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Show ml- 'TTgysTOXISHING AS HAS been tho ff 3 fure cap in a generation of r evanescent fashions, it Is not hard to understand tho persistent flg ' hold this trifling bit of costume has i maintained on feminine fancy. The 'jg boudoir cap camo as a fad and rc- aD malned as an indispensable. It was hea far too useful an item of tho ward- ;lDg robo to be abandoned, once woman 5 had learned to depend upon it. Llko ifM ' tho shirtwaist which everybody mm thought was a passing whim of style lUjl that would last a season or so, tho jedj i coiffure cap camo to charm for a jj l season and stayed to servo forever n,L, who knows? at any rate there Is no VzmK evldenco of any wane in Its popular- If "y. . jTjJ And as tho seasons roll on, coiffure caps become smarter and smarter. SM More and more tlmo and art are spent Bfl J . on them, and higher and higher prices jfjjj ro asked for some of them. One ffifl ' may buy a "boodwar" cap at that : Incomparable bourne of tho masses, WjLA Y "The 5 and 10;" or one may go a- jafj gleaning along the expensive llttlo fl ; streets that spray out from Fifth W ' Avenue, and pick up a breakfast cap JjJJ ; from Paris .for five or ten dollars. atffj Between tho two extremes there are JjJ : thousands of caps, most of them well f!B under five dollars and probably a third Almm 1 of them under a dollar. Away back in before-the-Clvil War times they wore coiffure caps, and i caps were kept on all day long not merely donned for breakfast and lounging hours. When President Van Buren called to pay his respects to the wlfo of one of his most respected fellow statesmen, she received him In a gown of home-woven sl'uff, wide skirted and trim waisted and with her hair sleekly banded down from parting part-ing to check and half covered by a coquettish white cap with frilled tabs over tho ears. In 1835 evory woman over forty donned a cap; and truth to tell there was a bit of vanity in tho practice for the cap covered up graj' hair, and a smoothly banded and parted false piece, showing In the front was carefully matched to the shade Its wearer's tresses used to be. In splto of Its Irrepressible coquetry, tho modern coiffure cap is a most practical Item of tho wardrobe. Besides Be-sides making Its wearer look admirably admir-ably charming in tho trying early morning hours, it encourages promptness prompt-ness at the breakfast table. The most tedious part of a morning toiletto is "fixing the hair." No woman can undertake that important business hurriedly, and hair tossed up any old way will havo to bo taken down again and more carefully arranged in mid-morning; but how easy to fluff up ' the waves in front, coll. up tho back with two hairpins and covor all delinquencies with a sightly coiffure cap that is a real addition to one's breakfast costume! No wonder a pretty coiffure cap hangs on the bedpost bed-post in every feminine sleeping chamber, cham-ber, ready-to-hand the moment a knock at the door threatens one's early morning curl-paper privacy. And some of theso caps hanging on bed posts are so cntranclngly dainty and so well matched to boudoir hangings hang-ings that one suspects they aro well calculated ornaments to tho color scheme of the room, tho actual, practical prac-tical breakfast cap being hidden In somo less conspicuous and effective spot. As a Christmas or birthday or weekend week-end gift the coiffure cap holds high rank of popularity; and many caps aro won as bridge party prizes. Somo of theso are dainty models picked up In tho shops that Import from Paris, and somo are fashioned at home, for many women have a knack of making fetching caps with their own hands and the hand-made caps aro usually tho prettiest and most distinctive. Scraps of lace, of colored balisto, of machine embroidery, of silk or ribbon are all treasures to tho woman who knows how to fashion coiffure caps and when she has to bestow a llttlo glft, flvo minutes search among her treasures and twenty-five minutes work with needle and thread will evolve the most delectable sort of present for a feminine friend. Thcro Is a good deal of art, to bo sure, in .the building ot coiffure caps. It Is not as easy as ono might suppose to put together tho llttlo scraps of laco and fabric and achlovo a headdress that has lines and chic. Every season sea-son tho silhouette of tho colffuro cap changes and ono must keep up with fashion If one's caps aro to have valuo as gifts. Tho best way is to build a pattorn cap out of worthless scraps and materials ma-terials and when tho pattern has been snipped away and taken in and lot out until its proportions aro satisfactory, satisfac-tory, It may bo ripped apart and used as a guide in cutting up moro valu-ablo valu-ablo fabrics. Just now the smart colffuro colf-furo cap outlines the shape of tho head from forehead back to crown. This lino must bo preserved If tho cup Is to havo chic, as all Paris made caps havo whatever their whimsies of shape or trimming. Tho mob cap, with full crown gathered Into a ribbon rib-bon band and frill around tho edge Is not at all fashlonablo though ono will And plenty of this stylo at tho aforementioned "6 and 10." Tho modern mod-ern cap must have individuality, even if its Individuality Is a trifle bizarre. Of course, the hand mado caps of real lace and beautiful hand needlework needle-work on a sheer fabric aro the most expensive and tho most desirable. Ten or twelve dollars Is not an excesslvo price to pay for a hand mado cap from Paris; so thoSvoman who can build pretty caps by hand has It In her power to bestow really, beautiful and valuable gifts or to furnish her guests with bridge prizes really worth tho wlnnlucr. Tho thrco coiffure caps pictured aro hand made models, two hailing frcm Paris and tho third Toeing Toe-ing a copy of a French cap mado recently for an autumn bride by ono of her bridesmaids. This last cap is tho ono with a ribbon bow a la Alsace across tho front and pretty as It lsH the model should bo easy to fashion by any clover needlewoman. First A bit of mnclilnc embroidery, strips of Vnl lnco and n handful of crystal beads. Rut It is the draped back effect Ukc a Hod Cross headdress that is Interesting-. was built a large skull cap with a circular plcco of hand embroidered linen for tho top and a wido strip of laco for tho sides of tho cap. This skull cap Is tipped back on tho head by a strip of hand embroidered linen I Normandy lace and machine embroidery embroid-ery aro combined in this Frcnchy cap with n turned back frill for brim and Nattier ribbon rib-bon nt tho back. which pusses over tho brow from car to ear. A small visor of lace below this strip lengthens tho flat lino from brow to back of head. Finally a frill of laco finishes tho cap, tho laco frill I I An exqulsito French cap of real Vai LM lace and hand embroidered linen mWM with thb new flat lino from LM forehead to crown that tills year's cap must tapering from tho back to the visor In front Tho bow of plcot ribbon and a garland of tiny silk flowers add dainty trimming. Ono of tho French caps is a straight strip of laco and embroidery, caught back like tho headdress of a Red Cross nurse. Tho other cap is eml- LM nently Parisian with its frills, stream- MMM crs and silk roses. WU |