Show Infinite n Variety et Marks the Winter Mode of of Paris i I Worth North Callot Vary Creations Cut Work Cut Work Embroider Embroidery Ju and anil Fur Principal Trimming Features Black B Black I Ia a c I and aUtI White Dresses Worn Wilh Black Coats Coals h HE winter sinter season is on in Hi THE T full fOI force foice ce in Pans The buyers have hale e comey come y nd nd go goi c i s a she i toe the story of apparel l or 01 the next few months has been told What women omen will ft ill choose out of the mare marc remains to be seen Jeanne Lanvin is adl adhering to the slender silhouette with very ery little cIrcular mo movement ement introduced into her models She is enlarging the theline theline line Ime Cr ery slight sights slight by short capes on of the backs of some of r her si su Sl t ts is and by certain flaring long coats cots She also uses full side panels on dresses dresse and features a new neckline winch which is high in front and low in back Ith a collar n across across ross the front mill milland and nd ties in the back She lifts many of her models on one side Ide b by placing tucks 0 o cr er the hip find and accentuates this lifted effect by bythe bythe bythe the use of sih silver ether cr ribbon or braid een the tucks extending it to the other othel side of the goon n at a much lower loser point Lammis Lamm IS using dyed marabou on maps Haps placing ions lovis o 0 oo it lII around the lower lowr edge both r r and inside on tha th lining I Deep Circular lar Collars That Resemble Resemble Wheels who ho is responsible forthe forthe for forthe the pi present vogue rogue of the ruffle IS the circular mo ement e cly in her hel collection does it in in novel no nays as She places deep circular ch cular collars collais s on some s some e of her coats and trims them with spokes of fur so 50 that they resemble She cuts the sides of her hip length tailored jackets very sery circularly from the fitted waist alst pOI portion lion ani crinolines t tins distended part Some Some- Sometimes Sometimes Sometimes times she places place a side panel of Sl six six- six inch Inch pieces from flom the neck to the he hem of a black satin gone gOn gO n on the right light side and from the al waist t to the hem on the left Ica the bac back perfectly plan Callol's Callot's present pI collection 11 0 ed cost t interesting to buyers bu el s who placed an unusual number of or- or orders ders 01 ders deIs Thus Callot fashions ma may be expected to play quite a part durin during toe the coming winter hinter Inter season This house famous for its beautiful colors gorgeous gOI materials and mag wag magnificent nt sustains v sell ell Its former reputation The Oriental note dominates the whole hole line Ime as even the skirted wide dresses are aie al e of the Spanish type t pe rather than of tl-e tl t tl e eFrench French It was as as by way of Spain that hat many of hot her skirted hoop and crinoline styles were sere introduced In inthe tre tle FIend court The extremely evening dress for which Callot has been noted has become even esen more decol decol- lete and many of the gorgeously trained evening e dresses are draped hIgh at the front e exposing the legs of the wearer An evening ening dress which hleb has a ba- ba bateau bateau ba outline at the neck is cut out under the arms to 10 below the waist alst waistline line The side sew lew v lew ho shows show s the fi fire figure re absolutely nude under unde- front and back Jael bodice panels reaching to a seemingly modest point An Ingenious Use U Of Work Cut-Work Design Designs A AGAIN AGAIN GAl there are arc dresses slashed and cut out and to give glimpses cs of the thc bod body At the upper left of or to days page is a n Cal Cal- Callot Callot Cal Callot lot model illustrating her ingenious method of work cut designs It IS developed ed from flom taupe velvet and em- em embroidered broidered in old tin cads and beads The girdle skirt banding an neck reck trimming are of solid uy cry lining having the appearance of ribbon At the upper right of the sketch i Callot this thus on oar ons aho sho Jo Q By SARA M MI MARSHALL ARSHALL COOK CO t t fi fil fie OK 1 e l I l 8 So r r y yr t I 0 i c Q Q r 1 r t e j 1 I 4 a s Y r J 1 z zIt ee ees r It r rp 1 t t f k S Q Z t p i iI il I l l le e Q 3 J f br t rv 1 V S Li y a Yr n t A A At t I T 1 F r w 1 i 1 t in y y e 1 t t l r r r I f Y L t Q l sr atif f r pu ati 1 M r ri i tr r i a r r r 17 1 d Fy ra Y V F FP L i P f 1 p V SC r r 1 Ct 4 f r 1101 I Itai tai pcP r v vl 1 1 o I e s 3 l r Jf o l vrn s ayI t tar ar s sl i tI I z V A Above e bo rea reading d f from rom the left left left-Callot evening m d dress ss of taupe ri sf embroidered d drom d dm m in gold Id and coral beads J Model of 1 i l bl blade velvet and silver I lace rimmed md with f pm prole roses Worth d dress consisting d of ofa t a sage green chiffon h blo blouse se embroidered oid ere in r 3 z t silver braid bd and anda d a fire s of pleated pleated ac chiffon C Cere Cerise and d 4 or satin sahn model from rom Cal ot t tac trimmed nd with pink m roses and d At grapes m IT yellow te tones om A And At the If left left-a d dress of brown crepe p 4 and d satin 00 M Models from Henri Henn Bendel i w wel el t s I fi SR Ii h r 1 y Zing ing her clever er drapery It is 15 made of cense cerise an ana ano orange orange