Show DINER PAYS 90 CENTS FOR SIX SNAilS IN Ns N VI Sr SMART ART PLACES Chef Prepares Sauce Especially for Ameri Amen American can Use SERVED IN SHELL Some Skill Required lu In Getting Getting- Morsel From Container BY NEA XEA Service NEW TORK March You 18 It can judge a 0 man mon not only by the tho company he keeps but by what en rles on the menu card cord he Ito ploys plays when he Is out In company The Tho New Englander on the slightest lightest provocation pro calls call for pie Your middle westerner will betray his geography by eating corned beef and cabbage The southerner wants fried chicken chicken- chicken But Dut when a 0 man or woman calls for malls mark him or her well You are In the pres- pres once of oC a cosmopolite a 0 cate cate a II bon or vivant vivant or any better that occurs t to to- your mind ASK ASH HE KNOWS S The Th snail eaters eaten Increase In num number bel In direct proportion to the tho sophistication of oC any given area area according to Jullen Julien chef at Sher- Sher Sherry's Sherry's s ry rys ry's Well does Jullen Julien remember when snails were accorded not the slightest gastronomic recognition In America But Dut now he exclaims proud proud- proudly 13 ly Iy and now expansively expansively now we serve sene them every day That shows show New NewYork NewYork NewYork York Is becoming Eating snails Is the test tot Con Con- Consider Consider sider eider Paris The restaurants on the boulevards always alwan have ha ape ape- specialized specialized doused on snails Of OC course the smartest snails are the tho Imported varlet variety No one so far ha hit upon the Idea of getting rid of the garden type Ipe You ou encounter In dewy mornings among the rose rosa bushes bushea 0 or In the truck patch by personally consumIng consuming ing them The Th French snails come over rt class and go to to only the tho th first class cares cafes cafe of New York where the tho snail eating clientele has haa been carefully developed Jullen Julien has Invented a new sauce for snails enalls which he b sate Is par par- particularly particularly par particularly suited to the th American palate THE TUE In tn I France rance the snail I Is stewed In wine Here Her he Ime Is taken from his shell and boiled until his identity I Is somewhat lost then be Is dressed with butter and various trick foliage foliate put back In his shell hell and baked again for 10 minutes The snail now Is ready for tor his entry Into the dining room lie He nets 90 cents for tor six of him To cat eat a snail atall you must mut know how to manage manago your tools You have a set ot or o pincers You grasp the thc shell with your left hand while you OU fork out the th contents content with your right Snails Snail arc are preferred to oysters by many gour gour- gour gourmets me mets I reports Julien Jullen Or they very correctly may follow rollow the soup Fo For the midnight supper they are Ideal The Tb Fr Frenchman eats them for tor breakfast he breakfast he also allo eats them at any time ho can get them so delicious they are arc JUlien Jullen views the Increasing con con- consumption con consumption sum of snails with delight America Is growing up he h observes observes ob- ob serves nr- nr |