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Show Hjj 70 Vacational Returns . BBB i V New York, August 31. V ' The first crisp days of September H find our avenue taking a new spright-H, spright-H, '3 liness, not 'that it is over particularly H ' dull or deserted, but there is a differ-H differ-H ent spirit. Summer visitors have B gone their various ways, and New B t Yorkers have returned, ready to take B up city life again with its endless B, activities. The shops are showing k:. the fall and winter, fashions; the m dressmaking establishments have lost B i their lazy calm, and delivery wagons B , are loading up and starting off on B trips from shop to home with creaks crea-ks (l tions of furrier, tailor, modiste and shoemaker. Soft, fluffy things do very well for iwarni days; one relaxes and is cool, happy, and delightfully feminine. But with the first days of fall, the tailored tail-ored dress, or suit Is doomed with a feeling that is almost akin to relief; American women, especially, find the tailored suit or dress becoming and satisfying. There is a trimness of line and a feeling of being well dress-H dress-H I ed that lends her added dignity. H Strong rivals to the coat and skirt !H I are the Princess frocks of serge, gab- B ' ardine or whipcord; serge leads. While trim and straight, these do not follow exactly the lines of the Prin-(cess Prin-(cess of some seasons back; they are usually belted, sometimes panelled I and yoked. Belts play an important Hi part this season. Few costumes but Hf show them; on the Princess they are Hu- often merely half belts, that Is, they H? extend from side front to side back, Hjl separated by a panel at front and Hr H back. This flat, smooth appearance HjV : in front and back is one of the new H l , notions this season; all pleats and H S gathers are confined over the hips. III HI , Smart Suit Lines. Bal'l Many of the tailored coat suits have belts' of patent or shiny motor leather. These are often ornamented' harmoniously with applique designs of colored suede; the soft, dull harmony har-mony of the suede makes effective contrast and lends a distinctive touch to the suit. One sees, also, belts of the same material as suit or dress, piped sometimes with suede, patent leather, or a vivid color; the effect is smart and attractive. Buttons, too, lend their aid in bringing In the bright touch of contrast that is required re-quired this season in our smart dark costumes. TRAUMA (--OgL MoCali. A Panel Princess. There are some wonderfully attractive attrac-tive buttons of galaith, mother of pearl rimmed with color, bright green, blue or rose, and numberless other novelties in form and coloring. On an imported suit of tweed1 displayed dis-played recently in one of our smart shops, I noticed Borne extremely smart buttons of woven leather, with loops of leath for the shanks; they blended beautifully with the dark brown mixture of the tweed and were really the chief attraction of the suit. These, however, are decided novelties and probably cannot be purchased separately as yet. Colored buttons are used sparingly; one or two at the closing of coat or blouse, or one or two on the girdle are sufficient. suf-ficient. The open throat for general wnr Is still a favorite and will probably hold its own until well into the winter. win-ter. High collars, however, are being be-ing advocated by many of the leading lead-ing dressmakers; not the perfectly straight choker or stock of a few years back, necessarily, although these are smart and 'becoming to many, but a collar closed at the top and open to below the curve of the throat. These are called "A" collars and are far more youthful and becoming becom-ing to most than the old time high collar. Many women prefer the high collar for street wear, with tailored suit and hat, and even if it does not become universal, it will share favor with the low, open collar during the winter season. One of the innovations of the season sea-son is the colored blouse or separate waist with the tailored suit. This fad is probably the outcome of the little chemisettes of pink and blue that we have been wearing with the taffeta frock and serge dress. I saw a particularly attractive combination at one of the tea rooms the other afternoon; af-ternoon; it was a blouse of pale rose colored crepe de Chine, a shade between be-tween coral and old rose, and was worn with a dark blue serge suit. This blouse was made with tucks at the shoulders to give fulness over the bust and was trimmed down the front with a graduated frill of the crepe; the blouse closed with round nickel buttons. Around the high dhoKer collar col-lar was twisted a piece of black satin ribbon, above which, reaching almost to the chin, showed the points of a stiff white under collar. Another suit of beigo colored serge ihad a blouse of creamty yellow crepe embroidered with old rose silk. This fad of the contrasting blouse is practical and becoming and should appeal to many. |