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Show t HANDICRAFT FOR BOYS AND GIRLS A. NEELY HALL and DOROTHY PERKINS .; (Cupyrlt-lit. by A. Neely Hall.) A TOY SAILBOAT. In Fig. 1 I have shown a sailboat with a broad hull of a satisfactory design de-sign that ia easy to prepare. A solid Mock of wood of the dimensions shown In Fig. 2 is required for the hull. First mark out the curve of the deck, as Indicated by dotted lines (Fig 2), upon both top and bottom faces, then cut to these lines (Fig. 3). Next, mark off the shape of the botlom of the hull upon the bottom face of the block, as Indicated by dotted lines in Fig. 3; also draw a line around the sides and bow and stern, one inch below be-low the top (see dotted line); and pare down the sides from the dotted line to the line of the hull bottom, to make them of the form shown in Fig. 4. Be careful In marking out the hull, to get the sides exactly the same; and use an equal amount of care In cutting. With the outside cutting, cut-ting, scoop out one-half the length of the hull, for a cockpit (Fig. 5). The gunwale strips A and B (Figs. 5 and 6) are lapped over and tacked to the upper edges of the hull. Cut them out of thin wood. Curve the top edge of strips A, as shown in Fig. 6. Cross strips C and D, and the corner blocks E and F (Fig. 5), are provided to brace the gunwales. Finish the bow of the hull with Btrip G (Fig. 7), and the stern with strip H. The double-pointed tack In G Is provided for the attachment of p- i f-ii'f io- XaA i-" : k the foresail. Make the rudder as shown ft I (Fig. 8). with a tiller stick (J, Fig S) tacked to its top. Drive a couple of brads into the long edge of the rudder, and bend them over for hooks to fit in a pair of small screw-eyes screw-eyes driven into stern strip H (Fig. 7). Figs. 9 to 12 show the mast, gaff, boom and bowsprit. Bind a loop of wire to one end of both the boom and the gaff, to slip loosely over the mast, as shown. Drive a double-pointed tack into the bowsprit near one end. and slip the other end through a hole In one of the gunwales. Set the mast in a hole bored in the hull, and brace it on etch side with stays tied to it f Jf - Wf('V 70 I -BEAD ef3TILlES ulb 1 f-iSM mast x " RUDDER Q : BOOM (WIQ-) BOWSPRIT ("a"x 102') (g)Y ,E j auu to Uuubie-pcjinted tacks dnveu in to tue gunwale edges. Have mother make you a mainsail a foresail, and a jlbsail, of the pro portions shown in Fig. 1. with eacl edge hemmed Four fancy-work ring: should be sewed to the mainsail foi mast hoops, and the top and bottort should be lashed to the boom and gaf -with thread. Figs. 9 and 10 show the halyard! tor raising and lowering the rails. Usi beads for blocks (Fig. 13). Then should be six of these blocks (see K Kigs. 9 and 10). The wire bars L M and N (Fig. 6) are provided fo Cylni the hfiyard ends to. A GIRLS' HANDICRAFT BOOTH FOR A FAIR. Here Is a plan for a handicraft booth which a class of girls can make one of the most attractive and best-patronized features of the church fair. Your own handicraft can be placed on sale, and you can build the booth Itself, by following the plan I have worked out In Fig. 1. Fig. 2 shows how the booth Is constructed. con-structed. You will need a grocery box about thirty Inches long, fourteen inches wide and ten inches deep for the corner supports. These boxes must be mounted on legs (A, Figs. 4 and 5), made of pieces two Inches thick, four Inches wide and twenty-six Inches long. The supports for the I canopy are nailed to these boxes (B, Fig. 5). The distance apart to place the box supports will be determined, of course, by the size that you want to make the booth. Seven feet square, outside measurement, is a good size. The counter coun-ter boards should be twelve inches wide, and long enough to make a continuous counter extending from corner to corner. This is not shown in Fig. 2, but it is indicated in the plan diagram of Fig. 3. The canopy framework is made of four poles (C, Fig. 2). The lower ends of these are secured to the tops of uprights 3, and the upper ends are suspended from a screw eye screwed into the ceiling directly over the tops of the booth. These poles must project six inches or so over the tops of uprights B. and be long -dOAR!D- 3 I m m OAR enough to run up to a peak at the center. cen-ter. By screwing a screw eye into the tops of uprights B, and one into the under side of poles C (Figs. 5 and 6), the poles can be joined by tying together to-gether the screw eyes with cord. Screw a screw eye into the upper end of poles C to tie the cord to for suspending sus-pending the poles from the ceiling. Crepe tissue paper in different colors col-ors is the best covering material for the booth framework. Figure 1 suggests sug-gests how strips of the paper may be wound around the corner uprights and canopy poles, how a latticework frieze of twisted ropes of crepe paper pa-per may be extended around the sides at the top, and how ribbons of crepe paper may be used to inclose the canopy framework. Pretty homemade, home-made, cardboard lanterns hung from -fr"1 cy F' 3 ' " r the ends of the canopy poles will add ) a finishing touch to the roof. f Tack heavy wrapping paper to the counter boards, and then cover this 3 with cheesecloth of a color to har 3 monlze with the tissue-paper trim a mings A pretty effect will be ob .. talned by plaiting this as Indicated Ir Fig. 1 One side of the valance musl r be made to part, to provide an en trance into the booth |