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Show YOUR CROWNING GLORY AND ITS CARE U The Popular French Twist Is One of the Coiffures Used to Enhance ! ' the Beauty of the Hair Read How It Is Done and Use It As Suggested On This Pdge I BY LUCILLE DAUDET, BOOKING at some women's heads you would think that they consider their hair a curse rather than a blessing. They either draw it together into ono hard, ugly knot, or else they let it fly In all directions until they look demented. de-mented. Were you to ask them the reason for their carelessness they would. In nine cases out of ten, tell you tney can't do a thing with their hair. ThiB statement they offer freely wthout ever having made an effort lo bring out the best in their hair. Hair is a gift that is essential to womaifs beauty. For this reason every woman should realize tho importance of keeping keep-ing her crown of glory In a shining and healthy condition. Just as important as tho care of tho hair is the manner in which it is arranged. ar-ranged. The style changes the contour of a woman's face as much as a war changes a country's map. A woman Should study her features very careful- ly before arranging her hair in any style. Shd should consider her nose, her chin, her neck, her ears, separately and collectively. In general, it Is far more becoming, and is always moro graceful, for tho side hair to He horizontally hori-zontally than to be drawn up straight from the ears; it makes the ears very prominent and reveals the somewhat ugly way tho hair grows around them. By using hairpins tho hair can be trained to drape the ears in a becoming becom-ing manner. The woman with a small, well-shaped head can afford to wear her hair close to her head; but the woman with a large head with irregular "bumps" should bo most particular to arrango her hatr in a way to conceal faulty lines. A sharp-pointed nose would be accentuated ac-centuated were the owner of the same to wear her hair in an extended psycho at the back. It behooves a woman with such a nose to dress her hair rather low. ' The French twist which I am going to tell you about today Is generally becoming be-coming to the older woman with a round face. It should not be worn by the young girl. In arranging the hair thus ono may experience difficulty at first, but a little experienco will soon make one an adopt in this particular line. The first thing to. do is to have the hair waved, either by means of irons or curlers. Next brush the hair down over the face, the shoulders and tho back. Carefully divide the hair at the crown of the head into ar strand large enough to make a braid. Pin thiB braid to th'o head, so that you will have a foundation on which to work. Divide the hair in front on either side. Comb the middle section back lo form a low pompadour, and then pin the strand to tho foundation. A make- flJ up pencil will be found convenient for I making an artificial hair line. It will fli also servo as an end to aim for when Sm coaxing the hair to fall In a graceful s manner. ' a Next pick up a generous strand o( I I hair reaching from the temple to tho f middle of the head in back. This comb $ up over the head until It is as smooth 1 as the hair in the photograph- Now bring up tho hair that has thus ' far been uncaught This also must bo combed until it lies smoothly over the 1 head. Tuck tho cndB all carefully be- ' neath the drawn-over hair. You will S find it quite necessary to use a great number of hairpins, ao that no ugly ends will crop out and thus spoil the entire effect Such a stylo of hairdressing makes the hair line at the nape of the neck f very prominent. If the stylo ia gener- f ally becoming but the hair lino is marred by the appearance of stubborn k ends, it would bo well to curl these ends as often as necessary. Or, better ,5 I still, tho use of artificial curls could 2; j well be made to beautify such a hair f line. If you appreciate your gift of hair, give It proper care, so that it will add j to rather than detract from j'our gon- oral appearance. The majority of U3 cannot afford visits to a hairdressor, ' but wo can keep the hair in a healthy condition at home. ij A thorough brushing every night will do wonders to keep the hair f, healthy and attractive. If you wear your hair back from the brow, brush X it over the brow. If you wear it part- g cd, brush the hair straight back of tho i neck to the forehead. Then brush tho 1! hair from ear to ear. This, done Y carefully, will stimulate tho circula- ton of tHe blood through tho scalp. After the thorough brushing you j, shouldr massage tho scalp well. Slip j j l- r .1 i. 11.. I. t .1. V (iiu nutria luiuu&u me iiu.il iu iuc 4 scalp; gently move them around and 1 around on the scalp until you feel it 4 loosen under the pressure of the finger v motion. Go over the entire scalp. r If your hair is oily to such an ex- V tent that you cannot arrange it proper- f ly, you should use a good tonic which i is minus oils. An oily head requires J. more frequent washings than a dry $ one. In between shampoos use alcohol y on the hair. Mix with It a little oil of r bergamot, if you object to the odor of V the alcohol. Dip absorbent cotton into the solution and rub ft on the hair. Tho h alcohol cuts the grease and the cotton A removes it from the hair. Be sure lo J use plenty of clean cotton during the dry shampoo process. I Hair that is uurcalthy dry should be J . treated to tonics containing oil. Plain t castor oil will be found effective, Ap- f; ply it with a medicine dropper to the jt scalp after dividing the hair into V strands. Then rub the oil well Into tho ; scalp. Do not apply it to the hair. For jj this, brilliantine can be used. j. 0 I HAT this is a season of elab- v E orate trimming cannot be 1 e doubted. Embroidery and soutache braid are even more jj" in vogue than they were last season. S The latter decorates net or filet em- ; broidery', either applied or carried out ) in designs, is worked in with it At the L same time the rule of great simplicity . of adornment, as regards suits, and of unlimited decoration, In the case of 4 dressy toilets, whether designed for ,7 - day or evening wear, holds good and ,p women should be careful to see that K lj dresses are trimmed suitably for tho r s purposes for which they aro intended. ; i |