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Show THE INTER-MOUNTAIN REPUBLICAN, SALT LAKE CITYUTAH, SUNDAY, OCTOBER 11, 1908. - ® Used Pink Chiffon in Startling Ways. Roses in Garlands Used to Qross Slits in Skirts and JTueked Into per Shoulder Butterflies of Tulle. tee rincess Gowns Still ip Fashion. Wild Grape-Vines Worn in the Hair. four Styles from Which to Choose. Directoire Gowns Draped with Julle. Augonat! We tulle gowns, area al} eragy the now abont and are all having the most models made on the aly Those who are will brare as well os benuteous casay them firat. Certainly "the Emp ross Josephine,' who Is Mrs. H. A. ¢ Taylor will adbere to tho Empire style. In Paris both the Americans and the Parisiana bave already worn the gowns of tulle At fin evening garden party, for example, in floated a fascinating creature {ip a silver costume of moonlight eatin, over whieh pale aTay tulle wae draped and knotted, the bust and both hips aod kuees very tightly There were knots oo the shoulder, on the bips and oa rok} one the skirt being raised so that a ellver other side Slipper showed At the ‘oak every year, nod they are also naed as a trimming on her gowns They are enuggled into the white tuile wings that Stand out on each of her sboulders (sho sits higher than any other womsn at the pera Wien a satin skirt is silt or siashed !n severn) places, the Interstices of Jace or tulle will be crossed by a fioral extreme HEN doctors disagree, alas for patient! When dressmakers dls agree, hurrah for tho customer! Tbos say we all of us who bayve apy de gree of oleverness, for when the dresemakerg disagree there is hope for any W dgare. And both big asothorities and little au thorities disagree this eeason Paquin has declared bimself In opposition to the clos iy fitting directolre model and upholds the gown a long trall of tulle, one arm was draped with the tulle toe otbec was bare Dinmonds cameos ised und pearls are to eateh the to draperies The tulle is really ‘‘ta eked" the satin by the yard, la seldom se red to gether , and nerer hemmed. No. wonder all 60 excited tn re we aro gard to the gowns on the drst opera night Of course, at the tirst Hammerstelo olgbt, Directolre gowns be miid exporttho will ersacetul Even cai) her fog of exists. worms imagines empire styl. Elizabeth White ‘and no one can a Mttle authority in either mean the word) ssys that disagreement She gives us permission, we poot of the Four Hundred, whom sbe ere fairly writhing {un our sbeath to take advantage of the disagreexowns., ment aod wear what we chooses. Now sbe fs on the lecture platform epreading the glad tidings In many eities. She gives advice authoritatively and buoyantly to all the timid Nttle dressmakers born with pious ip thelr mouths {nstend of a ailrer spoon ‘the poor lady who welghs so much tbat her heart {s beavy, too, {s now feellng more cbeerful In an empire gown, 80 koow se imagines, no one why the te 8 airth of her waist, but somebow every one does know when & women wears an empire model just how much waist there ts below: Mrs. Willle K. Vanderbdilt,. Sr., always bends over in a wanner most graceful when she enters her box at the opera. eoded in blades of the anguiar woman will be wing Ike In effect Flesh-colored tulle outlines orange and the result at first glance fairly takes one's breath awny, for the gown appears to be cut out twice as muck as it actually fs. Then I must not forget to tell you that there are heathenish embroideries, both Egyptian apd Byzantine, all of go1geous col ors, but used rather aparingly lor Instance, if you hare ing gown cut out V-shaped, the Iittl of eaty-plece at the bottom the V shoo be of gorgeous embroidery The other day I sev a primrose antin with barbaric emhbroideries of masalye gold and silver; also Gn emerald green tolls eYled tu chiffon with a coat of sparkling jet. and a coppercolored chiffon laid over satin and from the all around bust hung a frioge of ecryatals that fell to the ankles One however, on but dangere be dainty, ever Phere are sveet of ¢ white net, trimmed only wide bands of soutache braid applied graceful designs And say, did you ever hear of that wonjorful gown worr y5 Southern belle durIng the She war? poor, «0 wna awfully white terleton was her only "wear," She was to a moonlight going garden party where there was to be a dance on the When appear at the other ments, the Metropolitan, where the dia circle, of the moud horseshoe ~om posed parterre boxes, ™ kes & SLOW unsurpassed, house, and she "0 longed to look to rel you think she did? Alded by her she went out and caught basketlightning bugs, as some people them, fire-files The n int the wide ices, tarleton made of white doubled, bandfu ind la of fite-files were owed by the do mammy, fuls of buckling mwammy That night when the pretty girl danced on the lnwn, she needed no inv apoogles. nor dinmonds, for the fire-files Sashed through the tarleton aod one received so maoy glances I read about it in a book by my friend, Amelfe Rives, and she told me confideni{a!