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T rT T C o C AK LIB 5 5 1 ZAG I First Comes the Utility Coat Coat Coat- The Coat The Influence of the Sheath i Skirt Suit Skirt Suit Coats That Be Worn May as Separate V Sashes The Feature Feature The Dernier Cri Wraps Wraps Sashes a Since tho the fashion of oC annual autumn touring caino carno Into vogue tailors nave have been puzzling their brains In Jn the ef- ef tort to design a coat for or women which would look 1001 smart and trim and yet be sufficiently room roomy to promise comfort and could bo bi developed In some somo material mater mater- material ial Jal which would not readily show tho wear and tear of ot travel tra Apparently the they have havo finally come to tho conclusion conclusion conclusion sion that tho the checked and striped coarse serges and heavy English mo- mo alra and are arc tho best orall of or all fabrics for Cor the purpose and It Is evident that their customers agree with them Judging from the number oC of orders makers custom are turning out and ready made garments the tho shops are arc soiling BOllinI The They aro are made malle In a variety of or modes which do not differ greatly save savo In minor details as there seems to be a general predilection for the plain double breasted garment hangIng hanging hang- hang Ing straight ht from Crom throat to hem fin fin- oed with deep cuffs cures as well as a deep collar which ma may be turned up or down own as the tate state oC of weather dic- dic tates tate The Ut Utility lilt Coat Chat Undoubtedly the number of ot women who must mal make e one long coat answer for around all time day-time service is greatly in the majority and to such is la addres sed sod the statement that t In selecting selecting select select- In ing such a garment It will be he better bettor betterto to secure a a. material not too heavy leav for Cor ordinary nn autumn and spring use relying re- re lying upon UI extra wraps for additional warmth In winter Any n of oC the tho medium n wel weight eight ht worsted supposing always alwa's that thc they arc are clo close c a and ami firm of or weave wea aro arc advised but hut p special attention should sh show w a prop preponderance of of white or t gray rather rat nor man unan daric brown Drown slue blue or orreen green reen as all tho the dust seems to settle on weaves weaves In those colors colora as though with n firm determination to cling in the 1 proverbially brotherly manner whereas where- where S1 ns as white gray ray and tan simply lImply b become leomo a bit more dull but never look look actually rusty I ngIt While the double breasted coat cont model model mod mod- el undoubtedly leads In tho the lino IIno o or of severely tailored utility wraps no not every ery woman finds tl to her liking likinS' either Ith r be because they seem to add ad to too much uch to her apparent size or because e ethey they are arc too loo warm in moderate pr er However this may be c certain It is that there are aro to be found any number of long wraps raps which combine combino tho the ad- ad of the double breasted box coat coal with the tho semi fitting fitting re redingote which defines dennes tho the figure uro to some somo extent and atthe the same time la Is so loose that it mayy may may-bo be drawn on easily This model necessarily demands a sharp slope In Inthe Inthe inthe the side forms which sometimes start at mt tho the waist line IIno Instead of beneath the tho arms That there may bo be no ex ex- ex tra ten fullness across the tho bust darts are arc r set Met ct into the tho tops of or tho the front forms torms which close dose with largo large buttons ex extending ox- ox tending from the throat to Just below the hips Various Sleeve c Type Having IIa made the statement that all coat sleeves cs are arc lon long one might go o on oa indefinitely in re regard g ard to their differences differ differ- for this r reason ason thoro thero aro arc seen sleeves of ot almost almo t as many types as coats to fit them Into The safest model for the tho round all coat because It never actually goes out of ot fashion Is the conventional type mado made precisely In like o that worn by men meD and now put Into tho the eyes arms In the tho same sarno manner manner manner man man- ner without the tho slightest fullness at atthe atthe the tho top and fitting smoothly over tho the shoulder This Is the sleeve of ot the box coat which Is developed In the heavier and more moro cumbersome sort of or mater materials lnla such auch as chinchilla and anti Irish frIeze Many garments built on the same samo model In n regard to general details have havo sleeves of or a widely whIch different char char- char char- acter Some Somo of them are arc exceedingly wide vide throughout hout their length and deeply platted plaited Into tho the top of or the well Into the