Show r gt 3 I Fr r r f I v r 4 sw v vc c dV Sw 11 n li rP rPt 1 t ini f t L I r r 1 Iff 1 IT N New Ideas IOn in Dress i 4 e la h M f 0 r 4 t tys i l i f a t dJ Jo t tr r ITe e W f k i f J J if P h I V r 1 I 1 j l t Y l l t I rY MAn HALL COOK u QI SARA An IQ I l 1 r I f i COOKi s oJ 11 I 4 t r Il cil l 0 1 ci tJ rJ 1 It t I 1 III i i r r l lI l 1 I r Wi i I l ly t I i W i j- j t tI 1 J jf f y I I I r i 1 r 11 a adl dl roe t J l N d I r n I r t 1 1 4 11 T i 1 1 Y t ab l J v j 1 1 1 fir IV f C td f ff r re i l 1 ilk I r f t tl g r l 1 i 1 r rI ii Ut I d dA J JJ a 11 4 1 rIP str l- l yr A Jt S the e t II NY r a o I J amr a a r rr tl f J rk v t ti sr lt fh I r 1 nh r r r If 1 4 i f Pis Fr I N f fI 1 qI I sk Ib I q t It t f e tp fr 1 r I t r r r rr rn It f Y 2 t r it S t 4 P F r n j tI P i 1 1 r 5 1 I sl f i t tf t rt L l lw w 1 I Ii r iI f iJ 1 end Y II i I f 1 r i i dqrA t 4 a Z 1 i o it w i iZ j Ic IcI r W j r r I x M r r k ko o- o oI or I Lewis model in draped t r I turban effect developed in II Y r V V 1 blan straw strap t I I i Lanvin Will Wil N Not t Forego Forego- Wide Skirts Lanvin collection this sea sea- season season sea season TilE THE son is particularly notable be- be because because be because cause of the persistence of Madame Lanvin Lamm in continuing to em- em emphasize em emphasize the wi wide wida li skirt She has therefore not varied her idea in m eve eve- evening evening ning clothes very greatly seeming to prefer the 1830 styles to any others She sho shows s some changeable taffeta dresses the skirts If it any any- anything anything thing are both wider and longer some of them enormous One can ean hardly imagine a young oung girl wear wear- wearing wearing ing mg them because of the sober color and mature outline Along with tho the wide skirted cos- cos costume costume cos costume tume Lanvin is showing the poke bonnet Ono One might almost say the sunbonnet as it looks more like a Shaker bonnet the curtain at the back than the ordinary poke Lan Laurin LanIn In shows these with many of her wide-skirted wide dresses the bon bon- bonnet bon bon- bonnet bonnet net often being made of the tho same materIal usually changeable taffeta in somber tones Harking back to the history of this fashion one finds that during the Consulate and the Empire and even as late as the Restoration the poke bonnet was a marked rc feature in Paris fashions One wonders if Lan Lan- LanIn Lanvin Lanvin vin In will sill let this idea carry her into all the eccentric forms in sunbonnets or so-called so pokes poles that existed dur dur- dur- dur during during ing mg these periods of eccentric dress The Chinese Motif Embodied In Some Interesting Dresses MANY mANY women seeing these clothes for t the e first time will sill 1 get qUite a shock One Model is in m black sIne faille with a wide aide godet skirt and anda a basque bodice the most frankly fashioned old fashioned and unbecoming thing that can be Imagined It was sas as ob- ob observed ob observed served that this model wad wa was not taken by anyone any one of the buyers from Amer Amer- AmerIca America ica who bo went ent to Paris seeking in m inspiration Turning away assay from the more mare or less commonplace though admittedly Impractical wide skirts Lanvin sho shows s a number of int interesting dresses in m which the Chinese motif is marked She has at least half a doyen dOTen dresses trimmed in the round eve bulls e eye bulls e tassel centered motifs so characteristic of Chinese decoration She has a lovel lovely navy blue satin done in tins thus way and also a charm charming mg ing black dress in m which these motifs are in silver She carries this idea to the extreme showing sho it on some dresses with the motif at least t eho inches in diameter Thus only one vv ill II appear on tho the skirt and another on the bodice She has one model where here this huge eye bulls ornament m in the form of a heavy embroidery makes a pouch-like pouch point in m the skirt drapery draper Throughout the entire line Ime Imeone one sees many ninny variations of this particular motif Embroidered Cockades and Bouquets ts Adorn Silk F Frocks RICH embroideries continue to characterize the tho work worl of this designer who vho now uses large round embroidered motifs on bodices sleeves and skirts are arc used in the same way ay and are strikingly effective Large Largo old-fashioned old bou bou- bouquets bou- bou bouquets bouquets embroidered in natural color color- colorings colorings colorings ings adorn silk frocks while mara mara- marabou marabou bou forms borders for bouffant skirts and lines handsomely embroidered taffeta wraps The big chou of chiffon which Is being used so effectively by various dressmakers also is a feature of Lanvin's new models but while others pose it at the side Lanvin places it directly in the back like a bustle Lanvin Lamin shows a few very clabo elaborately elaborately beaded and j je jeweled e dresses of no unusual character except for theIr beautiful coloring They are m in line straight straight-I straight line