| Show 1 f t 4 4 t I r. r II J f. f I I 1 F T c Ile 11 JO I W W Wr 1 I Ji Ji r y iiii w nl 10 11 ii i. 1 1 Jid d a l 9 lj I i A ii 19 1 r II lf IB 1 1 IB l d 1 I i 1 if 9 r II 5 fj e f aGI I t o I t IJ g III I Ii i m III IIII H I l III V Ul nUI Ile v I I II I I M W I i f ji Y I Dr Dressmakers ers Disa Disagree ree J for py Fiure roar pour Styles tyl s 8 from Jr U I ie ier to Dire toire Draped u Julie Tulle HEX n doctors alas for tor th W. W patient Whim dressmakers die I agree t harrah for tor tho customer The say wo w-o alt all of na cs who have haTe any aDY degree de d. degree arc gree of ot cleverness lJ for tor when whoa tb thE tree dress dressmakers N makers maker disagree ee there is b hope bOp for tor any EI reo And Aed both bl big authorities and little au an authorities disagree rM this season leuon h hAil ba i declared himself In opposition opp to the the clo cos I ly fitting model A and upholds the th uJ empire IItTI Even Eren Elizabeth White and no one can u. u call aU her a little authority In either meaning mean mean- meaning ing of ot the word woM SI says soya that ment She glees rrt ns tI permission W wo po poor worms of the Four Hundred whom sh she h Imagines t are fairly writhing w In la our sheath huth frowns to tak take advantage of ot the disagree re dl agree agree- and aDd wear ar what we Now Xo she Is s on the tb lecture platform r the he glad llad tidings In many cities She gives rive ad rice fee authoritatively UniT and end buoyantly to all The timid little dr dressmakers born bora with plus pins In mouths mouth Instead nd of a 8 11 spoon n The be poor la lady who weighs BO eo much that thai her lier IJ beart r Is beary Leary too Is now DOW feeling more cheerful In an c gown te Kibe K to toI ibe eue I e no one may know the true of her waist but somehow eTu every ertry one oat dON does know w whoa when a II woman om n eara ars an empl model just how ho mach much abt there I Is b below low Mrs firs Willie R K Sr always bends nd over Oyer iu u a manner most mOlt graceful L 0 when sh she enters her box boi at t the opera t p r Zorn ronn may af bit be D o ot of a rather rat loos empire yle but somehow the entrancing lines line bow below are seen sen even eren b by people pe without th the eye TC the has bas on nn on tray ray keenness Het every time lovely Mrs Willie finds dads an n ex t case for that stoop adorable cr crot t though on b she is le ChoU Cholly eternally k keeps tep ps bob ope opera lP 1 asses t on young roun Mr a I J r L J c c- c II R I 1 1 b 3 I If f o oI C t I I vJ u t J JYL 0 0 q qI r I r n rt t J o I J i rl o A 1 r b 0 16 0 f L. L G i 1 rf I I J j h I i. J. J Cornelius Van Vanderbilt Jr who who wears e such s f v a a diamond ornament In cl L vt ot br her bea bead It H Is a II baud band th the ends o of ot otc l c which lie Just above abort her bet ears end and In back tin min o bee ber Way wavy hair hang hanc shaped wistaria-shaped shapel 1 i diamond ornaments graduating In length When Wen Vb n Ih she turns her shoulder boulder r. r blades to tI the nce they can call see aU all these ornu- ornu rn t I L i I I f e t l r r o t x r r rO O rj s P r rt sr t Tr C x t i I r 1 e t 1 D meats ro nta I J thin ebe be I Is so ahr shrewd wd for tor tort between be be- t tween l en the tho nets etiquette dictates 5 that one must turn ones one's back to tho the opera 1111 glass battalion Just battalion Just wb n the they and n the re roo reporter porters porter are arc counting the that top each spike Dike of ot ones one's tiara You know I have bavo a n crown exactly like that of ot Mrs John R R. R Drexel Druel the p pearls can be screwed d and sky blue Persian turquoise Inserted I Just went to bed and cried and nd cried n I and stayed thero two week the be way my aunt did CUd when she abo wanted a ne we are arc all 11 so delightfully delight delightfully bt fully feminine In our family wn until Cholly taught fought me a tiara Our house bou was Tao at sixes and sevens eaten and Ind he be had bad some somo