tho cuffs eye arms as 88 as others are aro adapted to Oriental arms- arms eyes ees or cut In one with the garment taus thus hus bringing bringing- into prominence too toe long ong sloping shoulder of or the kimono type The Sleeve The term l kangaroo roo Is Io not especially especially espe espe- suggestive ug ot of beauty In sleeves and yet ot tho the style stylo to which tho the namo nama Is given IB le a n most graceful l' one ono and certain to bo bi much in use for coats of ofa a a. certain class or rather rathor two classes for It Is seen in the tho hoes o ot OL evening coat coats coatH as as well as as toos mado made mado up of or coarser courser materials and anti designed for motoring and trav rather than for tOl general street service Tho The feature of or the tho kangaroo Is tho the fullness which is afforded underneath tho the arms where It Is sot into tho the oyo with deep plaits while whilo at tho the top an and sides Hides It tits fits smoothly and clings cling s to the tho arm from shoulder to wrist where It ItIs ItIs itis Is gathered Into a band beneath a deep deepcut cuff cut the plaits at tho un er side being stitched down flatly from elbow to wrist wrist- Sometimes this Is so o cut that at nt tho the top it Jl la Is In otto ono with tho the garment the fullness be beneath Death tho the arms being being- let In by means of or a n. little goro gore of Side Sides Since tho the shoats sheath skirts have hav had so marked an effect upon outer garments h by making the majority of or them less voluminous slashed sides Ides arc aro more mOlo than ever an advantage antage in tho the case of long coats many of which are arc made so 80 narrow narrow nar nar- row that to walk In them comfortably would be an impossibility were It not for fot the openings which start either Ither Just below tho waist or tho hip line A m majority of oC th the tho have ha the theto o or open sides but they ar an almost I gereral general gen ger- eral r c feature of tY the tho scant c tt box coats such as are aro Intended for general utility wear ear In the tho slashed title side models is seen a coat which 1 is destined to play an important important im im- role in the winter wardrobe of or orthe the women who must literally mal make o ono one wrap do the work of two Dressy mil Ever Every year year ear broadcloth tailored suits gain aln additional popularity especially with Ith the tho woman who appreciates the advantage of having one ono really won made matlo street costume which may correctly cor- cor be worn morning and afternoon and nd even for cert certain ln even evening In functions lora Fora or A number of seasons past she has had lad to content herself with tho box or r military coat and the plaited platted or gored walking skirt but this year Dame amo Fashion has proved a veritable fair Ury godmother gOd In that she has provided pro- pro vl vided ell a type of ot broadcloth costume which while modestly for morning morning- use Is yet sufficiently dressy dres- dres sy y for an afternoon r reception This Is s tho broadcloth suit of or three pieces pieces pieces- a a. short and anel a trained skirt and a coat which ma may be made mado to extend to Just above bove the knees to a trifle below bolow them or r almost to the tho skirts skirt's hem The Tho advantage advantage ad advantage ad- ad vantage of ot this this' mode Is that such a coat oat may bo be correctly worn with a skirt of or another color providing that It t harmonizes or with the tho satin gowns which every woman who can enn 1 possibly o acquire ono one will include In her winter outfit I Umpire Empire or I Tho The dressy y cloth coat whether or not designed to accompany a special skirt Is e In an any of or the popular types types Empire or Continental Continental and and mil may bo ho trimmed In man many different ways On some of them are aro placed black or matching satin bands elaborately sou sou- braided tache-braided on others fanc fancy and sou sou- tache lache l hr braids l aro are employed together of at separately r I and again ere there are ru broad brond and narrow bands of or wool lace laro dyed to precisely match the tho tono tone of or ortho tho the material nail and Olives Olin and anti olives of or extreme sizo are aro employed on all of or tho the more elaborately elaborately trimmed separate coats the olives es being generally of hea heavy silk cording or of or crotchet work worle and In matching hues with tho the other trimmings while whilo tho the are arc similarly treated or oror of or metal jew Jewel l set These ornaments are arc placed at tho terminus of the thc shortened shortened short short- ened waist line used as os front fastenings fastenings fasten fasten- In ings s set on tho the collar and cuffs cutes and anti pockets pockets pockets-If If thero there are arc pockets and pockets and furnish