- nes below are seen, even by people without the exe that has on X-ray keenness. Lirt every time lovely Mrs. Wilife finds en excuse for that graceful stoop, adorable crea ture though she ts, Cholly eternally kaeps bis opera glasses focussed] on young Mru ly that this gown tion om ber part. I'ti have to think up my frocks. But just the files on me! was o fact. not. fabrics If Cholly proves stingy just such ways to ds of same there will be no Gre Calla also as |iiites will be worn tn the hatr and corsage bouquets It was Miss Edith Deacon wh« > started this fad In New York. Perbaps sabe knew of a historieas reasou, but this I can not flud. Every. where she goes, one sees her with three stiff callo lillies, with long, straight stems standing upright and thrust Ioto the cor sage. If ber tears should fall they would drop right into the calla HMly cups. Mrs Benjamin Guinness (she was Bridget Bulk ley, of Irejand), also wears three stiff calla lilies as a corsage bouquet yith her even{og gorrn Sbe ts one of Mra. Jobn Jacob \stor's chums, so calla I!lles are correct. Definitions. Many children ore sverything that they ing In A-Directore Evening Gown with White Chiffon Underdress Having Silver and a Plastron Heavily Embroidered with Old Blue and Green Bnghtened ver. Over the Chiffon There Are Draperies of Black Mousseline de Soie B-A Girlish Evening Frock with Skirt Having Three Lace Flouncet and Artificial Pink Roses, Similar Flowers Forming the Corsage Bouquet C--An Evening Gown, Empire in Style, of Rose-Colored Satin with with "Tocsin ting druuk ! | few style with silk tulle Paul- ine's sweet face will rise above the ‘London Sinoke"™ like a red rose that Ufts ite head above an English fog. Cholly think Paul Ine {8 lovely. too: but I'm not a Dit jealous -only of that filrty Polly de Peyster, who is coming Lome from Ireland next week Bhe has been wearing abroad-so I jeard from a friend-a gorgeoua Greek gown of flame color touched with gold. Really, if Cholly 1s ns devoted to her as le was this Spring recourse to divorce will be the only digni. fled procedure on my part. The empire-princesse models are often mis. taken for however the ankles. hke many the directolre models, which are, draped far more closely urouny of The emplre-princesse models, the. directoire gowns, are days of the Revolution, and also later during the Consulate and the Emptre pertod after Nap«leon, who was of the Consulate had arisen ip all bie lory and powe These cameos, that will be used to clas the bewildering tujhe gowns of the Hires tolre periog' this season will give ™nt ‘ised employ to cameo-cutters, who bave not praectheir art for fully tweaty years None of the younger inen ‘among the jewel! ers understand the work so the graybeards are busy For many years there was lit tle or no work for cameo cutters The directofre gowns will, of course, be the sensation of the season Tulle ond °'ffon will swathe the figure and thero Wili be few flying ends Mrs. Reginald Vanderbilt bas a stunning directolre eveo- !9& gown of Tobin's egg Burden bas black blue, a net and Grectan Iald Mrs gown over satin. Arthur of Dlack of Scott satio With flame colored draperies fying from the shoulders. It will be droll, bowever, made of a soft, thick, tustrous satin called Just drap directoire ts Che such a sown B. one tno Ulustration tay read the You details the-description. It was designed Abroad for Miss Alexandra Carlisle, wh. if some of tho girls in the Four Nundred decide to adopt the directoire styles So many of our tal) "American Beauties" are Six feet high and two feet Oat -very fat OD the floor Just picture one of thetr Played tn ‘The Mollusc." Miss Carlotta Nillgon also wears a yellow satin gown of this sort. They are severely