me effect extremely de- de de-collette de collette and slee sleeveless eless l fa Taken ken as a whole Lanvin's Lamins collectIOns collections collections show longer skirts than most of the other houses Even her most ordinary are not more than four to tofi fi five fie e inches fl om the floor and her Second Empire models often sweep the ground This TIns maker shows many long sleeves most of them almost close A d JJ r I 1 4 1 N 71 Y Y c T I ItI IJ tI tr r r x f fr i J r f l li r r rI I r i it 01 I i r rr rr r r t ll I Ih h 6 t t I w I mm Y 1 r j ij i s sz so II I o z i 1 f- f fr r f lJ I f I t t Jf erg v v i I F r i t n i A vrr u r 1 Q 1 0 t M r n 1 C CI I K 4 tt- tt r i i r Y t r I iL i j- j g i rJ v r lr lilt 11 t tu tl u jq f fa a I f mk t s f fr r t l t tr r t- t tI v r 1 o r v n d dl l 1 f r ri ra t l i I t Lanvin suit of black and silver grey cashmere serge The coat coal is isMarl a wIllIe the is and the blade Marl with gre embroidery embroider gre grey pleated overskirt o black to match the jacket v r Vo 7 wo models from torn Lanvin Lanvin- Theone The Theone one at the left t is ofa of a vivid blue crepe with witha a fichu Lichu of heavy cream lace and ana that at al the die right is of black and grey embroidered em- em em embroidered broidered with grey beads fitting She Slie has a few gauntlet cuffs and some sonic detached slee sleeves es starting from above the elbow leave the upper arm bare Generally speaking one might say that she has abandoned her very elaborate puff sleeves which were such a feature last season She sho shows s much less the Italian RenaIssance tendency Aside from her Second umpire Empire motifs she seems beems to be bo moving toward Greek and Oriental sources for inspiration inspiration inspiration tion Lanvin suits are many of them in inthe inthe inthe the short Chinese jacket st style stile Ie with plaited apron over skirts or panels hanging straight over a rather snug fitting under skirt often in contrast contrast- contrastIng contrasting contrasting I ing color In the suits suite one finds a great great ten tendency tendency lency to combinations of black and gray One of the big suc- suc successes successes suc successes of the Riviera season was a aSUit asuit asuit SUit shown on this page which is developed in black and silver gray cashmere serge The gray is worked up with elaborate embroideries and applications as a trimming for the jacket Here also one finds the big bell sleeves with tight fitting under under sleeves sleeves wrinkling around the wrist I I 0 r- r rS S Small mall b I l 1 lII a II c e J k taffeta cloche SV cloche hat ornamented with with witha ribbon s a I Is This type of hat is havo havI hav- hav hasing ing r o I ing a tremendous vogue v in r r rU I 51 In in P Paris ans Lewis r hat h at ti in LI j t t fJ blade black and silver show show- shots shots-ing 1 3 J y v ing a mantl mantilla 11 a veil vel 1 Hal H Hr at r 1 4 i iy 7 c I OO-O- OO ok from Lucie Hamar Hamer of l tf t-tf Y If 4 4 i red straw draw dotted dolled with with if H fJ- fJ t fJ It i 11 I 0 1 S flu 7 01 1 Wight 1 red 4 red hie As JI t t L I and extending c t c in mitten fashion al- al almost almost al almost most to the knuckles The straight finely plaited skirt falls open at one side to reveal the gray underskirt and there is a n glimpse of gray all allaround allaround allaround around the hem For the jeune fillet fille to hom Lanvin pay pa s so much attention there are lovely new dresses made of white Georgette trimmed with Ith intricate hand decoration made from narrow crIsPY folds of organdy Many of these are in m what is known as robe robea a style st le Ie that is there is a little apron motif in the decoration Lanvin seems never to tire of this effect for young girls A tYPical model has in m addition to the little apron effect n brilliant splash of embrOidery a bouquet of field flow flow- flowers flowers ers in m vivid red blue and yellow tones with equally vivid green foli foli- foliage foli- foli foliage foliage age There is a 11 handkerchief pocket and tho the small handkerchief also is embroidered in us flowers of VIvid tones Black and Gray Among The Newest Color Combinations EARLY PEARLY summer fashions always have shown the influence of Lanvin largely owing to the fact that she ghe is so popular on the Riviera operating as she does most success success- successfully successfully successfully fully branches of her Paris dress dress- dressmaking dressmaking dressmaking making business in Nice and Cannes In this way she anticipates to no small mall degree the real Paris fashion which does not cypress express itself until several months later It is the hall hail mark hall mark of chic to wear Lanvin clothes on the Riviera All the fashionable places show v her pretty new dresses and her hr smart looking suits A simple afternoon dancing dress one of her newest vest models is made jn na a 1 vivid blue crepe with like fichu fichu collar of heavy cream lace This is at the left of the group of three on this page Eack and gray dresses are ara