dinners to glee give for tor brokers from London London- those Jolly chap chappies who elve give the American Amen Ameri can 41 women such good goW tips about the marVet maret mar mar- Vet tet et Instead of ot useless ss compliments compliment Hut Dut bow v I run out So back to gowns I 1 must mast tell you OU that besides the empire too ico the Illustration C and ond read description you may wear a pure le model the empire nud and c model combined orthe or orthe orthe the startling which la Is modified or 01 mC dest or 01 Immodest t according according ac DC cording to your lour morale morald and your figure You ba hate hare e four COUl styles from which to choose Why shy you know 0 my friend Miss Betsy with whom Cholly and aDd I r recently recent recent- nt- nt I ly went shopping Bless Uless your hearts beerts I Allou All 11 you ou IU girlie who delight In a short bort dancing frock fluffy fleets at t the hem on and that Is hi closely fitting and aDd Imagine It t will be out of ot style Vb Det Betsy r just JUAt Ju t the other day bought the most bewitching gown gOWD for tor evening that t I ever evec In saw It Is embroidered In n opalescent opal with silver Hashing flashing here bore an and there and from one oue of ot three those little boleros bolero bangs hanga a a- along long fringe of or of pure crystals It lu is something like a n gown that Mrs hits Alfred tred Wa wore whan M ew i Blanche Shoemaker t she be be w went nt to too her ber first biz dance lt It W was IJ con red covered red with dull doll Ivory Ivory- vory like spangles ebe looked like like- a snow enow Queen that night And AnI take teke the rate caso of ot blithesome little j I I e yet I lh L r 1 1 r 1 a r o c cv i v t r a I 7 L 51 1 1 t 7 1 4 h 4 t s sr r t 1 1 I Y 1 1 t rr 1 1 i f r II 7 l lN N A A r Evening Euing Gown with White Chiffon on Und Having Sil Silver et Span l land es and end a Plastron Heavily Embroidered with Old Old Blue Blut and end Green Bri Brightened with wilh Si Sil ver nr Over the Chiffon Chi There Are Draperies of Black Mour i lour line elme de Sole Soie or Tulle Tull e B A B-A A Girlish Evening Frock with Skirt Having HaTing Three Lace Flounces Flounce and end Garlanded Gerland d wi wit will Ih Artificial Pink Ro Roses Similar Flowers Rowen Forming the Corsage Cor age Bouquet C C-An C An Evening Enning Gown Empire in Style of Rose Rote Colored Colored Sahn Satin Trimmed with wilh L Laurel Lacy el Leaves and Grecian Key in Gold a Long Gold Chain Circling Wrest and Falli Falling ng at Left Side Ro Colored Rose Colored MO ne de dc SOK Soie DupeS Drapes the Left Shoulder and Form th the Left Sleeve Sleets SleeveD D D-A D A D r Costume with wilh Skirt of White hite linc de Soie Sole Heavily ily Embr Embroidered w with lh Wide Wide Vide T Tulle Draperies Draper ea of Color Plant Egg end and Left Sleeve Sleen of Embroidered ere d Tulle from Which Hangs Ta Taut d of Rich Red E or Plant EggPlant g Plant Color Camels Came Are Arc Set t Setin S N in in Embroideries Embr and end in Orna Ornaments Ornament nh to 10 Which Tassels Are Attached E E-A E A Satin Sati n Gown Pale Pink in Color and end Prince Empire in Model Girdle Cameo e Hangs Hanji from High Hiah Waist and the Cameo C Sho Shoulder lder Straps Are Set with wilh Diamonds Ia Pauline the actress V Y Very ry rJ few cf ct her gowns will b be It Iu style OD One will be be- of ot mignonette green reen satin with witha a a. tunic or that has bas a n long silk sill fringe Another nother of ot London smoke moke tulle M Ii i only slightly e in to lines PaulInos Paul Paul- Paullee's inos ino's sweet face bce will rise nl above oo yo the London rondon Kinoko like 1110 a red rose that lifts its Ita head bead above an nD English Ln fog to Cholly think PaulIDe Paulino Paul Paul- ino loo Is lovely too but Im I'm not a s hit bit Jealous r only only of or that flirty Polly de lIo Peyster who bo Is coming home borne from Ireland next week She has bos been wearing abroad abroad so fo I 1 heard from froma a