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Show I TOATEST FAR 1 5 FASHIONS IN SILK I 'AND SATIN .AFTERNOON GOWNS ' ' '". iOlUAlNT and Picturesque Designs Fichus, . " T, 'Puffings and Velvet Bands 'L-T H Blue Silk Gown with ' H Embroidered Fichu Hj T'fcoto CopynptiL 1011. by IWutlinrrr Hj Exelunir Cpn?bt. HUH H Nov Yort Herald Cooipaaj M BY MRS. A. T. ASHMORE. . M B HIS first cool days of autumn H i invariably briny out a. number j J of fresh gowns thatnrc quite H B unlike any others and cxtrcmiilv 1 smart and attractive. In 'Aiucr.- H i'ca this style of gown is not "so' prnc- H, tical as 'in other climates, for, it can H be worn only an the street Tor a' 'short H ! time in the spring and autumn, before H ' tno weather bccoiues either, too vfarm H or too cool, according to the- season'. In H tlie autumn 1herc must be a wrap- or H coat or at least n scurf worn'' over it, H and this all too often detracts from- the H effect,. for the gown -innst be perfect in H itself and quite distinct from a model 'de- H signed to'bc worn under a coat. H Popularity of Satin. H Satin, strange to say, retains its wou- H dcrful popularity, and there is no end q? H different styles for the one piece satin H gown. The. heavier quality is the bc3t H for tliu present moment, as the light H weight is too thin and too cool. . A sirn- Hl pie satin gown so it is lightly described H is now essential to any outfit, but 'the H simple part must bo in the line and Hl gcucrul effect, not the dotnil, for there H never were more elaborate or smarter H satin gowns to be seen thnn - urc - worn H this autumn. One of the favoritc'uiodels H is unusually attractive. It bail the. ef- H feet of a belted coat, for tho'short high Hl waist and the loug ovcrsklrt aTc 'joine1 Hl under a wide belt or else the overskirt is Hl attached to the waist under a narrow Hl cording.. Both waist and ovcrskirt button H or fasten across anil arc lcavily ctubroid- H cred in black silk, as is also the one long H pointed re vers. The waist is like a .uIoimksi fl in its lines, and the skirt is narrow but Ht slashed at one side,' and there is nn in- H inverted pleat or plcntings of chiffon B under the slashing. H So much, is now eaJd in regard to the 1 fashion of tho skirt nlaimcd in. front or at H the side, so thaf the feet and ankles are H displayed, that it is well to rcui':nt)er H that when eccentric styles of any kind H moke their appearance they are not gcn-l ' crally adopted, but urc so modified before H women of conservative taste accept thoin H that it is best not to follow the first models H too cktely. The opening of the skirt H j around the Item in order, to give more H width to tlie skirt and frei-dom in walking H hus much to recommend it, but that there H '.vill be tlio inverted pleats of llie.snmc material as the gowu or plcatings of'chlf- 7':.' yMWii&l iS-; &'' -'v4a:wSv i:i.-..i..- r..,.yfisi,t. inn; Nw York ikt.ij Co. v Ss ";iibl3EH' ' " oloCoprlcbL 1911. by nfutllnr' I "' '" --g&fcJfepWg- A ..' EiduWvo Copyrlcbt. 1011,' Fron. of Plum Taflcta Gown rT J J Ncw'ork' Uirald Company ' l' h . -r fon or satin may be ns-sured. One of the jsmnrtest gowns of the late summer was on I this order, It was made of silk serge, I which, by the way, in one of the fashion- jablo -materials now. The skirt was opened for a quarter if a yard or more at one Hide, and,from a distance the effect was that of having nothing buck of tiic open scam but a pleating of ciiiffon, behind wjiich a flounce of taffeta was Just visible. JLn this wise was the fashion executed with the ueeded modification. The fusbiuu thus worked out was deliglitfullj- smart and effective and is now generally popular. pop-ular. ) Uiaek fcatin still retains, the lead in popular favor, but all other' triors are nko In style, and tin-re are many chnriniuc white atin gouns that in the country will be worn for some time. All the light colors will soon look toolight arid' inappropriate, but the dark colors and hlficlf will be possible pos-sible for'tievGrul weeks, Sn'dater onu be worn under a Ipng fur coat auil in tile Lhouse. The blouse waist effect i6 still the smartest. The kimono ileeve is still to lc 6een, but thei"e dr.- indications that its popularity is ou the wan.-, for tin- sleeve 'fitted with the arm hole is more becoming. .Shoulder seams are shorter, in jjtite of the craze fur fichu, ejects. Prohnlily because of the craze the Gehu iiU much belter when the sliujiliier seanw uf the waist are shorter. Slpevefi are of medium size and come below" the elbow, and the smallest small-est of lluzcric3- uuiluralcetva arc a detail 'v , ; that is most promincat-in the satin t'owns of tp-day. The introduction , of color into the all blaci: satin gowh is -another detail to be ndtiped this autumn..