Show S ROI f A r r fy J S J. J p J r rt t r r j oI r f N I 2 c r. r J iti it p Q 5 i JA 1 i j ji I i fi r l lY Y fI Li r wr Y Y r l lr Jf I f y nv 4 1 1 1 I I r i T TP n y r I P 1 f r 13 f i r 1 g r r rf 1 t t 1 f R q ii r LR w S Q Y I I J f t f t r fp 4 r l ti 4 l. l rr I 1 JI Y rr f bibs t 7 r Air r I f i c cr 1 A r t j jI I M I L I x k x 1 I A f If I. I T T r T t r h I of i tt r. r i 4 h hr i p 1 I 1 r p. p t r rat i r 11 Yi r r f lt r j Z f r L x 7 J i t 45 v fr oJ f 1 Y d f t J. J r W rr hf 1 y h 1 i I j r 1 Y vr t i t 1 t i t r r 1 alA f V J. J rat 1 r v. v J Jf Jr t A l reef m t 1 r r f r. r Y t r fr n r r JF 1 1 S 1 r B CB AJaJ z J 5 r MiJ i i. i r 5 r f r 4 14 1 t I I A i t J i f t Elaborate Styles in Plaids modes Tailor Tailor-r Tailor macies Plaids ades-Plaids Plaids A Are re in m Extreme Vogue Vogue Skirts Skirts Decidedly Longer More Longer More Materials I t. t of Every Kind Required t Thc They have arrived and favored patrons are arc being cautiously cautious shown ho Into the prig j ute ato saloon of well known houses to the models an and designs that are arc to lead the procession of or novelties In the Easter parade Those charming outdoor costumes that tho the best makers of France ani and Vienna Vienna- t i for this thus latter city Is far find and away the 11 best tailor made town in ill 1 Europe taking the tallor tailor made made costume In its HI pristine one that demands a faultless til Ht and a cut those cut those e charmIn charmIng charm- charm I In lag Ing designs ns have e been repented repeated for the best tra trade e of or Tind arc are expected to lu matte make lt their h debut somewhere about j i Easter tune time Right after the C Christmas holidays were C flocked tc to I over 11 dc dI and buyers buyers myel's alike Paris and to the Southern winter n resorts to pick pid up Ideas wherewith to construct j I novel no gowns owns for the spring trade on this tide of the Atlantic Xo No that they were on piratical deeds Intent Y Very r tar far from CrolO It It t. t Their Theil v visits were first made mad to the tho known best houses house where re models were freely displayed for their hell Inspection and ancI I the American buyer does docs I not hesitate to pay a big price for a copy of oC any ony model that pleases leases his taste or for tor which hp he Imagines Imagines that there will be he n goodly 00 d acceptance acceptance ac nc- among people of ot taste and 01 means ea os Indeed more than one olle of the leading houses hO In Paris Parts owe their supremacy to today today today to- to day to the American buyer lie Ile It Is who II does docs not hesitate when he nn finds s a n good model to advertise d Its originator freely s' s Truth to tell one of or the leading tailors in tn Paris whose models fetch a high price higher in fact tact that many of or his competitors com com- put put In some fame years ears In New ew York tit lit his hilS tra trade e where when he established hi his present prex- prex ent reputation rc made many friends for himself nm lJ the few tew manufacturers of that day day It It Is some gome ten Len or a a. dozen who the men and they are UTe years ago recognize his hiM cleverness s to today ay to such ex extent ex- ex tent that tile they arc are willing to pa pay him 00 or J Co for I a L good model nn and then i pay only GO 60 0 per cent duty upon that tame same for tor the privilege 1 of oC bringing It home to bo ho copied But to get to the salient features of or those thoe new mo models is the point V YI Visits not I r on only I to Paris but to Monte the Pau and even across Nice Biarritz Hz frontlet frontier to Spanish Sao San Sebastian ha have hav been made madl in search of novelties and th the fruits of ot tho those c excursions are now being American purchasers even e spread before before the B seasons at those thoc different nt re rel resorts resorts re- re I l sorts have closed For l For or one ono thing one cannot eSC escape the This Is a fad fall or a a. l- l o vogue e of plaids wa ono one choo chooses es to view f lon Ion whichever whichever way It that It-that that has been extremely slow In tn mining min gain gainIng aln- aln III ground The Thc little checks cau caught ht on ort Ing like wildfire but th the larger