t friend a friend a gorgeous Greek gown n of ot flame color touched with gold Really Heally If It Cholly IB is ns as devoted to her as be he was mine this Spring recourse to divorce will he be the only fled fied etl procedure on my part The models are often otten mis mill taken for tor the tho models which ore however er draped far tar more closely ground j the tho ankles The empire se models like hike of the many gowns gown ore are made of oC a soft thick lustrous satin called drop Just su such h a sown gown Is theone the lIc theono ono one In Illustration E. E C You loa may read the details the th the It Wits was Abroad for tor Miss Alexandra Carlisle who wh played lu Iu The Th Mollusc MI Miss s also wears a n yellow satin gown own of ot this sort ort They Thor are severely plain with the lu lug fug only on the shoulders boulder or above abon the waist Mice Mica Carlisle Carlisles costume was flU copied by a n society but she ulie wean with Ith tt it a girdle of ot cameos clasping the bod body bolow the bust and falling Iu In long ends to knees kneel With this she bo wears cameo bracelets The cameos os were Wor worn worn In to France during ur the thu vented that followed the wild 4 days day of or If the Revolution arid aria also 40 later Inter du lur Ins ink the Consulate and th the Empire d after utter l Napoleon p leon who was of ot of the Consulate e Jl bad d arisen Iu lu all his glory and power i The cameos that will be he used to cans p the b bewildering Ud tule tuie gowns of or the Direr period this this season with will give h employ rot mint to cutters cameo who have not pra rac e their art 1 rt for tor tull es fully 1 twenty tT years year rs s. s None on of ot the younger men among the tho v je Jewel Jewel- 1 l. l ere era understand l the work so iO the graybeard are rc busy For many years there was lit IlL tie the or no work wort wor for tor cameo cutters The gowns will of ot course b bit be tb the sensation of the thc S season Tulle Tullo and Chiffon will swathe s the tho figure and thero will wll be few flying ends Mrs Irs Vanderbilt has bos u stunning eve even even- ing tog gown Io of ot black net laid over 14 satin of ot robins robin's egg blue and Mrs rs Arthur Scott cott Burden Durden has a n Grecian of at sown gown black 8 satin with flame colored draperies flying from the shoulders It will be droll however if It Home some of ot the tho girls in Ir the Four Foer Hundred d decide to adopt the styles s. So Soman man many of ot tall American our H Bs s are arc six t feet tt t high and two t feet flat fat very flat very err linton lint flat flaton on the floor Door Just picture one ono of ot their feet emerging from a tulle gown for tor they ore arc short on OD ono one side the thc frocks I h mean and aud have a long aide trail or train of at tulle as It were were were-or or or as It will III be 4 rather there We arc arl all ull terribly excited over OTer our evening gowns for tor op opera bogins hogins bo- bo gins on November 9 I and wu we shall rush rusl into town to give gho h 0 him upp support rt s AlleM Mrs Un Nicholas was buying buy buy- tog hit evening gowns gown at an nn establishment esteb on avenue 1 a ItS as early early early-as as u mid mid- C 4 iChi f Used ed ii if Iq Ways U Doses ii if iq Used to C rc ross 55 Tits if iq p 5 Skirts aid Tue Tucked Judged ed lito t Shoulder lder Butterflies of J TuII Q ess Still I ip iq if Fas Fasio iol U ild rape gape U ori ir if ip tl tle e Nair r. r J A August We WI are ara all crazy crary about abort tho the now tullo gowns and are nil alt having the most mOlt extreme models made matlo on OD the sly Those who are arc r brave bra as well ell as 01 beauteous will essay cusay them first Certainly the tho Empress Josephine who bo Is Mrs Irs H H. A. A C. C Taylor will 1111 adhere to tho Empire style In Paris both the tho Americans and the Parisians bavo vo already worn the gowns of ot tulle At an nn evening garden party porty for tor example In n floated n a fascinating