- Just a small bit of co-lard silk enibroiilery on the waist jstajs to bestow the needed toueli of in-divjtjualjty1. in-divjtjualjty1. and there is often a blending of color that is most effective. Where the wnl.): erc$Si oyer tlnjre-ls a pointed long rcvprs or a band of blue and gold or two sbaYJcs of blue and si' small piece of the same embroidery is .seen on the turned batik' cuff.; m I'ink and deep crimson are alsp combined to give, the desired note of contrast, or gTton nnd"6ilvcr. but the combination com-bination of colors is, endless, and what ever' is oltyct.iye, pr becoming is chosen, bits.'of Oriental embroidery finding great favor. Spsh Worn at Side. Another detail of the .simple ?atin gown in lie sash., w.iich Is, genorjilly becoming. Once around the waist, fastened high and tied! In one' loop, the sash is worn at the side and the puds nre finished with fringe. If. (v woman fs large the sash ends' can oc worn at the back, but more f ASIIW UhspI' Voile Cout. ; I ;..' -: .- : 'r -- - toward theide llinnilirectly in the back; for thai."jji.veKt nb'e'yJirline. An itt tempt-' was iiiadeto-iritro'ducc colored gashes of .' I . Sri : : J i JJ Plum Colored Taffeta Trimmed with Black Velvet -Photo Copyrlshc, 1011, by Rcntllnccr , ; Kscliisico CoDvrteht, 10U, New York Herald Co. ; . I this description with the black satin and silk gowns, but the style was voted too 'glaring and not suitable for Ibis model, and the black sash thai is always becoming becom-ing was given the preference. Color on Black Gowns. Another way in- which color is introduced intro-duced in the black gowns is in the cni-hroidery cni-hroidery and embroidered braid uncd inj trimming. Extremely novel nre tho1 wide; open patterns black silk braids, through, which colored silks are run. expensive because be-cause of the band work, but there arc effective machine br.iids and pnsemen-leries pnsemen-leries that are iu grwir demand. But cpro must be taken not to use too uiuch of nny but the best trimming on a satin .gown, for at onec there is introduced an element lof inapproprinteness that kills all smartness. smart-ness. V Valenciennes lace in yokes, chemisettes, I collars and cuffs is fashionable with the 'silk or satin gown, while it would seem ,ns though every treasure box of heir- III ' :' fell ' ' '-.' K(h3 Tnrfcla Jrkct. looms must have been ransacked to furnish fur-nish the exquisite bits of finest embroidery embroid-ery '.that is used In thp collar, and cuffs. Much of this exquisite work. if. it is antique, has to "no transferred to a new background in order to use ll, but this can be done, and on the sheerest of modern mod-ern batiste and other cobweb like materials ma-terials the finest of old baud work now is shown to the greatest advantage. These .same fine embroidered collars, cuffs and undersleevcs, edged with line Valenciennes, Valenci-ennes, ore so dainty and becomingtbat the" plainest gown is transformed,' byi thqm.. ,, Silk is extremely fushionablc tliis, autumn au-tumn and silk gowns will be wornT this winter for'mnny different occasions. (4CheJ 'si tuple" bin ck silk gownos not .a genernliy-becoming genernliy-becoming as the satin, aud sijks with the V 'satin finish are chosen when satin Itself , is HQt used, but for home aud evening jf i gowns the silks are considered extremely V smart, and the colors and designs are so - W i: i j W ! ' ' I : . TnOtn Jnckot In Cbanccablo Red aDd GtcD. j . if : -, exquisite In coloring and texture that a ',' 't woinan has to be endowed with more self- ;; j control than is generally vouchsafed to '. , womankind to resist their clmrrn. and m notto order just enough of this and just enough of that to make two or three rjt simple little evening gowns. 'The change- j':P ablcn-effects uud the new quaint colors, mW; which are only old friends under new tp uamos. are fascinatiug, ashes of roses, '" qveer green's, blues, yellows and purples : '' the variety is endless. A pench color silk, with lace fichu, made up iu some ' g jictjnes'iiuc old iwrtr.iit style, is dainti- r ness itself for a young girl, while the I j bhnj Imd pink silk gowns with the ruch- l Hi ings of fine lace and point d'esprit make ; if; a girl look as though she had stepped out '; ( of some old picture. Silk for ball gowu.-t j $: is a7'ouuger material than satin, and the dt'bujante of this winter will number ;jjj many, taffeta silks among her dancing i,? JTrocs. j ' Lining for Train. j" Satin is a more generally becoming f matejial, however, and the oldep girl, or 1$ she vho has more statuesque ai,d grace- t ft Oil lines, will do httter to cSoose the J. lattef nialerinl. in vrliich this season she Si has A greater variety of choice in coloi I'M .and texture lliali der. A point worthy , A lof note is in regard to, the lining of the J jj 'ntim train. Albiitross and light weight J jj (cloth, once chosen in preference to any- 3' (ft thing' else, have for the moment been H iirncarded in favor of India silk, eepe- 'y cially for the train of tiic welding gown, (, JH for Juninkcs-the satin even more supple jttj than ever and at the same lime gives a jj certain primness and stability. H I |