plain with the trimmiug only on the Shoulders or above the walst. Mies Carlisle's costume was copied by a society girl, but she wears with jt a girdle of cameos clasping the body ®ippered feet emerging from a tulle gown, for they are short op one side (the frocks, |] mean) aud have a long side trail or train of tulle, as {t were-or, as it will be. 7ather We are atl terribly excited over our evening gowns for Hammeratelo opera be- below the bust and falling tn long ends to the knees. With this sbe wears cameo bracelets. The cameos were worn in France during the Directoire period that followed the wild gins on November 9, and we sball rush into town to glvye him support "Princess Alice," Mrs. Nicholas Longworth, was buy10g directoire evening gowns ot an establishment on Iifth avenue as early as mid- so crammed really know read these wits onoth- veritable something ts to to do bare with the getsmull- por two brothers {s ‘Canoihal who kill other In the Bible." ‘Anatomy Is the human bedy, which of three parts; the head, the cousists ist and the stummick The head con eich D-A Pauline Fredericks the actreas Very of her gowns will be Airectoire tn One will be of mignonette-creen satin a tunic Or overskirt that bas a long fringe. Another of "London smoke" is only slightly direectolre in lines lg "Expostulation Leaves and Grecian Key in Gold, a Long Gold Chain Circling Waist and Falling at Left Side. Rose-Colored Mousseline de Soic Drapes the Left Shoulder and Forms the Left Sleeve. rents. I think she 1s 80 shrewd, for be tween the acts etiquette dictates that one must turn one's back to the opern ‘glass battailon-just whep rothey the porters are connting the penris that top each gpike of one's t! ara. * You koow I have a crown exactly like that of Mrs. John R. Drexel: the pearls can be ubscrewed and sky-blue Persian turquoise Inserted. I just went to bed crled and cried, and stayed thero two weeks ] (the war my aunt did when she wanted a sealskin gacque; We are all so deligbt folly feminine {n our family) wnotll Cholly bought me a acrewnble tlarn. Our bouse ‘ras at sixes and sevens, and he had some cinners to give for brokers from London- those jolly chapples who give the Ameri (an women such good tips about the mar ket Instead of useless compliments. But bow I run ou! Bo, back to gowns! that besides the empire i most tell you (see the Uluatration C and read description) you 10ay wear a pure princesse modol, the cropire and princesse model combined, or the startling directotre, which is modified or immodest, acunmodified, modest morals and your figure. cording to your You bare four styles from which to choose, you know, my Why friend, Miss Betay Browonface, with whoro Cholly and I recently went shopping? All dless your bearts! ou girlies who delight In a short dancing frock fluffr at the hem and that Its closely fitting aod finagine it will be out of style! Why Betay, juat the otber day, bought the mos! bewitching princesse gown for evening that Ll ever saw. It ls embroidered tn opal paillettes with sllver flashing here and there, and from one of those little Coroeling Vanderbilt, Jr., who wears suca boleros bangs a long fringe of pure crystals. a stunning diamond ornament in the back It $s something like a princesse gown that Alfred Wagsta f wore, wheo, os of her beod, It ts a band, the ends of Mrs. which Ue just abore ber ears and in back Blanche Shoemaker, she went to her frat 6 covered with dull tvoryoo ber wavy hair, hang wistarla-shaped big dance diamond ornaments graduating in length. like spaugles; sue looked like a snow queen she e turng When ber aboulder blades to that night the uudience they can see al) these orneAnd take the case of blitheeome litde this. of deafiuitions. written by pubchildren "Stability {s taklog cure of a stable." A mosquito Is the child of black and white parents.' Monastery ‘9 the ;pince for wonstore." Laurel Directoire Costume with Skirt of White Mousseline de Soie Heavily Embroidered with Wide Tulle Draperies of Egg-Plant Color and Left Sleeve of Embroidered Tulte from Which Hangs Tassel of Rich Red or Egg-Plant Color. Garnets Are Set in Embroideries and in Ornaments to Which Tassels Are Attached. E-A Satin Gown Pale Pink in Color and Princesse-Empi re in Model: Cameo Girdle Hangs from High Waist and the Cameo Shoulder Straps Are Set with Diamonds of specimens llc school Spangles with