patterned Top To Tobo In acceptance r plaids were lon long bo 8 moc p called so-called shadow shallow plaids of or a year ago aJo did much mucks to Injure th the vogue of but hut higher the they class ass soon soon and una nand n r ran rim nt more or tic e tr artistic brief c race e un and s. s forgotten n n. arc now well nigh In panamas some soft I woolen weaves cs and either French serg serge serges t melanges of or coloring charming th there are rc I from that thal cannot fall tall to win whit approval the C raw W silk the most fastidious In silk even early earl it Is rather eato weaves ca too-although too delightful same me t of those the those the s talk to present themselves themselves- larger r er combinations an defined 11 with ann and d open squares are arc more snore favored than n crossbars crossbar bar of color cros of color that the accepted accepted accepted ac ac- ac- ac the lar large e blocks clan clem tartans present f lIt season checks that the tha new The fw before been noticed 1 hero 1 lJ before fore hut but gents hove have tendency to to cu- cu the later display shows show's a und anil hou l lI of or I large lars the size those I much has al already ady been sai said of or them much remains still to be said ald The present present present pres pres- ent fad for tor trimmings s. s which is only bythe by byth bythe th the way beginning beginnIng- to a assert serL e clever er use of or tho those lc plaids and checks Plain materials are piped with plaids an and 1 I checks cravats folds Colds and false tallie tucks arc are fashioned of them an and I already on ono one sees an occasional French i frock In which the bodice and d the upi upper cr I half haIr of th the skirt are arc of or plaid while th thy the lower half hair and the coat are of or some I pl plain colored cloth This Thilo mixture of the two makes for a 0 charming effect when well Veil handled but It is IN likely to prove a pitfall for tor the unwary woman who mu must t entrust t the making of at her clothes clothe to an Inexperienced dressmaker In stripe the variety Is endless but it must be noted that hat It Is the small hairlines hairlines hairlines hair hair- lines placed close together er that the tho best maker employ Just now One Oce point forthe for tor forthe I the thc woman woma who l la is inclined Is the fact that striped d materials take II less trimming Ining titan than almost any others othen since the material offers offer so many ideas In Itself Jutt Juet some ome piping of or plain material material ma ma- a reversal of or the the to position of or the stripe 01 or or-a or a fragment of bt br braid ld Id 0 or lace laco i is all th t Is required to the the trimming of a mo most most t modish model What known abroad as translation renders the ments menu menu-a. literal word as' as asa Sa S' S a a framing framing are are applied on the edges edge 6 of df oats coats o ts and ml skirts I It Il is really a aHat Hut Hat place piece of of or the material cut cul to sh m am and nd finished at the top In as liS fanciful al alman a Il manner manner manner man man- ner na ati as t the c design win wilt allow Since Inthe in inthe inthe the new modes the hem of or both trap Wrap and ami skirt represent sent the greatest t widths re re- IJ If It will lu hl seen sien what a n field for elaboration tills little I idea presents Scalloped battlemented waved and fluted folds are to lo bo ho H seen neon NJ at those points and braids an and s play a u. very important important im im- im- im part J In the scheme mc of s. s And speaking of those little wraps wraps brings to mind that even ven such lions of the bolero micro as are an- ar made mado use ot of all nU display dIsplay- the UHf tendency to the capo cape sleeve u that'll t I so much favored Cot almost everything V nJ nowadays ulay Vr Wraps of the cape order too arc are not scarce but anything I more mor unlike the time old cape at as n we re remember remember re- re member It cannot well be he conceived Rather are those novel little shoulder coverings coverings cov cov- s fashioned ta Ul upon on the lines of I cov-I the 1 or the as they used to be called and by which names their revivals revival ar am are known to the of I today The of or those Is