Show l Y fieY fie r rI 1 1 Medley I I err BY SARA ABA MAE MARSHALL COOK I 4 n n i 1 ui h f I IV V att r p I 1 et tt 1 il n f t tr Ij V rn 1 t F AJ Vj- Vj v b v n J A fly 1 tl 1 r L s I o Io 1 fV 0 q uJ tr 1 c f Iv J 1 1 i Bak BakR R f Vv A f rn I t IA Y l of t aJ IXl J W It j r wrig rig I 0 V ul ulI Q Rn a 0 i iI w I I rr r I r 4 t p I 1 1 h- h hI r- r rC ra C a t I 4 I q f U T I S Irl l I 1 J 1 i 7 71 J J j 1 F I r oO v vY I Y h rl 1 I J I f A I ti i 4 1 e Id a r t tr m ii r jy p cj tRy 1 e I 1 iY V a 1 r J r r h r l tl F Fr r 1 l t nV Z v SF L 4 a rt 1 2 t l J I IV IVI I II l a a 1 J Ja Jt w I l lt t l I 1 I h 1 r t tJ J I J 1 rl i f i II lq J t 1 Ll i ti N t l 1 v 1 k J Jl l 1 t tr tI r I I o 11 I f w 1 s d 4 JJ M L a J I t c jf rr u I at I 4 1 t 1 I I fg Ys f it n xv 4 1 IV 1 l J i I oJ f r zik 1 11 I I I Jl 1 fry r rI o off I 4 A At I left left- H r Y I- Ij j I t i V n IV f Drecoll of 0 b x r r t ti i I r ri rr rr 1 J j t 1 bl blI blI act I I face ace and anda a a Camb Jg I I M 1 0 Q C-Q 1 M fC W 7 n l 11 r rl I V blade swim alm The Then Dr Drecoll coll in 1 1 I a n 4 r J ts Ii y t tf t fr rock oc In I I 1 4 1 I v 1 i M 1 embroidered moil Nindo c cI t I e r rI J I JI I 1 y f forming the I h e cen- cen cenI an I print n dh drapery JJ JJr lure I Ih the 3 drawn at al the ri r 1 1 h hUTe UTe acro across c n Up 1 a j Iy 1 rr J color r back backI I front I is In y i IU h Y hI ht CIA I t If t ti d dr dI di r I I i l lI t r J I t t v s ys s 1 y yr r t ht J I IIO r J I Lamm frock of 0 ahlie embroidered In a crystal tal beads bead let Jet 1 and an vcr silver threads n lh huge bow of black blac satin salm at the back Lan Lan- tin Lan ff 11 VII 1 c 1 J un Hn J dress reu In m bl black white h lie an and d I I CT lace I ace with bow bon al at file side f 11 ti v r V I rt ioV i S I I I J JHn I c II 1 c II x Y r j- j A 1 r i c I I ro 1 JI 4 t A c J 11 1 4 Af 7 I i v I Many Types Are Offered T EVER has there been a season season sea- sea seaN NEVER N son when greater liberty IS I J allo allowed ed in dress It is absolutely the moment when hen a woman oman v i 1 may wear ear what pleases her best I Practically nothing is demode I through the spring openings because while the dressmakers dressmaker hale lla e sounded the full gamut of variation they have 1 not launched a distinctly pew lIew note To say what hat is to the fashion therefore js is is impossible because practically everything is the fashion I IOne One speaks of prints as the new I t note but they are not really new It ItI ItIs I isI Is their emphasis pel perhaps haps which is I new because there is a host of them Lace is not new but there aro are many I lace dresses Wide Wido ts are no noI I I novelty but these crinoline effects are shown Mown by everybody Berthas I clime came in as a II novelty last season but they again agam adorn many frocks Dead Bead embroideries enes continue to claim a fair J proportion of attention Silk and metal embroideries are ale moro more than thane e eier eer er in vogue ogue despite the fact that throughout the winter season Just passed they have been seen on every ery kind of garment i iOne One of Drecoll's most beautiful dresses is made of lace laco combined with nth black satin It well el deserves Its name namo festival despite its somber tone It is all in black e except the beautiful embroidered motif forming the across the front and lifting the drapery in a II high lugh stomach effect emphasized in so many of the recent models The lace forms along a along along long cape back in an unusually charming way The model is sketched in the panel at the center of thIs page Lanvin and lace are arc easily asso- asso associated asso associated because of the fact that this f 1 I r I t maker has had so much to do with the vogue for wide skirted dresses Lace lends itself very ery well HII to this Idea Distinctly interesting ate ale ban Lan vins sins sin's dinner dresses in black and silver lace in which the over over- overskirt skirt over skirt of lace is draped on a straight chemise foundation but the lace 0 is so mounted with Its thickly corded with Ith its un- un uneven uneven un uneven even hem and huge butterfly bow in brilliant contrast that it gives a dashing note So much for cleverness clever clever- cleverness cleverness ness which takes the most classIC Idea and by a dieter clever twist changes change it into a high novelty A Revival of Polonaise And Bustle Effects pHILLIPE d GASTON make rather dressy things in lace often combining beige and brown This house also affects the cape back backon backon backon on many of its models the result being dignified dresses for matrons of cons conservative en taste I i Prints are everywhere those in designs that is isto isto isto to say Chinese Hindo-Chinese Drecoll hasa has hasa hasa a lovely model to which he gives the name This is developed In an Oriental printed crepe Maro Maro- cain Maro-cain cain combined with navy blue reps II a material which the French like very much This is a II charming little Polonaise effect made of ot the printed silk over oer a skirt of navy blue the printed drapery being hiked up in inthe inthe inthe the back in the form of a cascading bow Almost every little blue serge erge three piece suit has its top lop of some sote printed material Agnes has made madea a moot moat mo t attractive model by choosing her foulard so discreetly using mote mOle frequently than anything else elso Ii t T C n y o A 1 r r 7 l tp o eJ t I I tt sr 1 I I ol Z is-Z l ry 1 I and white hite and navy prints in III con con- connectIOn connection con connection with Ith blue serge Jenny shows some interesting cloth dresses a mot most mo t successful model being one of blac black reps which ha has a snake like ornament encircling the bod body the snake being made of ofa ofa a