furnish furnish fur fur- nish tho the centers for the big rosette- rosette heading sashes and Necktie Not o er every separate coat has a a. snail although the tho majority of or the dressy dress models carr carry them Such accessories are of or satin precisely matching matching- the garments garment's color unless of ot black which Is frequently tho the case They are fin finIshed finIshed finished fin fin- with deep fringe e heavy or ery In silk or chenille or applications of Jet or and Invariably wel weighted for the tho ends of the tho modern sash must not fI fly recklessly about in obedience to ever every winds wind's behest Neckties Neckties Neck- Neck ties tics are on the majority of or the outer wraps now being made up and certainly certain certain- I ly add dd Immensely to the smart appearance appearance appearance appear appear- ance of or tho the simplest of ot them thc When hen hena a sash is used the precisely el matches It its coloring material and anti decorations decorations dec lec- orations otherwise It is 18 of black satin salin or taffeta embroidered with sill silk Ill or fringed with matching silk or with I gold bullion save rave In the case caso of or a coat designed ned for tor fora a 0 quite young girl when whon I some bright hue may be employed pro pro- toning with the Insets of ot he her coat collar and cuffs cuff Young Girl Coats COlt Coat Girls' Girls coats aro arc made mado up on the simpler simpler sim aim pier of oC tho the box bot models having conventional conventional conven conven- sleeves F Few w of or them Ulem are aro de do developed de- de In black and many In dark bl blue ue us there thero seems to tobo bo a tendency toward tho using of or the no neW V shades which figure so prominently among the winter suits Those include tho the deep purple of oC the tho Concord grape the dried prune pruno and the tho wild plum the tho various 3 catawba shades the re reddish browns I the the mahogany reds rods and those having ha ia a aI copper tone Those These colors como come in n I hea heavy smooth-finished smooth cloths of fin e texture and man many of or the coats developed Bevel devel from them theta are lined with whit white e I or delicately tinted satin for the tho young oun girls girl's long separate wrap Is usually th the theone ono one which she wears to dancing school over o her hor lingerie or silk frock Crock The Jhc Satin ague lIc Satin separate coats coats are among th the fashionable garments of or the hour and long ma may their vo vogue ue continue for or cor cor- has there been a material materia which has proven coven so eminently eminently tl satis satis- factory Not Not ot only aro the thc silk all qualities of oC the fabric immensely popular pop pop- ular ulal for or the smi semi-fitting length full and and anti severely so tailored coats worn during the da day as well as during the evening but the wool-back wool satins aro I largely employed because the they thoy afford so much more warmth than limn the lie liberty weights It goes without saying laying that tho wider the material the more mOlo easily easily may a coat COlt of oC this character bo be to de do developed do- do eloped from It particularly one ono having having hav hay ing sleeves cut with the tho front and back forms 0 This type typo In satin is used principally principally prin prin- for tor evening c wear and In the paler tints which ma may ho bo effectively trimmed with in dyed lace oriental embroidery applications applications applications ap ap- and Jet or gold Jold bullion hUe With IUa In Lace Ince c Ono of the most practical of or evening coats because It Is of the tho three n i q MA y j I C t of t I A AC AI I C A Aa a 1 rr f I d o Z o i t b Kr m- m mm m fifi v. v w s m t tI I tj ak A y h 1 J J I f i I J jt 4 p 1 i I jT 1 f t s n f r H 1 sS r I r rAC rs I t. t s AC 6 i r f I II I I I I I II I nw 24 J ST FT tors length and may there therefore foro the more mor e easily bo be preserved from lom soiling und under r ordinary conditions is of oC white sat satin n and six Ix Inch width heavy lace bands It is le actually a single single breasted breasted bo bocoat box hox x coat bordered nil all around with the lace laco from beneath which the tho satin is cu cut cutaway t awa away and having other othor broad brond bands band s crossing tho the shoulders from hem t them to o hem extending down the straight wide e sleeve from shoulder to wrist and bordering bordering bordering bor bor- dering it similarly to tho the body of tt the e garment armont Inside Is tacked a a. liberty 3 satin lining ma be bo taken ou out t when it is necessary to substitute another another an- an another an an- other one of or quilted silk thus making the garment ment possible for tor year round service v rh The Last Chirp Front From Purls The dernier crl cri which elicited a n gasp of |