among I tIle the color combinations The dress I ess is ornamented with aith ith gray beads and gray embroidery in m a conven conven- tiona Jg of g o gip Aeri i roses The sleeves arc are immensely long accentuating the large largo andery and very ery v ery very narrow shoulder movement the a number of characterizes new Lanvin models Lanvin dress in chiffon plain brule tone a lovely brownish tan trimmed wIth metal lace and hammered metal ornaments This model also shows shoulder and the the very narrow bIg slee sleeves es which in this instance are arc in three tiers of puffs each one of 1 which is bordered with a gold lace whIch shows in addition to the tho lace pattern Intricate embroidery in bronze and antique metal thread Just at the edge of aery a very ery narrow yoke is a hammered metal ornament m in dull gold and similar ornaments appear on the sleeves This is a 8 curioUs looking dress medieval val en- en entirely entirely en entirely in its sentiment though sell ell adapted for modern use of Latest Type High Neck Vest is having some success sues suc- suc cess cess with smart little suits that he is making in which tia IS is introduced a brilliant toned high neck vest neck vest est The smart often likes the high collar which is so difficult for tor Amer Amer- America America America ica to accept However latest success is of the type shown in the sketch at the bottom of this notably developed in black with a 8 brilliant red vest embroidered in van colors Jean always successful with is having an unusually big following just now One of his best dresses is the model sketched which is 19 developed in either cr crepe pe i or heavy cr crepe pe de Chine The dress is simplicity itself for all its complicated detail It just slightly suggests the tho fitted line line liS as the low bodice is in semi sem sem corselet effect A coquettish touch is the breast pocket and the snappy colored handkerchief which is a part of the dress Note also the reversion here to plaits in the skirt t It- It Itc c One of recent a a s suit it with witha a s brillIant red vest cst embroidered in inmany inmany inmany many colors The vest has a high collar Crepe de da Chine Chin froc frock w m odice i in m-c m rile lle effect A distinct feature in Lanvin mil mil mil- millinery millinery is the use of gold metal cloth embroidered in m black She has nu- nu numerous numerous nu numerous models in the Greek and Egyptian casque or helmet form made of these metal cloths with tile the eMbroidery done dono in black to follow Collow the outline of the gore or sec sec sec- section sec lion tion which forms the helmet An An- An Evelyn panel veil cha- cha chapeau chapeau cha peau developed in a color the brown n mesh veil led em em- embroidered embroidered broidered to match malch the hat other type of helmet hat is developed I in what ahat hat is known as barnyard straw stra straI I three colors being used in vertical I stripes dark green grcen a sort of mul mulberry berry red and natural straw color I The glistening straw is flatly ap- ap to the stiff like helmet foun foun- foundation foun- foun foundation foundation dation the crown being slightly con con- conical conical con conical ical and the brim clock cloch form Lan Lan- Lanvin Lanvin vin vm also shoves shows this straw in wIde brim shapes with aith ith the same conical crown sometimes using odd buttress- buttress r J like like sections standing out from either side of the crown crown The chief criticism criticism cism that might be made of these r hats ing hats is that they are extremely trying try- try trying mg ing owing to their stiffness but admittedly ad- ad admittedly ad admittedly chic Hats That Arc Are Popular WIth the COME striking new ideas idess in hats as featured by the worlds world's great great- greatest greatest greatest est milliners are sketched for this page They have just arrived from v i Pans One shows an interesting blending of yellow ellow tones It is made of flatly marguerites in all Atones tones of yellow ellow on a foundation of gold cloth the entire hat then b being baing mg quilted with gold machine stitching Another hat from the same milliner is in brilliant reds This model isone is one one of the big Parisian successes The hat itself is of red straw which IS strewn Ith with bright red cherrIes Lewis the man milliner always ays sho s beautiful hats and this sea sea- season season sea season son is no exception He has a smart i i imodel model of black straw shave trimmed silk Ith witha silka I Ia a huge feather fancy which imItates I Ian an aigrette almost pcr perfectly al- al although although al although though made from burnt peacock Among the picturesque models is the Evelyn Varone panel veil cha- cha chapeau chapeau peau cha-peau peau de developed e usually in a hIgh color The veil has a striking em- em embroidery em embroidery of a color to match the hat haton on a background of brown mesh tr- tr I a 1 t i 1 i 1 U I A Ai 11 a i tl I I M j v 1 V f ff f ff f f I II I I II II Ji I 1 t 1 I r l I t Yi i Sn Sni t J |