blac black and gold braid startlingly I natural This dress s has a II charming S swing mg tot to it t but if one does docs not like I the tho snake J Jenny enn I replaces this orna- orna ornamentation ornamentation orna ornamentation with aith a most fascinating i ram rainbow bow colored sou tach almost as fine as a silk thread and to bo be had in every imaginable color clev- clev cleverly cleverly clev cleverly erly assembled to mako make most satis- satis satisfying satis satisfying f mg combinations Jenny uses quantities of seline selme and a great gJ eat deal of piece lace In her hei afternoon dresses di dl esses and some of them have hate ery lines Imes for instance a black lace called Ariane has a straight fourreau covered with th lace upon which lace pawls pap flow front from the belt theo thew thee are aro about nine inches wide and have a beaded edge Similar panels which alternate with these hang from the shoulders float float- floating floating ing above the belt There are arc also II a number of lace berthas which are arc quite long enough to form boleros A Double Waistline Achieved By Wearing Narrow Belts THE F THE TIE dresses in spite of ot their float float- floating floating ing panels are very ery straight in effect as the thc underlining is tight and qUite short Such dresses have Cry ery original belts that are arc narrow and in I r V VY VI Y I f fJ J r u I U I rk tr two tao divisions one just below the thew w mat alst and one falling at the hips In one case there is a serpent of beads which is WI wrapped three throe or four tunes times around the bod body quite loosely above the waist al t and tighter about the hips This maker maer keeps to her tradition of fluffy evening dresses using much lace and da de e sure many of the lace skirts are very full on the hips and unlike most of the full full- hip full hip hip skirts are extremely short rS l J JI SKI If A its l k k ki kt i t reaching almost to the knees The silhouette is quite pretty because the waist aist is rather short There may be some smut sort of trimming such as bands of embroidery or of flo flowers floers ers II a quarter of a II yard deep on the the hipS which causes the fullness to stand standout standout standout out without its being berng padded many in anyway any way a Organdie dresses are also made in inthis inthis inthis this way ay with two to pleats causing the hips to stand out Most skirts of this sort Ort arc are split open up to the waist in m front and float aside show show- showIng showing showing ing a very ery close dose little under slip under is of a plain piam taffeta or crepe embroidered with pith Ith a delicate design This is a II very successful solution of the full skirt idea and as the waist alst above aboe is not too closely fitted the ImpreSSion is of ot an up-to-date up dress rather than of ot a picture l idea ea Ode of the best dresses is called rh Phoebus bus busand and is of gold piece lace ofa of a HI ery y light The hips of this cry are aro arll cry full fuli but not in any way set setout setout setout out The ski skirt is split and the gold lace floats There b Is a pink lin-ing- lin m mg ing I is showing braid trimmed dresses He lIe uses extremely narrow tY sv 1 l ls s h iAn y VV y i E r I f I J JA y r A I ra a f fY Y a v J 1 1 r 4 1 Y it lJ Y IS a SI w u Y t rt rr r r I M 1 r t cren r I I G s e v I i iy y a r Jr kG a aY Y g x s j 2 T Sy I h hi i n tR J hyo a I 1 S r 7 71 1 y i t 9 I II It II I I J it n nf f tt 1 Model from Doucet of 0 crepe de Chine wilh- wilh cascading draper and anda a trimmed braid crepe de Chine frock from Paul I braids in brilliant colors on crepe de Chine and crepe Headds He lie adds little tassels in silk of brilliant closing colors lie He is affecting the side one-side closing of uneven cut which closes Madeleine high Madeleine successful success success- ful ful and nose novel ei front closing Doucet is trying to get back Into the good grace graces of the public by byI I showing g many simple silk dresses I Imade made in crepe de Chine with charm charm- charming charming ing mg right fIght side cascade and left side straight lines Imes Short Jacket Suits Take Prece Prece- Precedence Precedence Precedence dence From Style Standpoint THE THE short jacketed suits take prey prec prec over oer other styles froma I standpoint of numbers as well as Particularly does the Q short snort jacket stand out among the models by so-called so fashion leaders rs I such as Chanel Jenny Drecoll Beer and Agnes Some of the models are so simple as to male make Ole oie wonder why hy they are put out as models but then one must admit j their charm chann and that probably is i ithe I the answer Worth shows many lit lit- little lit little tle tie all over embroidered jackets to tobe tobe tobe be worn orn with simple cloth skirts toI I t I has beaded jackets with wool reps skirt t Beer shows shows a beautiful green reps r I SUI suit t in a short jacket in which the I collar cuffs and girdle are covered with Ith a bead embroidery picked out II in green and black The Tho straight little jacket has interesting tucked j fullness in h in both the body and sleeves and there are plaited side panels is in inthe isI inthe I I I the skirt Lanvin affects large bows and an Impressive note for an evening coso cos- costume cosoI cos costume anI I I tume is often given through the placing placing ing of a smashing bow in marked I I contrast to the dress Lanvin has bas I designed a lovely evening dress in I II white satin with a sprinkling star star- star like I I f 1 like design almost a constellation I r i done in silver sliver embroidery crystal p beads and jets At the back is a R n huge bow in jn black satin salin This L model is shown Into days in days to-day's sketch k t tr r t tr vr r r rZ Z I 74 Y |