satin and trimmed with vuth pink loses and g grapes apes of pale lemon yellow and salmon The black and white note is il prom prom- prominent prominent ment in Calfot's Callot's line of afternoon clothes cothes She uses a II great deal of black and white satin for afternoon e e which v III me ate e worn with th black cents cLah with black fur Thus Thusa a 1 rather stal startling magpie effect is isi I completely covered with witha a demurer demure rall all Ill slack binck CO coi t allot has lisa developed many interesting things in m whIte s satin combined with Ith black moire J Generally speaking her skirts are arc arcIn arcin In short lengths and the chemise Or straIght silhouette dominates to no small degree in all da day all des dressers dresses es The dressy semi semi- semi dressy ressy type of evening costume cos I also is straight of line Ime and short skirted Thus a woman oman who ho wishes I Ito to be conservative can dress chez I chez chez-Callot Callot 01 oi on n the o other hand th thoman the woman oman of most daring and eccentric trie taste will find many things that please her in III this i mar collectIOn collection collection tion col- col collection collection col collection J Jenny enDY has a very interesting lection which features the slender line Ime Her models are quite short as asale asare are ale most of the new seasons season's styles She uses ues blown brown c cyclamen camen black and beige e extensively Jenny has many dres dresses cs that are lust are Just little narrow slips from top to toe and broken only by bf by floating floating fringes fl or slightly enlarged enl by br fur at the bottom bottom On her evening e dresses di esses and some sonic of her aftel afternoon noon frocks she u uses es a back tunic which is a n complete hall circle half This she makes of diaphanous material mate mate- lial rial beaded or embroidered Her sleeves are ore loo loose e to JO the elbow and and- fitting tight fitting II from om that point to the I wrist lean ean Palou has as adopted the err clr collar form very extensively and is making fascinating use of it He in- in introduces introduces in introduces god ts and panels into hIs skirts so ele cleverly erly that they appear straight v when hen the wearer is stand stand- standing standing standing ing and show th their ir width only when m in motion He features the knee flounce OB on a II great many wany model anda and a puts elbow deep circular en cular cuffs on some of his coats The cutaway ef- ef effect ef effect I feet is to be seen on many of his I suit jackets uses fur lavIShly an and embroidery appears on almost evel every mode His Ih coats are frequent frequent- frequently ly embroidered all over has a collection that is ex- ex exciting ex exciting citing considerable comment He Hc his silhouette ette widely showing sho both poth straight straight and find ample models Ills his use of the scarf f colla collar I that so many of the couturiers are adopting thIs sea season on is interesting On Ona Ona a black satin frock he places a very long Iong scarf of bright blue which is folded softly around the neck the ends of which hang to the hem on both sides of the front The They pass under unde a belt of gold ap- ap apI I and andare are edged by deep b bands I of fur i Fur Pur and Embroidery On Long Scarf Collars Collar ON O f A coat he places a lon long Icar scarf collar and embroiders one WIth gold while the other is banded with m mink nl fur Waists fitted and extend extend- extending extending extending ing to the hips are a part of his col- col collection collection col collection lection Philippe et Gaston are placing the center of interest on their new winter models on the sides and in III inthe inthe the bac back They make some of their models perfectly straight line and then suggest the circular movement by a series of embroidered tri tri- triangular tri triangular angular pieces l placed laced around the bottom of the dress They also place a length of the material at the I side tilde front of bonne of their thell nt mod models cis allowing it to fall in grace grace- graceful graceful ful undulations They edge it in embroidery or fur Worth has eliminated ted the the belt altogether on the majority of his models They are cut perfectly straIght to the knees where here they widen into ruffles or circular pieces These long tunics are edged wIth fur On some of his evening models the circular section is cut in one with the dress and a band of fur placed on the bottom These dresses are heavily embroidered in brilliants and pearls Agnes is in favor of the elaborate and intricate in m clothes and she has some gorgeous models that are in- in intricately intricately in intricately draped embroidered and cut very cleverly erly She is using those narro narrow flounces that have become very fashionable She has a way of placing bands of fur above seve sev- several sev several eral of these flounces on coats Molyneux is displaying a waist waist- waistline waistline line Ime on oil many of his models which is quite a after so many ninny waist waist- waist less les less frocks He favors the slender silhouette uses absolutely no drapery a and d trims his models in int t e hest embroidery and fur He Heis Heis Heis is sho showing shoring ing the split skirt banded by inch 20 bands b