Silor Tulle Garlanded Trimmed proof be ehsin made Oo? large fut blown mses ginning with three at the top and {necreus ing In number as the slash widens toward the hem. In your bair The grapes ron must wear correct, bit because they are historically be sure to ask every now and then "Is my on vreath atraight?"' for the wild grapt head-dress, if It gets a bit crooked, wil) give you a rmkish look like that of a Bae chante. The grapes are metallic, and Ic shades of pale gold, red bronge and purple mingled In tbe merry mad days of France, when they wore the styles we are adoptiog, a sister of Bonaparte apwith . peared at a ball with her balr bound Darrow strips of tiger skin, while huge bunches of gold grapes etood out on each eide of her head She wore a girdle of gold set with cameos. Madame Talllen, a lively lady of the long ago (you remember the Talllen toque I[ referred to recently) ence wore a gown whose diaphanous draperles were arranged like tbose on a atatic of Phidings. Now she wns one of the Mer ones : veilleuses-the wonderfal who lowed the nadvieg of the grent artists then adopted the Hving and the dress of Romans and Madame Talllen al Greeks. ways sandals wore and pever had anor stockings to darn Every one of ber toes bad its feweled ring. So now this Winter. when you see things oam ed Talllen for sale in the stores, you will know what It means, Tbe lucroyables were the womeo of the same period (dlrectoire, of course) who wore salts Ike those of the soldiers, and thelr ideas in dress are now seen lo our out-door costumes-those consisting of jacket and skirt. now true the American attitude toward the Directolre gowns will be revealed. On figure D there fs a sinnoug arrangement of a very wide senrf-the scarf discussed several weeks ago--and In dgsee reu the lines of the much-dlsDirectolre style, Por the debutantes who must he de mure Instead of daring, 50 matter what their vatural inclinations are, there are dainty lace gowns trimmed with gurlaods of roses much Ilke the pretty frock to {llustration B. Other sweet. simple dance ing dresses are wade of painted chiffons that have big pink roses through which Tun love-knots and ribbons of baby blue, On otbers there are Immense purple and yellow orchids and often there are black polka dots arranged in pyramids circilug A long wluding scarf of chiffon Will be a the bem and rising In polnts surrounded by the gay flowers poetic accessory to the evening gown. On Artiticial roses will again be nosed to some of these at ench end there {s Q mandecorate ball gowns-but, whilo I think of moth black butterfly measuring a full yard it. be eure to wear wild grapes in your from the tip of one wing to the other. hair. Mrs, Edmund L. Baylies bos large & back on somo of the gowns the corsage pink roses circling the collars of ber opera ts cut so shockloyly low that the shoulder talus the eyes and brains, !f aus. ‘The of ontalne the lungs and plece the ehist is davoted The stummick to the liver of which there are five, u, @, 1, o, bowels w and y.''--Newsbook u, and sometiines India's in js Precious Metals. It Is estimated that $1,500,000,0009 gold, and perbaps as much In allver, hiddeu awsy in the Hindu stocking. Vast quantities of the precious metals are known to be kept In the form of persona! ornaments. From time immemotfal India has been a reservolr into which the preclous metals bare flowed from al} quarters of the globe, only to disappear from atatistics. Could the idle wealth be drawa upon, the effect on the industrial and commercial life of the country. would be very great. It Is, therefore, a matter of concern to try to turn Indto'as detmnant capital to active use. It may be impossible to do It The Oriental mind views eve rything in a way incomprebensible to Westerners But if only a tithe or the conce led hoards of India were vitallzed a new sspect might be given to the condit! ons of life in EugJand's great Eastern Enipire,- Baltimore Sun RY ae ae AG An Old Story. "She tells me that thy irs is a Platonte love. What does that mean, hubby 7" Meana that we'll bave to diz up for a wedding present in about two mopt " Loulsville a Courler Journa). A Subtle Hint. "Jimmie, your face is if morning," again this exclaimed he dirty the tencher, r. « "Wh would you say {f 7 came to school ey = day with a dirty face? "Hub " aon Mamie; "rq be too perlit e to eBay thing." -The Circle, any- |