| Show The HWd f lJ t ca Suggestions fJ BH Preparing Pre p a r g Fane f ria e elL lL Le i er 1 LINGERIE I INGERIE a lJ word that mat we WC weha have ha vc adopted from front the time French we have hae I changed from i its t s original meaning of a aa a f i place where linens arc 1 e kept to lo a compre comprehensive pensive title for nil all allwhite s r white garments that may m 01 a be laundered whether we mean a gown of fine hand handkerchief kerchief linen a waist of lawn or under J wear of batiste or All of oC these garments being unlined require a different seam from the usual lined tined and boned boncel gowned they must have hae in fact the time lingerie finish which is that no raw edges ed es may be left to lo toI I show from front the outside out ide through the sheer r 1 C f r F material What is known as the French scam selm and is is also called a bag seam scam is most frequently used as the time appear appearance appearance ance from front time the outside is the time same as asan asan an ordinary scam seam To make it the garment should be basted for fitting filling with the scams seams to toward toward toward ward the time outside After fitting filling if any my alterations have been made trim Irim the scams to lo the regulation of an inch wide then make the first row of sewing of oC an inch from irom the time therl raw rl edges Now remove the time bastings q t 4 4 r t 4 d L Lr r 1 S b 3 I FRENCH SEAM II FELLED SEAM SE L III RUFFLE WITH STROKED GATHERS IV GATHERED RUFFLE INSERTED IN HEM V ROLLED AND WHIPPED RUFFLE turn luni the scams toward the inside of the garment and aunt stitch on the line where time the bastings were A As 5 the second row of oC stitching will be only of an m inch from the row already made this first row will hold the scam securely making maling basting r unnecessary The fin t I IL L J I I mh isled scam will be of oC an inch wide with the time raw edges turned inside It il whence the common name bag scam The French scam is shown at illustration illustration tion don I When pressing turn the seam edges edge toward first one side then lien the time other All the finer qualities of lingerie are arc supposed to be made by hand but care careful careful careful ful with willm an even ten tension tension tension sion moderately loose on both upper and under treads threads is equally satisfactory tory and very vet much much quicker Some Sonic sewers prefer the machine because of the greater lter elasticity of the stitch but bul if the proper care is is given shen to lo the tension the lockstitch machine gives results that arc quite as good goodA A careful operator regulates the ten tension tension sion and also the pressure bar the up upright upright upright right bar to which the pressure foot is attached and which is regulated by a screw band at the time top lop according to the material immaterial that is being worked upon n It Itis T nis is hardly fair to the best besl machine to ex expect expect expect it to produce equally perfect stitch cry ery on heavy hea woolen cloth and fine ba bt batiste tiste without this regulation The Time French seam is used mused for joining g the gores of lingerie skirts the front am amback and back sections sect ons of oC shirtwaists and of oC chil childrens childrens childrens drens dresses and for the seams scams o of nightdresses chemises and md other under underwear underwear underwear wear it is also used in making silk petti pelti petticoats coats A great many lingerie waists have fine embroidered beading sometimes called hemstitched beading heading inset in ht the lle seams eams and though thought in handmade waists this is joined by the rolled edges of the time beading and waist material together it may be much more rapidly done with vilh the French scam making it il ilin itin itin in this case as narrow as possible no not allowing the full mill of an aninch aninch aninch inch At illustration II is iJ shown a felled fellet scam seam which makes a I perfectly flat and smooth finish but hut is not always desirable for dresses because the time second row o of oC stitching or of oC hand hemming that thal se secures secureS secures cures the edge shows on the time outside I It Itis Itis is used in making mens shirts and is particularly well adapted for Cor tIle to shoulder i iI I Y I A h and side scams ms of infants infanta petticoat e ti at I r i and also al for joining join ng unlined yokes to f C dresses or waists The regulation three m I I seam scam is stitched in the usual kl 1 1 I manner time the raw edges edge ed es toward the inside 1 of oC the garment one edge is then trimmed rimmed off leaving only enough cloth f to o extend a safe distance beyond tho I stitching The remaining seam edge it is i I turned turne under and hemmed either by b hand handor I or machine to lo the cloth covering th the f rc fi stitching and the narrow raw edge of 5 I the first scam sam I t tI I I r Lace I H n i hib There is so much inexpensive lace to tobe t b a be found