bands of fur Ho He also places Sashes of moire ribbon with witha a bow and ends on one side on many of his dresses He uses the cutaway coat for most of his suits and bands theft the deeply with fur Bechoff has many capes in hi his collection They rhey are extensively fur trimmed and sometimes cut long on the sides On li h he features k f the straight line Ime with a limited amount of the circular circular He is displaying a number of models covered all over with a design of the material corded- corded He also places fur bands arranged in patterns on some of his coats oJ T v Unique Patterns in inn Diamond in-Diamond Diamond d Studded Models I 1 LACE T ACE with its pattern pattern picked out in m diamonds forms fortis a brilliant trimming for some t of his black velvet dinner dress dresses s His collection collection tion may be characterized by the patterns he shows I in these these unique wu ways s 's Chanel whose col collection collection is one of the really re Ily important ones ones votes for forthe forthe forthe the simIle simple straight lines and skirts th that that t are distinctly are dIstinctly short The Chanel skirt i is a little wider than last season wit some suggestion tion Lion of the circular movement on one aide side but never losing that straight youthful silhouette which has made her house famous f famous Velvets as in all the othor collections are area area area a marked feature and green is the paramount color apple color apple and emerald greens for formal we wear and dark green in coats coats dresses The Chanel n neckline neckline is is new She has many many little barid band e that stand spin tp up in back and are brought around to le be tied lo loosely sely in front ft P Renee favors the straight line sIlhouette modified by by a certain amount of the circular movement Brown and black are the predominating colors color Tine stitched 10 ro flat play a conspicuous part in the tha models of this house Dresses that are not tucked or pleated are trim trim- trimmed trimmed med with circular flounces Bounces Silk braid is frequently employed AS trimming and bright flowers are d don on many of the black velvet dresses has banished the bateau neckline almost altogether replacing replacing ing tag it with the narrow band collar that ties in front the Peter Pan collar and the throw scarf collar There are arc many sports SUIts suite in m the showing with an n extra long coat or circular cape They are usually of checked or plaid tenal ma-tenal terral Red Pied piece one-piece dresses are arG frequent worn with short black velvet coats heavily trimmed WIth fur The Russian Russ blouse dress is a afa fa favorite here with fullness concen concen- concentrated concentrated concentrated on the side and fur trimming Coat Coal dresses are popular and will willbe willbe willbe be worn by the fashionable Paris Paris- Paris ienne They are made of velours de delaine delaine lame laine velours de or some other surfaced soft material and are abundantly trimmed with fur so that they have the necessary comfortable appearance fr f r winter New Fur Collars That Are Detachable THEY T HEY are ara most attractive as they present slender lithe silhouettes widened about the hem by a deep band of soft fur usually fox astral astral- astrakhan astrakhan han or martin and with deep collars and cuffs of the same fur They are arG very cleverly arranged so that the collars may be either removed or so adJusted that they do not make the dress unbearably hot indoors These dresses can be worn without coats until the cold winter weather comes and they are much smarter and more trim looking than a coat Waists are distinguished by theIr sleeves and the sleeves show definite evidence of an intention to change Jenny is introducing a new sleeve which resembles resembles the bishop ishop sleeve although it has a cuff to the elbow and is fitted pi plain am into the armhole Lanvin uses some sleeves that are frankly gathered on to a drooped shoulder sho shoulder lder although the long tIght sleeve is her favorite In fact the long tight sleeve with graceful drooping cuffs may be called the dominating sleeve of the season and It adds considerably to the attractiveness attractiveness of the silhouette which flues flares froM the hips or the knees Shaded Evening Dresses Elaborately Beaded DOUCET is showing many models as well as circular cut tunics lie He is featuring shaded evening gowns ns elaborately beaded He uses the effect by placing ruffles on the front and back of a skirt and concentrating their fullness at the sides aides of the waist The Chinese influence is very ery important in the Doucet collection is is is adhering to simplicity as asin asin in past past seasons and uses narrow bands of furon most of her i coats winch which are cut with a modified circular circular lar movement t She has some very charming colorings in many of her dresses discreetly placed by means of bits of embroidery Martial et Arnand Armand have hate made use of circular ruffles taffies and employ them sery ery ly on their 1880 models which ar are lifted slightly in back and have ruffled lower edges Colors at this house are black dark blue and brown wilh with much bright embroider embroidery A new sort of needle needle- needlework needlework needlework work which wf ch resembles fur is ia |