmcuso to go with a costumo of this material, had the satin -wound round In deft fashion.-while from the left sldo above tho ear sprang a but the simplicity Is of a distinctly knowing variety. Perhaps tbcro is only a scarb and a big bow of tho black satin, but there are bows and bows, and no other trimming speaks mnra loudly of a clever milliner's art than does the chic bow. Another attractive little hat had the tialest of white alenclcnne3 frills set -.j. .... - .. , t - . . faille, velvet and all hat materials. The velvet facing Is even more ubiquitous auoiig these first fall hats than It was among tho summer hats, and should be welcome. Uncurled Plumage. Ostrich, feathers are more gorgeous and beautiful than ever, and arc In great favor. ,Tho uncurled variety Is of course In the lead, and the plumes themselves manipulated by skilled makers, have taken on more wonderful wonder-ful proportions than ever to accommodate accommo-date themselves to tho new crazo for height. They are wired to stand almost al-most upright, clustered In .graceful nnd charming fashion; generally one plume surrounded by lesser ones. Guinea-hen colorings, mottled combinations combi-nations of grayish brown and white of t'lllo and net In millinery. It la so iruch to the fore that volumes might be written about lt Hats now show the eame trick of veiling In Uiln materials that baa been prevalent In gowns. The tulle Is drawn over the brim from the crown to tho edge always al-ways in a color that makes contrast. For Instance, black, dark blue or mode color tulle In used over white ( r gray felt. Sometimes the edge ot tho tulle Is left to droop over the brim, framing the face delightfully; or else It Is caught In under a facing of velvet or silk. Then again, net 13 1 used In a similar fashion. One ex-I ex-I ample that Is extremely pleasing and a t.iumph of tho milliner's skill in Iti manipulation, has net laid over thi hat in narrow flutlnga, which are firm aDd exact and are not easily FREAKISH MATS x NOT FOR SMART AMERICAN WOMAN Exaggerated Styles Will Not Become Really Popular in This Country Beautiful Models Designed for the Coming Winter , often the fashion illustrated In one j of the sketches. j Turbans are again In evidence, al- ' most as strongly as last winter, though ; not so heavy in their proportions. They have become closer fitting and f cling close to tho head like a round cap, leaving exposed all the lines of f (he hair around the brow. Many are , almost perfect hemispheres, and WHENEVER I hpor mm talking, in their naive and fatucus way, of the absurdity of. women's fashions. I wonder wlint on earth they would tay If they taw pictures pic-tures of tome of the fashions" we don't wear models that milliners seem to put on the market as If to find out Just bow ridiculous women are willing to make themselves! I have just been looking at somo that surely seem to bi the culmination of a debauch of the bizarre. Hats that baflle conjecture unless they are Intended In-tended to represent a Frenchman's idea of an American skyscraper hats that should excite a historian's admiration ad-miration for their fidelity to mediaeval designs, hats that set m out of place anywhere rave in a Toe nirhtiuaie. But a point for which no man ever gives us credit. nowhere did I see these freakish models actually on a woman's head, unless, indeed, she were paid to wear it. Furthermore, this grotesque headgear v. Ill not ,bo worn, except, perhaps, by a minority of foolish women, v. ho from choice or necessity, make themselves conspicuous. con-spicuous. Moreover, tiiere i uch a variety of models shown thnt n clever woman can wear almost any kind of hat that becomes her wi'.hont being unfashionable. Height the Prevailing iS'ote. Height, it Is tnii', I; 1 1 1 dominant characteristic in lvailr ar. This l.s tho chief feature that distinguishes autumn au-tumn styles from thuse of the spring. Some crowns run up to a point. I noticed one In parthuhir that was for all the world Hue the lu-ts worn in t lie Fourteenth century. Feathers tower up like pyramids. The soft, Charlotte Corday crown will still ba popular, but broader and higher. The head-size Is distinctly lessened. The hat, though retting firmly and low on the head, does not eclipse tho neck, as has b?on a f.i-hion for months past In either small or large hats there is a new treatment of tne brims an upward curving point of the front of tho brim that is perhaps the most decided innovation of any. This feature, Keen in both picture hats and small brimmed oues, is piquant and, as a rule, very becoming, showing show-ing something of the forehead and brow of the wenrer. Hats of thl3 style have a very decided slope downward on the sides. One's eye is also ImmecUately impressed im-pressed with the extended line on tho left. In many instances almost freakish freak-ish in contour. There Is a tremendous extension at tho left side, out toward the back. Ono sees picture haU, for instance, that at the front have a brim that balances on either side, but aa tho line goes around toward the back, it springs out tremendously lu cither a point or a curve. Less Exaggeration. ! Brims that turn up against the crown are always fashioned In this wise, aud many times when looklDg at a hat face to face, It seems to be a small one closo fitting agaln3t the head, giving the effect almost of a Louis XI cap, but as tho wearer turr.3 In profile, the great swoop upward and outward quite takes one's breath away. Crowns, as a general thlsg. are very sizeable, and one bce3 almost al-most every shape round, square, pointed, or of the Charlotte Corday fashion. The mubhroom contour is Btlll decidedly in evidence, and model after model has the down-drooping brim, although, as I have 8aid, the position of the hat is not an extinguishing ex-tinguishing one. The brim does not always droop. Occasionally it rolls up sharply aralnt tho crown on one side or turns up for a couple of Inches around Its edge. lit mmm- under the edgo of Its drooping ; :. brim, a mere line of white, yet j . softening tho effect of the hat against the faco and hair won- j . -. dorfully. This same tiny frill ; of Valenciennes was a detail in ! . a good looking model, whose ; -high dome crown aud narrowly -drooping brim were covered smoothly with black velvet In- 1 Btead of black satin, and the ; white note was repeated in tho 6oft whito breast and fancy till feathers which were the addl- ! tlonal trimming. .. This same shape In beaver, a J : beautiful close, soft, plushllko !- : beaver, Is trimmed simply with i a scarf and big bow of satin at v tbo left side nnd makes an un- ' i commonly practical and good looking street hat for fall wear. Jf! These have tho showing so far ., satin, velvet and beaver. There -are other materials, of course, fl but those three havo things ery ' i much their own way, and while ' A the black satin seems most prac- f tlcal for early fall because of its :4 light weight (In fact, the black satin hats are being worn now), velvet and beaver will probably head .b" list a little later. The two are frequently associated, as are velvet and satin, velvet and clapped down like a skull cap. In the .jjck they reach well down toward tho neck, ho that their proportions, though not email, are much le.m exaggerated beautiful while aigrette, very flno and full. As for the trimming. It 13 usually of a simple sort upon the best models, are very smart and new, and tone In splendidly with soft beavers and srtln cloths. Much is to be said of the new use destroyed or wilted by damp weather. The Piquant Lace Flounce. No report of Tarla models would bo complete that overlooked the fasclnat- |