principally the French and l f German Val imitations that it is greatly c cusce used to trim tram even een the most inexpensively planned garments but the very cheap lp Y V qualities ties have little of oC beauty or service to commend them only the better belter r r I grades which closely follow the o 0 i patterns arc lre suitable for the really r lly nice t I i clothing that one expends the time and Il II labor to make For underwear lr it will willbe willbe willbe be infinitely better belter to use ruffles and frills u of the material which may mayor or may ma not be edged with a lace A narrow very c I good effect without the use IIse of oC lace is 1 11 i obtained by making the frills of oC fine i sheer lawn or dimity the contrast with i I Ithe Ithe the cambric or of r I which the garment is made greatly in increasing 1 creasing their decorative value i i If simple frills seem falling into disuse 3 i it is because the time art of preparing them 3 I I properly ng the gathers it used to tobe tobe t be called is practically cIl a lost art yet i 1 V j i without this neat stroking ng the frills lose r greatly in value and importance A 1 small section of oC a frill gathered and 1 i 1 stroked is shown at illustration III II I IThe The gathering is ms done in m the usual u I I i manner with what is called the time uneven t the stitch on the under underside underside underside side being only half the length of that I l Ion lon Ion on the upper though tho h all the stitches studies on 1 tl either cither side s de must be alike in length lengths Do Donot Donot m 1 not n ot use a l thread that is is too long if the gathered edge when finished fini hed is to lo bo be 1 more than of oC ard I j I a yard long t tit l tit I it is better to use two threads and divide d vide i ithe the ruffle into halves marking at each division with w th a colored thread divide f fand 2 l i and mark the edge to which the ruffle rume t is to be applied m in the time same manner I After the edge is gathered draw the t i thread out at the lefthand side of the gathers drawing the edges up very full run in a pin perpendicularly into inlo the th i lefthand end of oC the time ruffle and wind the I I thread around it under the head and the point in the time form of the figure ligure 8 S Use a coarse needle to stroke r i and place it in the time fold of each stitch laying a little plait toward the time left leCt and 1 I holding it under the thumb of the time left lefthand lefthand I hand Gathering a nUm Do not scratch the material with the th needle use it only to stroke each plait e gently g into place After the gathers are stroked remove the pin at the end and t I distribute them evenly een over the length of thread A ruffle rume gathered in this way j must be attached in in a manner that will conceal the le raw edge If only a l seam al allowance allowance lowance is provided lay la the right side of the frill against the right side of the garment to which it is to be attached i with the seam edges even r baste basic the seam scant then them lay layover over the frill a narrow piece of oC the immaterial to lo serve as a fac facing facing facing ing and amid include its edge in the time same scam and stitch iL it it Turn the facing over on the inside of oC the garment turn under the time edge and hem it This finish is sometimes called a false hem hern At illustration IV is shown the method of oC insetting the frill fr in a regulation re hem bent 1 Cut the hem along its lower fold edge 1 seam scam the frill to this edge then turn under tinder the lower edge of oC the I 1 of bf the hem and hem it either cither by hand or machine to cover the time raw edges of the scam seam There is another nother method of gathering a ruffle rume that was commonly employed by bythe bythe bythe the expert of oC our grand grandmothers grandmothers grandmothers mothers day da and that is the rolled and whipped ruffle shown at illustration V There is is a little l knack to lo the rolling which however may be readily acquired and the stitch is a t regular stitch taken at regular distances over the rolled edge edgy The rolling is begun at lot the side by b rolling roiling over the time corner and once t started is easily continued across cross being done by the thumb and finger of the time left lefthand lefthand lefthand I hand and kept only far enough ahead of the whipping to have the time edge properly prop prepared for each stitch These gathers gather require no stroking as IS the drawing up of time the thread folds each stitch into its proper place There is no raw edge to tobe tobe tobe be disposed of oC when a whipped ruffle rume is isto 1 to be attached to a 1 garment The ruffle rume is measured the distributed evenly over the desired space then hold holding holding holding ing the whipped edge of oC the he ruffle rume even with the time edge to lo which wh h it is to be applied ap applied applied plied a second row of overhand stitches is made through both i iI I I I I l VV h |
