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Show I 1 ' Of Jtftmsh MEp Readers j l PARIS FASHION'S - OF MIDSUMMER. I . . t . Many New Designs Can Be Observed j at This Season of Remarkable j Novelties in Dress Linens Are Long' and Sweeping Soft and I Lustrous Materials Are Making '': Their Appearance For Wear in Early September The Small Articles Ar-ticles of Dress. 1 Paris. July 25. Loitering along the Hue Ilivoli any pleasant day one sees the most exquisite costumes. Yet it is a fact that the mind wanders away from the styles, away from rufiles and tucks and insertion, into a contempla tion of the enchanting materials from which these costumes are made, That which at first sight appeared j ' ' to consist of row after row of silk and i lace, carefully joined and alternated with bands of satin, proves to be, upon I ' closer inspection, a fabric, woven in t one piece, and bought by the yard for the fashioning of handsome gowns. I Sometimes the appearance will deceive i yon, and it is only upon actually pa-ss- I ing the tinkers over the fabric that f ;' you can detect the difference between f j. applique and woven goods, between i J insertion and cunningly cut and stamp- f ed groods. - Jt is as if the manufacturers of all J nations had suddenly awakened to the possibilities of machinery, and were j . devotinsr their entire time and labor to the reproduction of elegant fabrics, i Use less now the modiste's art, idle the ' embroidery needle, for the foods can i be purchased by the yard for less cost ? than a single hand-width could be j worked, and the whole is immeasure- ; abiy more elegant and chic. The painted muslins, the embroidered i chiffons and the metal appliques are the substitutes in goods that are shown ; by the yard. kjiik jiir-iaii.f vl una w m enow iue ! extent to which the art of manufac-f manufac-f j ture has been brought. Into the very I; ctnter of a piece of pearl gray cash-It' cash-It' mere was woven a lace figure. The ; figure whs repeated at intervals of a f few inches, making an exceedingly rich goods. By this art the necessity for applique with the cut-out work underneath under-neath was entirely obviated, and thoi t result was even better. CHEAP SUBSTITUTES. But these goods are unfortunately exjKErive. Instead of being for the wanting many they are for the fortunate fortun-ate few. From $2 to $5 per yard they run, and no one can accuse a $5 fabric, 4 nor a $2 one for that matter, of being j? cheap, when applied to thefmaking of ; ; a summer gown, with its perishable- ness and its short life. As the season I r.dvances, the gown fades in color; its : material becomes inappropriate, its weight inadequate and with the first knell of September it is dead dead as : ; the leaves upon the trees. , ; With a winter gown.it is .different, and a dress well selected as to color i and material can be carried through several seasons without becoming an ;v antique. It is on account of the short life of the new summer fabrics and their ex- 5 pense that the modistes have devised I clever little ways of imitating the more costly materials. The silk muslins, fof ' example, "which come inlaid with 1 bunches and sprays of flowers, are nicely simulated at home by sewing j silk sprays over a plain silky surface, ' ; whether it be real silk muslin or its cheaper Imitations. To avoid muh i needlework these sprays need not be placed close together, but can be 'set some inched apart, not more than two if bting needed for the back of a bodice .'J and only four for the shirred front. The skirt can have a spray appliqued here and there at irregular intervals. The most elegant piques come with large polka dots embroidered in silk. ! The dots are of different sizes and of j; various colors, all shades being seen f; upon one dress. Pique of this descrip- tion is expensive, but, if the dots are f' embroidered by hand, the work is not d nearly so dear nor is it as difficult. I'l Even satin applique, that most expen- sive of all fabrics, can be imitated. The real satin applique consists of a ' satin: design" brought out upon a white background. Stripes and flowers are used. . But an imitation satin antique can be made by appliquing satin strjpes upon a plain taffeta background, and by appliquing: satin flowers which have been cut out of old bits of material to tho white ground. It is a lot of work,, grant you, but the gowns of today are by no means plain ones, and, to be in the fashion, you must go to all the fuss of Dame Fashion's fancies. NEW GOWNS. Yet the great makers of the fashions will tell you that the gowns of today, with all their elegance, do not approach those of other days in point of actual handiwork. "Take the embroidered dresses of ten years ago, and they were more work," they will tell you; "or select se-lect those of the days when the tiniest cut beads were attached to the gown at intervals too small to admit th touching of the tip of the .fingers to the goods, or yet the days when ruffles were the rage and when a flounced skirt was a thing which required the work of weeks." j A fabric that will wear into fall is I the taffeta striped gingham. It is a cotton gingham with a silk finish, and then there is the silk striped Madras to be made up over a show lining. Mrs. Ferdinand Peck wears the most beautiful dress creations, in perfect taste every one, but so modish, so actually ac-tually ahead of the style, that one wonders won-ders a here she couid have found a modeste ready to turn out so many and such artistic ones. One of her gowns was of a decidedly novel texture and might have been one. of t he new .satin striped J'oplins" which come now in all th? shades.- The dress is light' weight and very summery, though by no means a wash fabric. ' '". Another very new gown was one, worn by an-"American woman. It- was of Javenaise crepo, - that new material which is woven in horizontal tucks, the idea being to do away with all tucking by hand. Of course, the tucks were absolutely accurate and were exceedingly ex-ceedingly chic, made so as to run horizontally hori-zontally across the vest and on the perpendicular in coat and skirt. The first-gowns of fall may show a j return to the very long lines that once j prevailed. One of the very latest models, mod-els, exhibited by a Paris designer to several private patrons, was fashioned of Lansdowne cloth, very soft and delicate deli-cate in texture, and absolutely lustrous. This fabric is one of the season's novelties nov-elties and will be much in vogue this autumn. The plan of the gown was decidedly novel. It was a Princess, without break from neck to hem. The sleeves, which were plain, were slightly wrinkled to the wrists, but the sleeve caps and the yoke were exquisitely traced with silver sil-ver braiding. The gown, it may be stated, was a pearl blue, upon which this silver embroidery set well. The novel feature lay in the tucking, which began at the bust and extended in long straight tucks, very narrow and very tightly stitched, so as to look almost al-most like cords, right down to a point below the-knees. ; P.elow this the gown flared and .layupon . the ground,' very long in front and. back. - .; . Upon the bust-were two verylargo roses of shell pink panne velvet, so attached at-tached as to stand out in beautiful relief. re-lief. . Such a gown as this, while too light for the street wear of the practical woman, might be imitated, say in Roman Ro-man i blue cloth, with black velvet braldirur. with roses of deep red velvet. Hats this fall will be worn well off the face "and with" strings. The day of the string is at hand. If wide, the strings are made of tulle or chiffon and are attached to the back of the hat and brought forward under the chin, and sometimes wound around several times. If they are made of narrow nar-row bands of velvet, these velvet streamers are caught upon the front of the gown in a picturesque bow. ITils charming gown Is of imperial blue foulard printed with graduated dots. The skirt is slashed to show a deep flounce of pale .blue taffeta, while the bodice is cut with a V-shaped aperture to reveal a vest of blu taffeta embroidered with wftlte silk. There .are black velvet strappings strap-pings upon the waist whidh terminate In tiny rosettes upon the shoul-r shoul-r dere. A large black velvet hat, made of chenille and straw and trimmfed Kith Dlumes is worn with this costume, j |