creature in a 1 costume of ot silver moonlight satin over which pale gray gray 41 tulle W was wac G draped and knotted swathing othlo the bust and both bot hips hip and aDd knees s very tightly There were knots on OD the tho shoulder on the thc hips hip and oo on one oce O e ankle the skirt being raised BO so that that a sliver silver slipper r showed sho At the other side the th gown own ended In a lon long trail of ot tulle ana one arm was wal draped with the tullo while ton to other was bare Diamonds cameos und and p pearls 81 are used to catch catch the draperies The Tho tulle tull Is really tacked to the tho by bJ the thc yard Is le seldom sewed sewell together to tc together gether ether and nd tle never c hemmed No wonder we am aro all so 60 excited In re to r regard card gard to the gowns gown on 00 the first st opera night Of Ot f course at the tho first t night tho gowns owns will be mild expert ments meats When wo appear ear at it the other hm the Metropolitan where tho the dla- dla moud mond horseshoe circle composed of ot the parterre boxes makes a 8 show abow 0 D DI LT tI t c J 4 I C c. c 1 I y a 0 r r e s the true American attitude toward the gowns will be revealed r On figure D there is Ie n II sinuous arrangement arrangement arrange arrange- ment lUent of a very erT wt wide scarf the scarf the scarf cart wo we discussed weeks ago and ago and In III figuro fig 11 uro ure A t you tea seo the lines linos of ot the much much much-dis cussed r n style For thee the debutantes who must most he demure de dt inure mure instead of ot daring no DO matter what t their natural Inclinations are there arc nrc dainty lace owns gowns trimmed with garlands garland s of ot roses much like lite the pretty frock I In 10 n Illustration B. B Other r sweet l. l simple dal dancing log Inc dr dresses are re mado mAllo of oC painted chiffons chiffon that have ha bl big pink roses through gb h run ron lore love knots knot and aDd ribbons of ot Ira by blue On others there are arc Immense purple and aDd yellow orchids and often otten there are arc b a blac L k polka dots dote arranged In pyramids g the hem bem and rising In points surrounded by the tho gay gny flowers Artificial roses will a again agata be used to decorate ball bail gowns but gowns I 1 think of ot It It be sure to W wear Ar wild grapes In is your four hair Mrs Edmund L. L Baylies has hos large larg pink roses roos circling the collars of at her opera 1 l cloak every year and they are arc also used as a Ii trimming on her ber gowns They are litO snuggled into the white c tulle wings that stand out on each of or her ber shoulders sho sits higher than any other woman D at ot the opera W When a 1 satin ft tin skirt in is slit Kilt or slashed In 8 erol places the interstices s sot of ot Jaco lane or tulle lull will be crossed b by a floral r 4 b 0 c 4 i ij j LQ i I I 1 1 1 c c 0 I 1111 r. r t c cV V n c chain tn mO made e of ot l rc hull full uti Mown blown uses roses I b beginning be- be ginning three at the top and Increasing u lug lOll in number as the slash widens toward towar d the hem lh The grapes grapey rat you yn must mut w wear r In 10 your het bot r l tb they y are historically correct bube b but bu t be sure to ask every every now nowland and then Is my mf wreath ath on straight for tor the wild lId grape 11 head If It It sets gets a 11 bit lt crooked crook will t give I c you rou a 0 rakish look loot like that of or a Bite Bac chants chante The grapes are metallic and Ic Ie shades of ot pale gold Rold red bronco and purple mingled d. d Iu In the merry roa mad lays days of France when they wore the styles we wc arenow are now adopting a sister of oC Bonaparte appear appeared ap ap- pear pearel at a ball tall with w her hair bound MUDd with with narrow Dorrow strips of oC tiger skin while huge bunches of ot gold rapes grapes stood out on each side lOe of ot her hea head She wore n a girdle of gold set with witt eo I. I Madame Q ame Tamen a alively alively I. I lively |