n Un ng wraps quite I an art In HI Itself lr There Is usually A R white satin lining over o which a transparent printed d' d dorga orga organdie dle or batiste baUste linin lining or 01 even lIO a painted chiffon one all edged with lace IRce Is laid Th There re are no sleeves with I those tose little little wraps so that the laying laying- In inor of or th the lingerie lining aa as thc they arc are calUd Is lIS an C ca easy 1 y task tn k and aDd a at fete tf stitches retain It In to place until unU It In is removed re re- removed moved for a n. necessary visit t to cleaner or laundress according to Its genre ente Narrow warrOw war Nar Rr- Rr row lace is rapidly sue su succeeding the Valenciennes for this p purpose and th the Imitation laces lacea are arc making malting a vigorous vig- vig orous bid hId for recognition in this gals connection tion Those clever r girls who are wont to make makel U l I do the work of 2 I with the friendly aid Rid oC or the tho bargain counters must needs nee 1 be he reminded that all aU of the new designs cut rut into both cloth and trimmings In tn what seems nis a t a sinful way wRy wore wore not the allurements of or the finished garment garment garment gar gar- ment sufficient to overcome an any possible scruples an as to extravagance Where formerly for for- formerly or- or merl merly a n yard six length of or t inch 08 broad broadcloth cloth was way ample for a little street frock now cl eight ht must be 00 pur purchased ha a and even eveni i 1 nine U if tho the goods bo be of oC the more usual A U TP t t 4 r 5 f DYr i 11 4 M t r. r r M v l Y fJ V ff fh 2 Wt W- W dik 1 t 1 Y I. 7 r t 0 iiI f t. t f fY r f w r J A i A j r V ip 1 It r A t p Ct or OP 2 DI Tl Gt yard half variety Where l there re bj is no hap Dap ani and no up and down to the thle pa pattern ten a IC lesser length II th may suffice but Jut the fact tact that all of the new gowns lI de demand de- de mand inand more material must be Ie be emphatIcally emphatIcally emphatically declared right at tho tl ho start and aud trimmings must bo ho of ot an equal generousness generous generous- ness nes's to correspond Pa Parisian Typo of Or Gown Gnu The accepted type j of walking skirt Isan is ia iaan isan an inch or two longer than that which prevails on this thin tide do of the water and In Is likely to be more trimmed than we deem essential for tor such purpose The pretty one shown In a d deep p. p prune broadcloth relies upon folds rolda of oJ stitched black satin for ll Its trimming scheme with a dainty embroidery in hm old blues blum and aid violets violet upon lh the white c collar The little wrap shows the favored cape sleeve att and 1 a 1000 bo bo- like lero affair with inserted pleats pleat below the bust line outlined with braid trimmings trim trim- S at the thc top The skirt Is adjusted adjusted ad aJ- with close knife pleats ats over the hips and then lift left to hang free an and smooth to the feet teet Two graduated b box x pleats fill on the front gore four foul rows of oC Stitch 9 black satin head the hem Calling Co Costume in l idols The tremendous v vague vogue gUC that IK Is accorded I to plaids has extended to even the finest heI sheerest and most exp expensive classes of I goods good Witness the th dainty silk aclU voile of or ort the picture where a shade of t brown cross bars the cr creamy amy white while surface Bur sur- face fac and brown lace Is deftly employed employed i ocd to lighten the effect The rhe deep yoke is In creamy lace lae with little knots of or chestnut brown silk link a The gown go Is fashioned somewhat u uon on princess lines the lace Ince crossing on the bust and und carried down the sides ld on the skirt with very smart mart re results Hs The sleeve lee Is 15 a very cry clover adaptation of ot the tho kimono Is Ie one o of the lending leading lend ing features tORtures of or models but buL so o well 11 handled It ItIs itis Is 18 in this instance that the bulk bulky a ap appearance that It all too often presents is Is 1 lacking The gown own fastens In the back and th the thi in la quite an abbreviated one ont although the hem item of ot the skirt Ue lies Ues lieson on th the Hoar floor for an Inch or so 80 In front anu an still more on the sided f |